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WHAT?! - No Mini-14 Sub-forum here? . . .

hueyville

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Well, I dug the old girl out. Nothing rattly on her.
Can't remember all the upgrades I did back before the internet. I do remember being on a RTTY gun bulletin board with a 110 baud telephone modem. Boy, those were the days.
What I do remember.
1. Remove 7/8 from barrel and re-crown.
2. Add Choate M14 type muzzle device with sight.
3. Add Techsight real sight.
4. Add pad to stock to add to length of pull.
5. Add composite ventilated hand guard.
Some of us still lurk on usenet and not for kiddy porn. Lots of old school hackers, bikers, hot rodders and firearms buffs like usenet because the millenials that have never used a Tandy computer or remember when a 486 machine with 487 math coprossesor upgrade was a blazing fast machine can only use discussion groups. Knowing over 90% of newsgroups are porn or spam men's 10% have old school or the brighter youngsters contributing.

Places that begin with rec.motorcycles.insert next director have the guys who remember when panheads were new, like alt.2600 and it's spin offs, if do not have a good hardware firewall will be hacked soon as enter their world. I can remember in the 1970's to find yourself swapping ideas with the Woz or Kevin Mitnick on computer and hacker groups because so few people could link a Tandy to a modem and access the usenet community just getting in gave one a certain amount 9f credibility.

Had I majored in computer science (minor) instead of dual major literature/engineering til dropping out and stayed in the game with those boys would have a prison sentence that segwayed into a multimillion/billion dollar tech company when went straight. Still have my "Free Kevin" t shirt and bumper stickers... What a strange world it was back in the daysame of 5 1/4" floppy drives, Basic, Fortran, Pascal and Cobol. Like Latin, dead languages that led to this mess we call the internet.
 

Bama Steve

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Wow nice job!

I'm inspired to get my mini out of the safe and see what it can do. Then see if it can be improved. Maybe over the winter.
Do it, man.

I'm gonna lighten the trigger a bit more and put a scope on it and see what else I can discover about it . . .

Got an adjustable-on-the-fly gas block in-bound next week.

I'll report on my findings later . . .

:)
 

W.E.G.

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Be sure to add a A-Team van to your kit for this project.

Although a bit much investment for my situation.

Someone abandoned the costume chaps and the 30-30 at my last rave. A fella could do worse I suppose.
 

Bama Steve

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Be sure to add a A-Team van to your kit for this project.

Although a bit much investment for my situation.

Someone abandoned the costume chaps and the 30-30 at my last rave. A fella could do worse I suppose.
I blushed at your thread and moved my 30-30 to the back of the safe . . .

:rofl:

Thanks, Man.
 

Bama Steve

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Scoped and ready for further accuracy testing . . .

So I clipped one (1) more coil from the dis-connector spring and now have a ~ 3.5 lb trigger (boy, that feels light).

Factory rail mounted, and a Leopold HOG 1~4X scope mounted on low rings and letting it sit for a day or two to let the thread locker settle.

Midway stock-saddle/cheek-riser installed and adjusted as well - let that stretching of fabric settle too.





More later . . .
 

Randall

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So I clipped one (1) more coil from the dis-connector spring and now have a ~ 3.5 lb trigger (boy, that feels light).

Factory rail mounted, and a Leopold HOG 1~4X scope mounted on low rings and letting it sit for a day or two to let the thread locker settle.

Midway stock-saddle/cheek-riser installed and adjusted as well - let that stretching of fabric settle too.





More later . . .
Just got back into the U.S. after a vacation with my wife, and I see things are progressing nicely. 3 1/2 lbs? Dang dude...Nice job. I'm still going to encourage you to add an over travel stop on that thing. It'll improve the feel. Looking forward to future post
 

Bama Steve

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Just got back into the U.S. after a vacation with my wife, and I see things are progressing nicely. 3 1/2 lbs? Dang dude...Nice job. I'm still going to encourage you to add an over travel stop on that thing. It'll improve the feel. Looking forward to future post
Glad you guys are back and well, Randall.

Been reading up about Over-Travel-Stops on triggers and I find it to be a contentious subject.

I look forward to your thoughts here in this space.

:smile:

Steve.
 

Randall

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My trigger was like yours when I started. It was so bad with no aftermarket trigger available, and the video was easy to follow, I gave it a shot. It worked out pretty well for me. YMMV

The work I did reduced take up considerably, produced a clean break at 4 lbs., and reduced the over travel quite a bit while still giving enough room for the trigger reset to occur. As sloppy as that trigger was when I started, it made a huge difference in the overall feel.

Most aftermarket "drop in" trigger groups (Timney, Rifle Basix, CMG, etc.) control over travel as well. I like that clean crisp start and stop in a trigger.

All that said, I can't guarantee adding an overtravel screw will make you shoot your rifle any better than you currently do. If you find your trigger acceptable as is, don't let me persuade you. Just enjoy it brother.
:beer:
 

Bama Steve

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My trigger was like yours when I started. It was so bad with no aftermarket trigger available, and the video was easy to follow, I gave it a shot. It worked out pretty well for me. YMMV

The work I did reduced take up considerably, produced a clean break at 4 lbs., and reduced the over travel quite a bit while still giving enough room for the trigger reset to occur. As sloppy as that trigger was when I started, it made a huge difference in the overall feel.

Most aftermarket "drop in" trigger groups (Timney, Rifle Basix, CMG, etc.) control over travel as well. I like that clean crisp start and stop in a trigger.

All that said, I can't guarantee adding an overtravel screw will make you shoot your rifle any better than you currently do. If you find your trigger acceptable as is, don't let me persuade you. Just enjoy it brother.
:beer:
I do love to tinker so I doubt I will be able to keep myself from trying all that you suggest as time marches-on and I gain more experience and understanding of this new rifle acquisition.

Thanks for your thoughts, Sir.

:beer:

Steve.
 

hardheaded

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Be sure to add a A-Team van to your kit for this project.
All that shooting they did during every episode and all that was accomplished was rolling over a M38A1 and a couple gasoline fireballs

I found my 1 piece scope rail and put bedding compound in those half moon cut outs and cranked her down
Tomorrow , if the release agent worked there won't be any wiggle anymore , and still be removable

31/2 # ?
I am anxious to see if it double taps
If not I have a new goal
 

Bama Steve

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31/2 # ?
I am anxious to see if it double taps
If not I have a new goal
Concerning the trigger modifications:

ZERO/NONE/0 double taps and breaks like glass.

(I probably got lucky and got a really well fitted trigger group but the damn thing is sweet).

There is some take up and a little over-travel but there is ZERO creep in the trigger.

Very pleased with this.
 

Bama Steve

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Adjustable Gas Block:

I installed the adjustable gas block and love it!

This one specifically --> Gen4 Adjustable Gas Block: https://mini14adjustablegasblock.com/


I can shut it off and make it a bolt-gun or adjust for the load and drop the cases in a pile just off of the bench and the action is so smooth and the recoil is so soft.

Installation required me to grind/dremmel on the underside of bbl so the gas adjustment knob didn't get bound against this 584 series bbl but it works like a charm.

However, it does have slightly different fitment and introduces almost imperceptible stock-play so I have made and installed some shims for the upper hand-guard and lower stock fitment which were easily done and I will see how that works later this week.

I got some vertical stringing today as a result of the above ^ and a few lateral wild shots with the 4X scope mounted but I do think I have resolved those issues now.

At least it is staying near the bullseye using both 55 and 62 gr milspec ammo.

More later . . .

:biggrin:
 

hueyville

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Bama Steve, a little over travel is better than too little. Seen way too many people take out so much travel their trigger hits the stop before firing pin lights the primer. This causes the rifle to twitch before bullet leaves the bore. I was guilty for a few years of this then an old timer who has taught me a lot (in his 90's and still shooting 1/2 MOA at 100 yards with home tuned factory built 22 Hornets.

He started backing up my over travel screws till bolt was at least unlocking before trigger hit the stop. My groups began to shrink with the addition of a tad more travel. I was totally proper finger position, straight rearward pull, proper breathing but if trigger hit stop before lock time had dropped the hammer I was introducing a tad of twitch into the rifle when bullet may have not cleared the crown or just after and moving even when bullet is an inch out then muzzle blast can steer rear of bullet inconsistently.

I still put trigger stops in my AR builds, turn bolts and some of my Minis but not shotguns, FN FAL's and other 2 MOA battle rifles unless it's a design like M1a where sub MOA accuracy is not overly difficult to achieve. When build an AR (varmint shooters and paper punchers) usually find myself adding slack to over travel screw at least twice before Locktite it in place.

Can feel if trigger hits it before hammer hits firing pin on my 1.5 to 2.25 pound AR triggers. Have two AR 10's in 6XC for 1,000 to 1,200 round paper shooting with 18 ounce triggers and know a few who have tuned their Across Course, Long Range autos down under a pound but have to be very careful and be consistent or they will double. Let average shooter use a 1.5 to 2.0 pound semiautomatic rifle trigger and they can't do it without doubles.

Before cut too many coils out of spring have a spare in stock in case go too far and don't want to wait on a new one to ship. When I purposely start to square, hone, tune and polish a Jard 2 pound trigger usually pull two as go too far on either the sear, hammer notch or disconnecter and have to grab another to slowly work into the build.
 

Bama Steve

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Thanks, Huey!

I am happy with the trigger right now and even after clipping disconnector spring coils and achieving ~ 3.5 lb pull and test firing with 55 and 62 gr ball ammo I have had no issues with doubling at all.
I do wish it had less take-up but can live with it for now however, if you have an instructional source for me concerning these suggested mods to the mini-14 trigger group, I am all ears.

As I have discovered in the past while trying to accurize the FAL rifle that anywhere you add stability or mass/increase inertia the more that reduced force will show up somewhere else on the rifle when fired.

It is a balancing act.

I have the action and bbl very tightly shimmed at the gas-block and both front and rear receiver lugs and squared/leveled the receiver-base to the stock.

Any further stringing of shots is probably all the flex forces showing up in the end of the bbl forward of the gas block at this point.

If so, I will install the gas adjustable SOCOM length harmonic bbl stabilizer from here --> https://accuracystore.com/#!/Mini-1...ith-580-thru-600/p/74967197/category=19853331

:beer:
 

hueyville

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And remember you can drop trigger pack out and use a staple to LEGALLY turn a Mini 14 into a binary fire rifle. BATFE has ruled the staple mod legal and just remove staple when want to go back to standard single shot mode. Sometimes a man just has to burn ammo wholesale....

Watched a 30 minute uTube video on how important follow through is on trigger pull done by a former Army Scout Sniper now running a firearms training facility.
 

Bama Steve

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I am really hating this rifle right now; Even after all the forgoing efforts.

Everything about the rifle [at this point] is wonderful other than the fact that that it is inconsistent concerning its accuracy/POI from one day to the next.

It shoots really good cold for about 3 or 4 shots and then climbs high-right after that and the spread is much worse with 62 gr bullets than 55's.

It acts just like the FAL's I have and everyone else's who has them.

SO, I ordered the SOCOM gas adjustable strut and will update this thread later once I have wrung-out it's possibilities.

This thing will either shoot reliably into under 2 MOA or I will cut it into little pieces like gravel and sprinkle it's shredded carcass upon my property . . . like all that steel cased ammo from so many years ago that small children close to the ground find so fascinating like discovering the bones of dinosaurs here in my driveway . . .

:biggrin:
 

hardheaded

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Well,
For the last week I have been on a outage until yesterday when I laid off all my little hoodlums
Now that I got my life back from the clutches of the power company I found my flash suppressor box from accuracy Ststems has arrived at my house

Just the box , thanks USPS

,I can't wait to jump through these insurance hoops

Bama,
Is the front barrel band draw pressure as critical as it is on the mini's big brother ?
I had a M14 build that heat walked until I increased the draw pressure to 4 #
Ps
I have some older Colt ARs that won't group the XM855s as tight as it will with M193s .

Easy on the shreddage tendencies
I read on another forum that the minis won't group FMJ ball ammo at all
If you want to shred something let me come over and we can shred my century cetme together
Should be fun
 
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