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WHAT?! - No Mini-14 Sub-forum here? . . .

Jarhead504

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Its very easy to make a mini into the same 2.5" gun a 'good' fal is capable of being.
Brother yovinny: A real question for you:

WHERE can I find out HOW to make a Mini-14 a "2.5" gun", especially the part whereby "its very easy". I would truly appreciate any help with this as I am still the owner of (3) stock Mini's. I have considered getting rid of them more than once but my oldest kid insists we keep them and I was thinking they would be useful to my daughters.

Scoping them will be my next series of questions, but for now, I would just like to make them more accurate than they are reputed to be.

Respectfully,

Jarhead
 

yovinny

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Brother yovinny: A real question for you:

WHERE can I find out HOW to make a Mini-14 a "2.5" gun", especially the part whereby "its very easy". I would truly appreciate any help with this as I am still the owner of (3) stock Mini's. I have considered getting rid of them more than once but my oldest kid insists we keep them and I was thinking they would be useful to my daughters.

Scoping them will be my next series of questions, but for now, I would just like to make them more accurate than they are reputed to be.

Respectfully,

Jarhead

IIRC, Mine was as easy as bedding the stock, shortening and crowning the barrel, remounting the sight and adding a muzzle device,,,plus a trigger job.
But its most likely been close to 20yrs since I did mine and Im sure there is more info and probably newer, better ways today.
IIRC, the site or forum you want and can find out what works, all the tricks, etc, is 'perfect union',,,unless my memory is faulty or somebody else knows of another thats better.

I owned a few minis back in the 80's and finally gave them up for better things..
Tried a mini 30 when they came out, but didnt fair much better.
Finally ended up with another after a complicated trade deal and tried to make it better,,,which I still own and am more than happy with for what it is.

If you like working on guns and dont mind altering or modifying stuff, give it a shot, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised,,,:wink:

Cheers, yv
 

hueyville

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All of my Mini 14's shoot at least as well as most FAL's. Also have a few with Accu Struts to reduce barrel harmonics and tuned triggers that shoot well. Have two total custom builds thaf shoot sub MOA and one is a 6.8 picked up so would not have to mess with my NIB 6.8. Very few factory rifles collapse as small as a Ruger GB Factory Folder. My AC556 is a whole lotta fun when hit the fun switch. Got to have a few of everything.
 

Randall

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Brother yovinny: A real question for you:

WHERE can I find out HOW to make a Mini-14 a "2.5" gun", especially the part whereby "its very easy". I would truly appreciate any help with this as I am still the owner of (3) stock Mini's. I have considered getting rid of them more than once but my oldest kid insists we keep them and I was thinking they would be useful to my daughters.

Scoping them will be my next series of questions, but for now, I would just like to make them more accurate than they are reputed to be.

Respectfully,

Jarhead
Jarhead,
I did my mini 14 updates about 10 years ago. However, do some searching around YouTube. Search for mini14 trigger jobs, and glass bedding a mini14.

The glass bedding job and trigger job videos were put out there by I want to say Great Western Gunsmithing...haven't seen those pop up recently. But, they may still be out there. However, I am sure there are others if you look around.

I recently saw a trigger job video that was narrated by a real tool that goes by the name of NUTNFANCY, but he filmed his gunsmith doing the job and had him explain the job as he did it. He used the same method as the original video that I used. I know that one is still out there. Just ignore the bullshit comments by the guy making the video.

Google Accustrut, I'm sure they are still out and for sale.

My rifle isn't a Ranch Rifle, so my scope base is a one piece unit that replaced the rear site of my rifle. I know, I know...no irons...it is a trade off. I don't recall the manufacturer though. Personally, I'd steer clear of side mounting scope mounts. I had one from BSquare once, and it was an aluminum POS that mounted my scope so high I couldn't get good cheek weld even with a pad.

I just found the manufacturer of the scope base that I used. S&K insta-mount is the name. I bought it through Brownells.

Good luck brother.
Randy

edited to add the new location of the videos that I used: https://www.facebook.com/TheGunDoc/...eiver-bedding-by-the-gundoc/1371100152983851/
 
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Tak

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All of my Mini 14's shoot at least as well as most FAL's. Also have a few with Accu Struts to reduce barrel harmonics and tuned triggers that shoot well. Have two total custom builds thaf shoot sub MOA and one is a 6.8 picked up so would not have to mess with my NIB 6.8. Very few factory rifles collapse as small as a Ruger GB Factory Folder. My AC556 is a whole lotta fun when hit the fun switch. Got to have a few of everything.
Were you able to measure the before and after accuracy with the accu-strut?

I still haven't found more than anecdotal evidence about their usefulness.
 

Bama Steve

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Were you able to measure the before and after accuracy with the accu-strut?

I still haven't found more than anecdotal evidence about their usefulness.
Me either which is why I am just ordering the replacement gas bushing kit to reduce action-cycling-gas-pressure first, bed the action and bbl second and see what happens.

https://www.ruger-mini-14-firearms.com/Gas-Reduction-Bushing-Kit.php


For the life of me, I cannot rationalize what the strut does that bedding alone wouldn't almost completely take care of.

As a matter of fact, we actually made a truss/strut similar to the one for the mini-14 on an FAL.

What we found was that as the rifle got hotter, the bbl length increased and the stiff/cold truss caused the bbl to bend skyward sending bullets 6 feet higher at 120 yards.

The truss/strut on the mini is mounted underneath and unless it allows the bbl to slide through it as it elongates then the POI is going to drive downwards after repeated firings.
 

Bama Steve

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Handled a SS on wood '584' series mini in .223 today and the bbl is thicker and tapers forward of the gas block and the trigger is about 5 lbs but breaks like glass - zero creep, just apply pressure and then it breaks.

I bought it.

Will post my findings later as time and ability permit.

:beer:
 

Bama Steve

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The ONE thing that made me buy this rifle over all other factors is: "it is dead-nuts-reliable".

It goes bang, every time.

That means to me that it rarely if ever suffers from breakages that stop the show until you source new parts.

What breaks on a mini-14?

Please tell me.
 

Randall

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The ONE thing that made me buy this rifle over all other factors is: "it is dead-nuts-reliable".
It goes bang, every time.
That means to me that it rarely if ever suffers from breakages that stop the show until you source new parts.
What breaks on a mini-14?
Please tell me.
The only thing I have had to replace was the bolt hold open mechanism, and honestly, I could have probably gotten away with some judicious grinding.
Everything else has been quite stable. I did buy a second 5 round magazine, but that was only because I got tired or reloading the only magazine I was using.

I never did replace my gas bushings, but I did re-torque all screws to match on the gas system. I read that differences in torque could cause issues with accuracy...though, I don't know how true that is.
 

hueyville

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Easy way:
Add Accustrut, adjustable gas block or just retorque factory gas block screws to 30 inch/pounds (most minis are in a bind due to these screws being tightened by feel and not torqed, polish op rod, send trigger to Accuracy Systems www.mini14triggers.com and properly glass bed the action without permanently gluing it into the stock as Ruger always has a lot of slop so actions drop easily into stocks. They are into making a reliable rifle as fast as they can. Slow down, hand fit all parts and upgrade a few and no reason for them not to shoot like a baby M1a Super Match. The Accustrut plus home brew trigger job done on a Power Custom hammer & Sear Jig, op rod polish and bedding usually knocks group size in half for me or better and takes two long evenings.

At that point adding a custom barrel and let professionals that do it daily is about all I can recommend for ultimate accuracy and with a good stiff custom barrel the Accustrut is not needed. Accuracy Systems will install a Kreiger barrel, bed, do gas block and trigger with a 1/2 MOA guarantee if want to spend some bucks. My custom 6.8 shoots 5/8" five shot groups from the magazine and have not tied to work up a custom load for it yet. Minis will shoot, just have to decide if want to dive in for better gun yourself or send off for near perfect. There are other companies that can accomplish the work as well

I can do Mini 14 triggers but by time I order lightened hammer, hammer strut, hammer spring, shims (keep in stock for quick Mini trigger jobs) install take up screw and over travel screw time involved and parts are more than paying the pros. I can square and hone critical parts, shim everything needing it and slap one back together with a new trigger spring and hammer strut which helps a lot but falls way short of a real precision trigger job and when I want my Mini trigger right ito goes off while I am doing the rest of the work.

The Brownells way to do it: https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=12840
 

TnHawk-45

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The State of Tennessee Department of Corrections (Prisons) use them, the GB version. Out of over 200 of them I have shot, NONE of them will group. That is why the officers qualify with them at 25 yards! Even at that little range about a quarter of the officers have to try more than once to qualify!

As to the .308 version Ruger tried to put out, they were an abortion waiting to happen with 'rumors' of test guns blowing up.

Model 77 bolt gun, I like it. Ruger pistols I like them. Ruger 10-22 I LOVE it.

Ruger semi auto rifle anything other than the 10-22 .........PIECE OF SHIT you are welcomed to!
 

hueyville

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Have a "few" GB factory folders including blue steel, stainless along with a 13" barrel AC-556 all with bayonet lugs and M7 bayonets. I feel it's one of the best folding stock designs ever. It's also amazing how much the accuracy can be improved in an evening with a few basic tools. Have seen Mini 14's that would not sight in at all then carefully loosen and tighten the gas block screws till gas block has a consistent gap and all torqued the same. Have pulled a rifle printing several inches left or right of target on zero just properly setting up the gas block. I start with 30 inch/pounds but will find group size changes with torque value. Some will shoot best at 34 inch/pounds and can literally watch the groups open or close as torque changes. Never exceed 36 inch/pounds or may likely find yourself with a shake off screw.

Mini-14's may have the worst assembly line quality control of any popular rifle on the market. Stocks have such huge holes so actions drop in without any effort or fitting as do 10/22's. If a person learns what to do and just properly tighten the screws, set up their rifle, shim or bed the action, home massage the trigger or have it professionally done they can be turned into fine shooters. Anyone who says they won't group at 25 yards want to stand on the muzzle end of mine at 250 yards? Even my 13" AC-556 in three shot burst will lay those three shots in burst mode in a better group than most off the shelf semi auto 16" Ranch Rifles. Just have to understand the nuances of what your buying with any firearm, what has to be done to fix it (even a new $2,000 SCAR has to be fixed out of the box) and impliment the fixes then it's all happy.

When I buy most any rifle have a pile of tasks required to sort it out. Know what has to be done to an M1a out of the box, how to go over a drunken monkey built CETME, make a Mini 14 shoot, build a 10/22 that will drive nails at 100 yards or an AR 15 that will drive nails at 400 yards but reason found this place is still have not sorted out all I need to know about FAL type rifles and still have a huge knowledge gap but learning. If you make a blanket statement like Mimi 14's or whatever won't shoot straight may want to study the issues and learn how to tweak all you can and improve the rifle to its potemtial. My turnbolt smith can spend a month massaging an action and blue printing a rifle to the point he can make it put five rounds in the same hole at 500 yards but you better bring a bag of cash.
 

hueyville

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I disagree with you on one point hueyville

A drunken monkey CETME Is almost beyond redemption
At least you know are buying a gun assembled by drunken monkeys. Ruger tries to claim quality control and top quality American firearms. An extra 20 minutes training and a few torque wrenches on the line and the Ruger Mini 14 accuracy issues would become almost tolerable for many.

As an FYI, can convert a Mini 14 to a binary fire weapon with a single stape inserted in the fire control system and it's a BATF approved modification. A nickels worth of staples will convert a couple dozen to binary fire then just remove the staple from FCS when finished wasting ammo. It's fun to pop someone's trigger group out, sneak a staple in, run a near full auto mag dump and then fix before returning.
 

Bama Steve

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I didn't really like the color of the stock that came with the mini-14 rifle I just bought.

I took it outside with a can of brake cleaner to de-grease all the parts and metal liners inside the stock and all the factory finish and stain on the wood stock crumpled up and fell off in the driveway.

So I have stripped/sanded it and am now refinishing it in something that matches my neck color.

Hope this isn't a precursor to things yet to come with this new rifle . . .

:rofl:
 

TnHawk-45

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Look on the bright side, you have just discovered a new and easy way to refinish the Mini stocks! I wonder if that will work on other Ruger stocks? I got a couple 10-22 stocks I want to refinish.

I was wrong earlier about semi auto Ruger rifles I did and did not like. Years ago I shot a semi auto Ruger 44 magnum carbine I liked. Shame is it worked so Ruger decided NOT to make them anymore!

I didn't really like the color of the stock that came with the mini-14 rifle I just bought.

I took it outside with a can of brake cleaner to de-grease all the parts and metal liners inside the stock and all the factory finish and stain on the wood stock crumpled up and fell off in the driveway.

So I have stripped/sanded it and am now refinishing it in something that matches my neck color.

Hope this isn't a precursor to things yet to come with this new rifle . . .

:rofl:
 

Bama Steve

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Look on the bright side, you have just discovered a new and easy way to refinish the Mini stocks! I wonder if that will work on other Ruger stocks? I got a couple 10-22 stocks I want to refinish.

I was wrong earlier about semi auto Ruger rifles I did and did not like. Years ago I shot a semi auto Ruger 44 magnum carbine I liked. Shame is it worked so Ruger decided NOT to make them anymore!
Thanks for the encouragement, Dude.

OK, the stock refinishing isn't perfect but good enough for now 3 coats and sanding between - can't seem to get the coating perfectly applied before it starts to dry so, fvck it- If I can turn it into a shooter it will get beat-up anyways.

I have managed to lock-up the action tonight just dry firing it tonight and the angle fit/alignment of the tail-end of the the firing pin got snagged against the place in the receiver that it passes through.

De-burred that and gave it some lube and seems to have cleared up for now.

There is much else to learn about this rifle and I realize now just how full of "What the FVCK!!" it is.

But I keep telling myself, "You asked for a challenge" and take a breath and start on the next thing wrong with it.

Trigger breaks cleanly without any creep but it is very heavy - gotta deal with that later.

I find lateral play of the receiver to stock-fit that I doubt shimming will cure but would probably improve - Looks like a receiver pin bedding job is ultimately on the menu.

Once I shoot it I will be able to take these observations above and apply them to solutions appropriately.

Or so I think . . .

:rofl:


.
 

yovinny

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Those factory birch stocks are famous for being difficult to get a pleasing refinish on.
Brownells offered a nice replacement blued steel butt plate for the plastic factory piece,,I dont know if they still do though.
.
 

Bama Steve

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STOCK REFINISHING/STAINING . . .

Well this turned out OK.

Before de-greasing:



After de-greasing (finish /stain fell off):



After refinishing with home mixed stain blend:



It's too glossy so I'll wait for the urethane to cure before dulling it with a Scotchbrite pad and resealing it.


The stock stain color is really growing on me as it looks different in different lighting conditions running from almost red at times to a light mid-tone brown at others.

I thought I would share my mixture with you so you can experiment.



This is the main component :



I added this at a rate of one (1) tablespoon at a time to the above ^ and tested it on several pieces of raw wood until I arrived at the color I wanted:

 
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