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Wet Tumbling....I'm Sold!

ArtBanks

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28761
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I enjoy the brass prep and loading almost as much as the shooting these days. I do wet tumble , anneal, trim and have a very enjoyable time of it. Currently loading and shooting 5 - 10 K of .308, 30-06 and 6.5 annually. An hour in the tumbler with ss , dawn and lemi-shine does the trick. A couple of hours in the dryer and we are ready to go. Not for everyone, but I sure have fun. Whatta Hobby!


Annealing 2.jpg AMA 80 brass close up..jpg IMG_4256.JPG PP 3.jpg Annealing 1.jpg

Thumler's model B.
Frankford brass dryer.
Giraud annealer.
Giraud trimmer.
 

hueyville

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I enjoy brass prep as much as loading also. Usually tumble in walnut, decap and "rough size" on turret press, deal with primer pockets and trim using a three way trimmer so the champhering is consistent. After the decapping and brass prep run it in an ultrasonic a few minutes to get any excessive case lube and rogue brass shavings dealt with then vaccum bag, put in screw top plastic jugs or store in sealed five gallon buckets if bulk range ammo.

A 50 to 250 count run of specialty ammo is loaded on single stage equipment and large runs go to a Dillon 550. Because brass may see a full length resizing die twice or decapping die followed by a full length size or shoulder bump die it will get annealed every two to three loadings so does not get work hardened. After loading all ammo is cleaned (usually wife and I double team this process wearing thin cotton gloves, wiping down each round and dropping in chamber checker before boxing) but often on really big runs clean up loaded ammo with a quick run in corn cob to give it a good shine and remove any residual oils or wax.

How shiny and clean want my brass is usually dependant on how long plan to store. If it's going to be shot and loaded again in matter of weeks or months then just clean enough know am not going to scratch a die or chamber. If it's going into long term storage where may stay years want it "like new" clean so there is no residual grunge to start growing green spots while it sits till a zombie apocalypse occurs or going to range where policing up brass is not allowed.

Track cases both by number of loadings but as much by wife's inspection wearing a pair of prescription 2.7x loops and probing inside of case with dental scalers. After lifetime in dental trade she can feel the slightest imperfection. When a batch of cases reach the point she starts failing more than 10% of cases in a lot feeling internal cracks or what may be beginning of crack near case head the "pass" cases are loaded as "last use" range ammo that will be left laying in tall grass, gravel or floor of the Ponderosa as we fight off zombies. Since never know how long these may be stored like them super clean before packaged and put away in lockers.
 

Smellycat

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I swab out the inside of the case with a brush and cut out the primer pocket carbon with a tool. Case lube and annealing removes enough of the skuz for me. Lee made the case in his reloading manual that tumbling exposes you to more a lot more lead...I get enough as it is.
 

Mint

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Is there any steel wet tumbling media that does not get stuck in bottle neck rifle cases? The pins are really a pain for anything other than straight wall pistol.
 

medicmike

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badzero

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After fighting Pins for a few years and replacing a couple of decapping pins on the 1050 I found these, works better than pins and don’t get stuck in the case, kind of the same thing as the Mike posted I think his are more uniform and nicer looking though. IMHO pins are crap, exactly the right size to get stuck crossways in the 5.56 case body and the neck of the .30, or like my last straw, a case body jammed full and stuck so badly I just tossed it after 5 minutes of failing to get them loose.

 
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