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Split Screw Repair

whisky_n_hot_dogs

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This is a problem I've had lately (two incidents). Split screw on the front sling loop of an Izzy build backs out under recoil. Also had a sight post on my AK build be all loose and then break when I tried pushing the threaded fingers apart slightly.

I know the first answer: Loctite of whichever flavor, but what about flame heating the fingers and pushing them out? Not sure if that would work with air cooling or need to drop in some oil to harden. It's such a small part I don't think I can heat, quench, temper without crossing back into recrystallization temperatures. I have the handy MAP gas torch. I do not have propane on hand which would probably be more appropriate.
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
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If you don’t mind straying slightly from authentic, on the sling screw anyway, replace it with an appropriate appearing solid screw and then, piener-ize the end of the screw threads. Pien that sucker, just bammer the shite of it.

As for the sight screw I’m not sure if you can get away with that. You may. Just try staking the end of the screw instead of piening it.

Just talking here, just talking. 🥸

Oh and, I don’t have any painting that needs to be done but, my driveway needs to be swept something awful and then sealed. LMK.
 

whisky_n_hot_dogs

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If you don’t mind straying slightly from authentic, on the sling screw anyway, replace it with an appropriate appearing solid screw and then, piener-ize the end of the screw threads. Pien that sucker, just bammer the shite of it.

As for the sight screw I’m not sure if you can get away with that. You may. Just try staking the end of the screw instead of piening it.

Just talking here, just talking. 🥸

Oh and, I don’t have any painting that needs to be done but, my driveway needs to be swept something awful and then sealed. LMK.
Not critical that it remain authentic. These are some good ideas. Just need to figure out the thread pitch. Thanks!
 

tac-40

Moderator, Armed Curmudgeon
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Clean the screw and swivel with alcohol or acetone. Install the swivel and apply Blue Loctite to the screw. Thread the screw into the swivel and tighten to desired tension. Wipe off the excess loctite. No heat needed to remove and will hold up to lots of vibration. This is the stuff used for scope rings and mounts for years.

From a Gun Plumber previous post:

Gas block interior, FAL & L1A1 17/32"-36
Gas tube exterior thread, FAL & L1A1 17/32"-36
gas tube Rear support, FAL & L1A1 9/16"-24
L1A1 front sight #10 - 40, 5 degree forward slant
Return spring tube plug, inside, FAL & L1A1 1/4-28
Front sling swivel screw and rear sight windage screws #8-36
StG front sight #12 (7/32") -28
FALO coupler and muzzle 11/16"-24
Belgian long flash suppressor screw (.335" long, .192" slot head) # 8-40
return spring tube male thread FAL is 17/32"-36.
return spring tube male thread L1A1 9/16"-32
return spring tube, female FAL & L1A1 15/32"-36.
L1A1 Grip Screw is a 1/4"-28 x 1-1/4" 2A slotted dome head (early), slotted cheese head (later), socket head (latest) round head screw
L1A1 grip screw lock washer 1/4" ID x 15/32" OD x .026" internal teeth. I've seen plenty of the same with external teeth.
L1A1 buttplate screw. 1/4-28 x 2.5" (L, XL), x 2" (N), x 1.5" (S)
FAL & L1A1 barrel, chamber end 1"-16
FAL barrel, muzzle end (early, long flash hider) 9/16-24 RH
FAL barrel, muzzle end (standard) 9/16"-24 LH
L1A1 barrel, muzzle end 9/16"-24 RH
 
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