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Remove STG58 barrel. Coat it and cook it. Reinstall barrel. EASY or Not?

deadeye

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This is the process I settled on with success - for me. This is for a semi-assembled riFAL, but the same basic process if you break it all down to individual parts.

Close enough for the girls I go with 😁
Thanks for the step-by-step.
Which process did you use? Alumahide or Duracoat? Something else?
 
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W.E.G.

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None of my guns get "re-finished."
If I had any guns that I had to be worried about scars from use and handling, I'd get rid of those guns riki tik.


I don't try to add new damage to my guns.
But I swear every love-tap they get just makes me more fond.
"Brass kisses are like lipstick on a zipper." I want more.
 

deadeye

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If I had any guns that I had to be worried about scars from use and handling, I'd get rid of those guns riki tik.
"Brass kisses are like lipstick on a zipper." I want more.
Damn. Now I'm gonna be all self conscious around my FALs...

I built FALs back in the day because I truly thought we were headed for SHTF in America. Been watching Ukrainian war news online and keeping an eye on the Radical Left in America, and internationally. Twenty years later and we're in far deeper trouble. SHTF is an even greater likelihood, so I think it wise to break up the easy-to-spot black-rifle silhouette.
 
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def90

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Cerakote too hard and expensive? Huh, I always just had a local guy blast my parts which I then parkerized in a drywall mud pan on my stove top, then sprayed with Cerakote using a Preval sprayer from Home Depot, baked in my oven, aired the house out and ran the cleaning cycle on the oven.

The blasting cost me a case of beer and a bottle of cheap tequila, the drywall mud pan was somewhere around $20, the park solution about the same, the Preval sprayer was $12 or something like that.
 

meltblown

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This is the process I settled on with success - for me. This is for a semi-assembled riFAL, but the same basic process if you break it all down to individual parts.

1- Prior to brake clean, I Iightly scuffed everything with scotchbrite pads then blew clean with compressed air. I did not remove any of the existing park or paint.
2- After brake cleaner but while still mostly damp, I wiped it down with a cotton rag which removed (or prevented) the hazy looking residue from the cleaner.
3a- I hung it vertically barrel up to paint with a wire down the barrel and a nut at the bottom which of course jammed against the breach to hold it. Bipod, flash hider, and handguards were off and painted separate. Before hanging it up, I held it downward and hit the nooks & crannies that would be facing down while hanging and hard to get to. Also the area behind the break down lever.
3b- Two coats roughly 20 minutes apart. There were some pieces such as gas regulator, rear sight, selector position, other?, that were out of position on the first coat. As soon as the first coat had flashed, I put the regulator back up on the threads, moved the sight to the rear, flipped selector back to safe, etc. The second coat then covered the small areas not accessible for the first coat.
4-If you bake in the house, let it sit for a few days before baking which seems to "de-gas" the paint or something and make less smell.
5-I baked it at 225 (above boiling point) for two hours, then kicked up to 275 for about 20 minutes. Shut the oven off and let it cool naturally overnight.
6- Baking is not required but it makes a huge difference in the durability of the final finish. I have tested this process in the past by painting two 1" washers, then baking only one of them. Wait a week or so, so that the unbaked one should be cured and then scratch the surface with a carbide scribe. HUGE difference to paint toughness and adhesion which was still true many weeks later in case there was any doubt of the full cure on the unbaked washer.

Close enough for the girls I go with 😁
I use that ceramic engine paint and start it slow for and hour and move up 100 degrees every hour till I get to 400. Then shut it off and cool down. I noticed that if I shoot say the next day that the paint is still trying to cure. After about a month or so just being left alone it sure seems to get harder. The main reason I like 400 is it seems to level the rattle can job out nicely
 

Invictus77

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I use that ceramic engine paint and start it slow for and hour and move up 100 degrees every hour till I get to 400. Then shut it off and cool down. I noticed that if I shoot say the next day that the paint is still trying to cure. After about a month or so just being left alone it sure seems to get harder. The main reason I like 400 is it seems to level the rattle can job out nicely
Will the plastic CH knob make it at 400 or do you do that separately?
 

def90

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In general all paints have solvents in them that allow them to remain liquid in the can and allow you to spray them. When you use a spray paint per say those solvents evaporate for lack of a better term which allows the paint to dry. Baking the parts after spraying accelerates this process. If you spray something with spray paint and allow it to sit for a month without touching it with your fingers it would most likely be as hard of a finish as a baked finish. The baking just allows you to fondel it after a few hours vs a few weeks. The high temp baking can change some of the pigment qualities though.
 

deadeye

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Cerakote too hard and expensive? Huh, I always just had a local guy blast my parts...
Count your blessings. You have friends who can and are willing to DO things.

which I then parkerized in a drywall mud pan on my stove top...
24" SS mud pan, welded. I had no idea mud pans could be 24" wide. Largest knife I ever used was 10". If I had known about this when I built these rifles, I'd have parked everything and been done.

...then sprayed with Cerakote using a Preval sprayer from Home Depot
I watched Cerakote's own how-to vid. Serious bidness. Hard to imagine using a Preval sprayer. Those guys'll probably come looking for you now.
 
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meltblown

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I'm confused, but that happens easily❓❓❓❓❓❓

Of course it will make it, or of course you do it separate?
Yes, that's why I bought a bunch of rivets so I can put them back on. I usually limit baking plastic HGs, PGs and stuff to 200 F. I quit painting plastic though. It was all the rage 14 yrs ago.
 

deadeye

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Will an STG58 butt stock melt if baked at 325F for an hour? That's what original GUN-KOTE requires, and I'm thinking that's too hot. If letting it just sit for a month would really be as durable as a baked finish, I could do that...
 

Invictus77

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Yes, that's why I bought a bunch of rivets so I can put them back on. I usually limit baking plastic HGs, PGs and stuff to 200 F. I quit painting plastic though. It was all the rage 14 yrs ago.
That makes more sense. I do not bake any furniture, wood, plastic or otherwise, only steel pieces. The one exception to steel is the plastic CH which will do fine in my method. That's why the 400F surprised me with that in mind LOL.
 

meltblown

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That makes more sense. I do not bake any furniture, wood, plastic or otherwise, only steel pieces. The one exception to steel is the plastic CH which will do fine in my method. That's why the 400F surprised me with that in mind LOL.
The main thing I notice is that it levels the paint. I'm not sure if it necessary to make it harder. Seems that it's more of an oxidative curing process to get it to crosslink. I will say that you pour Aircraft Stripper on it, it will melt off like a candy bar in your pocket
 

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I spray charging handles with knob masked off, wave the part in front of a heater for a couple minutes and call it good. The CH isn't hard to remove and repaint should the need arise and with old knobs I'm afraid I'll wreck them trying to remove and reinstall. If the slide is bare I'll paint and bake with the rest then install the knob.
 

def90

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I spray charging handles with knob masked off, wave the part in front of a heater for a couple minutes and call it good. The CH isn't hard to remove and repaint should the need arise and with old knobs I'm afraid I'll wreck them trying to remove and reinstall. If the slide is bare I'll paint and bake with the rest then install the knob.
A heat gun would probably be sufficient.
 

hkshooter

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A heat gun would probably be sufficient.
Don't own one but you are right.
The very first time I ever painted a rifle it was an old Turk Mauser and I used BBQ paint. Cured it with a torch lamp, cook it until it smoked and moved the light along cooking the finish as I went. Crude but it worked, that finish was very durable.
 

lew

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Will an STG58 butt stock melt if baked at 325F for an hour? That's what original GUN-KOTE requires, and I'm thinking that's too hot. If letting it just sit for a month would really be as durable as a baked finish, I could do that...
I would expect deformation at that temp. Not something I'd be willing to chance.
 

gunplumber

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Will the plastic CH knob make it at 400 or do you do that separately?
A factory FN will handle 300F.

My Delrin ones will

Cast argy (see mold line) and DSA will melt.

400 - I don't even try. But I have a thousand rivets.

All factory FN furniture will handle 300 F. But sometimes the handguards will warp out of alignment at the top front. So I cure for 2 hours at 200. They can be forced back into shape by hose-clamping them around a scrap barrel/HG retainer and baking again.

Fiberglass stinks at 300F.

DSA X stock melts at 300. Badly.
 
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