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M14- getting a little more compression?

lew

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Howdy folks.

I have a Fulton receiver in a USGI birch stock. Caveat: I like the stock- it's got plenty of character but has not had the shyte beaten out of it- and I'm not going to spend much money trying to rectify the situation. First person that recommends replacing or bedding the stock gets the hickory stick, and I make house calls.:devilish:

The HTS snaps in to the receiver and locks fine, but there's a slight amount of vertical movement (1-1.5mm) in the stock. I'd like to put a thin bead of something around where the receiver meets the stock aft of the lugs. Will wood glue hold up? I have regular JB weld on-hand. How well does that work on wood?
 

SilverEagle

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I had a similar issue with a laminated Fulton stock on my Springfield M1a bush rifle.
I cut 3 pieces of thin neoprene rubber from a old mouse pad, it was maybe 1/8” thick.
I then used some high strength 3m double sided tape and placed a piece on the inside surface on the trigger housing but where the trigger guard locks into place, and a piece on each “leg” by the mag catch….
I hope my description helps you out. It’s not a bedding job, but has worked well for me so far…
 

ArtBanks

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I have used sheet brass and added thicknesses until things tighten up. Regular JB weld would do the trick but you want to make sure to apply a release agent to any metal it might contact.
Currently, for my own use, I apply Pro-bed 2000 to the trigger pad contact areas, close the trigger guard all but the last 2 inches and let set for 24hrs. Don't forget a release agent no matter what bedding you might use.
 

TerryN

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Back in the olden days, wooden shims were used to increase draw for NM M1 rifles. That's how the old adage began about 'he got a Nat'l Match M1, and promptly disassembled it to clean it. He ruined it!' Unless I'm badly mistaken, anyway. I would think that small pieces of wood veneer and some glue would work admirably for this project. It might be a temporary fix, but it could easily be repeated when needed.
 

yellowhand

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Back in the olden days, wooden shims were used to increase draw for NM M1 rifles. That's how the old adage began about 'he got a Nat'l Match M1, and promptly disassembled it to clean it. He ruined it!' Unless I'm badly mistaken, anyway. I would think that small pieces of wood veneer and some glue would work admirably for this project. It might be a temporary fix, but it could easily be repeated when needed.
Thats how I do it,,,,use thin walnut veneer, and glue it in place, sanding as needed for a nice tight fit custom fit.
Since its hidden,,,once action is nice and tight, top the wood with a couple coats of finish oil,,,all done.

Wood stocks contract over time,,,or swell and crack, or both, :)LOL wood added to fit the action, easy to adjust over time.

Fiberglass stocks,,,,,break out the glass bedding and be done with it..
 

lew

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Awesome info.

The rifle was shooting about 1.25 MOA, so I don't think I'll mess with it right now. However, I do have adhesive-backed neoprene that I use for cheek padding that would do the trick.

Much appreciated, lads.
 

ArtBanks

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Wood stocks have a habit of expanding in humid weather and shrinking in dry. Hopefully someone has not removed material from the stock during a humid period.
 

lew

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Wood stocks have a habit of expanding in humid weather and shrinking in dry. Hopefully someone has not removed material from the stock during a humid period.
Nothing removed, but it's known for a being a wee bit dry here in the desert wastes. It's got a few coats of tung oil on it, though.

Aluminum tape.

Never tried it on anything other than rimfire, but you can really tightly shim an action into a stock with it.

Or, do it right..... 😉
Do it right? I'm a half-asser. A shirker and a shammer. You must have me confused with a full-asser.

However, I have plenty of aluminum tape...
 

Bwana John

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Nothing removed, but it's known for a being a wee bit dry here in the desert wastes. It's got a few coats of tung oil on it, though.

Do it right? I'm a half-asser. A shirker and a shammer. You must have me confused with a full-asser.

However, I have plenty of aluminum tape...
A real half-asser would just wait for monsoon humidity to swell the wood....
 
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ArtBanks

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Seems to be at least one spoil sport in every crowd. I liked your reply. Good man. I use JAE chassis for my precision M14s. They have adjustable trigger pad screws for that perfect fit.
In you situation shimming would seem to take care of things.

Mom a poodle.jpg FAL 7.jpg Today XM21 ver1 ser 3.jpg Beast 3.jpg
 

lew

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Seems to be at least one spoil sport in every crowd. I liked your reply. Good man. I use JAE chassis for my precision M14s. They have adjustable trigger pad screws for that perfect fit.
In you situation shimming would seem to take care of things.
I think a couple layers of aluminum tape will take care of it. Those JAE stocks look rad, too.

While we're here, Art: what do you recommend for a retro-looking scope and mount configuration; a rough approximation of a VN-era sniper M14 without shelling out the bucks for a TEL mount. I'm thinking a Bassett high mount and a Hi-Lux M40 3-9x.
 

ArtBanks

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I think a couple layers of aluminum tape will take care of it. Those JAE stocks look rad, too.

While we're here, Art: what do you recommend for a retro-looking scope and mount configuration; a rough approximation of a VN-era sniper M14 without shelling out the bucks for a TEL mount. I'm thinking a Bassett high mount and a Hi-Lux M40 3-9x.
Got me on that one. I was ready to reply to your question and you already gave the same answer I was going to type. Those Hi-lux 40s are very nice. Glass is better than the originals and the Bassett mount would be a perfect choice. I have a few of each on rifles and no problems. Just remember the M40s of today may be a little more fragile than those of yesteryear.
 

lew

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Got me on that one. I was ready to reply to your question and you already gave the same answer I was going to type. Those Hi-lux 40s are very nice. Glass is better than the originals and the Bassett mount would be a perfect choice. I have a few of each on rifles and no problems. Just remember the M40s of today may be a little more fragile than those of yesteryear.
Well, thank you for the confirmation. Nice to know I'm not way out in left field.

Still undecided if I want another M14 with optics or if I want to leave it with just iron sights. Do you know if the green anodized scope would be even remotely correct or plausible for an Army-issued rifle? I like the look of the green, which would go great with the brown furniture.

Cheers!
 

lew

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Color is not even close. Top two photos are of rifles with the Hi - Lux M40 greenies. Bottom photo is of me shooting a real deal M40 on my range.


View attachment 206306 View attachment 206307 View attachment 206308
Defo way brighter on the repop. Those pictures perfectly illustrate that, so thanks! I would probably get the black one and paint it.

I'm quite jealous of the M40. If I ever got the itch to get a bolt action, an M40 or M40A1 would be it.
 

ArtBanks

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Defo way brighter on the repop. Those pictures perfectly illustrate that, so thanks! I would probably get the black one and paint it.

I'm quite jealous of the M40. If I ever got the itch to get a bolt action, an M40 or M40A1 would be it.
An FN SPR is a way better rifle and a heck of a lot less money. The Rem 700s are ok, but that's about it.

FN FPR on rock.jpg
 

lew

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An FN SPR is a way better rifle and a heck of a lot less money. The Rem 700s are ok, but that's about it.

View attachment 206403
Of the SPR, I've little doubt. Remington's have yet to impress me, although I can get some tiny groups out of my brother's. Took a lot of work to get there. I'm set for modern weapons and have been on a very merry vintage kick as of late. Really, I'm just kicking the idea around as I don't have the time to shoot what I have.

That's a handsome rifle.
 
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