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How far can you push an oil filter and battery on a car?

Cava3r4

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I change the oil (synthetic that Ford uses) every 5K miles and filter. I used to change every 3K and they talked me out of it.
80 bucks for an oil change is CHEAP compared to a rebuilt motor and the labor to put it all together and to NOT PINCH ANY WIRING while doing so and BREAKING something else!!

As for the battery. I had a Legend 75 (NAPA) battery last me 8 years. 4 in MN and 4 in AZ. 4 years in AZ is UNHEARD of. Every Battery there goes BEFORE 3 years. Interestingly, the specific gravity of a fully charged battery in MN is 1.260 ...twelve sixty us mechanics called it as. The acid is 1.260 times the weight of water. In AZ, a NEW battery fully charged is at 1.225. SO, I am guessing part of that is to prevent FREEZING up in MN when it gets down to an honest 40 BELOW zero (not windchill....actual temp). But the Batterys in AZ I had to swap out between 2 and 3 years in Fords, and Toyotas.
 

V guy

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Oil Filter material may become clogged over time, due to its paper constituents, and the media may then partially collapse...fortunately the BYPASS spring, built into most filters, ensures that going longer than 5000 miles before a filter change................ ENSURES your engine gets a steady supply of UNFILTERED oil, as the bypass is always open. Fram....

Pressure differential is the factor in the pressure bypass opening, especially on cold mornings, when OLD oil is at its thickest................0-20 grade is 0, on cold starts, at least under 3000 miles...........after that....gooey. That filter bypass spring has to work when cold........ or the filter may bulge and leak.

After oil gets cooked enough, its is just a mucky hydrocarbon.........varnished and stuck rings are assured, too. Polymer chains break down.

WFT is that polymer shit?



The best solution prior to a teardown, for stuck rings,is to run ATF transmission fluid in the engine, 4 qts. until the strong detergent in the ATF breaks down the vanish.

Engines have been run on pure water in the crankcase and even no oil................the ATF does really work.

Motor oil is a coolant and a lubricant....................modern engines rely on this cooling effect, to run cooler and more efficiently..lube is a given......


Many engines now have piston jets..directing jets of oil from the crank directly to the bottom of the pistons........... to again cool the engine as many today have high compression......COOKS THAT OIL GOOD!!
Typical:

I recommend 36,000 mile oil changes, or 3 years......... as then you get a new engine.

The days of 350 chevy trucks and whatever oil...... died in 1985.
 

madrad62

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Oh yea, never trust the stealership! they told me that because I wanted the oil changed at 1k .that I would have to forfit the 10k change and check. told me they were going to do the 5k service check and rotation.watched from the side lines, 20 something oil change monkey thought he was doing a six cylinder,started to drop the skid plate, its a 4cylinder, dont need to! puts the self tappers back in and didnt tighten them all the way. didnt rotate the tires[ thats ok ,at 1k it doesnt need it]. I get home and check to see if there was a new filter on there,yes there was, but the skid plate had about a 1/8 th in gap.I could lift it up and down enough to make it rattle.tightened the bolts { actually large self tap screw] and figured it will never go back there again. Ive always done the general maint and repairs myself on everything, so that when I need something done beyond my patientsl level it doesnt hurt so bad.
Having a late 20s service manager tell me what I need and dont need makes me want to have a felony assault charge. Ive been buying new vehickles before that asshole was born and probably fucked his mom or grandmother when I was young[ back then I went by the creed,18 to 80, blind, crippled or crazy] Its at 5k now and will do the oil and rotation myself. atleast I know it will be done correct. Its just a shame that you pay a lot of money for a new vehickle and you cant trust the manufacturer to do the right thing without fucking it up
 

V guy

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Modern engines use aluminum for its cooling properties, and as a result can use less radiator size/coolant capacity, and make the vehicles lighter for better mileage......AND THEY USE THE OIL AS A COOLANT.

Cooking motor oil.................... by spraying it at pistons, etc, ruins the oil faster.
 

alphadog58

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Just changed the oil and filter on the neighbors little JD backhoe. Yucky and black as midnight. Yeah I know diesel engine oil gets black but this was bad. Old gal who owns it didn't remember when it was last changed. Runs noticeably quieter now... Good thing I borrow it regularly, if I didn't it would never get any maintenance.
Larry
 

ratas calientes

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Remember when 100% synthetic oil came out, and many folks were stating that it would never have to be changed? Just had to change the filter? I recall trying to explain to a co-worker (he had a BS and MS in electrical engineering, so not stupid) that there were contaminants in oil that would not filter out? That the oil needed changing? That any oil would eventually break down? He never believed me.

I use standard oil in the '85 Toyota truck, and synthetic in the newer cars. Change oil and filter every 5K miles. Easy to compute when the next service is needed with a glance at the odometer.
 

Cessnapilot89

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Remember when 100% synthetic oil came out, and many folks were stating that it would never have to be changed? Just had to change the filter? I recall trying to explain to a co-worker (he had a BS and MS in electrical engineering, so not stupid) that there were contaminants in oil that would not filter out? That the oil needed changing? That any oil would eventually break down? He never believed me.

I use standard oil in the '85 Toyota truck, and synthetic in the newer cars. Change oil and filter every 5K miles. Easy to compute when the next service is needed with a glance at the odometer.
Didn't Mobil 1 originally claim change the filter and add a quart?
 

Tuhlmann

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There is some absolute outdated, misinformed, unqualified bullshit in the first three pages of this thread. There are also some nuggets of solid and sound information from some dudes that actually know. I feel bad for the guys that have to try and figure out which is which, because there ain't nobody as certain he is correct as a dumbfuck dealing out automotive advice. 😂

YMMV of course. Literally.
 

jimmbob

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...... and will do the oil and rotation myself. atleast I know it will be done correct. Its just a shame that you pay a lot of money for a new vehickle and you cant trust the manufacturer to do the right thing without fucking it up
gotta agree, I do all my tire rotations, oil changes and basic maintenance that I can do myself for that reason

I'd rather take my rig to a high school auto shop than to a Dodge dealership's shop,(NOT joking)
 

L Haney

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Remember when 100% synthetic oil came out, and many folks were stating that it would never have to be changed? Just had to change the filter? I recall trying to explain to a co-worker (he had a BS and MS in electrical engineering, so not stupid) that there were contaminants in oil that would not filter out? That the oil needed changing? That any oil would eventually break down? He never believed me.
The backup generator at work (Quarter Megawatt) has a Waukesha engine with a specific oil and additive "package". The guys that do the annual service love those engines. And they will be the first to tell you that lube has a lifespan. Doesn't matter the color hasn't changed, it loses critical properties over the run life. They don't sell the oil so I never doubted them.
 

12v71

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The backup generator at work (Quarter Megawatt) has a Waukesha engine with a specific oil and additive "package". The guys that do the annual service love those engines. And they will be the first to tell you that lube has a lifespan. Doesn't matter the color hasn't changed, it loses critical properties over the run life. They don't sell the oil so I never doubted them.
Worked with a few old Waukesha 145's on drill rigs running on propane, Oil never changed color at all, had a guy call me out because he lost oil pressure. The oil had pretty much turned to paraffin had to clean the screen and dump the pan to get it going again. He said he had been waiting for the oil to change color before he changed it. Seven years?
 

C-ya

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The backup generator at work (Quarter Megawatt) has a Waukesha engine with a specific oil and additive "package". The guys that do the annual service love those engines. And they will be the first to tell you that lube has a lifespan. Doesn't matter the color hasn't changed, it loses critical properties over the run life. They don't sell the oil so I never doubted them.
Tagged to reply with the Speed utoob video about oil losing it's good stuff from sitting around. Very eye-opening.

Video:
 

V guy

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When auto makers moved to aluminum in engine components, heads, blocks, etc and plastic manifolds.......by 1995...... a 1995 Ford Taurus 4 cam V6 for example ----millions of them made........ is typical......

As Detroit was under EPA pollution and overall fleet mileage mandates, they figured out how to use oil as a coolant, to make the engines run cooler with aluminum components, and then use smaller radiators...a lighter more fuel efficient vehicle...not your cave man's 1978 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup truck.

SUV's converted mostly to the aluminum engine and most cars by 2000.

Many purchased by poor people who would never change the oil..had no knowledge about it.

At the local Pick and Pay auto junkyard are plenty of cars built like above Taurus's and most are there that say "bad engine", on the windshield....Oil related?

Illiterate Neanderthals do own cars and trucks....proof..like solar generators are no fucking good...no neanderthal owns one or will..can't figure out how to run one as it has no pull rope anyway...they just use generators that use one gallon fuel per 50 hours.

Ook, oof.


Change the fucking oil........FRAM
 

V guy

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Can you crush an oil filter? YES!!

On one VW based engine race car, I used to shim the oil pressure relief valve in the case....one cold morning starting the 20-50 oil, the pressure was too much...A spin on oil filter, with bypass in it, started leaking from the rubber gasket. Gage read 70 psi cold.

I switched to an an -8 fitting oil filter housing, with steel cage and mesh inside.

When I went to service the filter and look for metal,the damn cage was crushed too.
Hydraulics are inexorable...liquids are not compressible that is why hydraulic rams work.

Many racing tips are to shim the V8 oil pumps pressure relief valve too...I no longer do it and now just run a stock or a HV, not HP pump, and no shimming.

I have not built more than about 20 street and race engines...no where as many as 12V-71 has, but oil is the key to life.

run that motherfucker 20,000 miles and show-em whose boss.

Oil does break down..........heat, friction, Harley Vtwin engines are the hardest on oil it is said as they shear the oil bonds fast.
 

jjjxlr8

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Remember when 100% synthetic oil came out, and many folks were stating that it would never have to be changed? Just had to change the filter? I recall trying to explain to a co-worker (he had a BS and MS in electrical engineering, so not stupid) that there were contaminants in oil that would not filter out? That the oil needed changing? That any oil would eventually break down? He never believed me.

I use standard oil in the '85 Toyota truck, and synthetic in the newer cars. Change oil and filter every 5K miles. Easy to compute when the next service is needed with a glance at the odometer.
The biggest benefit I see with full synthetic oils is that they won't burn like conventional oils in the journal bearing of many turbo chargers. On older turbo charger cars you would have warnings to make sure to never shut the engine off immediately after driving on the highway. You were supposed to let the car idle for a few minutes to allow the turbo to cool before the flow of oil through that bearing stopped. If you used conventional oil, the oil stuck in the bearing location could burn and coke up the bearing resulting in premature failure. Turbo timers were a tool to help make sure you didn't forget this. With full synthetic oils it's much less likely to happen.
 

jjjxlr8

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I'm going to admit going ghetto here. I change the oil every 10k, Mobil 1 full synthetic on my 4 cyl beater Toyota, but the oil filter is a cannister type and just a pain in the ass to deal with on a nice clean driveway so I've been pushing the filters to 20k miles. Its 0W-20 oil and I cant see any evidence of the filters becoming degraded or plugged, is this still a bad idea?

My wife has a 4cyl crossover that we bought new 5 years ago and it still has the factory battery. She also has a beater car so this one only has 26k miles on it. Battery tester still shows almost 14 volts on a cold battery but I assume that time elaspsed also dictates that I am pushing my luck? My cheapskate BIL once pushed a battery to 7 years on his daily driver.
I got 11 years out of an OE Honda battery once. Most replacement batteries only last about 5 years these days. A lot of times
gotta agree, I do all my tire rotations, oil changes and basic maintenance that I can do myself for that reason

I'd rather take my rig to a high school auto shop than to a Dodge dealership's shop,(NOT joking)
My youngest brother bought his wife a new Tahoe that is loaded. This past Winter is was due for an oil change and it was cold out and my brother was busy so he told her to take it to the local Jiffy Lube. He came home to find a big streak of oil all the way up his concrete drive leading to the Tahoe. He crawled under there and the oil filter was loose. You would think that a business that primarily does oil changes would be able to screw on the oil filter correctly. It wasn't even the cartridge style, it was the regular screw on type. Almost destroyed a brand new $70k vehicle. If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself these days!
 

ddbtoth

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Oil changes every 5k max. With new filter. New engines get full synthetic old engines get proper weight and whatever I feel like at the time. 60s and 70s engines aren't sophisticated and it doesn't matter too much.
A battery will Let you know before it fails completely pay attention and it's not a big issue.
Same thing, 0-20W with filter very 5k miles on my 2015 Honda Pilot, takes me 30 minutes and costs me $30.
 
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