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Generator, batteries & power supply

NFADLR

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Diesel Generators if not sized or operated correctly are subject to "Wet Stacking".

Keep that in mind.

Sources for ex military generators.

 
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LYCAN

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Ok, lets say I got my generator but I do not want to run it all the time....but I need semi-long term power (enough to run the fridge, a couple lights and a small heater fan). How can I incorporate batteries in the equation ? Would 6 or 8 car batteries charged off the generator every fews days be enough to run my appliances? This way I could save fuel and $$$ and always have at least some juice :)
Also, Honda generators, the Eu2000/Eu2000i etc, can be ran in tandem. Doubling your power.

I also got a Tri-Fuel kit for mine.

So it can run on Gasoline, Propane or Natural Gas

Its a semi-simple conversion, but would void the warranty. But in a serious emergency, I doubt I would be worried about ANY 'Warranties'

Just sayn'
 

LYCAN

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I wouldn't bother with a Diesel Generator, unless I was a Diesel mechanic or VERY good friends with one.

They are the 2nd most best [Top Shelf] option, but Diesel has high demands.
 

LYCAN

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I wouldn't bother with a Diesel Generator, unless I was a Diesel mechanic or VERY good friends with one.

They are the 2nd most best [Top Shelf] option, but Diesel has high demands.
Also consider, whats down stream of the juice.

Ie: led rope lights, instead of an Incandescent buld, a converted Chest freezer can act as an 80% more efficient fridge, then even a Small dorm fridge.

Thiers even a device that can hack a basic window unit A/C & if placed in a solid makeshift (insulated) box - you can have your own walk in freezer - for pennies on the dollar
 

hueyville

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Saw Maha/Powerex released a new model of their battery charger with break in, refresh, discharge, multiple cycling, etc so since buying a charger and been a couple years since picked up more than a pack or two of batteries loaded down in case never able to buy batteries again and wished I had added more for the survival long haul. This is station on dresser in master bedroom, have bigger setup on electronics bench in basement but don't need to be charging 130 amp hour telecom batteries in bedroom just keeping our common devices running with fresh batteries.

KIMG3140.JPG

Since buying the new battery amalyzer/charger replacing the two in this photo and another eight battery smart charger similar to one in photo loaded up on rechargables and also bought two dozen lithium AAs, two dozen lithium AAAs and a dozen 9V lithium for high drain devices prefer full voltage and huge power reserves compared to rechargeable batteries and alkalines. This is what added to the rotation...

MH-C9000PRO_Main1b__50305~2.jpg

Some rechargeable 9Vs (actually 8.4v which matters in some devices & why keep 9V lithiums)

c570d349-8e0d-4f4e-bc1c-dc0512d3eab5.2fa20637ac18994828f921a5d94c9441~2.jpeg

C cell rechargeables:
6txjfRfx.jpeg~2.jpg

D cell rechargeables:
3uH_JsJd-1.jpeg~2.jpg
The standard Eneloop are rated to over 2,000 recharge cycles but I get more so added a dozen more AAs and AAAs:

61CI8Cuz5EL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_FMwebp__copy_990x551.jpg

61vVx7RX-OL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_FMwebp__copy_885x493.jpg

The Eneloop Pros have more energy reserve but are rated for just over half the cycles of the standard version so I buy both but have not had either fail to point I could not recover:

71pWpXxiuPL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_FMwebp__copy_885x493.jpg

Got ten more AAs and sixteen more AAAs to round out my cart along with some specialty batteries, button cells and other odd stuff we all need in key fobs and other devices like a new Harley that won't crank because a CR2022 in keychain went dead. There is a work around but like having battery need to just make the swap.
61Alt+9XkwL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_FMwebp_(1)_copy_885x493.jpg


Keep your battery supply strong by adding a few even if feel you have enough, way I buy flashlights next trip to somewhere with selection of Nebo and other mid grade lights will need more batteries to keep all going with spares on the ready.
 

KoKodog

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there are 123a batteries (nominal voltage 3.0 VDC) which are throw away when depleted

there are RCR123a batteries (nominal voltage 3.6 VDC) that you recharge when depleted

there are 16340 rechargeable batteries that are 1mm longer in total length than a RCR123a (nominal voltage 3.7 VDC)

each type has different discharge rates and nominal shelf life or ability to hold charge over time

I have a small light made to accept all 3 types but it really shines w/ the 16340 due to its higher voltage and high discharge rate

if you want a monster of a light get one that will take several of the 18650 type batteries (rechargeable) the price is steep
example; https://batteryjunction.com/flashlights/shop-by-power-source/18650-flashlights/nitecore-tm28
 

hueyville

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Streamlight and one other company (exact same batteries & charger) that made a true CR123 rechargeable but they used a very basic charger (I generally don't buy batteries that come with a free charger) and if not tended when charging were having just enough burst into flames. They recalled them all and have not tried rechargeables again. Surefire went back to the drawing board and have a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) SFLFP123 rechargeable. They are rated 80% power capacity of a standard CR123 but in reality are more like 70% if charged in supplied charger.

If charged, discharged and refreshed properly you can get the claimed 80% of a standard CR123 or maybe 85%. If look at the charger for the Surefires then cross reference it can be purchased from electronics specialty stores for $5.99 to $11.99 and seen the charger high as $19.99 but it's still a $4.99 "dumb" charger. I use a XTAR DRAGON VP4 Plus 4 Channel Digital Battery Charger which is a $54.99 to $74.99 smart charger based on seller but if look at comparability it's not listed as a CR123 charger but it will work and work well if you are a electronics geek and know how to make the right pieces play nicely with each other. The Dragon VPR lists comparability with 16340 which is the exact same physical size as a CR123 but is 3.7 volts and uses a different chemistry which is where things get tricky. Have seen people use 16340s as drop in replacements and brag about how much brighter their light is till the circuitry or the LED turns into smoke. I use the old Streamlights and the new Surefires in the least expensive items I own that use CR123/CR123a batteries just to cycle them enough they don't die from sitting unused for extended periods of time.

In anything expensive I use a name brand CR123/CR123a Lithium as they are only $1.99 each in bulk packs and with my wholesale account when buy fifty count boxes drop closer to $1.49 each for a name brand CR123it's running. 3.0 volt CR123/CR123A "loaded voltage" is 2.0 to 2.5 volts in the device when its running. If use a single 16340 your loaded voltage is going to be over three volts and high dollar electronics can get really upset if run them over or undervoltage. I have three night vision devices that were given to me after their owners let the smoke out of something in it trying to run them with overvolt or over amp power source.

The NiCad AA and AAA batteries in my last post are rated at 1.2 volts, if your device needs four 1.5 volt Alkaline batteries your shorting it based on if batteries are running parallel or serial from 0.3 to 1.2 volts. Using my smart chargers, proper break in then, some multi-cycling in a good smart charger ($75 to $300 chargers) can exceed manufacturer rating and usually most show 1.30 to 1.39 volts off a fresh charge cycle. A smart device that senses low voltage often just refuses to run with out of spec battery voltage especially low voltage but some will see the 3.7 volts of a 16340 as 3.1/3.2 volts under load and run but over time it will cause it to overheat somewhere in say a power supply capacitor or worse a LED and even worse the tube where the magic happens.

Every night vision device given to me because owner used wrong battery or cheap batteries and when manufacturer asked said "I was using Nicad rechargeables" will get reply saying instructions clearly say use 1.5 volt alkalines or lithiums, you ran it with 1.2 volt Nicads and voided your warranty. Other thing is using cheapest alkalines from Walmart that bust under load and once battery housing is filled with acid manufacturer rolls that on user. Usually undervoltage does not hurt devices as their either just dim or go into self protection and shut off. Running slightly over voltage and over amperage for a couple hours and your popping something.

My wife burns up flashlights all the time and her response is always "I noticed it was really hot before it quit working". I will give her a rechargeable Nebo she can charge using her phone charger but will turn it on and leave on too long till heat overcomes it especially if she falls asleep and light is laying nestled in crevice of her down comforter at full power. She will smoke a two AA light that has Nicads running at 1.3 instead of 1.5 volts when I drop a pair that are rated 3,000 milliamps but my charging has them closer to 3,500 milliamps or happen to have dropped a new set of lithiums in it and left it on for hours.

I can make holders with resistors to put some batteries in and "lie" to the charger and safely charge Sirefires and get maximum reserve out of them and maximum charge cycles. Three of the night vision scopes I have are military Armasights converted to AA batteries then sold on civilian market. One is the Amasight Gen 2+ HD clip on that sells for $2,499 to $2,999 based on vendor. Its owner put two Walmart AA alkelines in holder, turned it on and was playing with it till it "shut off" and he assumed batteries had run out of power as had it on a long time. Batteries overheated, ruptured and filled the battery compartment with acid and rebranded "manufacturer" said it was his fault for putting 19 cent batteries in a $3,000 night vision device. Same man has given me five devices to repair of which he let me keep three as replaced with Gen 3s and ran off external power packs. He gets a device, has big packs of cheapest alkalines made for his kids to use in toys and shoves them in new night vision.

Took me an afternoon to disassemble, get swollen batteries out, clean battery housing and also go into power supply using chemicals to neutralize any acid that may have gotten in device, installed a pair of lithium AAs and it was perfect. Had a $2,499 receipt in the box as he gets good prices for being a frequent buyer and when went to return the next day he said had a Gen 3 clip on overnighted and to keep it. I have it a 4x Gen 2+ CGT and 6x Gen 2+ WP both 64 lpi and the clip on he messed up with cheap batteries and when I fixed let me keep. I also fixed a monocular he let me keep but the two pair of dual tube NOGs he messed up when repaired he took them back. Have told him if doesn't put cheap batteries in his problems will go away but says if buys good batteries his kids use them all and leave him the cheap alkalines.

What I use for charging my Surefires123s (with some modifications) but reccomend to most use the charger they sell so if have issues they can't say your fault for using wrong charger. Unless you can't afford $4.99 two packs of 123s would not go this route except for "survival reasons". I like having a few dozen rechargeable 123s in case SHTF and the 200 to 300 name brand lithium 123as I have start dying from people on watch having to use N.V. every night can roll to the rechargeables or more likely use external battery packs I build myself. For inexpensive weapons lights the Surefires are fine which is what I use them in often enough to get a discharge/charge cycle in as if just sit unused will die. We use hundreds of Nicads but if a device is over $1,000 to replace it gets name brand, proper size lithiums till SHTF and have to do something different when Chinese stop shipping weapons accessory batteries to the U.S.


The DRAGON VP4 Plus is the flagship charger from Xtar. This premium four-bay lithium ion smart battery charger has selective output current through four independent channels as well as a balance connector for a LiPo pack.
  • LCD display shows status of charge as voltage for each channel
  • Analyze the usage of Li-ion and NiMh cells with TEST mode
  • Eliminate NiMh memory effects with REFRESH mode
  • Compatible with all sizes of cylindrical lithium-ion batteries ranging from 10440 to 32650
  • 0V activation can bring dead batteries back to life
  • Automatically detects battery power status and selects the appropriate voltage and charge mode
  • Automatically stops when charging is complete and prevents batteries from being over-charged
  • Features reverse polarity protection if you accidentally insert a battery the wrong way
  • Capable of charging 4 cells, an 11.1V battery pack and USB devices all at the same time!
Comparable With:
  • Lithium Ion/IMR/INR/ICR: 10440, 14500, 14650, 16340, 17335, 17500, 17670, 18350, 18490, 18500, 18650, 18700, 20700, 21700, 22650, 25500, 26650, 32650
  • 1.2V NiMh/NiCd: AAAA / AAA/ AA / A / SC / C / D
  • 11.V/3S: LiPo battery packs
 

KoKodog

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well I just got a email for sale prices on cr123a batteries

order a 50 count bulk pack (Titanium brand) for $50.00 and get free shipping, that's a buck a piece

 

hueyville

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Note in my wall of text I pay $1.49 each for "name brand" will look into your link and figure out who makes that brand if possible. I regularly see "no name" lithium CR123s for 99 cents in bulk packs but I like my name brands for an extra fifty cents if one happens to overheat and rupture, may get help, maybe not. Probably replace the battery that busted but have never had an issue and have some over ten years old just are hot as when purchased as remove from my rotating inventory. Use oldest first and should have five or more years of lithiums when grid fails forever.

In my recent battery purchase I ordered two packs (twelve per pack) of Energizer Lithium CR123s. Unfortunately Batteries Plus where I have a dealer account does not sell Eneloop or Panasonic batteries. They sell PowerEx which are good but I actually prefer the standard Eneloop over the Eneloop Pros because of their 2,20 rated recharge cycles compared to 1,200 for the Pros and though I get decades out of batteries now I can get the voltage and amp ratings up on the standard Eneloops almost to what the Pros have with proper break in and cycling.

Next time I am in Batteries Plus will pick up a dozen or so of every flavor PowerEx. All get dated when purchased so if something changes in which holds most voltage/amperage over time can watch for trends. Never know when one company may make a significant change to chemistry that changes the game. I also need some more rechargeable alkelines with full 1.5 volts but if get three to five years out of rechargeable alkelines am lucky. Then I have my LiPo's and other chemistries use for specific applications.
 

hueyville

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The new Maha/PowerEx charger arrived Wednesday and put four old 2001 purchased Kodak 1.2V 2,000 mah nicads in it that no charger I had would charge. Keep a box that as a battery dies put date of it's death on masking tape (already have date purchased on cell as mark them all) and these were purchased with two Kodak 2.1 Megapixel Easy share digitals for my crews. We take at least two pictures of every completed job as neighbors will steal real estate signs (especially large tracts afraid developer may buy for subdivision) before we are out of sight so have to prove we did our part and having two to three crews out every day with film cameras set up with time stamps was ten or more rolls of 36 exposure film processed per week. 2.1 MP digital was enough resolution of a picture and time stamp provided clients with photos of completed job if sign disappeared before they saw it.

Even the Maha/PowerEx smart chargers this new unit replaced would not recover the cheap Chinese rechargable AAs that came with the cameras 22/23 years ago. Just got error messages no matter what mode I used. Have eight of these batteries that all died from 13 to 17 years after purchase. Put first gang of four in, pressed refresh then the second group of four. It recovered two of each group just running a refresh cycle and not tried any other like multi-cycling, break-in cycle, total discharge then force charging them in a charger I use to brute force batteries. From totally dead living in the can't get 0.1 volt or 1 man out much less energy to run a remote (all my old nicads that have lost much of their reserve energy to in television, surround sound, DVD, etc remotes as takes very little energy to run them) or other low drain device.

Four of eight batteries with death dates over five years ago to come back like this and bet if try some other modes with new charger will get another couple to come back to life. Have another box of dead rechargable batteries friends give me as know I will take any battery and at least dispose of properly to mining for chemicals or refresh and use them. First is the battery with lowest volt/amp recovery. Got full voltage and 75% reserve amps. Majority were in the 1.3V and 1,750 mah range.

MahaCharger001.jpg

MahaCharger002.jpg

This one and another came back a bit beyond their 1.2V 2,000 mah rating from 2001. Pushing Nicads up to 1.4 volts is normally difficult and had this at 1.39V and 2017 mah, another at 1.35V and 1,994 mah. If get half the dead nicads in my box recovered that's a big number for use in low drain, non mission critical devices. Will see how I fare in other modes once I see how many will come back with an easy push of the refresh button.

MahaCharger003.jpg

MahaCharger004.jpg
 
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hueyville

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Maha MH-C9000PRO


Make sure to read the instructions in full and go to some electronic geek groups to learn what all it does and best way to obtain desired results. Buying Japanese or American (if can find any) batteries will give much better results than Chinese batteries.

If need to keep a lot of batteries charged this is good but NEVER use it's Turbo Fast Charge mode. Faster you charge a battery the more you damage it. I have killed good batteries in a one month trip to South America or Europe using fast chargers, especially DC to DC fast car chargers that run off a 12V power port.

 
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hueyville

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I got a notice from REI my $150ish rebate check on purchases is expiring December 31 so went looking on their website and found this for $599 with a 20% off code to use at checkout. $599 minus $120 instant savings plus my dividend check brings this to under $350 if pick up at REI on way home from my knee surgery Monday. A dedicated system for charging and running small electronic devices, is full sine wave output so won't harm sensitive electronics like cheap invertors or mid priced modified square wave inverters (modified square wave are o.k. for many applications but expensive/sensitive prefer full sine) can especially if use a lot.

Plan to set solar panel on deck to keep it topped off then run my battery chargers, tablet and charge phone in master bedroom. Grid up or down won't matter, this should keep most running and if single panel doesn't keep it topped off can buy another 50 watt panel or 100 watt panel that are "plug and play". For just over $200 you can get the 200 watt version and $1,200 the 1,500 watt version that will run a small air conditioner, microwave or refrigerator. Then can bump up to grid tie units that attach to your electrical panel. Solar is getting so easy and energy dense gasoline generators are just going to be to help keep up during short winter and long periods of rainy days.


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This can run two standard USB, two USB C devices, a 12v power port and two 120v devices like my smart chargers. Makes my battery power devices "zero carbon footprint" devices to make up for all my guns with some of the hippie tree hugger crowd.

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hueyville

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Found this generator which is a bit short on watts for my 10,000 goal but at 9,200 continuous with 11,250 peak and other features like price of $649 to my door with three year warranty it's hard to resist but have to decide this week as they are trying to help me out and in turn I will promote them if all goes well with transaction, shipping and it running as advertised.

Generac GP9200E Generator 9200W/11250W Gas Electric Start with COsense Technology.
COsense® Technology – STOPS, ALERTS, SAVES. Powerful protection​
against hazardous carbon monoxide.​
 Push Button Electric Start with auto-choke provides reliable, hassle free start-​
ups (battery included).​
PowerRush™ Advanced Technology delivers over 30% more starting
capacity allowing you to do more with less.*
 Generac's OHV engine with pressurized lubrication provides a long engine life.​
 Low-oil pressure shutdown automatically safeguards engine from damage.​
 Large-capacity steel fuel tank with incorporated fuel gauge provides durability​
and up to an 8.5 hour run-time at 50% load.​
 1 ¼” steel-tube cradle for added durability and strength.​
 Hour Meter tracks maintenance intervals.​
 Heavy-duty, never-flat wheels allow for easy portability.​
 Fold-down locking handle for sturdy portability and compact storage.​
 HomeLink™ manual transfer switch compatible for safe home backup power.​
*Increases electrical current upon demand; above rated output when starting electric motors.

Spent a good deal of time on phone with representative whose name was given to me by a local Generac whole house backup dealer and installer. Owner called his rep and told him had seen my current setup after running into two generators out in the field I installed. Owners called him to come "fix" their generators after letting them sit for past two years with gas turned on and carburetors were full of shellac (normally I do a service call each fall checking battery, clean carb, change oil and filters thus never have issues) but two years out of work and the lazy folks are now calling the only Authorized Generac on site repairman in town. Told everyone have installed generators for that I know are lazy to go check oil level then crank them as this was going to be third year without service. Two had not turned gas off since ice storm winter before last so needed a carb kit and cleaning. He was impressed with how I installed their portable generators in a manner that if they followed directions on signs I install in "generator sheds" and electrical panels would be like me running my generator thirty years later without issues. Two didn't follow directions.

He was impressed how I got a 10,000 watt generators installed without transfer switch, in enclosure with cement floor, wired to electrical panel and all for $2,000 parts, $500 labor max. Asked if I wanted more customers but to charge more and give him a $100 referral fee. Said he could not install without transfer switches and all the bling that starts at $7,000 and goes up all said and done. Said lots of people out there he visits can't afford his services and not lose his Generac dealership installing undersize units or no transfer switch plus inspector would fail him. Says I could help them way I operate. He has a $2,000 7,500 watt continuous automatic machine in his line but when tells people will not pull their heat pump plus has $1,000 more in install they back up. Said cheapest whole house that will pull a heat pump and a few other items starts at $5,000 plus installation and more need the $7,000 machine than the $5,000.

I give client list of items to be delivered by Lowes, I lay out 12"×12" cement pavers after level up ground a bit, assemble one of Lowes "snap together" outdoor storage closets, line with layer of fire resistant/sound reduction insulation, set generator inside and wire to a 30 amp 240V breaker put "lockout tag" on and hang key to breaker on door of panel. Clients power dies they open panel (have big label inside and outside of door with instructions. 1. Turn off main breakers which I label well. 2. Go outside to shack and follow directions. 3. After returning from shack ensuring mains are off remove lock from 30 amp breaker and turn it on. While in little garden closets from Lowes they are supposed to turn gas on to carburetor, press start button, go back inside and wait two minutes for generator to warm up before energize house. It all looks professional and is rock solid if follow instructions like "turn off fuel and let generator run till sputters then turn off power switch". Ensures enough gas burns in carb it does no shellac and they turn breakers off in shed and house before turn mains back on. Amazing how a few skip the "turn off gas and wait till sputters" because it's cold so if I dont show up each fall carbs gum up.

He came to my house yesterday and was stunned how much I am running off my generator but told him I know ohms law so only run HVAC, television and maximum of two or three LED lights. I normally have clients buy a 10,500 watt minimum with 12,500 watt surge to a 13,000 or 15,000 watt Generac based on house. He said over half the clients he sees cant afford his cheapest system Generac will allow for square footage and leaves an elderly couple whom an afford $2,500 and follow my explicit instructions so do not fire electric range and heat pump at same time and kill one of the appliances or generator but will never afford his $7,000 (average minimum) option and up.

Told me he would refer those clients to me if I referred him for annual service or repairs if skip service. I do a generator install in a day and charge $500 for my work. Client buys all materials, arranges for delivery and if have warranty issue handle themselves. Above generator is just 800 watts shy of what I wanted for continuous and 250 watts shy of my minimum wanted for surge. Generator man and sales rep both said this machines "PowerRush™ Advanced Technology delivers over 30% more starting capacity allowing you to do more with less" acts more like a 12,500 watt peak machine.

We did some handshaking (machine I am buying is a return that was never taken out of box but all returns must go back to Generac not on the sales floor) so they can test and ensure a bad machine someone fried does not get out and cause reputation issues. Rep said if had been fueled and cranked but hour meter still read zero when came in. Said they do more testing to returns than new machines and meter reads one hour. I can buy on the guy made deal to give him my generator clients wanting big systems and he will refer all who cant accord Generac whole house natural gas or propane automatic machines and I could buy an occasional machine on his account.

I can get above machine cor $649 delivered to my door on liftgate truck with three year warranty if agree by close of business (central time) tomorrow. My only issue is the 240V plug is 30 amp and I wanted 50 amp. To get 50 amp have to almost double my money and get 13,500 or more than double to get a 15,000 watt continuous machine. Not worked in two years, a new machine with 1,200 more continuous and 1,250 more surge than have for half my intended budget is very tempting with winter coming on. Can sell my 5,500 watt continuous machine at end of winter for almost enough to cover cost of new or possibly enough to completely cover cost of the new machine if we have a good i e storm this winter, Lowes/Home Depot sell out and someone wants a name brand generator bad. My 5,500 watt 7,000 peak looks brand new so may sell strong to someone in the dark. Thoughts?
 
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hueyville

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Just got off phone with Generac tech support. As mentioned above was told running too large generator so have enough amps for start-up of say HVAC, freezer and refrigerator all deciding to cycle at same time if running for days on end when it's just lugging along waiting for something big to start up we get potential "wet stacking" as mentioned above. I have a parallel kit for my two small inverter generators but requires they be same size and model. Two 2,200 continuous/2,800 watt peak units with pairing kit are a lot easier to move than my 5,500 continuous/7,850 peak machine or 8,000 watt continuous/10,000 peak which runs house fine in winter but until installed hard start kit in condenser for compressor, fan plus can in air handler it didn't like A/C mode start up. Been really looking for a 10,000 watt minimum continuous unit at deal but had no luck but found a Generac 9,200 watt continuous/11,250 peak factory refurb with three hours on meter. They said it arrived as a return to major home improvement center after two days with buyer claiming didn't run correct and 2 hours on meter.

Have known people myself that go buy semi expensive tools they need but don't want to rent, use till job is done and return for full refund. When they come back factory does more testing on a return than new model and records on machine bought show it rolled over from two to three hours on meter while being tested and it exceeded all specifications. Unlike some companies that will call a 9,500 watt actual continuous output machine 10,000 watt model Generac would call it a 9,200 watt continous model so not overselling their equipment. When talked with refurb sales rep (very knowledgeable) when mentioned wanted their next bigger machine which leaps to 15,000 watts and more than doubles in price he said too big if not running it at least 50% capacity all the time can hurt a bigger machine not pulling enough out of it and suggested pairing. Told him had a pairing kit for my (non Generac) 2,200 watt inverter machines and had to both be inverter and same size but he said not so for bigger machines.

Tech support told me can pair five machines of different sizes or same size and suggested pairing. Told them I had a 5,500/6,850, 8,000/10,000 and the new GP9200E coming t ch got giddy. He had me get model and serial numbers of existing machines and pulled what needed from sales order on new. Said they could build me a kit that would pair all three, run machine best suited for continuous draw which at night likely be my smallest machine till thermostat turns on HVAC. Says kit senses the required new draw and fires up a second or all three. Says kit has basic learning and may run two smaller machines continuous so when HVAC starts in A/C mode it's got ability to supply all the peak watts needed then once load stabilizes fire up biggest machine and shut down two smaller units. Says it will try to keep load spread and not run any single machine 24/7 if able to give each a rest period. 5,500, 8,000 and 9,200 machines would have some voltage loss in the pairing (know all about loss in undersize or ovedsize wire and circuitry, etc) but easily have 22,000 continuous watts if all are running and 28,000 peak wats for round numbers and if one generator dies or just runs out of fuel the kit detects it's down and does it's best to manage load with most efficiency on the two still running.

He said would likely be surprised how often only machine running will be the 5,500 watt smallest and even suggested if wanted to put a fourth smaller machine for when only draw is my BiPAP, alarm panel and video cameras. I don't want to add a smaller machine but if their pairing kit to run my three units together is fairly priced it's a stunning idea and don't have to worry about generator running low on fuel or blowing a fuse in middle of night or lack of power in high draw applications. Ability to have automated choice of 5,500 to 22,000 continuous watts 8,000 or 9,200 or whatever combination switch calls for sounds perfect. He even suggested cancelling the order for the GP9200E and using that money to pair my 5,500 and 8,000 then pocket some extra cash but got such a deal in the new machine, others are 30 and 20 years old a new machine is a good idea as if lasts long as the others should outlast me. I have always known about pairing, known people who paired odd size and brand machines but didn't want to risk it going south on me after SHTF but a kit built by Generac specifically for my machines down to model and serial number makes me confident.
 
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