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EMP update
- Thread starter C2A1
- Start date
Story
Well-known member
Remember this - you still make more sense than a bunch of the asshats posting on here these days.
Keep broadcasting in the clear, we're listening.
Owners of house two doors down have become acquaintances. Bought the house at what thought was fair price from children of owners who both passed of old age. Did a remodel, landscaping and now have over $400,000 that highest offer thus far has been $299,000 because its a "lakeview no dock" instead of "lakefront with dock" a dock that meets code adds $150,000 around us, dock that doesn't meet code subtract cost to bring dock to code and "lakefront dock permissible" adds $50,000 to $100,000. They finished their remodel over three years ago and after a year put renters in it who after they evicted six months later had to remodel again. Decided to leave empty and wait then squatters moved in and another eviction followed by remodel.
I was doing their locksmith work for cost of materials to be a "good neighbor" after the first remodel as wife was hanging out visiting with the wife while her husband ran subcontract crews through three remodels. We now keep an eye on the house to point of having one of our cameras recording most of the front yard on DVR and I have a radio frequency alert seismic sensor as don't want squatters moving in two doors from me. We talk at least every six to eight weeks so was not a surprise to see their home number pop up on our caller I.D. about an hour ago.
They bought their daughter a 2020 Jeep Rubicon when graduated high school, who came home for the weekend. Needs to be on her way to school but has locked her keys in the Jeep. Asked me if I could unlock it and told them without a diagram and programmed fob and not going to risk doing $1,5000 damage to door lock as not familiar with these late model vehicles, don't know if best to go through front, rear doors or hatch. Also reminded them have been on medical "house arrest" for past year and don't fel up to driving a half hour each way to look at it and not even try when looked at it.
I watch lots of MotorTrend TV and all the shows like CarFix, HotRod Garage and others are always dealing with electrical issues on late model Rubicons. Asked whee their spare key was and she told me when bought the vehicle dealer wanted $200 for a second key and fob programmed. Said they found spare key on Amazon for $29 but have never had it programmed cause dealer said they only program OEM keys and just not gone to a locksmith. have seen so many folks dead in the water because battery died in fob, key or RFID chip got scrambled. Wife and I are bad about locking keys in vehicles but have AAA and just make a call then locksmith shows up at no cost usually in 20 to 30 minutes.
Suggested she call AAA but she says they don't subscribe as their insurance offers towing, tire changes and lockouts but discovered today have to meet their $250 deductible to use it. I have carried AAA for over 30 years and didn't change flat tires even before I jacked up my spine, just call AAA. Got call on job site in NC my dad had heart attack, was on way to hospital and unresponsive. I threw tools in truck, took off back toward Georgia in a hurry and panic never thinking about fuel till ran out of gas at bottom of hill on Hwy 64. Had to walk almost a mile to get a cell signal but AAA got a truck to me within minutes of getting back to my truck and they poured in ten gallons and said get to the hospital.
As complicated as new vehicles are ifs why my 1993 Dakota and 1997 Ram still sit as spares plus have a 1956 Harley with magneto that doesn't even require a battery. They have a late model vehicle with reputation for electrical issues, already been in shop for such and don't have a spare key and fob programmed??? I keep a couple spare CR2022 button batteries in my wallet just for key fobs. Have two trucks and two motorcycles if battery goes dead in fob they wont crank. Have three spare key sets for everything, wife keeps sets, I keep sets and have third set in our small upstairs vault. Saw show yesterday on Jeep Rubicons and other late model Hemi vehicles and most won't crank if battery voltage drops below ten volts under load of starter. Either keep a sharp battery or they lay down.
Told her being a certified master locksmith (took a couple years to go from locksmith to journeyman then master) and do all sort of electrical locks, pass cards and such won't try to get in my own vehicle if lock keys in. Call AAA and wait, my field locksmith kit is sitting in garage and she even offered me $1000 cash to run up to their house but not having Jeep dealer tell them tomorrow there is some $500 gizmo shorted in door and looks like hillbilly that opened it damaged it. Don't have enough sense to have a second key for teen daughters car or AAA have little sympathy. Another few years and it won't take an EMP to stop majority of cars on the road but a shortage of CR2022 button batteries.
My new truck has five ECUs on firewall under hood and two more computer modules under different trim pieces in cab. Just a low battery will likely strand it and an impulse kill it forever. Suggested she just wait for Jeep dealer to open in morning and spend $2000 for an OEM key and fob but says its too much, can't wait to hear how much an locksmith charges to do on weekend but my guess is they will just pay to have door opened, skip programming their $29 Amazon key and daughter will be in this situation some Friday night in the parking lot of a bar in Athens.
Spare key for everything we on in console of my truck and console of wife's truck so if one locks themself out and closer than AAA we can come unlock the other. All or motorcycles have two spare CR2022s after wife's bike refused to start on Blue Ridge Parkway when battery crapped out in fob. Did give me another opportunity to see if they were considering our last offer on their house that now sat without selling or rental income for over three years. Mentioned home prices are dropping as demand drops and sits much longer will new fresh paint inside and out. EMP is a one time event that might happen, daily costs in the millions of dollars to keep these new vehicles moving is going to break many households.
$90,000 Jeep that won't move for lack of a programmed key. I am already looking at aftermarket ECUs for my truck, several companies are making "unlocked", user programmable engine, transmission and other ECUs for my new truck. Thinking having under back seat may be a good idea along with having a second battery installed under the hood, has the attachment points and dealer sells/installs the kit. Soon as warranty expires swap the performance ECUs in and put the factory units under back seat for getting me home.
I was doing their locksmith work for cost of materials to be a "good neighbor" after the first remodel as wife was hanging out visiting with the wife while her husband ran subcontract crews through three remodels. We now keep an eye on the house to point of having one of our cameras recording most of the front yard on DVR and I have a radio frequency alert seismic sensor as don't want squatters moving in two doors from me. We talk at least every six to eight weeks so was not a surprise to see their home number pop up on our caller I.D. about an hour ago.
They bought their daughter a 2020 Jeep Rubicon when graduated high school, who came home for the weekend. Needs to be on her way to school but has locked her keys in the Jeep. Asked me if I could unlock it and told them without a diagram and programmed fob and not going to risk doing $1,5000 damage to door lock as not familiar with these late model vehicles, don't know if best to go through front, rear doors or hatch. Also reminded them have been on medical "house arrest" for past year and don't fel up to driving a half hour each way to look at it and not even try when looked at it.
I watch lots of MotorTrend TV and all the shows like CarFix, HotRod Garage and others are always dealing with electrical issues on late model Rubicons. Asked whee their spare key was and she told me when bought the vehicle dealer wanted $200 for a second key and fob programmed. Said they found spare key on Amazon for $29 but have never had it programmed cause dealer said they only program OEM keys and just not gone to a locksmith. have seen so many folks dead in the water because battery died in fob, key or RFID chip got scrambled. Wife and I are bad about locking keys in vehicles but have AAA and just make a call then locksmith shows up at no cost usually in 20 to 30 minutes.
Suggested she call AAA but she says they don't subscribe as their insurance offers towing, tire changes and lockouts but discovered today have to meet their $250 deductible to use it. I have carried AAA for over 30 years and didn't change flat tires even before I jacked up my spine, just call AAA. Got call on job site in NC my dad had heart attack, was on way to hospital and unresponsive. I threw tools in truck, took off back toward Georgia in a hurry and panic never thinking about fuel till ran out of gas at bottom of hill on Hwy 64. Had to walk almost a mile to get a cell signal but AAA got a truck to me within minutes of getting back to my truck and they poured in ten gallons and said get to the hospital.
As complicated as new vehicles are ifs why my 1993 Dakota and 1997 Ram still sit as spares plus have a 1956 Harley with magneto that doesn't even require a battery. They have a late model vehicle with reputation for electrical issues, already been in shop for such and don't have a spare key and fob programmed??? I keep a couple spare CR2022 button batteries in my wallet just for key fobs. Have two trucks and two motorcycles if battery goes dead in fob they wont crank. Have three spare key sets for everything, wife keeps sets, I keep sets and have third set in our small upstairs vault. Saw show yesterday on Jeep Rubicons and other late model Hemi vehicles and most won't crank if battery voltage drops below ten volts under load of starter. Either keep a sharp battery or they lay down.
Told her being a certified master locksmith (took a couple years to go from locksmith to journeyman then master) and do all sort of electrical locks, pass cards and such won't try to get in my own vehicle if lock keys in. Call AAA and wait, my field locksmith kit is sitting in garage and she even offered me $1000 cash to run up to their house but not having Jeep dealer tell them tomorrow there is some $500 gizmo shorted in door and looks like hillbilly that opened it damaged it. Don't have enough sense to have a second key for teen daughters car or AAA have little sympathy. Another few years and it won't take an EMP to stop majority of cars on the road but a shortage of CR2022 button batteries.
My new truck has five ECUs on firewall under hood and two more computer modules under different trim pieces in cab. Just a low battery will likely strand it and an impulse kill it forever. Suggested she just wait for Jeep dealer to open in morning and spend $2000 for an OEM key and fob but says its too much, can't wait to hear how much an locksmith charges to do on weekend but my guess is they will just pay to have door opened, skip programming their $29 Amazon key and daughter will be in this situation some Friday night in the parking lot of a bar in Athens.
Spare key for everything we on in console of my truck and console of wife's truck so if one locks themself out and closer than AAA we can come unlock the other. All or motorcycles have two spare CR2022s after wife's bike refused to start on Blue Ridge Parkway when battery crapped out in fob. Did give me another opportunity to see if they were considering our last offer on their house that now sat without selling or rental income for over three years. Mentioned home prices are dropping as demand drops and sits much longer will new fresh paint inside and out. EMP is a one time event that might happen, daily costs in the millions of dollars to keep these new vehicles moving is going to break many households.
$90,000 Jeep that won't move for lack of a programmed key. I am already looking at aftermarket ECUs for my truck, several companies are making "unlocked", user programmable engine, transmission and other ECUs for my new truck. Thinking having under back seat may be a good idea along with having a second battery installed under the hood, has the attachment points and dealer sells/installs the kit. Soon as warranty expires swap the performance ECUs in and put the factory units under back seat for getting me home.
Abominog
Well-known member
Impressive, finished after his death? I worry now that the momentum will be lost without him.
Story
Well-known member
Abominog
Well-known member
because even our leftist government has now had to admit Pry was right.
He is ex-CIA and well vetted in "the community". Found him a while back and going through a lot of his videos on his channels and others. Several well vetted former SEALs and Deltas invite him to discuss issues on their channels, especially their "pay for view". He has a very unique way for breaking down events and backtracking why or how. Anything on China and he immediately goes to their 5,000 year history and how consistent their psychological profile has been that long. He does a stunning job of breaking down the Russians and Ukraine situation and why we are keeping that fueled.
I like his opinions of EDC. Cash and a baton as a gun will get you in prison for life in many countries and most a $100 USD bill will get you out of a lot or away from it. Reccomends smaller denominations for getting someone to get you across the river from say Thailand to Cambodia or Burma, that's a $20 to $50 favor and don't over spend or show too much resource. In Switzerland probably better to have a mix of Swiss Fracs and Euros but a $100 USD bill will still work though first world countries says favors are costing $200 to $500 now. He seems to have a lot of intel on The Thai, Vietnam, Cambodia, China, etc areas. Lots of good tips I have used traveling the planet in areas where its just me, a knife and some cash to get home alive.
He gives a lot of advice on low tech ways and common items that one can use for weapons to collecting intelligence. He will not speak much about technology but what he shares is good. I have acquired one item he speaks of and was not as hard to get as I expected but I am a certified master locksmith. When I was down from 2007 thru 2010 began taking online courses and then proctored tests. Its how I got my EPA Universal License for MVAC and HVAC, GROL. Radar Endorsement, Basic Locksmith, Journeyman and then Master. Picked up over fifty state and federal trade licenses during that time and during this medical time out have taken any refresher courses required on those licenses and another couple dozen. Its amazing what all one can study for online then go take a test at an official proctored location and walk off with a federal license in anything from explosives to telecom systems.
Much of his info is common sense but when I was travelling a lot in Equidor, Columbia, Peru and Bolivia then Europe and Asia learned through experience a lot of his tips. Many a time encountered Shining Path rebels or cocaine cowboys and was able to navigate the threat and keep on our path without harm. $100 USD and mostly not appearing to be a threat was a huge key. He recommends you have to always look like what you say you are. Why would a mountain climber need a gun or military clothing? Look like a tourist which is sandals and a drink in your hand. If backpacking a well used backpack and long hair is the normal look. He knows his world history from ancient to very latest well.
I like his opinions of EDC. Cash and a baton as a gun will get you in prison for life in many countries and most a $100 USD bill will get you out of a lot or away from it. Reccomends smaller denominations for getting someone to get you across the river from say Thailand to Cambodia or Burma, that's a $20 to $50 favor and don't over spend or show too much resource. In Switzerland probably better to have a mix of Swiss Fracs and Euros but a $100 USD bill will still work though first world countries says favors are costing $200 to $500 now. He seems to have a lot of intel on The Thai, Vietnam, Cambodia, China, etc areas. Lots of good tips I have used traveling the planet in areas where its just me, a knife and some cash to get home alive.
He gives a lot of advice on low tech ways and common items that one can use for weapons to collecting intelligence. He will not speak much about technology but what he shares is good. I have acquired one item he speaks of and was not as hard to get as I expected but I am a certified master locksmith. When I was down from 2007 thru 2010 began taking online courses and then proctored tests. Its how I got my EPA Universal License for MVAC and HVAC, GROL. Radar Endorsement, Basic Locksmith, Journeyman and then Master. Picked up over fifty state and federal trade licenses during that time and during this medical time out have taken any refresher courses required on those licenses and another couple dozen. Its amazing what all one can study for online then go take a test at an official proctored location and walk off with a federal license in anything from explosives to telecom systems.
Much of his info is common sense but when I was travelling a lot in Equidor, Columbia, Peru and Bolivia then Europe and Asia learned through experience a lot of his tips. Many a time encountered Shining Path rebels or cocaine cowboys and was able to navigate the threat and keep on our path without harm. $100 USD and mostly not appearing to be a threat was a huge key. He recommends you have to always look like what you say you are. Why would a mountain climber need a gun or military clothing? Look like a tourist which is sandals and a drink in your hand. If backpacking a well used backpack and long hair is the normal look. He knows his world history from ancient to very latest well.
- FALaholic #
- 15514
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2004
- Posts
- 5,560
Getting Tommy weekly report in here. I way been off-line for 5 months but good stuff going on. Any way. Here is a good one, he reported to Epoch times.
www.theepochtimes.com
How Communist China Could Imminently Cripple America’s Electric Grid: Tommy Waller
The U.S. electricity grid is critically dependent on extra-high-voltage transformers made in China, says Tommy Waller, President of the Center for Security...
www.theepochtimes.com
Story
Well-known member
- FALaholic #
- 15514
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2004
- Posts
- 5,560
These have been tested. You may want to give these a try. ( not part of the company).
https://www.5minreview.com/truth-about-emp-protection#:~:text=To summarize our due diligence, EMP Shield is,Shield will actually work and isn't a scam.
https://www.5minreview.com/truth-about-emp-protection#:~:text=To summarize our due diligence, EMP Shield is,Shield will actually work and isn't a scam.
FIANNAFAL
Well-known member
As a electronic tech I can follow and u nderstand most of these post.
My question is about mylar shipping material. Would wrapping equipment in this material help.
I have had large electronic control boxs covered in this stuff. Past job and still have a good bit of it.
Maybe if placed in ground
trash can.
If I had extra fals with aimpoimts or eotech , they would fit nicely.
Posted for the benefit of my cyber stalkers.
My question is about mylar shipping material. Would wrapping equipment in this material help.
I have had large electronic control boxs covered in this stuff. Past job and still have a good bit of it.
Maybe if placed in ground
trash can.
If I had extra fals with aimpoimts or eotech , they would fit nicely.
Posted for the benefit of my cyber stalkers.
- FALaholic #
- 15514
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2004
- Posts
- 5,560
Mylar bags are very useful in storage stuff. Old EMP guy put his electronic in mylar bags. Just may sure it is close tight ( Laser diodes bags have the seal.) Leaving stuff in a Trash can with foil or Mylar in also successful.
A microwave would be useful. Is it radio proof on all the wavelengths? Not sure!
A microwave would be useful. Is it radio proof on all the wavelengths? Not sure!
Going to stick this here since this started as a near tragic incident this past Sunday. About noon noticed house was getting hot and assumed wife was having cold chills from a half dozen ice packs on all the joints that hurt or she adjusted the thermostat without putting her glasses on which can result in anything from suffering heat to a mini ice age occuring in the house. Went to check thermostat and she had it set on 76° but it was reading 80° with warm air coming out of registers. Swapped batteries in thermostat first as sometimes if get weak it acts silly. Next went downstairs and reset the system but after a few minutes checked thermostat and house was 81°. Start with the easy stuff inside first so pulled filters from fresh air intake, Aprilaire whole house air filtration and the 4" media filter in cold air return. All had date of just under six months written on ends with a Sharpie and looked clean. Pulled cover off A-Coil to see if condensate was stopped up and flooding in A-coil had caused an issue but it was dry as a bone, too dry and still had plenty of condensate cleaner cake in it so checked the condensate pump and then control board for errors codes as was 94% with 90% humidity and going outside was last thing wanted to do.
Called two reputable local HVAC companies to see what they charge for an emergency call these days (still didn't want to go outside) to get $200 quote from one and $250 quote from other just to show up and diagnose issue. Said then it was $150 per hour labor plus parts of they had them on truck. Put on my desert cooling shirt made to wear under body armor or without but is very thin and as wicks water away it gives some cooling effect along with a pair of summer weight ACU fatigues and loaded my pockets with hand tools plus grabbed a Fluke multimeter and a Fluke clamp meter. Pulled the cover off the condenser unit electronics and almost flipped out when saw the ComfortAir diagnostic module had no lights. No power, no fault or flashing trouble codes so turned power back on and had 240 volts going into contactor. Manually reset contactor and it locked up for a second then I had to hold it closed to keep power past it and the diagnostic module still had zero LEDs lit and meter said it was getting power so began to suspect the worst but began with the basics.
Turned power off, discharged the capacitor (a 45/5) then used my little tool to unplug HERM, Fan and common. Set meter to test and capacitor was dead as hammer which I assumed was going to just be one of two or three issues. Read some info on the diagnostic module to learn if it got signal to turn on then off in less than 2.5 minutes three times in short period it would go loopy. Installed a capacitor, somehow the only 45/5 was way too big to fit in it's holder so stuck a 40/5 in and had 50/5s and all sizes including hard starts you can run in tandem with primary capacitor on a aging compressor that needs more power to start and is safer than just sticking a bigger capacitor in. Hooked up my wires, turned on power and diagnostic module came to life and compressor started up. Watched it a few minutes and after about 90 seconds the contactor opened for about two seconds then closed again starting compressor again. Ran about two minutes and repeated so realized it was tired too so shut it all down and got correct contactor out of my box of assorted contactors.
With the new capacitor and contactor it fired up and kept running as thermostat was up to 84° and was set at 76° so was going to take a while to cool the house. Much as I needed in from heat as meds taking make me sick when hot got a couple of thermostats to drop in registers at each end of house, device that measures how much air flow is coming through registers (an HVAC annenometer) and a set of gauges for 410a (can you believe EPA has already scheduled phase out of 410a in 2023 so price will double then quadruple) and then did the entire routine of checking pressures along with subheat and supercool. I service my HVAC regularly (BTW both companies said while here would service for an additional $60 plus cost of filter) so everything was in specifications and house was cooling quickly. Got my tools gathered, covers put back on everything, took a cold shower and figured I saved myself $350 or more as tech may have tried to say the diagnostic module was dead. Have the correct physical size 45/5 (actually two on order) plus a contactor to replace the one I removed from box of those parts. It kicked my butt being in heat so long and when I got clean & happy wife let me order $400 more of the LEO trade in ammo been buying from one of my vendors at Trump prices. $15 per box for premium 38 special, 40 Smith, 45 acp and 68 grain 5.56 Match. Just ordered $1,000 of it a few days earlier arrived yesterday but if wife is happy enough about HVAC running to put another $400 in commercial ammo in hoarding lockers may as well.
Everyone should have a box of medium size household capacitors (actually from small electronics to big commercial units probably have over 2,000 capacitors in house).
Had to move my small/medium locksmith kit to get to it.
Didn't take picture of big box of household contactors but it's same size as the capacitor box. Have more of both at work plus a second and third set of HVAC tools. Have a 30 pound cylinder of R410a at house and work plus two 30 pound cylinders of R22 at work and about twenty to thirty 12 to 14 ounce cans of R-12 which sell for over $100 per can now and before Obama and his EPA Nazis was $20 per can up from the $2.99 used to pay. When I saw it hit $14.99 per can added a half dozen cans to my old stock from when discount stores were closing it out for $1 per can.
Anything that's must have for comfort in your home have parts. Even if don't know how to test then install a capacitor and contactor look up what your outdoor condenser and indoor air handler (motor starts on fan, etc) and buy them before your stuck. Even if have to call service tech you will have your parts. I have same for my refrigerator, freezers, dehumidifiers, ham radios and about anything down to surface mount solder in units. Majority are kept in Farady boxes but have work kits I keep out handy for when need. Bet we have over 5,000 assorted resistors in the house along with desoldering and precise soldering tools, top line multimeters, occiliscopes, spectrum analyzers and more. Just the locksmith stuff being handy gets someone I know out of a jam when feel like helping. Stoopid people that don't have spare RFD chip vehicle keys I leave to a paid locksmith in case entering the vehicle smokes some $1,000 part. Will work on mine but have double spare keys in RFD chip keys.
Called two reputable local HVAC companies to see what they charge for an emergency call these days (still didn't want to go outside) to get $200 quote from one and $250 quote from other just to show up and diagnose issue. Said then it was $150 per hour labor plus parts of they had them on truck. Put on my desert cooling shirt made to wear under body armor or without but is very thin and as wicks water away it gives some cooling effect along with a pair of summer weight ACU fatigues and loaded my pockets with hand tools plus grabbed a Fluke multimeter and a Fluke clamp meter. Pulled the cover off the condenser unit electronics and almost flipped out when saw the ComfortAir diagnostic module had no lights. No power, no fault or flashing trouble codes so turned power back on and had 240 volts going into contactor. Manually reset contactor and it locked up for a second then I had to hold it closed to keep power past it and the diagnostic module still had zero LEDs lit and meter said it was getting power so began to suspect the worst but began with the basics.
Turned power off, discharged the capacitor (a 45/5) then used my little tool to unplug HERM, Fan and common. Set meter to test and capacitor was dead as hammer which I assumed was going to just be one of two or three issues. Read some info on the diagnostic module to learn if it got signal to turn on then off in less than 2.5 minutes three times in short period it would go loopy. Installed a capacitor, somehow the only 45/5 was way too big to fit in it's holder so stuck a 40/5 in and had 50/5s and all sizes including hard starts you can run in tandem with primary capacitor on a aging compressor that needs more power to start and is safer than just sticking a bigger capacitor in. Hooked up my wires, turned on power and diagnostic module came to life and compressor started up. Watched it a few minutes and after about 90 seconds the contactor opened for about two seconds then closed again starting compressor again. Ran about two minutes and repeated so realized it was tired too so shut it all down and got correct contactor out of my box of assorted contactors.
With the new capacitor and contactor it fired up and kept running as thermostat was up to 84° and was set at 76° so was going to take a while to cool the house. Much as I needed in from heat as meds taking make me sick when hot got a couple of thermostats to drop in registers at each end of house, device that measures how much air flow is coming through registers (an HVAC annenometer) and a set of gauges for 410a (can you believe EPA has already scheduled phase out of 410a in 2023 so price will double then quadruple) and then did the entire routine of checking pressures along with subheat and supercool. I service my HVAC regularly (BTW both companies said while here would service for an additional $60 plus cost of filter) so everything was in specifications and house was cooling quickly. Got my tools gathered, covers put back on everything, took a cold shower and figured I saved myself $350 or more as tech may have tried to say the diagnostic module was dead. Have the correct physical size 45/5 (actually two on order) plus a contactor to replace the one I removed from box of those parts. It kicked my butt being in heat so long and when I got clean & happy wife let me order $400 more of the LEO trade in ammo been buying from one of my vendors at Trump prices. $15 per box for premium 38 special, 40 Smith, 45 acp and 68 grain 5.56 Match. Just ordered $1,000 of it a few days earlier arrived yesterday but if wife is happy enough about HVAC running to put another $400 in commercial ammo in hoarding lockers may as well.
Everyone should have a box of medium size household capacitors (actually from small electronics to big commercial units probably have over 2,000 capacitors in house).
Had to move my small/medium locksmith kit to get to it.
Didn't take picture of big box of household contactors but it's same size as the capacitor box. Have more of both at work plus a second and third set of HVAC tools. Have a 30 pound cylinder of R410a at house and work plus two 30 pound cylinders of R22 at work and about twenty to thirty 12 to 14 ounce cans of R-12 which sell for over $100 per can now and before Obama and his EPA Nazis was $20 per can up from the $2.99 used to pay. When I saw it hit $14.99 per can added a half dozen cans to my old stock from when discount stores were closing it out for $1 per can.
Anything that's must have for comfort in your home have parts. Even if don't know how to test then install a capacitor and contactor look up what your outdoor condenser and indoor air handler (motor starts on fan, etc) and buy them before your stuck. Even if have to call service tech you will have your parts. I have same for my refrigerator, freezers, dehumidifiers, ham radios and about anything down to surface mount solder in units. Majority are kept in Farady boxes but have work kits I keep out handy for when need. Bet we have over 5,000 assorted resistors in the house along with desoldering and precise soldering tools, top line multimeters, occiliscopes, spectrum analyzers and more. Just the locksmith stuff being handy gets someone I know out of a jam when feel like helping. Stoopid people that don't have spare RFD chip vehicle keys I leave to a paid locksmith in case entering the vehicle smokes some $1,000 part. Will work on mine but have double spare keys in RFD chip keys.
Most home improvement stores sell inexpensive Chinese microwave leak detectors and some sell a mid grade which I actually have one in the pantry our microwave lives in. Eight to nine of ten microwaves show leakage around doors when running. If I get my good microwave leak detector or a trifield meter every microwave ever tested shows some leaking around doors if running at high power. If they hemmorage microwaves out the seams around doors would assume they leak the other direction.
Be better than nothing and especially on more robust DC electronics would likely save some of your gadgets. I have a pile of mixed scrap metal with at least a dozen microwave enclosures piled in it. After I remove the magnetron, capacitor, timer and door switches I pitch the carcass in mixed scrap then haul off when have a load. for exterior size compared to interior size they are space hogs but push a button and open. If I used one for an EMP protection device would then use mylar tape to seal the seams around the door. There are better options like ammo cans with some easy modifications. If use a microwave remember you still need to ground the chassis so any stray electrical impulse buzzing around the exterior has a path to earth ground.
Abominog
Well-known member
And real tests have shown they don’t. Unfortunately the tests are classified for now. Besides which, shunting electricity to ground does nothing for the geomagnetic wave.