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DR-200 3D Printed Fixed Stock

acgeorge

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During Thanksgiving break, I decided to get back to this project after nearly two years. It’s not perfect, but it is presentable. Finally got the bugs worked out of the model, slicing and the G-Code, and I now have a 1-piece ABS print. I have been able to reproduce it without issue. Currently awaiting A1 Buttplate assemblies from Cavalry Manufacturing and some miscellaneous fasteners.
These are long prints, taking nearly 40 hours and two pauses to insert flanged ¼-20 nuts. I hope to be offering these soon, will let you know when I do.

Here is a link to my original post on AR15.com, now archived, if your interested in how this started and progressed.
Original Thread

Link to Marketplace Ad

Wanted to share my current results, starting with the model. This is what I settled on.






Next are images of the raw print, Acetone Vapor Smoothed and sanded stocks.













Next, I performed some rudimentary testing with some standard firearms cleaning and lubricating products. I used a very early print and applied several drops of 3-In-One Oil, Break Free CLP, Outers Gun Oil and Hoppe’s #9. Also tested DPMS/Remington “CLAW” afterwards, but didn’t get a pic. Allowed them to set for 10 minutes and wipe off. There was no visible damage from any of these products. Granted, there are many other cleaning products out there, this is what I have available. Acetone, on the other hand, melts ABS instantly!







Next I thought I would share some of the Slicer images, so you can see the inside of this stock. Took some snippets at various key points in the print (e.g. Pauses to add Flanged Nuts), starting from the build plate, up. Also showing the 50% infill at both ends of the stock for reinforcement (20% in the middle portion). I tried 80 and 60%, both caused problems, settled on 50%.











Here is a image of the Cavalry Manufacturing A1 Buttplate. I kind of like the A1 rounded surface, as opposed to the A2 squared off, fully knurled surface. Hope to have them soon, along with the sling swivel and fasteners.



How to latch the trap door



My stock was designed to mate with the following original style grip, offered by S0b3 on FALFiles.com



FAL Files DR200 Grips
Link to DR200 Grip

Apex had them for a while, currently out
APEX Link

Link to Marketplace Thread
 
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easttex

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That's amazing.

I'm also amazed at the Z height your printer has. Not accustomed to seeing a 3D printer with that high a work envelope.
 

acgeorge

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I upgraded, and I use that term loosely, from a Creality Enders 3 V2 to a Tenlog TLD3 Pro. Primarily for the 300x300x350 build volume, also for the dual head (IDEX). It's stuck with Merlin 1.0 but it works well. Currently running my first "Duplicate Mode" stock print, fingers crossed. Also has "Dual Material" and "Mirror" mode.

Running Duplicate Mode

Update: Duplicate mode failed, E2 didn't resume after pause. E1 still running. Looks like I still have some work to utilize both print heads. One at a time, for now.
 
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acgeorge

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If I remember correctly, I increased the length by 10mm. Originally, not having a K2 or access to one; I asked K2 owners for basic dimensions. With the receivers of the K2 and DR200 being quite different; it was difficult to estimate. The length is comfortable. The comb is still slightly high for iron sights but is a good compromise for optics.

 

Impala_Guy

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Pile some Black Duplicolor caliper paint on there, let it dry for a couple weeks and then wet sand and 0000 steel wool it for a nice smooth semi gloss finish. It dries much harder and is tougher than any rattle can shit I've ever seen.
 
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acgeorge

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I left the depth about 1.0mm longer, where the butt plate mates with the stock, due to minimal bowing. Bed adhesion is critical when printing ABS; bed temp 100 and an enclosure are a must, to keep everything warm. Using an ABS slurry on the bed and a good-sized raft, adhesion is much better now than it was previously. It still bows, slightly, nowhere near as much as before. This will need to be sanded to fit, to ensure the butt plate contacts the inner surface, not just the periphery.

 
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TennesseeRifleman

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Something I noticed is that it appears the K3 machinegun's stock is actually the same cut as the K2's, and yet it is fixed. It's actually remarkably similar to what you're making, ultimately. If only we could get factory K3 stocks, and then stormwerkz could make an adaptor for them, fixed or folding, and you could get a non folding/possibly even folding, aesthetically pleasing Daewoo stock.

Also first post for me. Got a DR200 on the way to my local FFL, so it's time I joined.
 

Captainrotkopf

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Something I noticed is that it appears the K3 machinegun's stock is actually the same cut as the K2's, and yet it is fixed. It's actually remarkably similar to what you're making, ultimately. If only we could get factory K3 stocks, and then stormwerkz could make an adaptor for them, fixed or folding, and you could get a non folding/possibly even folding, aesthetically pleasing Daewoo stock.

Also first post for me. Got a DR200 on the way to my local FFL, so it's time I joined.
Welcome to the Files. Congrats on picking a DR200.

I doubt importing a bunch of K3 stocks is possible, especially since SK is phasing out the K3 and since a lot of them had para-style stocks anyway. But it's a solid idea; I'd still rather give my money to a FALFiler with some initiative, though. I'm really interested in Acgeorge's stock.
 

acgeorge

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I have (5) stocks printed. Two of them have been Acetone Vapor Smoothed and sanded, the remaining (3) are as printed. I'm considering finishing the first (2) with Krylon Fusion Matte Black, however. I would prefer not to sand and paint, moving forward. My wife gets very grouchy when I paint in the basement and it's too cold to paint in the garage.

I'm kind of in a "holding pattern", waiting for the Cavalry Mfg A1 Buttplates. The (5) stocks I have printed fit my A2 Buttplate, very well. Hope the Cav Mfg fit the same.
 

Captainrotkopf

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I have (5) stocks printed. Two of them have been Acetone Vapor Smoothed and sanded, the remaining (3) are as printed. I'm considering finishing the first (2) with Krylon Fusion Matte Black, however. I would prefer not to sand and paint, moving forward. My wife gets very grouchy when I paint in the basement and it's too cold to paint in the garage.

I'm kind of in a "holding pattern", waiting for the Cavalry Mfg A1 Buttplates. The (5) stocks I have printed fit my A2 Buttplate, very well. Hope the Cav Mfg fit the same.
Let us know when you want beta testers, and how much you'd let them go for.
 

TennesseeRifleman

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Let us know when you want beta testers, and how much you'd let them go for.
Yeah, I'm just lamenting the parts situation. And honestly, my brain didn't comprehend I'd be able to buy one eventually. Never been in a forum buy scheme before.

In any case, this looks fantastic and I'd love to have one to test if that happens. I don't want to keep an AR15 buffer tube on there all the time.

The only specific strength/configuration concern I have is sling mounting, with using sling tension for shooting with a vickers sling or something like that. DR200s lost the rear sling mount, and I see you put an M16 style lower sling mount on there. I'm not terribly familiar with the strength of materials that can be 3d printed, but I know polymer can be a pain to get right.

I wouldn't do this (unless for scientific purposes), but how strong are these likely to be in comparison to an A2 stock? Would mortaring the rifle/bashing something into the ground potentially damage it?
 

acgeorge

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The question regarding strength of FDM (Fused deposition modeling) is a valid concern. I'm a Mechanical Engineer and have been working in Bearing Manufacturing most of my career. I wasn't until the last 3-4 years I began seeing more and more 3D printed parts being used, primarily in material handling of bearing races. When I started this exercise several years ago, it was just that, an exercise. At that time, I was limited by my printer and built my first functional stock in out of PLA in (3) pc, epoxying them together. Then I moved into ABS which was an entirely new learning experience, especially after purchasing a printer with enough Z-axis travel to print in one piece and an enclosure to keep everything warm. I now have a printer, model and program which lets me print in ABS, one piece. It's been a work in progress and still is. It's not perfect but it is esthetically pleasing and functional. ABS has good mechanical properties (e.g. strength, temperature resistance and hydrophobic). Alot of interior car parts are made of ABS. Are there stronger filament choices? Absolutely. Glass (GF) and Carbon Fiber (CF) filled Nylon adds another layer of complexity due to their abrasive properties and are significantly more expensive. ABS is about $25/kg where GF Nylon is about $40/ half Kilo, and I use approximately 330g per stock. I purchased a roll GF Nylon for future testing. At some point I'll have to upgrade my print head (Hardened Nozzle and Higher Temp) to be able to try it.

Regarding the sling mount, Its standard AR type. I reinforced the Top/Bottom Layers to 2mm and increased the infill to 50% (as high as I could go without problems). The sling swivel offers a good amount of bearing surface against the reinforced surfaces. It should hold up well.



I did some simple tests with common cleaners and lubricants (keep away from Acetone). I have not performed any destructive testing; however, I have several failed prints (actually more than several) which could be used for this.

Is it a strong as injection molded glass filled nylon, absolutely NOT.
Would I take it into battle, absolutely NOT.
"Butt-Stroke" to the head, absolutely NOT.
Normal use at a range, I think so.
 

TennesseeRifleman

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I've done some research on another rifle, the Type 89, and now I very enthusiastically want one of these for a completely different reason as well.
The more I look at the Type 89, the more, bizarrely, it starts to resemble the K2. When I consider every change the Japanese made to the Type 89 from the AR-18 Howa produced, almost everything is a K2 feature.

The Type 89 postdates the K2, but nobody ever really talks about what rifles other than the AR18 might have influenced it.

Four position safety selector with Safe, Semi, 3 round burst, Auto? K2 feature.
Smaller, stubbier charging handle? A little K2-like. The way it mounts to the BCG is also higher, towards the back similar to a K2, above the bore, as opposed to lower and just protruding on a stem to get higher.
Two piece, side by side handguard retained by one pin? Very similar to the K2's system, as opposed to an AR18's top and bottom retained by the recoil springs.
In disassembly, they changed the retaining mechanism to have two things you push forward, one on each side of the receiver, to pivot the weapon open. The AR18, K2, and Type 89 are all pretty similar with minor changes in this.
From two recoil springs in the AR18, down to one in the Type 89.
The FCG is actually just unhinged madness, I won't talk about that.
small rear sight base, drilled for optic mounting forward of it. This is normal for AR18, K2, and Type 89 so it's neutral.
It even has a pistol grip cleaning compartment that works much the same way.

The US and ROK had clip on bipods, the Type 89 has the nicest clip on bipod of all, with a lever to take it off. In practice, it stays on.

Ergonomically, the most similar rifle actually available in the US to a Type 89 is a Daewoo K2 variant with a fixed stock or an AR18.
Practically speaking, this rifle is very, very similar in many ways to a Type 89. Somebody on youtube was running a modernized K2 (original, with folding stock) that somebody had chopped the top of the front sight hood off, and I couldn't get the similarities out of my mind once I saw that. Looked into it, the Type 89 is super strange, and the Japanese might well have been trying to Daewoo-ize the AR18.

Also, the gas system is very different to an AR18. The carrier has a long bar on top of it that's almost like a long stroke piston, except it's not a piston. A short stroke piston system pushes it instead of gas pushing it.

That's a lot of words for "this stock turns a DR200 into just about the closest thing ergonomically and aesthetically you can get to a Howa Type 89"
Obviously, a Howa AR180 is pretty close but it lacks a lot of features. The three rifles are bizarrely similar for how differently they actually work and are made.
 

SHIKAKA

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I've done some research on another rifle, the Type 89, and now I very enthusiastically want one of these for a completely different reason as well.
The more I look at the Type 89, the more, bizarrely, it starts to resemble the K2. When I consider every change the Japanese made to the Type 89 from the AR-18 Howa produced, almost everything is a K2 feature.

The Type 89 postdates the K2, but nobody ever really talks about what rifles other than the AR18 might have influenced it.

Four position safety selector with Safe, Semi, 3 round burst, Auto? K2 feature.
Smaller, stubbier charging handle? A little K2-like. The way it mounts to the BCG is also higher, towards the back similar to a K2, above the bore, as opposed to lower and just protruding on a stem to get higher.
Two piece, side by side handguard retained by one pin? Very similar to the K2's system, as opposed to an AR18's top and bottom retained by the recoil springs.
In disassembly, they changed the retaining mechanism to have two things you push forward, one on each side of the receiver, to pivot the weapon open. The AR18, K2, and Type 89 are all pretty similar with minor changes in this.
From two recoil springs in the AR18, down to one in the Type 89.
The FCG is actually just unhinged madness, I won't talk about that.
small rear sight base, drilled for optic mounting forward of it. This is normal for AR18, K2, and Type 89 so it's neutral.
It even has a pistol grip cleaning compartment that works much the same way.

The US and ROK had clip on bipods, the Type 89 has the nicest clip on bipod of all, with a lever to take it off. In practice, it stays on.

Ergonomically, the most similar rifle actually available in the US to a Type 89 is a Daewoo K2 variant with a fixed stock or an AR18.
Practically speaking, this rifle is very, very similar in many ways to a Type 89. Somebody on youtube was running a modernized K2 (original, with folding stock) that somebody had chopped the top of the front sight hood off, and I couldn't get the similarities out of my mind once I saw that. Looked into it, the Type 89 is super strange, and the Japanese might well have been trying to Daewoo-ize the AR18.

Also, the gas system is very different to an AR18. The carrier has a long bar on top of it that's almost like a long stroke piston, except it's not a piston. A short stroke piston system pushes it instead of gas pushing it.

That's a lot of words for "this stock turns a DR200 into just about the closest thing ergonomically and aesthetically you can get to a Howa Type 89"
Obviously, a Howa AR180 is pretty close but it lacks a lot of features. The three rifles are bizarrely similar for how differently they actually work and are made.
Holy Spanish Cetme-L/Daewoo derivative!!!!😘
 

acgeorge

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Cavalry Mfg. Buttplates arrived, little disappointed.

1. The Buttplate screws I purchased are short due to the Counter Sink depth being much shallowed than GI. Need to be 1/4" longer.

2. Sling swivels are Aluminum, not bad, would have preferred steel. Never cared for steel screws into aluminum. Screw is smaller (M5x.75) than GI
and wrong head for C'Bore hole. I believe the GI Swivel screw is #12-28, requiring a #14 or 3/16" Tap drill.
It looks possible to re-drill and tap to GI. For now, will find M5 fastener with more appropriate head (Wide Pan or Cheese Head), at the very least?

3. Trap door hinge is flexible, as is the latch (I knew this when purchased). Must push latch to close, not spring loaded as the GI.

4. Overall fit is not bad, very slight contour difference at the bottom, the A2 buttplate is a bit wider. The stock could be sanded to fit better. I don't
believe I will change the model as some may choose a A2 Buttplate.

Also did some priming and painting, this weekend. Not having the proper facilities makes it very difficult. Testing a few primers to help smooth the
minor surface defects. Prior to vapor smoothing I used an ABS slurry to fill in some of the more noticeable voids. The vapor smoothing eliminates the layer
lines but does leave some slight ripples/waves. These can be eliminated with extra sanding. It's amazing how these defects appear after painting.

As I said previously, I will probably leave the finishing to you, going forward.

Bunch of pics to illustrate.






Note, the pic below doesn't have the (2) screws installed. The buttplate is just sitting there. Once fastened, the gap closes up.








 
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acgeorge

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This is what I ordered to replace the sling swivel screw; M5x30 Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screw, not ideal but functional. Unfortunately, it requires a 3mm Hex wrench; I hate mixing Std. and Metric fasteners!

Also ordered longer upper screws. All should arrive Tomorrow.

M5x30 Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screw.jpg
 
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