I just had 18s put on my Silverado 2 days ago. 70k Michelins were $1012.00 out the door. Les Shwab wanted $1250.00.
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DIY is Getting Expensive on Automobiles
- Thread starter meltblown
- Start date
SpringerXD
Well-known member
I'm running a non-factory size, LT305/65 R18. They're less common so more expensive.
EinheitElf
Well-known member
for my 1989 Range rover classic---of course I do need to remover the rotors and unbolt from the BACK of the hub cause they are bolted on...so bearings seals etc all get serviced....Just doing the pads is a cake walk though--compress pistons slide old pads out,new in,insyall the antisqueak spring ,huge cotter pins and done.
$399.99---------------------- I can get stuff cheaper if I hunt around...like $50 a rotor,$50 per axle non ferodo pads,etc....
$399.99---------------------- I can get stuff cheaper if I hunt around...like $50 a rotor,$50 per axle non ferodo pads,etc....
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grumpy1
Well-known member
I just spent the better part of this week working on my daughter’s truck. What I thought was going to be a simple fix took almost 5 days to do. Her truck died at school ( nice warm single digit day with wind chill = zero degrees) I wasn’t dressed for the weather either. Thought I could just jump the batteries and get it going but nothing but a loud click.
I got batteries for her truck (1997 F250HD 7.3L power stroke) at Costco. They were just over $100 each for Interstate brand batteries. Two years ago when I put a new battery in my Ford Ranger it was almost $200 for one battery from O’Rielly’s.
That didn’t fix the problem, the over night temperature was low enough that the batteries froze and drain the power out of them, that was a first for me. I did have the old batteries load tested and they were bad.
I pulled the starter out next, another day with a day time high in the teens which the wind chill put it into the single digits. Took it to the parts store to have it tested, which I could hear it spin up multiple times as they were testing it, they said it passed and was good.
Next came replacing the fender mounted relay switch. This was the only thing that was easy to replace. That still didn’t change anything. Then I cut off the old factory ends on the battery cables as two of them I couldn’t loosen as they had been tightened down too much at some point. Thought it might be a bad connection. After three trips to the hardwear store to get new copper battery lugs I soldered them on to the cables and put new battery terminals on. And still nothing but a big click.
I decided that the only thing that hadn’t been replaced yet was the starter. That got ordered and took almost a day to get delivered, I could have saved some time and a bout $40 buying a remanufactured starter from a local parts store but I figured why not get the gear reduction starter. After three hours it was finally installed, it took probably hour just to tighten one bolt a 1/16th of a turn at a time. The starter that I would have rather had as twice the money and a week out on delivery.
I had to run to the junk yard as some how I lost one of the battery hold down clamps.
I think the total bill is just under $500 for the week. Lucky Dad works cheap.
sorry to hi-jack the thread, but I’ve used RA before too. I did all four brakes and rotors on my Ford for less money than I could have done just the front axle getting the parts locally. If you can plan a head or have time to wait you can save a lot of money.
Next up for her truck is the steering gear box replacement, that’s going to be a $350 replacement. I’m not going cheap on it. And that will also need an alignment afterwards too, which will be $100 plus.
I got batteries for her truck (1997 F250HD 7.3L power stroke) at Costco. They were just over $100 each for Interstate brand batteries. Two years ago when I put a new battery in my Ford Ranger it was almost $200 for one battery from O’Rielly’s.
That didn’t fix the problem, the over night temperature was low enough that the batteries froze and drain the power out of them, that was a first for me. I did have the old batteries load tested and they were bad.
I pulled the starter out next, another day with a day time high in the teens which the wind chill put it into the single digits. Took it to the parts store to have it tested, which I could hear it spin up multiple times as they were testing it, they said it passed and was good.
Next came replacing the fender mounted relay switch. This was the only thing that was easy to replace. That still didn’t change anything. Then I cut off the old factory ends on the battery cables as two of them I couldn’t loosen as they had been tightened down too much at some point. Thought it might be a bad connection. After three trips to the hardwear store to get new copper battery lugs I soldered them on to the cables and put new battery terminals on. And still nothing but a big click.
I decided that the only thing that hadn’t been replaced yet was the starter. That got ordered and took almost a day to get delivered, I could have saved some time and a bout $40 buying a remanufactured starter from a local parts store but I figured why not get the gear reduction starter. After three hours it was finally installed, it took probably hour just to tighten one bolt a 1/16th of a turn at a time. The starter that I would have rather had as twice the money and a week out on delivery.
I had to run to the junk yard as some how I lost one of the battery hold down clamps.
I think the total bill is just under $500 for the week. Lucky Dad works cheap.
sorry to hi-jack the thread, but I’ve used RA before too. I did all four brakes and rotors on my Ford for less money than I could have done just the front axle getting the parts locally. If you can plan a head or have time to wait you can save a lot of money.
Next up for her truck is the steering gear box replacement, that’s going to be a $350 replacement. I’m not going cheap on it. And that will also need an alignment afterwards too, which will be $100 plus.
You guys should be working on Peterbilts and Kenworths, those parts bills will make you pucker up tight. 
grumpy1
Well-known member
Yeah I know that’s why I can’t afford them. I know the owner of Wheeler CAT. My mom worked for him when I was a kid. And a neighbor is a diesel field mechanic he almost lost his job back in 2007/08 because everyone could afford to pay the bills to keep their equipment serviced.You guys should be working on Peterbilts and Kenworths, those parts bills will make you pucker up tight.
Oh, I never thought I would be a diesel mechanic either. Gas engines I’ve been working on since I was 13 or 14. I’m learning a whole new skill set way to late in life.
Jarhead504
Well-known member
Last week I was in the main NAPA hub store and noticed a Warning on the counter. It had a scan patch to contact your congress critter to get them to STOP some bill the maoists are proposing to BAN DIY CAR REPAIR. The man told me they want to not only stop you from working on your vehicles but to ban the selling of vehicle parts to individuals.
Nice huh?
First they came for the handguns and handgun owners...
Jarhead
Nice huh?
First they came for the handguns and handgun owners...
Jarhead
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Get a load of this shit. 2 minutes but it's damn sure similar
Abominog
Well-known member
Used trucks are hot, and they have used tires that now need replacement. Supply and demand. Performance sports car tires cost less than pedestrian truck tires now.
I wouldn’t turn rotors. Chinese rotors are garbage, better value in OEM.
I wouldn’t turn rotors. Chinese rotors are garbage, better value in OEM.
frankxtc
Well-known member
Working on my Powerstroke 7.3 this week.
Won't start, discovered the high pressure oil system (powers the injectors)
might be the problem.
One of the hoses (3000 PSI) is leaking into the valley.
You would not believe how much crap needs to be removed to access the HPOP hoses!
Can't complain about it much, after 24 years and 300k miles,
the 7.3 has been exceptional.
Won't start, discovered the high pressure oil system (powers the injectors)
might be the problem.
One of the hoses (3000 PSI) is leaking into the valley.
You would not believe how much crap needs to be removed to access the HPOP hoses!
Can't complain about it much, after 24 years and 300k miles,
the 7.3 has been exceptional.
cotter
Well-known member
If you think the what? 4 sensors on that 7.3 are bad don't even think about a 6.7 my friend. 2 radiators/cooling systems
and that's just the start. My starting place with my 7.3 was check the oil... And keep a spare cps in the glove box. Also know your International cross reference numbers, sometimes they are cheaper or atleast on hand close by.