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Case Lube

Sig220

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I have several cans of one shot, a couple of Dillion and a couple of my brew of alcohol and lanolin.
I use mostly the alcohol and lanolin if I am busy reloading, if I am just doing 5 or so to test I use one shot.
 

yovinny

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I still mostly use one shot,, its convenient.
But the original formula in the 90's was WAY better then the current stuff.
The original dried to almost a white powdered finish, worked fantastic and wiped right off.
I was very disappointed when my original case ran out... and I discovered the change..
 

meltblown

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I'm done sizing for now but will start getting some of these suggestions together for the next run. I'm sure my loads after I shoot them will look like my wife dropped the brass in her egg roll fryer as they usually do.
 

badzero

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I started dry tumbling everything after breaking open a box of 308 that had been reloading and stored without cleaning the Dillon case lube off 10 years ago. I didn’t worry so much about how they looked but the fact that they were sticky, might not mean anything but I was worried that if I needed them in the dead of winter the combination of cold and sticky residue might mean jams.
After deer hunting with an ar assembled with mil-tec in the cold I‘m more of an error on the side of caution type guy.
 

davedude

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My new privi 45-70 cases had some greasy preservative/lube on the i could just not remove to save my life. Irritated me some. Got it off finally with a high concentration of dawn dish soap in scalding hot water. I think a big wet tumbler might be getting some consideration soon.
Used the RCBS lube and pad for decades. Now use imperial wax and fingers.
 

Slaughter

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I decap, wet tumble and dry before reloading. I use Imperial case wax. Works well. Also use Alcohol/Lanolin spray - easier when I'm loading a metric butt-load. I know we're NOT SUPPOSED to tumble after loading but I always tumble my loaded FMJ rounds and put a capful of NuFinish in the dry media to remove the lube and it really leaves a protective layer. Tumble nor more than 30 minutes. I have never measured any changes in COAL. Shine seems to last forever.
 

LongueCarabine

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Dillon Case Lube is lanolin + alcohol.

My guys make their own: lanolin (liquid) + 99% alcohol in a 1:10 ratio. Doesn't dry up or go bad.


Guys at 6.5 forums do the same thing:

This is what I have been using for several years now. Much cheaper than buying any of that aerosol spray. I've never had brass seize in the die with it.

LC
 

lew

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Dillon and Frankford Arsenal case lubes also contain an emulsifier, in addition to the isopropyl alcohol and lanoline. So be careful with your homemade brews. Stuck cases are on you.

I think it's hilarious that people still use lube pads in 2021. :eek: 😆😆
 

ArtBanks

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RCBS Case Lube - 2 on a pad and a .410 bore mop for the neck's interior works for me. Over 50 years of doing 5 - 10 k per year on my single stage. I do use imperial for the occasional few lonesome cases for ladders though.

Whatta Hobby!

IMG_4491.JPG

55 gn Berger 2.jpg
 

Eeben

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What's the idea behind tumbling a second time after sizing to remove lube? I just take a damp cloth and wipe the case down after my round is completely loaded. I also use royal case and die lube and it is fairly sticky. I've used Frankfort arsenal and the pump got clogged by particles. Also used lee paste lube which was just a lot of work.
 

Sig220

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Dillon and Frankford Arsenal case lubes also contain an emulsifier, in addition to the isopropyl alcohol and lanoline. So be careful with your homemade brews. Stuck cases are on you.

I think it's hilarious that people still use lube pads in 2021. :eek: 😆😆
My emulsifier is a couple of old pulled .22 cal projectiles that I drop in the bottom of the sprayer and shake before using! At least I used that in my first batch of lanoline and alcohol when the lanoline was sold as "nipple" cream at Wallyworld. Took a lot of shaking to mix that stuff! My latest lanoline came from Amazon and is in more of a liquid form. Easy to mix it just be shaking a couple of times. I use a clear bottle so I can see it is mixed and it works great!
 

ArtBanks

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What's the idea behind tumbling a second time after sizing to remove lube? I just take a damp cloth and wipe the case down after my round is completely loaded. I also use royal case and die lube and it is fairly sticky. I've used Frankfort arsenal and the pump got clogged by particles. Also used lee paste lube which was just a lot of work.
I like to make sure the case lube is completely out of the neck and off the exterior before charging and seating hence the second wet tumbling and then the trip through the dryer.
 

lew

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What's the idea behind tumbling a second time after sizing to remove lube? I just take a damp cloth and wipe the case down after my round is completely loaded. I also use royal case and die lube and it is fairly sticky. I've used Frankfort arsenal and the pump got clogged by particles. Also used lee paste lube which was just a lot of work.
If you're using a lanolin-based lube, tumbling after sizing is just a waste of time as leaving the lube inside the case will harm nothing. If you are doing so with dry media, it's a good way to get said media stuck in the flash hole. I load a lot at a time, and try to remove extraneous steps, so I lube the cases, load them up, then tumble after to remove lube from the outside of the case. If one wants to dick around with lube pads, tumbling more than necessary, etc... have at it, but I like loading up a bunch of rounds that I know will shoot fantastically (I do shoot precision rifles, and my handloads are damned fine.) and doing so with as little effort as possible.
 

hagar

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I use the Frankfort armory spray lube, or imperial wax if I only do a few. Put brass in large plastic bag, spray liberally while shaking bag, and let sit for an hour. Some of the spray lubes are crap. After loading, run in the tumbler for an hour.
 
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