• WTB / WTS / WTT ADS
    All Advertisements, including Want to Buy, Want to Sell, Want to Trade, Belong in the MARKETPLACE ONLY. Any new threads posted offering an item for sale, looking to trade or buy an item which are posted outside of Marketplace will be deleted without notice or warning. Existing threads will be moved to marketplace.
  • Marketplace Feedback Ratings
    The Marketplace feedback ratings system is now back. You can now leave feedback for your Buy / Sell / Trade transactions. Instructions on how to leave feedback ratings can be found HERE

Barrel shortening on a Savage made model 720

yovinny

Well-known member
Platinum Contributor
FALaholic #
7679
Joined
Oct 14, 2002
Posts
8,615
Location
Eastern PA
Feedback: 103 / 0 / 0
If the stock is too beat to freshen the checkering, maybe you could stipple those areas instead..?
I would do dremmel type with a little ball cutter, rather then hammer & punch type on those thin hg's..
I would also park it for finish,, over anything else besides maybe cold rust blue...nobuddygottstimefodat... ;)
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
If the stock is too beat to freshen the checkering, maybe you could stipple those areas instead..?
I would do dremmel type with a little ball cutter, rather then hammer & punch type on those thin hg's..
I would also park it for finish,, over anything else besides maybe cold rust blue...nobuddygottstimefodat... ;)
I have sometimes done stippling using one of those little electro pencils just sit there and tap away at it and you get the same kind of affect. Works quite well actually. I’ve even modified one of those tools to use as a little mini chisel. Got a piece of HSS drill bit that was of the proper diameter, I think it was 5/32”, ground a chisel edge to it and use it to chisel parts off that were stuck real tight. I’m going to take the checkering as far as it can go however so, I might reserve the stippling till I have no other choice. Maybe I can get away with it even if it does have some messed up lines or, skip lines or, crossed lines. I could always put another ding in it and tung oil it right where the error is to camouflage it, lol. Creative aging, so to say.
I might go for Parkererizing it. I’ve got the tank and I’ve got some Pilkington‘s, I just have never set it up for operation after I got divorced seven years ago. Got all the stuff back about five years ago when everything got settled but it’s just been put away. I might have to dig that out because I bought it all used with the intentions of learning how to parkerize and I still have never done it.
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
Just a closer look at what I have to work with, lol. Like I said, it’s an exercise for the experience.
2E246C0C-0AE3-46FD-9D1A-A652BC94191B.jpeg
Getting a straight line established on an otherwise blank spot.
F5CE2666-4E72-448E-AB89-6AEB8B882C4A.jpeg
Getting closer!
A5C355D0-C1AD-466C-9570-407078A218BD.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Aeroscout

Well-known member
Contributor
FALaholic #
67625
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Posts
2,816
Location
REPUBLIC of Texas
Feedback: 157 / 0 / 0
I’ve heard that referred to in a couple of articles I’ve read but, I haven’t seen anything about how to do it or where to purchase such a device/parts if that’s the case. Do you have a source or the info on how to make the mod or, get the parts?
Quoted from a post on another site:


"The two piece carrier is an easy swap in the model 11 but can take some metal work to fit right. You also have to replace more than just the carrier. Midwest gun works carries all the parts. MGW
ETA these numbers are for a 2 3/4 12 gauge
2 piece carrier. b1111064
Spring b1111107
Locking block latch b1111269
latch spring b1111277
It is not a cheap mod but it makes the gun very user friendly. Around $145 if I remember right.
Remington model 11 replacement parts can be bought from Sarco

The buttstocks are not interchangeable due to the different tang angles without modification of the tang. The forends will interchange if its from a light 12. The mag forends require a spacer to fit right. The barrels are a no go between browning and remington. Can't speak for the savage as I have not had one."

End quote

 

Nihonto Chicken

Well-known member
FALaholic #
79627
Joined
May 6, 2017
Posts
261
Location
Central Coast, PRKaliforniastan
Feedback: 0 / 0 / 0
While only a few parts interchange between a Browning A5 and a Remington Model 11, the Savage 720 was engineered to be a direct ripoff of the Model 11, save the cellulose buffer riveted at the interior rear of the Model 11 receiver which was omitted on the 720. Of course, even when parts are supposed to interchange, there can be fitting concerns. I planned to do the carrier mod on an older A5, scored the two-piece replacement carrier cheap, then found I also need a two-piece carrier compatible locking block latch and spring. Always something! Good fortune with your mod.
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
While only a few parts interchange between a Browning A5 and a Remington Model 11, the Savage 720 was engineered to be a direct ripoff of the Model 11, save the cellulose buffer riveted at the interior rear of the Model 11 receiver which was omitted on the 720. Of course, even when parts are supposed to interchange, there can be fitting concerns. I planned to do the carrier mod on an older A5, scored the two-piece replacement carrier cheap, then found I also need a two-piece carrier compatible locking block latch and spring. Always something! Good fortune with your mod.
Yeah, I looked up that mod and found where MGW stocks it and they want 169 bucks. The guns probably only worth 150 bucks, lol. So unless I can find it cheap somewhere maybe, I’ll look around on eBay or wherever sometime to see if I can find parts.
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
Here’s progress so far tonight. Not really half bad actually and I want to thank all of you guys for encouraging me. Or instigating whichever the case may be. Lol. I still need to go back over it in a number of places so I’m not really done yet. This is just one coat of tung oil over the checkering to try to keep the feathering down and I’m gonna go over things one last time with a single line tool to point everything up. There was quite a few dented bits and, holes with punky, pithy type places here in there that would cause it to bite and dig in or, cause the tool to stray. I put the oil on and let it dry on a couple of occasions actually firm the wood up for checkering in order to help hold those some places together when I re-cut them but, I think I camouflaged most things fairly well. Going to let the tung oil set up overnight and re-point tomorrow before I give it another final coat of tung oil. I’ll get back to the butt stock tomorrow. I tried to preserve all of its dings and gouges and scratches actually. Try to make it match the forearm as best I can actually. Preservation and, conservation of a beater condition you might say.
16F9B06F-E89B-493D-8CA8-534737B5C2A0.jpeg
12BBA11D-2DE1-4E94-9EEA-77D9F867F328.jpeg
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
So, this thread supposed to be about shortening a shotgun barrel and, yup, 20 inches it is.
978B8D23-B862-4F24-B813-5B4DD8D47849.jpeg
Little bit of erl on it smooths out the spinning. 8A9D7030-D03B-4046-AA6E-B69EEA33A742.jpeg
No turning back now 🤓
1CC1C8C9-589A-4287-B815-6D4E8B0A590E.jpeg
Little bit of filework and then, a little bit of booger picking.
4A1A5BD3-73BE-482D-97A4-46A46B128681.jpeg
The butt and forearm are still a bit tacky from the last coat of tung oil so, done for the day and I’ll have to wait for tomorrow before I can put everything together.
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
Here’s some of the repair work I did do, I forgot to take before photographs however but, the butt plate screws for whatever reason were somewhat chewed. I can’t imagine why anybody wanted to take it off so many times to mess up the screwheads but it was. I used my little 12 ounce ball pein hammer head that I saved from a broken hammer. I call it my palm hammer although of course, one could do this with a regular ball pein hammer of the weight of your choice, at least an 8 ounce anyway. I peined the edges of each screw slot to move material back in word towards the screw slot and then re-shaped by hammering and with a little bit of light filing the shape of the slide a little bit. Wala! Straight screw slot.
ACFEB5B7-927E-4FB0-AD2F-F92171057606.jpeg
 

Nihonto Chicken

Well-known member
FALaholic #
79627
Joined
May 6, 2017
Posts
261
Location
Central Coast, PRKaliforniastan
Feedback: 0 / 0 / 0
So, this thread supposed to be about shortening a shotgun barrel and, yup, 20 inches it is.
View attachment 149656
My local gunsmith used to do a great job of shortening a shotgun barrel and replacing the bead for only $30, but unfortunately he has had a medical setback and no longer does this. Another local smith wants $100 to do the same, so it looks like I'm on my own. It appears that a tubing cutter would beat a hacksaw for keeping the muzzle square and minimizing the clean up work, but I wonder how much metal is forced into the barrel interior that must be reamed out to keep the walls parallel. Any enlightenment? TIA! :)
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
Surprisingly very, very little actually. The hard steel of a gun barrel isn’t like soft iron zinc or black iron pipe that extrudes a considerable amount actually. You still have some but only approximately a 1/16” at the very, very most to the interior to the bore and, about the same exterior to the barrel o.d. and easily smoothed off with a fine mill cut file on the outside. On the inside I used a 1 1/8” 90° counter sink that I happened to have. But, I still ended up finishing off with a very, very smooth quarter inch smooth cut parallel round file. You can still do all that with just a file on the interior though so, don’t go out and buy an 1 1/8” 90° countersink. I can set up some pictures tomorrow of the tools I used and how I did it with my leftover barrel stub I suppose. I could do a step-by-step photo process cutting the stub and give some shots of the amount of extrusion of the cut. I will get one other tip, if you don’t have a quality tubing cutter, go invest in one. They’re not really that expensive. If you buy a cheap one, it’ll just stray on you or just give you a shitty cut in general. That might not be a problem on a piece of iron pipe but, you don’t want that on a gun barrel.
 
Last edited:

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
As per requested and also, today’s first coffee achievement. A little bit of a barrel cutting essay.
The practice “gun” barrel ready for its cut. Snug the cutter good and firm for your first revolution. You don’t have to crank it down, you’re just going to kind of mark the barrel and give the tool a path to follow. After making one complete revolution give it about another 1/8” turn on to make sure it will still continue to follow the same path
D7F1820A-C4AC-4376-823D-B1182A306649.jpeg
I typically make two revolutions per cut just to make sure it’s nice and clean before tightening the stem down another 1/8” to 1/4” of a turn each time.
F1CE83E0-5169-4614-8668-ABEFF94B4B94.jpeg
A slippery tool, is a happy tool and will get you there so much better.
2F047FCA-357F-4728-B920-0FA8F81900C6.jpeg
If you listen carefully, as you’re cutting, right as the break occurs it makes a very satisfying “snick“ sound. Here you can see just how much displacement or extrusion you have of the metal after you have made the cut.
F626157F-AFAF-4AEC-847C-123F4DCFA908.jpeg
If you don’t have a hardware store that has a good selection of files on hand you can always order online from a number of very good sources of industrial suppliers. However if you don’t want to wait that long a 1/4” parallel file made for chainsaw sharpening is a good improvised file for the purpose. Be sure to mind your file angle/stroke so that you don’t gouge inside the barrel further down the bore with the tip of the file. If you have concerns of that happening perhaps wrap electrical tape over the tip of the file so that it doesn’t gouge just in case.
E479A36F-272A-4985-BA94-1F6BE3159319.jpeg
On the outside of the barrel I used a 6” smooth mill file.
3AC889F9-2966-41EB-A2C8-D4ED6C1F5D43.jpeg
A little bit of booger picking and, it’s a done deal. I didn’t go into final polishing though as this of course is just a stub so, no need.
25AF714C-B70A-4E73-B781-1F064426A3CB.jpeg
here’s a picture of the actual gun barrels muzzle. I think I’m just going to try to age the cut to make the bright stuff go away instead of trying to cold blue. At least until I decide if I’m going to Park it or not.
B9462781-7372-4665-B7E0-D23480FB2254.jpeg
I hope this helps anyone who is wanting to use an improvised way to cut a shotgun barrel. I know there are more professional and better ways if you have a nice quality saw of some sort or, milling table but, lacking that you can still do a good job.

Goodwill to all.
 

Attachments:

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
Working on the butt stock today I decided to give it a try out. It only has three coats of tung oil with no sanding in between, just a light steel wool scrub. I kind of stopped here because I wanted to try to preserve that original rustic wood with all the scars and stuff in it and, I just kind of scrubbed it lightly with some OOOO sw and polished with a T cloth. I need to knock off a little bit more of the gloss though to get it to match.
ADC853BA-8FD2-4ADD-BC35-E2C5CE38666D.jpeg
AC606F0C-4458-46F7-8753-34226648B11F.jpeg
64F21087-0257-4846-87BF-351CF86B3292.jpeg
The finish on the forearm that’s still glossy is all original with only the checkering that I recut having been refinished. So, since I have that much original finish left I’m trying to match the Stocks appearance to it in the way of sheen. Not quite there actually, almost though.
🤓
 

Nihonto Chicken

Well-known member
FALaholic #
79627
Joined
May 6, 2017
Posts
261
Location
Central Coast, PRKaliforniastan
Feedback: 0 / 0 / 0
Thank you for your detailed explanation of your barrel cutting method. I imagine I'll go this route myself when I get to it. My other consideration is replacing the bead on the cut barrel. I've read that one hint is to mark the position of the new bead before cutting the barrel, using the old bead to help identify the center of the barrel (wrap a small thread around it with the ends extended back to the center of the receiver). That done, I'm a bit leery of drilling and tapping such a small thread, have had bad luck here in the past. Always an adventure! ;)
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
Thank you for your detailed explanation of your barrel cutting method. I imagine I'll go this route myself when I get to it. My other consideration is replacing the bead on the cut barrel. I've read that one hint is to mark the position of the new bead before cutting the barrel, using the old bead to help identify the center of the barrel (wrap a small thread around it with the ends extended back to the center of the receiver). That done, I'm a bit leery of drilling and tapping such a small thread, have had bad luck here in the past. Always an adventure! ;)
I’m sure you’ll be able to do it just fine. It is just a matter of economy because it’s the tools that I have on hand. As far as the sight goes, I found a site base on the GunpartsCorp. website for a sight base made for the 720 Savage. It’s a solder on but, I could manage that and then, you press the bead sight of your choice into the hole on the ramp.

Some old timers found barrel center by suspending the barrel on a string. I’m not so certain that it is a possibility on all shotgun barrels but, it could be on one of these.

I’m going to use one of these:
With one of these:
 

Nihonto Chicken

Well-known member
FALaholic #
79627
Joined
May 6, 2017
Posts
261
Location
Central Coast, PRKaliforniastan
Feedback: 0 / 0 / 0
Funny you should mention the solder-on bead pedestals, common on long barrel A5s, Model 11s and 720s. I have four each of the beads and bases. I had five, but gave one pair to the old gunsmith shortening a barrel for me, who managed to lose them and proceded to affix a plain bead. However, you can add silver soldering to my background of bad experiences. My one real success was soldering closed a home made habaki for a nihonto (Japanese sword), a project that came out rather well. On the other hand, when trying to solder closed a small tear in the bowl of a large silver soup ladle (800 fine), I blew a big hole right through it! I was sure the lower silver content solder would melt first. Wrong-O! I finally got the hole closed, but one can still see the half melted coil of silver solder in the middle. :LOL: Back to the shotgun barrel, I suppose I could try to drill and tap a plain bead first, and if I screw that up I could maybe solder a pedestal over the mistake. :geek:
 
Last edited:

yovinny

Well-known member
Platinum Contributor
FALaholic #
7679
Joined
Oct 14, 2002
Posts
8,615
Location
Eastern PA
Feedback: 103 / 0 / 0
The biggest issue people have with tapping holes, especially small ones, is keeping the tap strait.
Though its easily done if you set up and drill in a drill press, then just switch out the drill for the tap and turn the chuck by hand while keeping some light pressure on your down feed. Release pressure and reverse turn after a couple of revolutions to break chips and clear the cutting edge.. Then just rinse and repeat a few times untill your through or bottomed out and done.. And dont forget,, your tap will show it's appreciation with better work for a drop of oil.... ;)
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
The biggest issue people have with tapping holes, especially small ones, is keeping the tap strait.
Though its easily done if you set up and drill in a drill press, then just switch out the drill for the tap and turn the chuck by hand while keeping some light pressure on your down feed. Release pressure and reverse turn after a couple of revolutions to break chips and clear the cutting edge.. Then just rinse and repeat a few times untill your through or bottomed out and done.. And dont forget,, your tap will show it's appreciation with better work for a drop of oil.... ;)
Well presented vinny, that’s exactly my technique for the most part. I used to have one of those ratcheting “T” tap handles that would fit into the chuck of the drill press that you could swap out after the drill bit. It, as well as another box of gunsmithing tools I had got lost in the divorce transfer of property. Yeah a bunch of adjustable reamers as well as several chamber reamers. I really miss that tool, it was pretty handy.

At one time in my life, over 45 years ago when I worked for Coleman as an assembly mechanic I also did industrial level silver soldering. Valve assemblies for their lanterns and stoves were silver soldered together with high temp Silva-loy. I’m pretty confident soldering soldering anything, in particularly silver solder. If anyone bought a Coleman lantern or a stove in 1986 there is a 33% likelihood that I silver soldered the valve assembly together.
 

yovinny

Well-known member
Platinum Contributor
FALaholic #
7679
Joined
Oct 14, 2002
Posts
8,615
Location
Eastern PA
Feedback: 103 / 0 / 0
Yes sir,, I have a few different style tap handles that can be chucked up or used under a center, including ratcheting models.. They come in very handy,.
That was just the quick and dirty $.50 KISS version for those struggling without...
Even when I was doing tool & gauge machining, I tapped all my small holes by hand and never went to power tapping unless larger size or just tons of holes needing done..
Cheers, yv
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
Oh yeah, I’ve probably done far more by the way you described by just twisting the chuck by hand with the tap chucked up. Kind of hard on the hands at times but if you just have one or two small holes it’s not that big of a deal, lol. You get over it pretty quick.

👍🏻
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
So, my soldering skills have lapsed quite a bit in the last 30 years, lol. I have done some other soldering such as brakes during the ban era
and, other devices but, that was using a much larger oxygen/acetylene type torch. For the purposes of soldering the base to the 720 barrel the only torch I have is your basic screw bottle mapp gas which, works for the most part but, it’s just very ill directed and doesn’t burn as clean.
But, I still manage sorta. Here’s some photos of my step-by-step. I just haven’t manufactured a bead yet. After a lot of eyeballing, here’s where I decided my center was.
E0E0BAE1-0A12-4EC4-8B53-826A88DC834E.jpeg
A quick double check just to make sure. My pictures are slightly out of sequence but, I think you’ll get the idea.
DE448B03-37E7-4CEC-9EB7-EC823B298902.jpeg
Brighten it all up with a little bit of 320 grit as well as on the bottom of the site base so she’ll stick real good.
9C09B8BE-1EF8-40B2-8F33-09E2F4784A6C.jpeg
So the tape has to come off of course.
F011EBFF-1A1E-4958-8B07-64D41519BE1B.jpeg
I don’t have any fancy clamps or, third hand gizmos so, looks like a piece of good old Black iron bailing wire is going to have to step in and do the trick. F91FBE08-22A1-4DBF-B135-ED2318FF551A.jpeg
The soldering job afterwards look like the dickens so I decided to do a little electro pencil stippling on the front and back ramp portion of the base so that I won’t have to worry about you know, glare and all that.
13FF9E08-1C86-42F3-804C-0AB5015A3496.jpeg
A hole in the top of the site base is a .125” diameter and kind of hard to find so, I took a piece of brass drill rod that I have and turned down part of it to make a little pin tip for my bead to sit on.
EC1F70E4-D3DC-4732-8D12-BC1C0DC1834C.jpeg
As for the bead, I made myself an assortment of white beads using a white two part epoxy compound. As soon as they set up I’m going to put a tiny little hole in one of them and epoxy it to the pin.
9AB66F45-844C-46C2-9609-06FDAC5C2E3E.jpeg
That’s it for now. Plain, simple, flatlander gunsmiffin’

Goodwill
 

Pluribus

Testudo Sicario & Mediocris Albus Diaboli
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #
5600
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Posts
8,114
Location
Wichita, America
Feedback: 120 / 0 / 0
OK, here’s the little bitty bead, lol. First I had to make a little bitty hole in the little bitty bead. I just used a pin vise to hold a 1/16 inch drill bit for me and twisted it in by hand.
53028C29-82D1-4035-B23F-F5357DDEB175.jpeg
Just a couple of drops of five minute JB Weld clear and it’s stuck right on there.
B53FE831-9049-42FE-ADDA-EBC28D814C2D.jpeg
Jes’ look’a tha’ cheap thang! lol
 

Aeroscout

Well-known member
Contributor
FALaholic #
67625
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Posts
2,816
Location
REPUBLIC of Texas
Feedback: 157 / 0 / 0
Quoted from a post on another site:


"The two piece carrier is an easy swap in the model 11 but can take some metal work to fit right. You also have to replace more than just the carrier. Midwest gun works carries all the parts. MGW
ETA these numbers are for a 2 3/4 12 gauge
2 piece carrier. b1111064
Spring b1111107
Locking block latch b1111269
latch spring b1111277
It is not a cheap mod but it makes the gun very user friendly. Around $145 if I remember right.
Remington model 11 replacement parts can be bought from Sarco

The buttstocks are not interchangeable due to the different tang angles without modification of the tang. The forends will interchange if its from a light 12. The mag forends require a spacer to fit right. The barrels are a no go between browning and remington. Can't speak for the savage as I have not had one."

End quote

Happen to be on the same ride you are....... I bought all these parts for my Model 11.......other than the two piece carrier, none of the others were required for my gun. The 2 piece carrier dropped right in with no tweaking necessary. I happened into a barrel that is cut at 19.4 inches so I still have the original matching number barrel with poly choke, I had to modify the shorter barrel to make it work but it all function tested just fine with light field loads, friction rings set accordingly.

I got the 2 piece carrier from Numrich and returned the latch spring to them.


The other parts I got from MGW and they returned my money for those as well (hat tip to both vendors). The carriers pop into stock from time to time, I checked in pretty regular and it took a bit over 2 months to find them in stock. They are rather pricey, $111.24 part for my $250 shotgun, but I tell you I really like the way I can now load the tube without having to push the button. Added a 2 shot ext which surprisingly actually adds 3. Went from 4 in the tube and 1 in the chamber to 7 in the tube and 1 in the chamber.....that is a whole can right there brother.....in quite a tidy package.

I had a line on a 24 inch Browning slug barrel with rifle sights but it got bid up to $220 so I passed.....that would have been awesome.

Before
20211128_190809.jpg
20211216_230740.jpg 20211216_230759.jpg

I plan on adding ghost ring sights and a taller front post in the near future, that and a sling and I'm all set.

But then there is this.......


They are like Lay's potato chips and FAL's.....you can't have only one!!!
 
Last edited:
Top