New L1A1 Parts Kit - Update: kit has been built into a complete rifle

[Syntax Error]

Looks like in very good condition with English parts, can some of the more knowledgeable members of the Files tell me what parts are specifically what? What I'm curious is about the double serial number on the lower and the barrel markings.

Also, do you think the finish is original to the kit or has been refinished at some points? I notice that things like rear sight is parkerized and not painted, the gas piston is marked "ATC" and looks brand new, the bolt and carrier is parked with matching serial numbers that appear to be original finish judging from the serial markings.

[gunplumber]

Not sure what you're asking - it's been rebuilt several times. Doesn't make it good or bad, but it's not "new".

ATC I've asked before, it's 1980s, but what it stands for, I don't know. Found often on 1980s Parker Hale rebuilds.

Looks like a nice kit, if the 1959 barrel is sound, then you've got a nice set-up.

The (two different times) staking of the recoil plate rivets is FTR - depot level work. The hinge is late PH,

1 on gas block is from arsenal opening worn gas port to .106+

PH late rebuild hinge. Look underneath wor a halo which is from swaging and reboring hinge hole to spec (stretching)

Obvious 2nd coat of paint on carry handle and gas tube nut.

So yeah - arsenal rebuilt at least twice, but so what? If anything, that it was reintroduced to service means it was deemed "in spec" at the time.

[pl521]

Very nice Brit SLR kit. Good candidate for an all B59 SLR since major parts (lower, barrel, gas block are marked B59). Just need to find B59 small parts like, trigger, sear, gas nut, flash hide and charging handle.

Save matching B60 BCG as seed for an all B60 build.

UB = BSA
D w/ a bar = Enfield
PH = Parker Hale

[jam762]

Don’t bother looking for B59 gas nut. The early nuts took the long gas tube and are almost unobtainable. Use a B61 long nut and short tube. PLUS the nut has to be slid onto the tube before the barrel is timed, and once timed the nut and tube cannot be removed from the rifle for maintenance.

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by jam762

Don’t bother looking for B59 gas nut. The early nuts took the long gas tube and are almost unobtainable. Use a B61 long nut and short tube. PLUS the nut has to be slid onto the tube before the barrel is timed, and once timed the nut and tube cannot be removed from the rifle for maintenance.

Is it still possible to use a barrel vice to clamp the barrel down for torquing a new receiver on the barrel if the gas tube has to be kept on the gun due to the long gas tube/short gas plug combination, as you mention my kit has?

[jam762]

No. I clamped the bbl in vice with wood blocks at the flats and twisted the receiver on. It’s a bit of a pain in the arse. If I would’ve had aluminum vice jaws it would’ve been easier
No worries for you though, you have long gas nut and short tube(10.25”?). You’re gtg yawing bbl vice, just remove your tube and reinstall after you have the bbl timed.

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by jam762

No. I clamped the bbl in vice with wood blocks at the flats and twisted the receiver on. It’s a bit of a pain in the arse. If I would’ve had aluminum vice jaws it would’ve been easier
No worries for you though, you have long gas nut and short tube(10.25”?). You’re gtg yawing bbl vice, just remove your tube and reinstall after you have the bbl timed.

Ah, okay. I misread your initial post, so I do have the long gas plug and the short tube (the better combo), so I shouldn't have any issues clamping the barrel on the vice come installation time.

Thanks for all the info, especially Gunplumber for the info on the kit. I suspected it was an arsenal refinished kit at some point, but I think the finish is good enough to leave as-is, and I will need to source an inch receiver and paint it to match the finish of the rest of the kit. Hopefully if I'm lucky the headspace will work out with the existing locking shoulder but I won't know until I get a receiver to test.

[sturmgrenadiere]

Get a proper receiver jig/vice. It is negligence otherwise. I’ll lend you mine if it comes to it.

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by sturmgrenadiere

Get a proper receiver jig/vice. It is negligence otherwise. I’ll lend you mine if it comes to it.

Thanks! I will probably send you a PM once I'm ready to build the kit. First I have to find the correct receiver...

[imacoonass01]

Originally Posted by Syntax Error

Thanks! I will probably send you a PM once I'm ready to build the kit. First I have to find the correct receiver...

Being in Commyfonia, I am sure that you will need to do some stupid mods also.

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by imacoonass01

Being in Commyfonia, I am sure that you will need to do some stupid mods also.

Yes, I will probably go the FALMR "magazine lock" route. Seems to be the least-intrusive mod to make it California-legal. The shit we have to deal with here.

[enbloc8]

Are there any markings on the bottom of the TMH (lower) between the pistol grip and buttstock? Part of me is wondering if that lower was replaced at some point.

Seems like a fair number of BSA lowers have the restamped serial numbers...the original markings on BSAs were shallow and prone to wear, so I wonder if at some point an order went out to re-mark serials on all BSA rifles as they came in for rebuild.

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by enbloc8

Are there any markings on the bottom of the TMH (lower) between the pistol grip and buttstock? Part of me is wondering if that lower was replaced at some point.

Seems like a fair number of BSA lowers have the restamped serial numbers...the original markings on BSAs were shallow and prone to wear, so I wonder if at some point an order went out to re-mark serials on all BSA rifles as they came in for rebuild.

There are some markings on the bottom of the lower - 960-0071 and various acceptance markings near the tang screw such as the British arrow and a 4 and 7.

[enbloc8]

Nothing after the -0071 that would indicate a maker or year, e.g. D 65?

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by enbloc8

Nothing after the -0071 that would indicate a maker or year, e.g. D 65?

Nope - just the markings I specified unless if the "4" and "7" with the British arrow mark on the tang of the lower receiver frame is a date.

[waco16]

The 4 and/or 7 stamped into the tang of the trigger mechanism housing is an Armourers mark indicating that two modifications have been carried out.

The 4 indicates that the rifle has a two-piece firing pin fitted to the breech block
The 7 indicates that a modification has been done to the return spring screw

These numbers were also sometimes stamped inside the butt trap

[gunplumber]

Originally Posted by waco16

4 indicates that the rifle has a two-piece firing pin fitted to the breech block
The 7 indicates that a modification has been done to the return spring screw

These numbers were also sometimes stamped inside the butt trap

Interesting, I've had trap doors with 47 marked on them.

Are there any other numbers? I have several lowers with 47, so I can assume when the mod was done, they wore plastic furniture.

And what exactly done to return spring screw?

Return spring tube got drilled for drainage after hydraulic pressure ruptured enough stocks,

And there was the change to the return spring screw with the addition of the spigot. I wonder if that was it.

[enbloc8]

Originally Posted by waco16

The 4 and/or 7 stamped into the tang of the trigger mechanism housing is an Armourers mark indicating that two modifications have been carried out.

The 4 indicates that the rifle has a two-piece firing pin fitted to the breech block
The 7 indicates that a modification has been done to the return spring screw

These numbers were also sometimes stamped inside the butt trap

What does an "8" stamped on the tang (forward of the "4" and "7") mean?

[enbloc8]

Originally Posted by Syntax Error

Nope - just the markings I specified unless if the "4" and "7" with the British arrow mark on the tang of the lower receiver frame is a date.

I ask because I recall seeing a "BSA"-marked trigger housing, dated 1959, that had actually been replaced with an Enfield housing from about 1965. It had a similar deep in-line serial number to yours, though it had not been renumbered or FTR'd.

Most BSA rifles that I've seen had much shallower markings...the kind that were probably easy to fade or distort with a good sandblast to get off all that Suncorite 259 during a rebuild.

[waco16]

Originally Posted by gunplumber

Interesting, I've had trap doors with 47 marked on them.

Are there any other numbers? I have several lowers with 47, so I can assume when the mod was done, they wore plastic furniture.

And what exactly done to return spring screw?

Return spring tube got drilled for drainage after hydraulic pressure ruptured enough stocks,

And there was the change to the return spring screw with the addition of the spigot. I wonder if that was it.

The 7 indicates a modification that has been done to the return spring screw so that when you unscrew it with the correct screwdriver with rod, the screw won't undo the whole return spring tube from the trigger mechanism housing.

[gunplumber]

Originally Posted by waco16

The 7 indicates a modification that has been done to the return spring screw so that when you unscrew it with the correct screwdriver with rod, the screw won't undo the whole return spring tube from the trigger mechanism housing.

That's a weird one. What modification? I have the complete REME notes for the L1A1 through 87 or 89 and recall nothing on this subject.

[waco16]

Originally Posted by gunplumber

That's a weird one. What modification? I have the complete REME notes for the L1A1 through 87 or 89 and recall nothing on this subject.

The info came from someone with more qualified than me on the subject - I happened to stumble on an old milsurps post and discovered it:

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=26810

[Newtomefals]

I been looking for a ub59 lower for 2 months and there it is with your kit.LoL..I have a ub59 kit also in very nice condition. All ub 59 except my lower is ub58.
I may just settle for that being close enough. Nice kit

[y18376]

Peter Laidler was often a knowledge source for Ian Skennerton when he wrote his books.

Originally Posted by waco16

The info came from someone with more qualified than me on the subject - I happened to stumble on an old milsurps post and discovered it:

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=26810

[enbloc8]

Originally Posted by y18376

Peter Laidler was often a knowledge source for Ian Skennerton when he wrote his books.

I've been following Peter's posts for years. His knowledge of Commonwealth arms, and "how things were really done in the field", is fantastic.

[Syntax Error]

Picture of the underside of the trigger housing which shoes the 4 and 7 markings

[HenryIV]

Thanks for the useful info in this thread. The 4 and 7 mark info is really good stuff.

[gunplumber]

pic of 4/7 with wood stock.



I've stripped well over a thousand lowers and can see no difference whatsoever in return spring plug/screws, other than the wood stock vs the plastic stock (spigot). Nothing suggests a modification that makes it less likely to unscrew the return spring tube. After 30 years of doing this , I've NEVER had an L1A1 return spring tube come loose. About 50-50 on FAL.

I think the referenced "authority" is mistaken and the 7 symbolizes something else. Perhaps the return spring tube drilled for water drainage. There is simply no difference between UK spigot screws.

[Syntax Error]

So I shined a light through the gas port and noticed no light was going to the barrel. Is there no gas port drilled in my barrel or could it be some built-up gunk or crud blocking the gas port hole? Not sure. Tried poking the gas port hole through the front of the gas block and couldn't really get anything unstuck if there is something stuck, so there is a possibility the barrel on this kit isn't drilled for a gas port? I guess I'll know after the first firing if the gas port (if blocked with crud) will clear out with the first round or not.

[tiblow]

It's likely drilled and fine. Try spraying some pressurized air down the gas block or try a little spray aerosol lubricant then look down the muzzle and see it the spray lube is dripping down into the barrel. It'll cycle...these things are like tanks they'll work! Let Gunplumber builder it for you he does a hell of a job!

That's a NICE L1A1 kit you've got there, super looking really, too bad you have to muck it up with Calif. rule additions....

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by tiblow

That's a NICE L1A1 kit you've got there, super looking really, too bad you have to muck it up with Calif. rule additions....

Fortunately the CA-compliance mods I would have to do to make it legal here are all non-permanent and easily reversible if needed.

It's coming together nicely. The barrel unfortunately overtimed at around 11:50 on the DSA L1A1 Brit-cut receiver I've acquired so I had to get a .060" timing shim from Gunplumber. Also the headspace is pretty tight on the rifle at around ~.0249" according to the pin gages and the Forster 7.62 NATO headspace gauges that I'm using.

The magazines also fit, but tightly, and this appears to be a known issue with the DSA forged L1A1 brit cut receivers. The cocking handle was a tight fit and I had to file the back side of the cocking handle slide but it fits in the receiver nicely with very little slop. I might have to give it a little bit more slop since it's rubbing against the left side back of the receiver and wearing the finish more than I would like. The takedown lever seems to sit proud of the recoil plate when the upper and lower come together, which I've heard is where you would want it anyways.

Once I get the appropriate locking shoulder (Gunplumber sells .0249" locking shoulders fortunately) and get the barrel timed with the appropriate shim, then I will spraypaint the receiver to match the parts kit and it should be done. Still need to see if the barrel is actually cut for a gas port. I'm hoping it is, otherwise this is just a pull-action until I can get that done.

[Syntax Error]

And, here is the completed rifle with the receiver painted to match the kit and locking shoulder installed.







Had to install one of those "FALMR" magazine locks for CA-compliance (), but otherwise the gun is unmolested. At least it's not a permanent modification to the gun.

[def90]

Originally Posted by Syntax Error

So I shined a light through the gas port and noticed no light was going to the barrel. Is there no gas port drilled in my barrel or could it be some built-up gunk or crud blocking the gas port hole? Not sure. Tried poking the gas port hole through the front of the gas block and couldn't really get anything unstuck if there is something stuck, so there is a possibility the barrel on this kit isn't drilled for a gas port? I guess I'll know after the first firing if the gas port (if blocked with crud) will clear out with the first round or not.

Its going to have a port drilled in it. You can stick a rod/wire at an angle down through the port on the top of the gasblock where the regulator is installed all the way through to the barrel. If the gas plug is installed make sure it is in the right position, it can be installed to either let gas through or be turned 180 degrees to block the gas port.

[def90]

Originally Posted by gunplumber

pic of 4/7 with wood stock.



I've stripped well over a thousand lowers and can see no difference whatsoever in return spring plug/screws, other than the wood stock vs the plastic stock (spigot). Nothing suggests a modification that makes it less likely to unscrew the return spring tube. After 30 years of doing this , I've NEVER had an L1A1 return spring tube come loose. About 50-50 on FAL.

I think the referenced "authority" is mistaken and the 7 symbolizes something else. Perhaps the return spring tube drilled for water drainage. There is simply no difference between UK spigot screws.

The only way you could make it so that the tube doesn’t come off with the screw would be to stake the tube itself. I don’t see how a modification to the screw would prevent the tube from coming out, you are going to get dirt/corrosion in those threads. The modification would have to have been made to the tube/lower interface.

[fal308762]

Originally Posted by Syntax Error

And, here is the completed rifle with the receiver painted to match the kit and locking shoulder installed.







Had to install one of those "FALMR" magazine locks for CA-compliance (), but otherwise the gun is unmolested. At least it's not a permanent modification to the gun.

what are you doing about the flashider/bayonet lug and the 20 round magazine. the rules here are stupid. nice looking rifle

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by fal308762

what are you doing about the flashider/bayonet lug and the 20 round magazine. the rules here are stupid. nice looking rifle

It's a fixed magazine rifle and the magazine is blocked to 10 rounds?

[crashmaniac]

Fine looking weapon, have you test fired it yet?

[Syntax Error]

Originally Posted by crashmaniac

Fine looking weapon, have you test fired it yet?

Planning to this weekend. Hopefully nothing blows up.