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Old March 04, 2020, 08:26   #1
51 dodge coupe
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flash hider washer

I have a 1968 austrailian l1a1 just had my gunsmith disassemble it and and do the black cerecote on it. mine had the paint on it and I didn't care for it at all. I knew before it was taken apart it had a wiggle in the flash hider. after putting it back together I was able to turn the flash hider one half turn past full stop. the bayonet lug sits directly on top of the barrel I don't believe there is any type of washer in there any suggestions? all information will be greatly appreciated.
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Old March 04, 2020, 08:32   #2
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without any washer, and without the timing gauge, there is no way to tell what size positioning washer you need.

If you have a washer, you can guess - about 1 o'clock per size and you want to hand tighten to 1 o'clock short of bottom dead center.

So if you had a #12 and are timing 180 degrees off (six clock positions), you'd need to go 7 shorter or a #4.

With no starting point, it's anybody's guess.

https://www.arizonaresponsesystems.c...ning-washer-1/
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Old March 04, 2020, 09:35   #3
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Do what I've done -- buy a whole range of timing washers from gunplumber and use the one that works, and save the others for your next build. The likelihood of needing the same size twice in a row is very low.
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Old March 04, 2020, 09:41   #4
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and just because you can go half a rev past the correct position doesn't necessarily mean that there's no washer stuck in the FH. It could simply be the wrong washer, or the threads were cut too short or too far, etc. etc. Getting out a washer that's carbon and old grease or whatever stuck in there is a trick that requires patience, in my experience.
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Old March 26, 2020, 06:48   #5
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After many years of wanting to replace to replace the stock Century Arms muzzle break on my L1A1 (R1A1); I "pulled the trigger". Was surprised how easy the pinned break came off after grinding two slots, 180 deg apart, and splitting it with a chisel. The pin just fell out of the hole. Didn't even touch the threads with the grinder. Cleaned up great.

My question:

I have a .157 washer which puts the bayo lug at 12 O'clock and .161 washer which puts the bayo lug at 9 O'clock, hand tight. If I remove the washer completely, the lug is 15 deg short of BDC.

Can I install the flash hider without a washer?
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Old March 26, 2020, 08:20   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acgeorge View Post
After many years of wanting to replace to replace the stock Century Arms muzzle break on my L1A1 (R1A1); I "pulled the trigger". Was surprised how easy the pinned break came off after grinding two slots, 180 deg apart, and splitting it with a chisel. The pin just fell out of the hole. Didn't even touch the threads with the grinder. Cleaned up great.

My question:

I have a .157 washer which puts the bayo lug at 12 O'clock and .161 washer which puts the bayo lug at 9 O'clock, hand tight. If I remove the washer completely, the lug is 15 deg short of BDC.

Can I install the flash hider without a washer?
you can, it's not going to hurt anything, but I suspect you are reaching the bottom of the threads on the barrel and not the muzzle face.
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Old March 26, 2020, 10:39   #7
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Hello,

You can buy positioning washers size 1 to 12 from Marstar see the link : https://marstar.ca/product/positioni...ld-separately/

I did change the flash hider on my Aussie L2A1, I ordered the 12 positioning washers. After I found the right one, I sent back the 11 others for refund.
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Old March 26, 2020, 12:29   #8
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you can, it's not going to hurt anything, but I suspect you are reaching the bottom of the threads on the barrel and not the muzzle face.
Didn't think of that. I will try to fabricate a crude .005" washer from shim stock, and see if it sets me back further from BDC, or no change? It will be interesting.
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Old March 26, 2020, 15:34   #9
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There are two sizes to a number, example 9, 9A, 10, 10A etc.

Once it's all lined up proper, install the retaining washer and retaining pin. The pin will require centre-popping on both sides to ensure it stays in place. Best if you have a friend help you there as the rifle upper needs to be held level on the anvil part of your vice. Centre-pop and flip, and centre-pop again. The retaining pin is now secure, and your flash eliminator will be all G2G.
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Old March 26, 2020, 18:20   #10
acgeorge
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you can, it's not going to hurt anything, but I suspect you are reaching the bottom of the threads on the barrel and not the muzzle face.
Yup! You are correct. Only had .020" shim stock, did not change my position. Definitely bottoming on threads. I did learn something, the .020 shim with the .157 washer moved me approx. 190 deg, just 10 deg shy of BDC. With the .161 washer, I ended up at approx. 3:30 o'clock.

Seems I need approx. .177" washer, so either #8A or #9.
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Last edited by acgeorge; March 26, 2020 at 19:56.
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