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Old February 15, 2020, 15:54   #1
ActionYobbo
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locking shoulder installing

what sort of press should I get for installing the locking shoulder?
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Old February 15, 2020, 16:33   #2
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You can do it with a hammer and punch, but an arbor press works like a champ.

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Old February 15, 2020, 16:40   #3
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A vise will work as well.
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Old February 15, 2020, 17:09   #4
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Quote:
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A vise will work as well.

how do you stop the locking shoulder from rotating?
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Old February 15, 2020, 17:30   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ActionYobbo View Post
how do you stop the locking shoulder from rotating?
If you are experiencing the shoulder rotating when pressing with a vise, you can create a "jig" of sorts using a piece of flat metal as a jaw-insert, and drill the flat metal to create a recess the same shape as the dog-leg, or block the dog-leg in some other suitable manner.
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Old February 15, 2020, 17:40   #6
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how do you stop the locking shoulder from rotating?
Not a clamp...a vise. Use a wood block on the left side to support it against the stationary side of the jaw. The take a narrow piece of flat steel to buck the other jaw as you push the locking shoulder. Keep it on the shaft portion and not on the dog leg. As you go in and get past the 1st hole start it in the the other and check alignment. If it's off a little take a crescent wrench to rotate to the proper position as you now are closer to the dog leg slot. Use anti seize and make sure there is not a lot of park in the holes or the locking shoulder engagement surfaces.
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Old February 15, 2020, 19:29   #7
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As you go in and get past the 1st hole
start it in the the other and check alignment.

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Old February 15, 2020, 20:12   #8
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Don't laugh. I have taken a piece of copper bar stock and seated it with a hammer. Lately just use my 12 ton HF hydronautic press. Have to shim up the wood blocks to keep the pressure off of the CH rails
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Old February 15, 2020, 20:17   #9
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I don't like too much mechanically multiplied force, it's too easy to screw something up because you can't feel how much force is being applied. I tap them in with a hammer and punch, turn the dog leg when it's close if needed.
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Old February 15, 2020, 20:21   #10
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I used a 1 ton arbor press from Habor Freight, cost $60

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-...ress-3552.html

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Old February 15, 2020, 22:39   #11
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I don't like too much mechanically multiplied force, it's too easy to screw something up because you can't feel how much force is being applied. I tap them in with a hammer and punch, turn the dog leg when it's close if needed.
^^^^^^ THIS, THIS, THIS. ^^^^^^^
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Old February 15, 2020, 23:06   #12
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I agree - any mechanical means of inserting a LS, unless it includes a force meter, doesn't give one a very good feeling for if there is a "problem". I use a hammer like in the Australian Armorer supplement (for those who think a hammer is somehow "bad" it is factory taught!). I can definitely tell if there is binding like on the defective DSA receivers with under-size LS holes. On those you also need to try the dog leg inverted, because the dogleg recess is also undersize and tapered.

With a hammer, I can tell if it's too loose and needs an OS shoulder, or too tight and the hole needs to be reamed or flap-sanded (usually on the FAR side only).

A tiny crescent wrench aligns the dog leg prior to final smack.

Don't smack the shoulder directly with a hammer as chances are you'll bust off the dogleg. Use a roll pin punch for FAL shoulders (with the tip slightly modified to better fit the hole in the shoulder), or a brass punch for the L1A1 (no hole).
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Old February 18, 2020, 07:54   #13
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I'm with Mark on this. I haven't built as many as he has but have built a few dozen.
I use a 4oz. ball peen hammer to install, and a small Crescent wrench to line up the dogleg.

A press just doesn't give the feel needed and you could easily use too much force and damage something.
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