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Old January 18, 2020, 20:43   #151
hkshooter
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In terms of grips, today I usually replace the A2 grip (which is OK) with the Magpul MOE grip, which I consider to be about the best available today (it fills the hand more and sets the hand back slightly in relation to the trigger, and it's pretty cheap (not $1, but whatever)).

Forrest
I like this grip also and have it installed on a second AR. In the past I've used the A2 with a spacer that moves it back about a half inch and like that set up fine.
This rifle is all A2 and just for fun and originality I opted to use the A2 as the factory did. Sometimes doing something old school is being different.
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Old January 18, 2020, 22:16   #152
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Yeah, I replaced the MAGPUL grip today with an A2 grip. The skinnier grip works better for me.

The MAGPUL grip was OK, but I fugked up my right wrist in a lawn mower accident several years ago. That evolved into daily wrist pain. If I have to grip anything firmly, it hurts more if the object has larger girth. Oddly, my eyesight has improved since I quit squeezing large-girth objects as often.
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Old January 18, 2020, 23:00   #153
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LGS gives me A2 grips by the box along with milspec forearms with delta rings and end cap. They/we swap so many out they just turn into useless clutter if I don't haul off. I prefer them on non specialty rifles and use on 80% of my builds.
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Old January 18, 2020, 23:39   #154
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You can use a fake NY flash hider so all the foo is directed downrange instead of up or to the side, and I think it will be less blasty.
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Old January 19, 2020, 14:24   #155
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Yeah, I replaced the MAGPUL grip today with an A2 grip. The skinnier grip works better for me.

The MAGPUL grip was OK, but I fugked up my right wrist in a lawn mower accident several years ago. That evolved into daily wrist pain. If I have to grip anything firmly, it hurts more if the object has larger girth. Oddly, my eyesight has improved since I quit squeezing large-girth objects as often.
A lot of folks, including myself, really like the A1 grip over the A2.

In regard to an A1 grip, if you want something with a little more girth (like the early to mid 1990’s Colt A2 grips), you can keep an eye out for GM contract A1 grips (they have a cross pattern stamp inside grip (cross, like Red Cross symbol).
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Old January 19, 2020, 17:26   #156
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The coldest I ever shot an AR (a Colt SP-1) was about -25 degrees F (when I lived in Newcomb, NY, a near-lifetime ago). I had wiped all the lube out of the receiver (I usually slather the interior of the upper and BCG with LSA). It worked just fine, except that it hurt my cheek and finger. If I'm remembering correctly, I think that I was shooting Norma 55gr SP ammo (which was reasonably hot).



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Yup. *Almost* no lube = you "wiped it out".

That's about the best you can do, and hopefully it's built right and broken in.

I've never shot at -25F. I'd be inside feeding the wood stove. The coldest I've shot is about 6*F. I was freezing my balls off, and wanted to go home. Or at least get in the van and turn on the heat.
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Old January 19, 2020, 19:30   #157
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I have shot fox, coyote and such in Western NC mountains with temperaturesome low as teens using a varmint build AR. Have also used same rifle in Colorado and Montana during winter. While it's illegal for out of state residents to take fur bearing game in Montana and some other states no matter the permits try to apply for have friends that a National Park Rangers in four western states and on occasion they have an issue. Can be a particular fur bearing wild animal turned varmint and encroaching on areas they do not want an overly brave vermin that won't be encouraged to leave, easily trapped or wounded and better put out of its misery.

Even when we go back country skiing or ice climbing in an area with an issue or report of a wounded animal in addition to their duty weapon and radio which they always have as if go into the park they are technically supposed to be on alert and do their job if required. One year went in with two Rangers and we were less than 100 yards up the trail when we saw a coyote that looked as if it had been hit by a car and when they pulled the 223 bolt rifle off one of their packs it would not fire. No matter how many times they turned the handle and tried firing pin was not denting primers. Told them had an AR 15 in truck if wanted me to ski down and be back in five minutes or less while they kept it in sight.

Retrieved an 18" White Oak Armament 5.56 Wylde loaded with 69 grain SMKs that was truck rifle for the trip. (Between 2004 and 2009) They were sure it would not fire in the cold but first round busted off and rifle cycled next round into chamber ready to keep working. They were surprised but told them cleaned it twice with carb and choke cleaner that leaves all parts dry as a bone and didn't add any lubrication to the well broken in all purpose rifle. Told them even using their high speed/low drag milspec cold weather weapons oil will freeze up especially when it's cold and may have gotten some moisture in the action.

Ever since they let me put my rifle on their pack when we go into the woods as long as other friends who are Park Rangers. Also have friends with plenty of property and have had plenty of oportunity to test my firearms in cold conditions at altitude. Have not had any issues but also keep a bottle of Pedros Ice Wax so if shoot till start warming up the rifle may put a drop here and there if anything feels like it's dragging or sluggish. We get temperatures as low as 10° to 20° below zero on occasion above 5,000 feet in extreme North Georgia and Western North Carolina. Have been all over the world and coldest I ever felt was one weekend on the north face of Rabun Bald ice climbing when my thermometer on backpack which bottomed out at -20° had totally bottomed out.

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According to The*Weather*Channel, the*coldest temperature*was 17 degrees below zero. The*coldest temperature ever*was*recorded*Jan. 27, 1940, reported in the city of Chatsworth, in Murray County,*Ga
Chatsworth is at 750 ft above sea level so imagine if someone had been recording temperatures in the 5,000 to 6,000 ft range. Minus teens are not unheard of on our thermometers when looking for frozen waterfalls on the north faces of tallest mountains. I have run my pack pistol, truck pistol and rifle several times when we'll below zero and they always run.
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Old January 19, 2020, 20:35   #158
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Keeping this in context, my rifles FIRED just fine.

The issue was occasional SHORT CYCLING with an H3 buffer in each rifle at temps just above freezing.

I have full confidence that each rifle will cycle 100% with the basic carbine buffer- albeit with a bit more blastiness, and abuse to the brass.

I can’t help folks who have complete misfire issues due to globbing the firing pin channel up with god-knows-what hardened schplubb.
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Old January 19, 2020, 20:55   #159
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Keeping this in context, my rifles FIRED just fine.

The issue was occasional SHORT CYCLING with an H3 buffer in each rifle at temps just above freezing.

I have full confidence that each rifle will cycle 100% with the basic carbine buffer- albeit with a bit more blastiness, and abuse to the brass.

I can’t help folks who have complete misfire issues due to globbing the firing pin channel up with god-knows-what hardened schplubb.
Are you and Blasty going to Richmond tomorrow?

There's a reason very smart people made the guns the way they did for the gov't. The farther one deviates from the original design the more likely it is to cause a failure.
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Old January 19, 2020, 21:04   #160
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Those are some photos of nice AR builds boys.

I’m working on one myself.. most of the parts I have accumulated are in one big box..I am waiting for the mail man to drop off the final missing piece... then I can go to work
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Old January 20, 2020, 00:50   #161
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I was playing around with Blasty and his brother yesterday in the cold.

About 34 degrees.

Both were dirty from a recent previous range trip (~50 rounds dirtiness).
On the recent previous range trip, it was 65 degrees.
Both rifles cycled just dandy on recent previous range trip. Both were totally clean on that previous trip.
Previous trip, firing done from a mix of sling-supported prone, and casual kneeling.

Both guns equipped with H3 buffers (nominally 5.2 ounces per the vendor - but 5.4 ounces on my postal scale).

Both guns have 16" barrels.
Blasty is a carbine-length gas system.
Blasty's brother is a mid-length gas system.

Both guns have a very light coat of Harbor-Freight synthetic grease on buffer spring. Very light.
Otherwise, both guns lightly lubed with Break-Free CLP. Very light.
Both guns have Geissele National Match two-stage triggers, also lubed with the Harbor Freight synthetic grease.

Both guns malfunctioned yesterday!

Short-cycling. Only a few times - but that's a few too many for Blasty purpose.
All firing done from benchrest (arghhh!). Rifles rested across top of ammo can with random garment as a pad betweeen forearm and can.)

Shooting Federal M193 ammo.

Blasty would just straight-up short-cycle. Rifle would fire, eject, and reset hammer - but did not pick up the next round from the magazine.

Blasty's brother would do this really weird thing where it would do the same thing Blasty did, but it would lock-back the bolt on a still-full magazine. I could then hit the bolt-hold-open lever, and back in business. I really don't have a clue how the BHO-lever was getting into the action. This happened three times.

Anyhow, I went straight home, and put standard-weight basic carbine buffers back in each rifle.

I sure hope I get this all sorted out before the Big Blasty Bonanza kicks off.

Also contemplating backup-aiming-device in case my beloved 1-4 Leupold Firedot takes a shit during the Bonanza.

You are trying to have your cake and eat it too.

A good cheese cake is best cold.

A good German chocolate cake is great just under room temperature.

A room temp cheese cake sucks... O.K., a cold German chocolate cake is still good.... got me there.

An M4 issue carbine might be considered a “little blasty” at 70 degrees F.... but it will fire reliably at -20 degrees F.

You build your rifle to meet your expectations.

I’d wager that if you used an H1 (possibly H2) buffer, you wouldn’t have had an issue.

A soldier can swap an H3 buffer into a military issue M4, and it will likely run like a sewing machine in optimal conditions. Toss in some inclement conditions, and that soldier is going home in a body bag when their rifle jammed..... that same rifle would have been reliable in inclement conditions with an H1 buffer... but it would have been a “little blasty” in optimal conditions.
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Old January 20, 2020, 10:31   #162
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The market for shiny fishing lure parts that cost two to five times what say a Colt made USGI bolt carrier group costs has changed so much that when people use just one part that deviates significantly foment milspec it starts the entire chain binding up. Recognizing this phenomenon some barrel makers open up their ports while some go with milspec diameter no matter what length gas system is and where the peak pressure impulse will occur in barrel. Does a rifle have peak barrel pressure that is double what required at point where an oversized port has been drilled or does barrel has a milspec gas port drilled at a location where pressure curve is so low that the rifle doesn't have a chance for proper operation even if all else is right?

Screwing together an AR used to be simple as Legos but now a builder has to start a build with a plan. Too many just start buying parts, often based on a flashy ad or fact it was the cheapest unit they could find or the most expensive part. If I go pull the fuel rail off the top of one of my Dodge trucks and bolt on a Ford factory fuel rail with a mix of adapters the truck will have an entire host of issues to solve just like people adding a high flow CAT-Back exhaust system and not realizing their engine management computer needs totally reprogramming or adding a set of 16"×36" wheels/tires to their factory Jeep and expect the factory gear ratio in differentials to turn those big tires. I can point at the same concept from dozens of hobbies where someone deviates from factory engineer specifications on one part and end up having to remove or swap a dozen other parts to make it run.

This is why all of my builds start with a milspec M16 full auto carrier. If I score a Colt carrier with its original bolt have a tendency to put the Colt bolt in my hoard of premium parts like I would put a Palmetto bolt in the pile of bolts for end of world spares or give aways when someone I know breaks their bolt. For the most part I use an LMT bolt but do use ARP Super Bolts in 6.8 on occasion as we're engineered specifically for use in a 6.8.

I expect if shoot a lot of full power ammo in my 458 SOCOM will break bolts but the rifle was designed by Tromex for USSOCOM to be used as a subsonic suppressor round to drop skinnies jacked up on amphetamines in Mogadishu with a single round during fast entry and exit snatched and grabs. It's a very specifically designed rifle which people are now trying to build load data for highest power ammo they can run through it and will pay in broken parts. If the key doesn't fit a lock don't expect tapping it in with a hammer will allow you to unlock the door. 458 SOCOM was designed as a subsonic rifle and while I have fired a few rounds of factory full power ammo 95% of rounds through my suppressed 458 SOCOMs are subsonic and 90% of my ammo stocked for them is subsonic.

People build a basic milspec rifle with 16" barrel, carbine gas then drop the lightest shiny fishing lure bolt in and do not contemplate the implications till it doesn't run properly or eventually breaks their expensive bolt. I have buffer groups that are so specific that manufacturer states clearly for 5.56 only but see 300 BO builds online using that buffer. I have three 5.56 only buffers from Battle Arms Development of which two are in 5.56 rifles but have one in a 6.8 as a test rifle but it's a range gun only. It's not in a place where may be used for home defense or carried as truck rifle as manufacturer says it's eventually going to break if able to make it run. Over 1,000 rounds later it's running fine but I spent a lot of time with a flow chart to come up with a gas port size and length that the gas block sees 5.56 port pressure so with the milspec carrier, top quality bolt it should not see any more pressure or violence at buffer but the bolt is seeing 6.8 pressure.

So many rifles I troubleshoot builder bought cheapest everything they could or most expensive everything or mix of the two. Parts are mostly non milspec and takes an engineer or someone who troubleshoots often to figure the mess out and when tell the guy with $2,000 or more in parts need to replace a couple with milspec he freaks out about not having his shiny fishing lure part or the guy with cheapest parts that he needs to spend a little more money he freaks out as spent his budget promised wife would not exceed but the rifle doesn't work.

It is easy to use non milspec specialty parts but have to carefully analyze each ones impact and be sure you balance the system to compensate for the changes that part imparts. Then we buy the rifles some kitchen table builder has finally abandoned and have to decide if it's a part out and total rebuild or track down the issue and fix it. Some can open port based on pressure curve chart showing it's undergassed at port location and move along. Some you can see based on port pressure chart that port is located at point of barrel the pressure peaks and when measure port barrel maker went over spec so a simple swap of adjustable gas block and tune fixes it. Some take a couple parts swaps then have acquired several rifles I totally tore them down and put all the parts in the used parts bins in parts locker then used the receiver and maybe the furniture to build a nearly complete different rifle.

When starting a build sit down with the specs that a true milspec rifle closest to your goal engineers say are correct and if any part deviates from milspec then examine what parts it directly interacts with and what changes its going to impart on system. After looking at your BCG and selected buffer it could be super simple to see your going to need less gas or more gas for proper function. Based on that look at a barrel pressure chart then select your barrel length, gas length and port size to give pressure you need at port to move your reciprocating parts at proper speed and distance which will usually result in a non milspec rifle that runs.

Hunting down barrel pressure curve charts for anything from 204 Ruger, 22 Nosler, 6.8, 450 or 458 is not that hard now and can solve most of your issues on paper by just doing proper planning before ordering random mix of parts and expect them to work. It's not hard to determine what your build is going to need in port pressure and dwell time so your able to determine if need carbine, intermediate, rifle or rifle plus and rough port size before you begin. Don't figure these parameters and may likely find yourself swapping parts randomly till accidently trip across a combination that works. It's also why there are what used to be non functioning rifles purchased for 50% of net worth of their parts which are nothing but random parts in my parts bins rather than rifles now. Eventually each of those parts will be correct for a budget build rifle or something. Bottom line is most issues can be forecast with a flow chart and some research before ordering parts and build ever begins.
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Old January 20, 2020, 13:45   #163
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You are trying to have your cake and eat it too.

A good cheese cake is best cold.

A good German chocolate cake is great just under room temperature.

A room temp cheese cake sucks... O.K., a cold German chocolate cake is still good.... got me there.

An M4 issue carbine might be considered a “little blasty” at 70 degrees F.... but it will fire reliably at -20 degrees F.

You build your rifle to meet your expectations.

I’d wager that if you used an H1 (possibly H2) buffer, you wouldn’t have had an issue.

A soldier can swap an H3 buffer into a military issue M4, and it will likely run like a sewing machine in optimal conditions. Toss in some inclement conditions, and that soldier is going home in a body bag when their rifle jammed..... that same rifle would have been reliable in inclement conditions with an H1 buffer... but it would have been a “little blasty” in optimal conditions.
Quoted for Awesomeness.
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Old January 20, 2020, 14:31   #164
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Quoted for Awesomeness.
About sums it up, doesn't it...?

Forrest
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Old February 07, 2020, 18:27   #165
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https://pasteboard.co/ITE8lD6.jpg

Here is mine... just one missing piece to the puzzle..I’m saving my dimes for an Eotech
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Old February 07, 2020, 23:06   #166
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Finished the upper for another blasty lil carbine at work today while hemmed up inside due to weather and needed a break. 13.7" Noveske 5R 6.8 spc II barrel with Superlative Arms adjustable bleed off gas block and pinned Noveske Flaming Pig which with bolt locked up measures 16.125" from bolt face to end of flash can. Bet it's going to puke some fire with only 13.7" of barrel to burn all the powder a 6.8 holds and a flash can to spew any excess out the snout.

Pulled a lower, A2 pistol grip, Franklin binary trigger, milspec carbine buffer tube, Magpul stock and an H2 carbine buffer for first run at range. Will have a carbine, H1, H3 and a Slash Heavy Buffer when take to range and tune gas. Fairly sure it will like the H2 which is why it will be first to go in to see how it runs. Tempted to put it on an existing lower but if do might get lazy and not finish the complete rifle causing me to tune it to a lower that won't be permanent. With snow predicted tomorrow and rain for Monday through Wednesday should be easy to finish up the lower in next few days.
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Old February 13, 2020, 19:17   #167
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My ultimate SHTF gun is:

Colt 6920 that started off as a bare bones barreled upper with stripped carbine lower and buffer tube with no stock.. I dumped the Colt factor 16” govt profile barrel for a Remington SOCOM because I couldn’t get better than 4” groups at 100 m with the Colt factory barrel.. I added a DD RIS II FSP rail, KAC BUIS,Magpul grip, QDC rail mounted sling adapter with a Chinese cheap Vickers type sling,Replica 3 prong sure fire flash hider that my neighbor welded for me, Larue 2 stage trigger, exos ti7 butt that I can put extra cr123’s in , I added an air soft replica LA5 PEQ for the 300 lumen white light and visible red dot laser that I was able to get to zero by taking the unit apart and modified the internals with JB Weld... I’m getting an used eotech for it and calling it good.
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