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Old September 02, 2019, 09:45   #1
W.E.G.
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blasty little carbine

Its actually not that blasty with the A2 flash hider.

I thought I'd start a thread on this gun because its Labor Day, and I'm bored, and I can't afford an expensive holiday vacation. Not that I'm into going to the beach and looking at fat people in their underwear anyway. That means I'm stuck here with all you assholes.

I was bored one day last winter, so I picked up the blasty little carbine from a member here on the marketplace. Looked unfired when I purchased.

I made some significant mods to it since purchase.

Took it to the range for first time yesterday. Except for initial sighters, it kept three magazines on a sheet of copier paper at 100 yards (fired prone, with sling and without agonizing over the precision of each shot).

I'm having two problems that have to be resolved. Problem 1 is two stovepipe malfunctions. One stovepipe somewhere mid-magazine on second magazine, and another stovepipe somewhere mid-magazine on third magazine. Problem 2 is fail-to-lock-back on second magazine.
  • First two magazines were 10 rounds M193 (55-grain FMJ) ball from a 20-round magazine.
  • Last magazine was 20 rounds SS109 (62-grain green-tip) ball from a 30-round magazine.

I'm thinking its overgassed. Running standard carbine buffer and spring (or whatever came with the gun - I assume standard-spec). I ordered an H3 heavy buffer last night. Hopefully, that will slow the bolt down a bit and let the brass clear the port before the bolt rebounds - and also allow bolt-catch to rise in time to catch the bolt. Unless the problem is actually NOT ENOUGH gas or some other shit. In which case, I suppose I'll reload the parts-cannon, and keep firing until.... well... until.


I'm having two more non-critical problems that really don't have to be resolved.
  • The rear takedown pin is an absolute bitch to get to move. I can't get it to move without using a punch. Tightest takedown pin I've ever personally encountered. So tight and persistent that I dremeled a divot in the end of the pin so I can get a punch on it, and beat on it without having the punch walk while I'm beating. I use the trap-door grip to house a punch (and also a T-10 Torx bit, and earplugs). The upper seems to be the issue - takedown pin fits with normal tension when this lower is installed on different AR uppers. I might wallow the take-down hole in the upper receiver if the fit doesn't loosen-up on its own.
  • The other issue is the weird selector. You can see in the pic below that the selector stops in the FIRE position at an angle a good bit off from vertical. I inspected to confirm that this position does not interfere with the movement of the trigger. No interference. The cutout on the selector shaft for the tail of the trigger inside the receiver appears to be in correct orientation when the selector stops on the detent for the FIRE position. I've just never seen a selector that stops with the lever of the selector in that angled orientation.

As-received, it was a basic Frankenstein gun.
  • Anderson lower.
  • Mystery upper (RGuns? - see handguard pic below) with round free-float handguard which was the cheese-grater-free attraction of the gun for me.
  • Lightweight barrel - fat in front of the gas block, but thin under handguard.
  • Magpul grip.
  • Basic collapsible buttstock (replaced by me)
  • Basic trigger (replaced by me)
  • No sights.


I added:
  • Magpul UBR generation 2 buttstock (I wrote about this at length in another thread at http://falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=437985 (TLDR version: Its better than the Gen 1 in some ways, and inferior in some ways)
  • Geissele national match trigger (sweet trigger)
  • SIG Romeo 5 sight (lots of issues with assymetric "bloom" unless turned to dim setting)
  • Para-cord cheap-bastard sling swivels

Pics follow.
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Old September 02, 2019, 09:46   #2
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Old September 02, 2019, 10:00   #3
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The rear takedown pin is an absolute bitch to get to move. I can't get it to move without using a punch.
Cool little stick! I built on a lot of Anderson lowers with no issues. Can you tell if the pin is binding in the lower, the upper or is it the pin itself? I probably have a spare pin I could mail ya if you need it.
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Old September 02, 2019, 10:05   #4
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Have a very similar project underway. A2 stock is the only difference. Can't make up my mind for the optic. Wanting to use a 1-9 scope. That dot looks interesting for close range work. Maybe swap back and forth.
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Old September 02, 2019, 10:10   #5
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This is why AR's are just fun! I built a mutt too many yrs ago to remember from used and some new parts on the cheap. best deal a close out 18" barrel from Saber Defense, LRB lower a good trigger,Timmney? and that will shoot sub moa if I do my part. Taken many varmints, deer and antelope. 9 pwr Luepold glass and have 800ish total. Had it out yesterday and ready for antelope hunt coming at end of month!
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Old September 02, 2019, 10:16   #6
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Cool little stick! I built on a lot of Anderson lowers with no issues. Can you tell if the pin is binding in the lower, the upper or is it the pin itself? I probably have a spare pin I could mail ya if you need it.
Pin runs smooth in the lower.

I'm certain the upper is about 0.001" out of spec on the tight side.
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Old September 02, 2019, 10:20   #7
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Pin runs smooth in the lower.

I'm certain the upper is about 0.001" out of spec on the tight side.
A bit of 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a #1 Phillips screwdriver stem will fix that lickety-split.
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Old September 02, 2019, 11:09   #8
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Should have mentioned: Brass was landing 1 o'clock - about 5 feet in front of the gun - prone firing position.
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Old September 02, 2019, 11:22   #9
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I had a selector like that once in a LPK that I got from somewhere. The detent cuts were a little off in the selector. While the selector worked just fine, my OCD forced me to replace it (and I threw it away, I think, although I might have saved it for post Armageddon times (like I'll live to then anyway, of course, but I'm sure that goes without saying) and like I don't have plenty of others anyway and like I won't be pissed if I use the shitty one again sometime in the future because I didn't mark it correctly or whatever).

I usually expect 16-20in ARs to eject to about 4-5 o'clock. Sometimes 10.5in pistols will go to 1...

What M193 and SS109 were you shooting, or were they reloads?

Forrest
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Old September 02, 2019, 11:55   #10
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Gary,
For what it’s worth, I think that handguard/upper may be Radical Firearms. I Remember that “R” sort of.
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Old September 02, 2019, 12:33   #11
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Both ball ammunition was Federal product in LC NATO-marked cases.

55 in black boxes marked “American Eagle”

I think the 62 came in a plastic bag in a generic brown box. Gun show purchase from 15 years ago.

I want to get it running ball ammunition first. Then will test some hand-loads.
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Old September 02, 2019, 15:58   #12
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Bitch slap that .001 into submission...

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Old September 02, 2019, 16:10   #13
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Bitch slap that .001 into submission...
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Old September 02, 2019, 16:45   #14
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My range kit has full set of buffer weights from standard carbine through H1, H2, H3... all the way to a Slash Heavy Buffer plus an MGI Rate Reduction Buffer. If don't have adjustable gas most builds start out the door with an H2 in it from the build but if doesn't have adjustable gas going to likely swap buffers a couple of times as shoot one in. An 18" rifle length and almost always have right buffer from start. But with shorter barrels and arbitrary port sizes drilled by maker having a buffer tuning kit saves guessing which weight it needs and possibly one or two more trips back to range getting it to act like a good poodle shooter.

Carried a 13.7" Noveske 6.8 build with pinned Flaming Pig for 16.1" and binary trigger last trip. Ran great with an H3 but swapped in the MGI Rate Reduction Buffer and it ran like butter in slow fire or full on binary mag dump. Amazing how knocking 100 to 150 rpm off the cyclic rate will make a little carbine purr. Wish I could afford one in every build but generally just in binary and occasionally will let someone with a legal full auto try the reduction buffer and often sell it to them on the spot since keep extra and most can't even find where to order them.

Have been buying the pins that are slightly over length which makes pushing them out easier as have something to push against even if use back of empty case. The pin hole alignment would drive me crazy. I keep at least three to four dozen lowers and uppers in stock and hand match my receivers for each build. When build nice rifles source my receivers from one of four companies that will hand match upper and lower before pin holes are drilled then chuck them together and line bore the pin holes through lower and upper in same operation so it's always a perfect match. While it makes me feel better most of the more accurate AR's have shot in my life had slop between upper and lower like holes were oversize or worn. All the accuracy is in the top end and bottom just holds fire control system in and keeps magazine in place. Reason I like a consistently fit upper and lower is know magazines will always present the same as there is no wobble between upper and lower.

I bet the heavier buffer will calm it down. Almost always have an H2 minimum weight up to Slash Heavy if rifle is really lively like some of the 22 Nosler builds have been doing on 4140 melonite barrels and using M855a1 projectiles loaded hot as can for that extra 200 yards of touch or extra level of armor to easily punch. A 22 Nosler with 14.7" barrel, flash can and binary trigger will have people run for the ditch at some ranges when it starts spitting four foot balls of fire late evening.
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Old September 02, 2019, 17:07   #15
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[*]The other issue is the weird selector. You can see in the pic below that the selector stops in the FIRE position at an angle a good bit off from vertical.
Some guys would pay for that hi-speed, lo-drag selector.
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Old September 02, 2019, 17:10   #16
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Some guys would pay for that hi-speed, lo-drag selector.
First $500 gets mine...

Forrest
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Old September 02, 2019, 18:19   #17
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My range kit has full set of buffer weights from standard carbine through H1, H2, H3... all the way to a Slash Heavy Buffer plus an MGI Rate Reduction Buffer. If don't have adjustable gas most builds start out the door with an H2 in it from the build but if doesn't have adjustable gas going to likely swap buffers a couple of times as shoot one in. An 18" rifle length and almost always have right buffer from start. But with shorter barrels and arbitrary port sizes drilled by maker having a buffer tuning kit saves guessing which weight it needs and possibly one or two more trips back to range getting it to act like a good poodle shooter.

Carried a 13.7" Noveske 6.8 build with pinned Flaming Pig for 16.1" and binary trigger last trip. Ran great with an H3 but swapped in the MGI Rate Reduction Buffer and it ran like butter in slow fire or full on binary mag dump. Amazing how knocking 100 to 150 rpm off the cyclic rate will make a little carbine purr. Wish I could afford one in every build but generally just in binary and occasionally will let someone with a legal full auto try the reduction buffer and often sell it to them on the spot since keep extra and most can't even find where to order them.

Have been buying the pins that are slightly over length which makes pushing them out easier as have something to push against even if use back of empty case. The pin hole alignment would drive me crazy. I keep at least three to four dozen lowers and uppers in stock and hand match my receivers for each build. When build nice rifles source my receivers from one of four companies that will hand match upper and lower before pin holes are drilled then chuck them together and line bore the pin holes through lower and upper in same operation so it's always a perfect match. While it makes me feel better most of the more accurate AR's have shot in my life had slop between upper and lower like holes were oversize or worn. All the accuracy is in the top end and bottom just holds fire control system in and keeps magazine in place. Reason I like a consistently fit upper and lower is know magazines will always present the same as there is no wobble between upper and lower.

I bet the heavier buffer will calm it down. Almost always have an H2 minimum weight up to Slash Heavy if rifle is really lively like some of the 22 Nosler builds have been doing on 4140 melonite barrels and using M855a1 projectiles loaded hot as can for that extra 200 yards of touch or extra level of armor to easily punch. A 22 Nosler with 14.7" barrel, flash can and binary trigger will have people run for the ditch at some ranges when it starts spitting four foot balls of fire late evening.

More psycho babel wall of text......geezus
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Old September 02, 2019, 20:18   #18
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I was unaware of extra-long takedown pins being available. That would be an asset on this gun.

I see now it is a thing.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ar15...hrome&ie=UTF-8

I especially like these. They even come pre-divoted.
Its obvious that the head-side of the pin sticks out. I wonder if the divot-side also sticks out?
https://www.ar15part.com/AR15-Extend...ar15extdps.htm

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Old September 02, 2019, 20:27   #19
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I usually just try to get my thumb in a good place on the pin,, tense up real good, then smash my knuckle into the bench or floor. I call it the push pin pogo.
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Old September 02, 2019, 20:36   #20
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Is the pin tight in the upper without the lower, or are the upper and lower misaligned slightly, Gary?

Either problem can be fixed easily...

Forrest
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Old September 02, 2019, 20:41   #21
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Is the pin tight in the upper without the lower, or are the upper and lower misaligned slightly, Gary?

Either problem can be fixed easily...

Forrest

Interesting question.

I'm not entirely sure whether the pin would be tight in the UPPER if I just had the pin in my hand, and tried shoving the pin by-itself through the assembly-hole in the upper. I haven't removed the pin to check. Seems like its a misalignment. The front pin inserts smoothly. Its always the rear pin that's a royal bitch when I try to push it out. Its really not too hard to push it in.

I just-now ordered the extended pins with pre-divoted end. I'll check the existing pin to see if its just too fat for the upper when I have the gun apart to install the new pin.
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Old September 02, 2019, 20:42   #22
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I usually just try to get my thumb in a good place on the pin,, tense up real good, then smash my knuckle into the bench or floor. I call it the push pin pogo.
That does sound sporty!
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Old September 02, 2019, 20:54   #23
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The tight rear pin is a feature. Your gun won't fly open during a tactical operations.
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Old September 02, 2019, 21:12   #24
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That does sound sporty!
No half stepping when you've taken inspiration from the master




Extra deep detent hole in the selector? Extra coil or two on the spring? Spring made out of jesushchristium instead of the usual steel?
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Old September 02, 2019, 21:26   #25
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I showed a guy how to do the pogo to clear a Mini-14 with a siezed Wolf steel case in the chamber at the range last weekend.

Then the sumbitch set up right next to me and blasted me in the head with supersonic brass flung from that thing while I was trying to shoot offhand.

I made up some new words for that one.
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Old September 02, 2019, 21:43   #26
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I showed a guy how to do the pogo
Ask anyone who watched me shoot the GA FAL match this year.

I KNOW how to do the pogo, even inside a helicopter
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Old September 02, 2019, 21:47   #27
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I'll second the Radical Firearms.
https://www.radicalfirearms.com/
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Old September 02, 2019, 21:50   #28
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I showed a guy how to do the pogo to clear a Mini-14 with a siezed Wolf steel case in the chamber at the range last weekend.

Then the sumbitch set up right next to me and blasted me in the head with supersonic brass flung from that thing while I was trying to shoot offhand.

I made up some new words for that one.
Bet he was just brass kissing you to show his thanks rather than making it weird.
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Old September 03, 2019, 06:20   #29
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[*]The rear takedown pin is an absolute bitch to get to move. I can't get it to move without using a punch.
Take off the buffer tube and see if the rear takedown pin detent is binding against the takedown pin.
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Old September 03, 2019, 07:04   #30
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I'm shocked none of you fellers poo pooed on her tramp stamp.

Personally, I wouldn't be bothered by it, in her case, butcept I'm married.

I searched for *blasty little carbine* and this is hit number 1 and it's a 45.

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Old September 03, 2019, 07:15   #31
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After firing some LEO M10's at age 16 needed up purchasing a pair of semis in 9mm and pair of select fire M11s in 380 with the old Sionics suppressors
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Old September 03, 2019, 07:20   #32
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More psycho babel wall of text......geezus
But he did order a set of extended pins as mentioned in my post. Giving thorough commentary with more than one way to skin a proverbial cat is intended as wide array of advice to fix problems encountered. You don't have to read my posts if do not pertain to you or even if they do.
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Old September 03, 2019, 07:24   #33
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Some folks just don’t get the tao of Huey.
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Old September 03, 2019, 07:33   #34
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Take off the buffer tube and see if the rear takedown pin detent is binding against the takedown pin.
Rear takedown pin moves freely when not engaged with upper receiver.
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Old September 03, 2019, 09:47   #35
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As I was cleaning-up this morning from the weekend shoot, I noticed two things:

1. The 30-round magazine I used was actually a SANCHEZ mag (or at least it has a SANCHEZ floorplate). I had asssumed it was a TAPCO mag because all my TAPCO mags have that same green follower. I'm not sure if the follower in the SANCHEZ is original or a replacement. I might hold the SANCHEZ magazine suspect if the same sort of stovepipe malfunction had not also occurred with a COLT 20-round factory mag.

2. Check out the dings on the brass. Seems like most of my brass has that unique ding right above the extractor cutout.

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Old September 03, 2019, 10:27   #36
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^^^ Keep the Sanchez clean and it'll all work out.
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Old September 03, 2019, 14:14   #37
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As find on sale buy half dozen to dozen LMT "lobster tail" dual extractor spring bolts. Running them in 5.56 heavy use rifles, 6.8 spc II, 22 Nosler and other hot cartridges or any binary fire control system build. Put OEM bolt in pistol grip as a spare in case of bolt breaking in field. These bolts are super tough and clear brass from ejection port like installed a turbo charger.

Except for White Oak Armament, Noveske, Compass Lake Engineering and other match barrels where go the extra mile to order a factory hand matched bolt so someone like John and staff at WOA ensure headspace and bolt all are perfectly in jive for ultimate accuracy can almost bet will see LMT's or occasional ARP Superbolt in my poodle shooters. Use minimum of Carpenter 158 HPT/MPI bolts with Colt extractor springs and rubber grommet in my give away rifles.



Edit:
Quote:
If our standard bolt is the infantryman of the gun industry, then our enhanced bolt is the delta operator.* This bolt was designed to function effectively in full-auto, suppressed, and short barrel weapon systems, and it is made of materials far more durable than your standard fare.**Quite simply, it’s the best possible upgrade for your rifle to increase reliability and functionality.

The LMT® Enhanced Bolt provides the following:

Built from a proprietary material that is not only stronger than the standard bolt but easier to clean as wellModified locking lugs provide flexibility and durability in dealing with high-pressure, overgassed loads“Lobster tail” extractor utilizes two springs to allow stronger and more consistent extraction with drastically improved spring life.


Have to be patient but if wait have caught the LMT Enhanced Bolts on sale from $59 to $79 each. Brownells seems to run the $59.99 mega sales more often than anyone. More than once have ordered everyone left if not Johnny on the Spot and the sale was posted over at 68forums or Barf.com before I noticed it posted. Why try to hit the main sites either early in the morning or late evening as many days as possible so able to get limited supply sale items.

Midway has put the Luminox Colormark Blackout Navy SEAL carbon & plastic (won't set off metal detectors) with tritium markers on sale twice for $183 and the steel case version for $239 once that I was able to buy another and they always limit sale to one per customer. First time ran the carbon and plastic bought one on my account and before could pay then log into wife's account they had sold out. Suggest if chase sales that have limits try and have account in your name, wife's and business. Have to be slick and link a different card to each as well as shipping address. But when see the limited purchased $13.99 bricks of rim fire or only one per customer Mk4 Leupold scope being able to tap it three times is great. If had kids and grand kids would wear them out.

Last time Brownells had LMT bolts for $59.99 put several dozen of mixed 6.8 and 5.56 then had to keep lowering my number ordered till stopped saying out of stock and let me have number their system showed. Have done that more than once to get a notice that due to others buying at same time did not have enough to fill my complete order and if wanted refund or wait till got more shipped. Of course when have dozens of each already wait and then sometimes that notice my backorder was ready to ship alerted me another sale was on the site. I often buy mega numbers of sale items after looking them up at PSA and other distributors wholesale price using LGS login credintials then sell enough to shop owner he can keep in stock at less than wholesale. Have put my extras on the shelf if get too many and we split the profits when sell and he doesn't have to invest his cash into inventory and I make back enough money to subsidize what I bought.

When buying the Mag Tactical billett magnesium lowers for $19 was selling to him for $60 as wholesale was $119 or $139 unsure which. Bought enough one buy for them to be his main draw Black Friday item. Purchased 120 lowers on my account which money went to owners and not company's account as they got closer to bankruptcy. Sold 60 to shop and then before 11:00 am they called and asked if would bring more and since had plenty and making $40 each took them another 30. Amazing when able to buy cheaper off web or direct from owner of a smaller company than wholesale by leaps and bounds. It's how I finance my building addiction. Like a Crack addict cutting half his eight ball then stomping on 8t and reselling to finance his dope habit only legal as the lowers shipped to LGS and we're logged directly into their book as their lowers because setup account as a dual account where my corporation and theirs shared the same account number but we paid separately. Have that with at least six vendors but Mag Tactical was only one that sold to me personally at 1/3 of what they charged the LGS.
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Old September 03, 2019, 14:41   #38
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What is the backstory on the rifle- why the mystery of it's source?

If it is Radical Arms I'd check the staking on the bolt carrier - my Radical Arms AR Pistol bolt carrier was poorly staked - worked loose withing a couple hundred rounds. The replacement carrier they sent me didn't look any better so I sold it.
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Old September 03, 2019, 15:21   #39
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Because its second-hand... or third-hand

And I didn't bother to ask the seller where he got it.

Staking looks adequate - although I've seen heavier staking.

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Old September 03, 2019, 16:19   #40
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2. Check out the dings on the brass. Seems like most of my brass has that unique ding right above the extractor cutout.

I had that ding on one of mine, except higher up on the case. It was from hitting the sharp edge of deflector close to the ejection port. In my case it did not cause stovepipes. Later, I rebuilt that particular rifel into something else and used a different bcg, and that stopped. I wasn't trying to make it stop, it just did.
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Old September 03, 2019, 16:42   #41
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On further inspection today.

Interesting how bent the firing pin retaining-pin is after only firing about 50 rounds.

Extractor spring is a 4-coil, with blue insert, and no O-ring.



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Old September 03, 2019, 16:57   #42
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Your trigger seems to indicate that it is GAy.
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Old September 03, 2019, 17:12   #43
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On further inspection today.

Interesting how bent the firing pin retaining-pin is after only firing about 50 rounds.

Extractor spring is a 4-coil, with blue insert, and no O-ring.



[/IMG]
Did it look that way before you started or all yours?

It's more than I would expect, even after many rounds. Kind of suggests violent cycling...

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Old September 03, 2019, 17:18   #44
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If I had all the problems with ARs that you seem to have, I think I'd give up on 'em. Don't think I've ever seen any one person have so many odd-ball problems with their rifles. Who'd you piss off, anyway?

I've shot the daylights out of more than 50 ARs and never seen a firing pin retaining pin bent like that. And, the extractor spring should have a black insert.

^ what Forrest said
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Old September 03, 2019, 18:15   #45
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My guess is its way overgassed which the heavier buffer should help as it seems to be beating itself to pieces. I was dissapointed in Daniel Defense when they opened up the gas ports on all barrels due to returns from people shooting cheap underpowered Chinese ammo. Buy a $1,200 to $2,200 semi-custom AR and shoot steel case ammo loaded with leftover cannister powder from WWII ????

I would have printed "Do not use cheap Chinese crap ammo in your finely made American rifle" in bold print on outside of box and list it as voiding warranty in instruction manual rather than overgas all future rifles to avoid returns that were not functioning with crappy ammo.

Daniel Defense is biggest seller at LGS and for long time had little to no issues with returns. Soon after Sandy Hook when could buy USGI milsurp for cheap suddenly had a surge in returns of which most owners said were using Wolf steel case from Walmart and when we would test rifle with 55 grain M193 all would run fine but owners insist they run cheap sTeel case.

Apparently this became so common they just began opening up ports on not only the returns but new rifles as well. I can tell the difference between a properly gassed DD versus a late model overgassed quickly on the range. Imagine it will take 30% of rifles lifespan away as well as increase number of broken bolts, carriers etc.

As a manufacturer wanting to run in the black I see the reasoning. Make sure rifle runs with any ammo and if beats itself to pieces using good full power ammo then sell more rifles own the road. It's the corporate way. I believe every AR that retails over $1,200 should have adjustable gas block and clear instructions how to tune your rifle for ammo used.

A three to five easily adjustable gas block should be on all non "budget" AR's. Instruct operators to reduce gas till have a failure to feed, fire or extract then add one more click of gas and leave alone till change ammo. A three position lever like the Noveske Switchblock with low, medium and third position being full gas mode instead of gas off would work great. Am really lamenting the loss of the MicroMOA Govenah three position gas block. It was pure simplicity with three positions adjusted by sliding it with a bullet tip or anything pointy. Sold them predrilled in normal, suppressed and "extreme" mode which gave rifle full gas if got batch of low power ammo or got super dirty in the field and had to keep shooting. Also could buy two holes dried and third used for gas off or custom size gas port and totally blank units where builder could select all three port sizes wanted.

While I know a heavier buffer will calm down an over gassed rifle I have one concern. What is happening to the bolt and carrier when hit by that initial over gassed blast from gas tube? Know it slows the entire carrier group down going both directions but between that big blast of gas and heavy buffer how much extra stress is exerted on the bolt carrier group? I have no way of scientifically testing this but what little physics I know and understanding of inertia seems like the cam pin especially is going to take more force than a properly gassed rifle.

So many people build now and manufacturers want builds and upgrades to work I feel the entire poodle shooter industry is moving from engineered gas systems to feed them all we can so rifle goes bang every time and let the end users just swap more parts as they break. Before the build craze became common about the only broken bolts and cam pins I saw were in full auto rifles. I do not use adjustable gas ports on all rifles but some of the Noveske, WOA and other barrels I buy come with gas block and gas tube already installed and trust those companies to send me a properly set up gas system on a $400 barrel but they are never going to see steel case Walmart ammo in my lifetime either.
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Old September 03, 2019, 18:41   #46
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easily adjustable gas block should be on all non "budget" AR's. Instruct operators to reduce gas till have a failure to feed, fire or extract then add one more click of gas and leave alone till change ammo.
It seems to me like I had an old Cold War battle rifle that had that option.

For the life of me however, I can't remember what is was though
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Old September 03, 2019, 18:44   #47
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It seems to me like I had an old Cold War battle rifle that had that option.

For the life of me however, I can't remember what is was though
Mattel put that on all of their ARs...

OK, so I'm going to hell for that one...

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Old September 03, 2019, 18:49   #48
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Oh, you said Battle Rifle...

My bad...

Can I guess...?

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Old September 03, 2019, 19:01   #49
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^^^ Keep the Sanchez clean and it'll all work out.
No one wants a Dirty Sanchez!
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Old September 03, 2019, 20:23   #50
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No one wants a Dirty Sanchez!
When the lips of your Sanchez are dirty, there's only one thing to do....
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