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Old February 13, 2020, 23:09   #1
hkshooter
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Vortex Viper PST Gen II #3151

Instructions say to turn the elevation knob all the way down before beginning to zero the scope and set up the zero stops. However, this flies in the face of everything I've ever known before, always thinking the reticle should be mechanically centered when beginning to zero a scope.
I can certainly do what the instructions say but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Thoughts?

Thanks
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Old February 14, 2020, 11:21   #2
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quote;
"I can certainly do what the instructions say but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Thoughts?"

Yeah, I see what you mean. Have heard of running the windage and elevation from stop to stop a couple times, counting the clicks to obtain center. Also to break in the adjustment ass'y on a new scope.

Depending on your mounts, some with a 20 MOA rise, and the scopes mechanical zero, don't see how you can put a bullet on the sight-in target with the Elev. adj. bottomed out.

My Vortex instructions "Roughly center the reticle by adj. both windage and elevation turrets to the mid point of their travel ranges."
This is followed by Boresighting, either mechanically or use of a tool.

You must have got a fancier model Vortex than mine.
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Old February 14, 2020, 12:24   #3
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Seen this instruction when the scope is going to be used for long distances (1000+ yards). It makes sense to do that to compensate for the large amount of adjustment needed to allow you to center on the target. Running out of adjustment isn't a good thing at those distances. A base or mounts with 20 MOA or more built in is the current answer to this issue and allows you to run the reticle down below the mechanical zero point. Shooting 1000 yds has around a 30 MOA drop for most cartridges and requires a 60 MOA correction dial-in. This is usually way beyond the max adjustment for most scopes.

Of course this is just an assumption on my part for your particular scope.
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Old February 14, 2020, 13:05   #4
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I think I've figured it out. One turns the elevation down until it stops. Then remove the turret, loosen the screws that hold the stop ring. Bore sight and zeros the scope. Once zeroed, tighten the stop screws and reinstall the turret with the line aligned with zero.
The way I understand it now is this leaves the turret zeroed while the rest of the mechanism can be moved to set reticle zero. Once the turret is reinstalled it will now let the user return to zero after many adjustments while shooting distance or compensating wind.
Now my only question is what if one needs to shoot lower than the stop will allow?
Maybe all will be clear once I get it to the range.
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Old February 14, 2020, 18:13   #5
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I like to use a mirror to center the reticle. Read up on it here:
https://rifleopticsworld.com/optically-center-scope/
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Old February 15, 2020, 06:52   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkshooter View Post
I think I've figured it out. One turns the elevation down until it stops. Then remove the turret, loosen the screws that hold the stop ring. Bore sight and zeros the scope. Once zeroed, tighten the stop screws and reinstall the turret with the line aligned with zero.
The way I understand it now is this leaves the turret zeroed while the rest of the mechanism can be moved to set reticle zero. Once the turret is reinstalled it will now let the user return to zero after many adjustments while shooting distance or compensating wind.
Now my only question is what if one needs to shoot lower than the stop will allow?
Maybe all will be clear once I get it to the range.
If you want to dial lower you are out of luck. Options are holdovers on the scope or set the stop on a lower number and remember that true zero is set at zero.
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Old February 15, 2020, 09:30   #7
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Originally Posted by paulo View Post
If you want to dial lower you are out of luck. Options are holdovers on the scope or set the stop on a lower number and remember that true zero is set at zero.
Yeah, after some more thought I guess if I zero at 100 there will be no place left to go but up. If I'm thinking of it right I have over 1300 inches (potentially) of adjustment to cover 230 inches of drop at 1000 yds.

Scope 75 MOA
Rail 20 MOA
Reticle 36 MOA
____________

131 MOA=1310 inches@1000 yds.

Of course I'll likely never be able to utilize any of that, most likely doing all my shooting under 400. But if I can hit a groundhog at 400 I should be able to easily hit zombies at 800 with little more effort than a Kentucky windage elevation adjustment. I need to find some serious distance to practice on.
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Old February 15, 2020, 09:44   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkshooter View Post
Instructions say........


Pshawww! Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion.

Ignore them and go forward young man. That's what I do
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Old February 15, 2020, 13:10   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulo View Post
If you want to dial lower you are out of luck. Options are holdovers on the scope or set the stop on a lower number and remember that true zero is set at zero.
Ballistically, almost all centerfire long distance cartridges are the same until you go beyond 250-300 yards. For example, my .308 bolt gun zeroed for 100 yards has 1-2 MOA drop at 200 yards, and 4 MOA drop at 250. So, you should be able to shoot at and hit a target with no adjustment needed. It may not be a precision shot, but will score in the "put him down" ring.

And by shooting the closer ranges after zeroing, you can add the shot CM placement/point of aim to your range card - 100 yds CM (center mass), 200 yds High CM, 250 yds neck, and 300 yds nose.
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Old February 15, 2020, 13:19   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tac-40 View Post
Ballistically, almost all centerfire long distance cartridges are the same until you go beyond 250
^^^^THIS^^^^

I sight in almost everything, regardless of irons or optics, at 1.5" to 2" high at 100 yards.

For almost any center fire rifle cartridge, from me out to 250ish is +/- 3" or less in elevation.

Plenty close enough for the girls I go with (and the distances/targets I usually shoot at).

YMMV.
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