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Old February 12, 2020, 09:30   #11
01BIRDDOG
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FALaholic #: 54639
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southwest Virginia---Abingdon, Virginia
Posts: 2,411
Quote:
Originally Posted by hueyville View Post
I have at least three dozen rifles with AAC 51T ratchet mount suppressor adapters. Never had an issue till one day had finished a new build tested and tuned it without a suppressor mounted then did a rough adjustment based on experience to mount an AAC 762SDN can on the AR pistol (10.5" Noveske Afghan barrel and Superlative Arms piston drive) which was running fine till poof, bottle rocket, landed about ten to fifteen feet in front of me. Examined it by eye, flashlight and bores cope unable to find any damage.

Made a gas adjustment, reinstalled the suppressor and noticed about six to eight rounds later it was three clicks from being fully tightened. It was loosening as shot the pistol. Worried something was wrong with the can tried another AAC 762SDN and pair of AAC 762SDN-6s everyone would begin to loosen after five to ten rounds. Grabbed two rifles and double mag dumped fifty total rounds through each suppressor and all performed perfectly and none slipped even a notch. Realized I had gotten the adapter from a friend at LGS who had sold it after having a lot of issues with his AAC 762SDN on a couple of his rifles. Even had to send suppressor in for a latch replacement.

Pulled the used suppressor adapter off the 10.5" Noveske, replaced with new one and perfection with all four suppressors. I own two SDNS and two SDN-6s to keep more rifles ready with cans and do less swaps. When I remove one I depress latch and hold it till suppressor comes off. Can depress, make a few turns then release and will come the rest of the way off but can feel the latch grinding on the teeth. When put suppressor on if want too can just spin in on till its tight and go. Soon as I feel latch engage first tooth depress the release and tighten the suppressor till its secure and release then give it a final twist which sometimes will jump one more tooth.

One day guy who I purchased his used adapter from happened to have his rifle and can at LGS. Asked him to demonstrate removal and installation. He pressed latch and losses ed a few turns then let go soon as it would spin without holding. Putting can back on he just spun can till snug without touching latch. I had the latch purchased used from him and new one. Showed him with a micrometer how much wear was on adapter he sold me. He said it came off of one of two problem rifles that even after having new latch installed his cans would launch after a couple or so magazine loads. Showed him how I held latch removing, installing and with four cans used on dozens of rifles never had an issue till used his second hand suppressor adapter.

Asked him how often he swapped his can which he said with only one all the time and the two rifles he quit using it with were the ones he initially used most often with no issues. Suggested idea his constant changing and letting the latch go clickity, clickity, click over every tooth spinning it on had to be causing wear on adapter and latch which eventually lead to loose latch on worn adapter slowly unscrewing itself till launch. He had sold me both the adapters he decided to quit using thinking it was a rifle issue. I had never mounted the second and showed him it had same wear as the one I had a launch.

He knew well how many cans I had as most had come out of his counter. Showed him how I swapped them with virtually no clickity click by holding latch till suppressor was snug and until it was off. He tried it next time shooting and said it made his thumb hurt to hold latch till suppressor was fully tight then make sure to see if able to get one click tighter and holding latch entire removal process and after a while along with loading magazines it made his thumb hurt. I show up with enough magazines loaded to do my days shooting usually. I only shoot my suppressors at range to verify still properly sighted and maybe play with them enough to get too warm to touch and sit aside. Not going to grab an oven mitt and try to swap hot suppressor to next rifle so always look cool at the line shooting a suppressed rifle.

He was decent and refunded me what I paid for the adapters without me even asking. I handed them to him and he pitched them in the trash. I later pulled them out but have marked as worn and may see if AAC will warranty them, maybe not but didn't see sense in trashing them as may be fine on a smaller bore, lighter recoiling rifle. Bottom line is make sure suppressor is on correctly and if quick change its now a habit for me to check every few magazines and see if it has jumped a notch which am not noticing on my cans or adapters and have yet to need a latch replacement which for a few guys around the LGS have had latches replaced one or more times. All spin them on and when get it back spinning onto worn adapter so next launch happens sooner than first when adapters were new.

I have seen cans come in cross threaded with an end strike because owner didn't realize he had not properly aligned muzzle and threads on can, not thought much why can seemed so much harder to install this time then after three shots realize bullets are spraying because they are hitting end of can on exit. 1/3 of my suppressors are tack welded to bring a 8.5" to 12.5" barrel to 16" from bolt face to end of pinned suppressor as can buy a $349 to $399 suppressor or build a Form I can and save a $200 SBR stamp plus cost of engraving and that lower being an SBR forever.



I have some early AAC M-4 1000 and M-4 2000 suppressors that had the 18 tooth mount. They will back off about a tooth no matter what and AAC wont replace the springs in the Suppressor so i am tempted to come up with some way of locking this in the given tooth to prevent backing off. Never had a problem on the 52 tooth. Guess i could permanently attach on something
like a Mk.18 build but it's there for good then.
Any thoughts ?
Thanks.
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