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Old December 19, 2000, 01:39   #1
Augdog
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Full description of Norrel's Moly Coat

If you want a tough finish, this is the one. I have tried several, and the only others close is GP's Metacol and Black T. I bead blast all the parts, then blue them with Brownells Oxpho-blue, this turn the metal matte black with a tough cold blue finish. I then finish with the Norrell's Moly. With a little practice you can do a entire FAL from start to finish in 4 hours.

MOLY RESIN Ô
Professional Firearm Finishes
Exclusive Product of John Norrell Arms, Inc./Norrell Manufacturing
2608 Grist Mill Rd.
Little Rock, AR 72227
Fax 501-225-7864 / E-Mail > SMG1022@AOL.COM


Revised Copy 9/00
Moly ResinÔ is a product trademark of John Norrell Arms, Inc. d/b/a Norrell
Manufacturing. These finishes are specifically formulated from a phenolic
resin base and molybdenum disulfide (a superior lubricant) with an exclusive
blend of additives only available through Norrell Manufacturing. Our
additives create a phenolic coating that is the hardest, most durable, and
the most chemical/heat resistant thermally cured finish available on the
market today. Our special low temperature sensitive catalyst will cause the
Resin to harden and bond to the surface to form a barrier to acids, oils,
paint removers, powder solvents, bore cleaners and other strong industrial
solvents. The low curing temperature prevents possible heat damage to parts
during the curing process. We selected our phenolic base stock from hundreds
offered by Dow Corning and 3M. The combination of the most suitable base
stock, our additives, and molybdenum creates a truly unique coating that
represents state-of-the-art technology. No other thermally cured firearm
finish available on the market today has the same characteristics and
properties that Moly ResinÔ offers the professional gunsmith or home
hobbyist. Moly ResinÔ is a coating developed for ordnance usage on
equipment and weapons, providing excellent corrosion protection, abrasion
resistance and lubricity to meet automatic weapon dry firing requirements
after 60 days seawater immersion. Available ready to apply. No thinning or
dilution is needed.

Moly ResinÔ will adhere to all of the following: aluminum, carbon steel,
stainless steel, sandblasted and glass beaded metal, cast iron and aluminum,
copper, silver solder, blued or parkerized finish, anodized, nickel and
chrome plate, and many plastics, etc. Note: nickel and chrome plated
surfaces should be sand blasted to allow the best adhesion of the Resin.
For all metals, best overall results are achieved on freshly sandblasted
surfaces. Moly ResinÔ is available in the following standard colors but
they may be mixed together to create an additional variety of shades.

Colors Currently Available:
GRAYISH-BLACK - Dark gray-black flat coloration that duplicates the
appearance of the original Colt AR-15/M-16 finish. This is the same
product that is purchased from us by the U.S. Military to refinish Colt
M-16's. May be mixed with our Green Leaf Drab to obtain a
slight greenish parkerized appearance to match some older military
parkerizing.
FLAT BLACK - Black in coloration with a non-reflective dull matte appearance.
Slightly darker shade compared to the above Grayish-Black Moly ResinÔ.
Norrell Manufacturing supplies this Mil-Spec finish to the sub-contractors
that manufacture USSOCOM (U.S. Special Operations Command) products for
H&K and the U.S. Military such as the sound suppressor for the H&K Mark 23
SOCOM .45 Cal. pistol used by the Navy Seals and Special Forces.
SEMI-GLOSS BLACK - Black in coloration with a slight gloss that will
duplicate the original H&K (Heckler & Koch) type finish. Good match to
H&K, UZI, and other similar semi-gloss black gun coatings.
FLAT GRAY - Matches the U.S. Military gray parkerizing. May be mixed with
our Green Leaf Drab to obtain a greenish parkerized appearance
or our blacks for a darker gray shade. May be lightened by the addition of
Off-White Moly.
GREEN LEAF DRAB - Olive (flat) drab green (ammo can) appearance. May be
darkened or lightened by the addition of black or off white Moly Resin.
BROWN BARK DRAB - Medium flat brown appearance. May be darkened or lightened
by the addition of black or off white Moly Resin.
TAN SAND DRAB - Medium flat tan appearance. May be darkened or lightened by
the addition of black, tan, or off white Moly Resin.
OFF WHITE DRAB - Flat off white cream appearance. May be mixed with all Moly
Resins to lightened their shade.
STAINLESS STEEL - Stainless steel powdered metal mixed with clear phenolic
Resin gives the appearance of brushed stainless steel when applied over
any type of metal.
CLEAR Hard Coat Sealer - Clear thermally cured phenolic Resin without color
pigment added.

Characteristics and Benefits:
Easy to Apply
Dissipates Heat
Self Lubricating
Four colors available
No Dilution Required
Use Home Oven to Cure
Low Temperature Curing
Non-Reflective Appearance
Rust and Corrosion Preventative
Resists Temperatures 800 f+ and -125 f.
Thin Flexible film allows reassembly of parts
Can be applied to all metals and most plastics.
Currently used by U.S. Government Contractors.
Meets Mil-Specs for 60-day seawater immersion.
All metals and plastics will match in color when coated.
Can be applied over original existing finish or sandblasted surfaces.
Currently used by numerous firearm manufacturers, gun shops and individuals.
Meets Mil-Specs for accelerated salt spray tests equivalent to 30 years
marine environment.
Meets Mil-Specs for immersion in acids, powder solvents, paint removers,
bore cleaners, etc.

Moly ResinÔ was specifically designed for firearm owners. In the past, a
similar finish was obtainable only by vatting or plating your firearm. Now,
finally a product that can easily be applied in your shop or at home. Simply
degrease, pre-heat part(s), spray with Moly ResinÔ , and cure in your oven
for one hour. Moly ResinÔ can also be applied over existing finishes such
as bluing, parkerizing, anodizing, plating, etc. or on a sandblasted
surface. The coating adheres to all metals and most plastics.
Specifications:
Appearance:
The bonded coating will appear uniform in color, smooth and free from cracks,
runs, sags, scratches, pin holes, blisters, bubbles, and foreign matter.

Thickness:
The optimal thickness of the coating will be between .0003" and .0009" unless
a thicker coating is desired. The thin coating characteristics of less than
one thousands of an inch allows easy re-assembly of precision fitted parts.

Lubricity:
Moly ResinÔ contains molybdenum disulfide, which provides excellent
anti-friction characteristics. Wear life is comparable to blued, parkerized
and other common firearm finishes. Moly ResinÔ is a phenolic Resin that
when thermally cured, produces the most durable thermally cured painted
surface of any products on the market. Wear life when tested on Tabor
Abrasurf with #CS10 wheel installed @ 500 grams weight minimum 235 RPM's.

Thermal Stability:
The cured coating will withstand exposure at 500 f for 1000 hours minimum and
1000 hour minimum soak at -125 f. Minimum initial oxidation temperature is
880 f. Thermal breakaway is 1000 f minimum.

Fluid Resistance:
Moly ResinÔ will meet 24 hour emersion requirements in the following fluids:
aviation gasoline, hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, lubricating oils, paint
removers, trichlorethylene, nitric, sulphuric and hydrochloric acids,
hydrogen peroxide, gun powder solvents, strong bases such as ammonium and
sodium hydroxide, and numerous other strong chemicals.

Corrosion Resistance:
Moly ResinÔ , when applied to bare sandblasted cold rolled steel will pass
the test procedures for salt water spray at 1000 hours, salt water immersion
at a minimum of 1000 hours, accelerated salt spray test equivalent to 30
years marine atmosphere exposure, and 60 days sea water immersion.


Pretreatment: All Metals
The surface of the parts to be coated should be clean and free of any oils,
solvents, etc. Best cleaning methods appear to be soap and water; however, a
chemical cleaning with MEK, acetone, etc. is also acceptable. The dullest
finish for each color is achieved by sand abrasive blasting the parts with a
fine sand before coating. Glass beads may also be utilized for aluminum but
are generally not abrasive enough for best adhesion of the Moly when used on
steel and harder metals. Best overall finish is achieved by sandblasting
with 60 to 90 grit size. This will give the best coat bonding and adhesion,
as well as, uniform texture. Sandblasting removes minor scratches and metal
surface imperfections. Chrome or nickel-plated parts should always be
sandblasted for best adhesion. After sandblasting, rinse parts off with
soap and water to remove sand dust and oil from the air compressor.
Application Procedures: All Metals
After sand blasting and cleaning, the part(s) should be preheated in an oven
long enough to get the parts to a temperature of about 100 f. Shake the
bottle very well to remove all residue from the bottom of the bottle. Remove
parts from the oven and lightly spray Moly ResinÔ on the part(s) through an
airbrush. Apply the coating from numerous angles and directions. Several
light fog passes are more preferable than attempting to coat the part in one
heavy coat. When warm parts are sprayed the liquid solvent will immediately
be evaporated upon contact resulting in a very consistent finish. If parts
cool down during spraying, you may return the partially sprayed part(s) to
the oven for preheating back to 100 f. For a more dull or flat appearance,
the parts may be pre-heat up to 300 f, however, this is not advisable with
the semi-gloss black product unless a flat appearance is desired. The best
semi-gloss appearance is achieved by pre-heating no warmer than 100f. Please
note that the temperature catalyst in the Moly Resin line of products is set
to start the curing process at a temperature that is not harmful to aluminum,
steel, other metals and many plastics. Springs are not annealed (softened)
at temperatures of 300 f or less.
Curing Procedures: All Metals
After part(s) are coated with Moly ResinÔ they should be cured in the oven
at 300 f. for one hour. If you prefer, the temperature may be reduced to
250 f. and cured for 1 ½ to 2 hours instead of one hour at 300 f. The 300 f.
curing temperature does produce the hardest coating. Heating metal firearm
parts to 250 f. or 300 f. will not harm them.
Pretreatment, Application and Curing of Plastics.
A variety of plastic parts are currently being used on firearms. Some for
merely cosmetics reasons and others for weight reduction, toughness, or
simply ease of manufacturing. Although these plastic parts do not rust, they
may become discolored or scratched. In addition, they may not match the
other parts of the firearm exactly in color. For example, the Colt
M-16/AR-15 stocks are fiberglass with a black coating. If you scratch
through the black coating the light colored fiberglass will show. If you
want a perfect match of color between metal parts and plastic parts, Moly
ResinÔ has been formulated to adhere and cure on most plastics. Plastics
that are unsuitable are clearly those that will melt, soften, or otherwise be
damaged due to the curing temperatures needed to harden the Moly Resin. In
order to avoid possible damage to plastic parts such as stocks, forearms,
barrel shrouds, etc., we recommend that you do the following: 1.) Reduce the
curing temperature to 200 f. and cure for two hours, and 2.) Remove all metal
parts from the plastic before preheating and curing. If your oven
thermometer is not accurate you may accidentally heat the plastic to a
temperature which will deform or melt so BE CAREFUL.
Refinishing Tips:
Heat: Preheating your part(s) before spraying will eliminate the possibility
of runs. If you do have runs or "wet spots" instead of a dry smooth
appearance when spraying, you are either spraying too close to your part(s),
your part has cooled down, or you are spraying too much Moly ResinÔ on the
part(s). It should be noted that Moly ResinÔ can be sprayed on parts at room
temperature (no preheating) and then cured at 300f. If you do not preheat,
you may find that you get what are called "fish eyes" in the paint industry.
Fish eyes are very small spots that do not allow the spray to cover the metal
and are usually caused by oils, silicones, or other impurities on the metal
surface. Preheating allows the resin to cover these impurities.
Airbrush: The best sprayer for Moly ResinÔ will be an inexpensive external
mix airbrush. They usually run from $5 to $50. and can be found at discount
stores, as well as, hobby shops and are powered by a aerosol can of air, air
tank, spare tire, or air compressor. The external mix airbrush mixes the air
and Moly ResinÔ on the outside of the airbrush. External airbrushes are much
easier to clean than internal mix airbrushes. In addition, internal
airbrushes are usually more expensive. An airbrush will spray a much smaller
amount of coating thus reducing over-spray, waste and wet glossy spots. You
may order an airbrush for $9.99 by contacting Harbor Freight Tools at
1-800-423-2567. Part # 06131-5JDB Airbrushes from $27.99 up are also
available at Harbor Freight. Badger Model 350 is an excellent choice at your
local hobby shop.
Adhesion: Failure to adhere to surface when cured is due to insufficient
shaking, incorrect curing temperature, using glass beads on steel, and/or the
presence of grease, oil, etc.


Clean Up: After spraying, run acetone or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) through
the airbrush to clean the tip. Acetone and MEK can be purchased at your
local hardware stores or solvent supply houses. Do not run "rubbing alcohol"
through your airbrush to clean it or use it to dilute or thin Moly ResinÔ .
Rubbing alcohol has 10% to 30% water added for medicinal purposes. Do not
mix or clean your airbrush with any solvent that has water. The water will
immediately react with uncured Moly ResinÔ making it hard to remove from the
airbrush.
Thinning: Moly ResinÔ may be thinned, diluted or cleaned up with MEK.
Thinning is normally only needed if the lid on the bottle is left off
allowing the liquid solvent to evaporate, however, you may leave the lid off
the bottle if you wish to thicken the solution.
Agitation: It is very important that every time you use Moly ResinÔ to first
vigorously shake the bottle until all residue is off the bottom. The residue
is the molybdenum and tinting agents. Failure to shake properly will produce
inconsistent coloration.
Touch Up: Moly ResinÔ may be applied over an existing cured Moly ResinÔ
finish. Cured parts or complete firearms may be retouched by simply wiping
the surface with alcohol, acetone, etc., preheating, and applying Moly ResinÔ
very lightly with an airbrush over any marred or scratched surfaces. Cure at
250 f. to 300 f. for one hour.
Color Match: Moly ResinÔ colors may be mixed together to create the perfect
shade for your project. Due to the variance in factory Colt color shades, it
is usually easier to refinish the entire firearm rather than experiment with
blending.
Rusted and Pitted Parts: There is no chemical reaction required between the
metal and Moly ResinÔ for it to adhere as required with blues, parkerizing,
anodizing, plating, etc; therefore, Moly ResinÔ may be applied over rusted
or pitted areas that have been cleaned and filled by soldering, brazing, etc.

Firearm Disassembly: Moly ResinÔ may be used for cosmetic refinishing
and/or as a protective coating against the elements. When used solely as a
cosmetic finish, it is unnecessary to completely disassemble many firearms to
refinish. In many instances a large sub-assembly of parts may be coated
without disassembly. You may sand blast, preheat, spray, and cured as one
large piece since the airbrush will allow you to apply a coating to internal
cavities and parts that you find difficult to disassemble. For example: A
revolver can be cosmetically refinished without removing the hammer or
trigger mechanisms. The hammer can be left in the forward position and
sandblasted, then cocked and again sandblasted. The sand can be washed out
with water and blown out with air pressure. After preheating, the hammer can
be sprayed in the cocked position and then allow to go forward and sprayed in
the closed position resulting in all visible parts being coated.
Sand and Other Abrasive Materials: The most appropriate material to abrasive
air blast your metal surfaces will be particles that are not round like glass
beads. Fine sand and other fine commercially available abrasives should be
in the 60 to 90 grit size. Glass beads merely polish the surface of steel
parts and will not produce a surface with good adhesion properties. Glass
beads on the softer metals such as aluminum will produce a surface that is
satisfactory.
Spray Booths and Paint Masks: As with all spray paints and aerosol
coatings, the use of either a standard automotive paint mask (organic fumes)
or fresh air ventilation, or both, is strongly advised. The fumes should not
be inhaled on a continuous and repeated basis. See Material Safety Data
Sheet (MSDS) for more information. A spray booth is not needed but is
convenient especially in foul weather. A spray booth can easily be made out
of a few 2x4 studs and clear plastic sheeting and constructed in the corner
of your garage or shop. A simple inexpensive squirrel cage blower can be
used to draw the over spray and fumes from the booth to outside air..
Ovens: A home-cooking oven can be utilized to provide the curing heat.
Simply support the parts with metal hooks from the upper oven rack for
preheating and then for curing after spraying. A more convenient method is
to build a vertical oven using a "school locker." A vertical oven allows you
to hang barrels and complete barreled receivers easily along with smaller
parts. An inexpensive toaster type oven can be purchased at your local mass
merchandiser and then disassembled. The heating coils can be installed onto
the inner walls of the oven.. The thermostat and timer can be placed on the
outside. If you decide to build such an oven feel free to contact us if you
need additional information.
Other Applications: Moly ResinÔ is currently being used as a coating by
manufacturers of shooting glasses, caustic chemical valve and automotive
parts manufacturers, gunsmith schools, as well as, for surgical tools. The
applications are numerous and varied.
Product Sizes and Prices: PRICES: Includes shipping charges via UPS in
continental U.S. C.O.D. UPS is $5.00
All colors are the same price. $19.00 / 8 ounce, $41.00 / per quart, $139.00
/ gallon.
Moly Resin products cannot be shipped by air (overnight, next day, etc).
Please Note: When ordering use the full product description such as, semi
gloss black, flat black, etc. We are unable to accept Charge Card orders.
Send Orders to: John Norrell, 2608 Grist Mill Rd.., Little Rock, AR 72227,
Fax 501-225-7864. E-Mail > SMG1022@AOL.COM

Material Safety Data Sheet
Norrell Manufacturing, 2608 Grist Mill Road, Little Rock, AR 72227
501-225-9417 501-225-7864 fax

SECTION I
Identity (as used on label): MOLY RESIN Grayish Black, Semi-Gloss
Black
Flat Black, and Silver (Stainless)
Chemical Names: Solid Film Lubricant Coating (thermal cure)
Chemical Family: Specialty Phenolic Resin
Formula: Complex Mixture
Blended and Bottled by: John Norrell Arms, Inc. d/b/a/ Norrell
Manufacturing
2608 Grist Mill Road, Little Rock, AR 72227
Hazardous Materials ID System (HMIS)
Health: 2
Flammability: 3
Reactivity: 0
Special Note: none
SECTION II - Hazardous Components and Toxicity Concentrations
Phenol (Cas # 108-95-2) Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: 5 ppm (skin)
OSHA PEL: 5 ppm (skin)
It is a severe skin and eye irritant in rabbits.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no
Ethanol (CAS #64-17-5) < 30 %
ACGIH TLV: 1000 ppm
OSHA PEL: 1000 ppm
Mild irritant to rabbit skin and a sever eye irritant.
Oral consumption by humans causes intoxication
and gastrointestinal distress.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no
Molybdenum Disulfide (CAS #1317-33-5) Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: 10 mg/m3 as MO
OSHA PEL: 10 mg/m3 as MO
May be slightly irritating.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no
Methyl Ethyl Ketone (Cas # 78-93-3) >50 %
ACGIH TLV: 200 ppm
OSHA PEL: 200 ppm
OSHA STEL: 885 mg/m3
Eye and skin irritant and may cause CNS in humans
if inhaled in concentration stronger than 125 ppm.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no
Dibasic Lead Phosphite ( Cas #12141-20-7) <10%
ACGIH TLV: .15 mg/m3 as Pb
OSHA PEL: .05 mg/m3 as Pb
May cause lead poisoning if ingested.
Carcinogenicity: Animals and Humans - yes ( according to IARC)
Carcinogenicity: Animals and Humans - no (according to NTP and OSHA)
P.M. Acetate (Cas # 108-65-6) Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: No Listing
OSHA PEL: No Listing
No adverse toxicity information available.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no
Methyl Isobutyl Ketone (Cas 3 108-10-1) <10%
ACGIH TLV: 50 ppm
OSHA PEL: 50 ppm
Irritating to the eyes and mucous membranes.
It is a narcotic in high concentrations.
Carcinogenicity: animal and humans - no

Residual Formaldehyde (Cas # 50-00-0) Trace
ACGIH TLV: 1ppm
OSHA PEL: 3 ppm
Irritating to skin, eyes, and mucous membranes.
Carcinogenicity: Animals-yes, humans-indefinite
Freon TF (Cas # 76-13-1) <10%
ACGIH TLV: 1000 ppm
OSHA PEL: 1000 ppm
Mild rabbit skin irritant. Over exposure in humans
may cause skin irritations and CNS effects in humans.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no
Cellosolve Acetate (Cas # 111-15-9) Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: 5 ppm (skin)
OSHA PEL: 100 ppm (skin)
Mild eye and skin irritant.
Carcinogenicity: animal and humans - no
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) (Cas # 9002-84-0)
Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: No Listing
ACGIH TLV: No Listing
Dust may be irritating.
Carcinogenicity: animal - yes, humans-indefinite
Stainless Steel (Powder)* (Cas # 7429-90-5) <10%
ACGIH LTV: No Listing
OSHA PEL: No Listing * used only in the
Stainless Steel Moly Resin
Inhalation of powdered metals has been
reported to cause pulmonary fibrosis.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no
Inorganic Barium Compound <10%
ACGIH LTV: 0.5 mg/m3
OSHA PEL: 0.5 mg/m3
Mild skin and eye irritant.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no
Toluene (Cas #108-88-3) <10%
AGCIH TLV: 100 ppm
OSHA PEL: 100 ppm
Suggested to cause liver damage in animals
if ingested.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no
Isopropyl Alcohol (Cas # 67-63-0) Trade Secret
AGCIH TLV: 400 ppm
OSHA PEL: 400 ppm
Irritant to eyes, nose and throat.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no
Xylene (Cas #1330-20-7) <10%
ACGIH TLV: 100 ppm
OSHA PEL: 100 ppm
Mild skin irritant in rabbits and a severe eye irritant.
Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no
SECTION III - Chemical & Physical Characteristics
Boiling range 165 f. to 180 f.
Density 8.1
Vapor Pressure NA
Melting Point NA
Vapor Density (air =1) >1
Evaporating rate NA
Solubility in H2O Moderate
Appearance / Odor Gray-black liquid, organic solvent odor
Silver colored liquid, organic solvent odor (Stainless Steel Moly
Resin only)
Volatile Organic Compound 672


SECTION IV - Fire and Explosive Hazard Data
Flash Point: 50 f.
Flammable Limits: LEL 4.3, UEL 19.0
Extinguishing Media: CO2, Foam, Dry Chemical, or Halon
Special Fire Fighting Procedures: None
Unusual Fire and Explosive Hazards:None
SECTION V - Reactivity Data
Stability: Stable
Conditions to Avoid: Open flame
Incompatibility Strong
Decomposition: Irritating and toxic fumes
Complex Hydrocarbons
Hydrogen Sulphide and Sulfur Dioxide
Polymerization: Will not occur
Conditions to Avoid: None


Augdog


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"One man with courage makes a majority."

[This message has been edited by Augdog (edited December 19, 2000).]
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Old December 19, 2000, 22:30   #2
CC
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Augdog: A rose by any other name (Metacol III) would smell as sweet. Me thinks it is the same. At least that is what my gas cromatograph mass spectrometer tells me...CC
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Old December 20, 2000, 10:25   #3
FALPhil
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CC:

Do you really have a gas chromatagraph? I wrote a GC graphic program once in Fortran.

Quote:
Originally posted by CC:
At least that is what my gas cromatograph mass spectrometer tells me...CC


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Old December 20, 2000, 12:04   #4
RThomas
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Jeez, doesn't EVERYONE have a gas chromatograph...........?

LOL,
RT
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Old December 20, 2000, 21:45   #5
CC
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I still have access to the ones where I use to work. All eight of them...CC
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Old December 21, 2000, 16:33   #6
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Kewl.

The program I wrote displayed the histogram in color on a 3279-4 graphic terminal. I was facinated by the technology. Would have used APL, but Fortran was faster.

What kind of work do you do that you need 8 of these puppies?

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Originally posted by CC:
I still have access to the ones where I use to work. All eight of them...CC


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Old December 22, 2000, 00:59   #7
timg953
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Quote:
Originally posted by CC:
Augdog: A rose by any other name (Metacol III) would smell as sweet. Me thinks it is the same. At least that is what my gas cromatograph mass spectrometer tells me...CC
Moly Resin is good stuff. I've been using it since around '94 with no problems as long as I did the prep right. My carry gun is a Colt Commander with a flat black moly resin finish. My latest FAL is molyed over parkerizing. I reccomend it highly.

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Old December 22, 2000, 15:46   #8
CC
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Phil: Petrochemical plant. Out of the eight two are usually down for one reason or the other. Back in the eighties I bought a Ford Bronco. The door panels turned to chalk in about one year. I bought new door panels and the same thing happened again. We checked the plastic through one of our units. It showed a starch mixed in with the plastic. This was back in the days when US auto Co's had planned obsolence. Boy, was I pissed at Ford. Never bought another one. Timg953: Moly Resin over park is the way to go. The park acts like a sponge to hold the moly resin. This combo work great together...CC
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Old December 23, 2000, 03:03   #9
derek huffman, azexarms
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No kidding? LMAO. sent ya a card, dude, keep an eye out for it. D.
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Old December 23, 2000, 03:29   #10
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Ok Derek, I'll keep a eye out for it. Hey, I know your swamped right now, but I'm gonna send you a couple of DSA scope mounts to refinish soon. Thanks Derek...CC
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Old December 24, 2000, 11:34   #11
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Could someone please post a link or URL to Norrell's web-site. I cannot seem to find it anywhere and I know he had one. Thanks, FLC
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Old March 12, 2001, 00:26   #12
panzer
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go to www.funsupply.com/firearms/finish.html
and they have a link to his e-mail and alot of finish options with explanations,sorry no carbo-spectro-urinalysis data

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Old March 12, 2001, 02:22   #13
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What's the difference between this and Gunkote?

Matt
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Old March 12, 2001, 09:47   #14
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Thanks a million Augdog, I've got to admit I read about a third of your post. (a bit dry)
But I believe I got the gist of it.

So according to "CC" "Metacol III" is synonymous with Norrell's Moly. I would assume that "Metacol" I and II were earlier variations.

Thanks,

Bill
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Old February 20, 2010, 12:55   #15
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KG Gun kote is the company that manufactures the finish
for Norrel's. I used Johns products, but if you need more
colors go to the source Gun kote.
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Old March 17, 2010, 14:48   #16
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The only thing I would question is John Norrel's customer service.

I emailed him over a week ago to make a can for my Ruger MKII and I still haven't heard from him.

At least email me F*** Y** and your money so I would know to buy it from someone else.

M2MG
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Old March 17, 2010, 15:02   #17
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Take a gander,,,used outside the bbl.,,, and in the bore:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yr8j8kZwXrc
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Old March 17, 2010, 20:40   #18
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Just go to the source @ www.kgcoatings.com/
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