painting receiver?

Speedfish · September 14, 2003, 01:42

Hello,
I am gathering info for my first build. When I paint the receiver, do I paint the inside as well as the outside or just the outside? Should I keep the threaded portions unpainted or paint them as well? The receiver is already parked. Should I clean the parked receiver with anything before painting? I am planning on using "Gun Kote 2401" any experience with this as to how well it will match British black paint?
Thanks,

Speedfish

ONG · September 14, 2003, 05:47

Hey Speedfish,

Only paint the outside of the receiver!! Do not paint the threads. Tape everything off & lightly screw a plug into the holes. I know, I have the T shirt.

I used Duracoat and it worked great, my next paint job will be Gun Coat. I use acetone to clean all parts before painting.

flyer05 · September 14, 2003, 07:50

Build the rifle first, than paint the whole thing. Gun kote works great.

Kulaman308 · September 14, 2003, 08:54

Use an Airbrush,if possible.You get smooth ,even coating. I first Heat up the Barrel/Reciever to 300 deg for 40min,then Degrease.You may notice that you will have to degrease again,as the Heat brings out the oil and grease that was hiding.On my latest FAL,I had to do the step 2x's,I kept getting oil coming out by the Head Spacing hole.Use Gunkote,or k-kote,don't know if their the same,but once applied correctly,then baked on at 375deg for 1hour,you will have a coating that resists all oils,cleaners,etc.Plus even scratches,it has a moly in it that makes the surface slick to those unwanted scratches. good luck.

thud · September 14, 2003, 18:37

I've used GunKote on several firearms. It's great stuff. Just make sure that you get all the grease. Just like "measure twice, cut once", you need to "bake twice, GunKote once". The guys at GunKote recommend throughly heating the rife to drive all the oil and grease out of the parkerizing.

Every weapon I"ve build, I've always sandblasted and parkized all the parts even though they may have been parkerized before. And, I do the inside, too. I then Gunkote all the parts and all the surfaces except those that specifically need to be kept clean ( the face of the locking shoulder, the face of the bolt, the breech, the gas piston, the sear, etc.). If the original part was chrome plated or polished, it was meant to stay that way. And, even if you do go over board on the GunKote, it will probalby have no effect on the rifle.

Good luck and keep us posted on your results.

Court in Fl · September 14, 2003, 21:40

Like flyer05 said, build it, fire it, make sure it works, than blast and paint.

Court in Fl.

ONG · September 15, 2003, 09:39

Guess you guys are not using your wifes oven to bake your rifles in? Assembled they won't fit in either of our ovens.

The Armour · September 15, 2003, 10:14

When it comes to gunkote it is best to use something other than the wifes oven, this will keep serious problems from happening. I built an oven from a wood smoker BBQ from walmart ($80), some duckboard, and a 2000 watt heat gun(Indusrial type). Insulate the BBQ smoker with the duckboard, cut a hole at the bottom and in stall the heat gun fabricate a tube from 3" dryer hose that goes from the inlet on the heatgun to a hole at the top of the BBQ oven this helps circulate the air and promotes faster drying. I used a digital temp control unit but you can use a vent hole in the top and a candy thermometer to help regulate the temp. If you need help building one shoot me an email and I will help. The total cost is about $150-$200 if you buy things new but can be much less if you can locate some items at home or at work.Good Luck.

Herr Walther · September 15, 2003, 17:26

I have a lot of experience with using the Brownell's Teflon/Moly finishes. I've used the Gun-Kote they started selling on occasion, mostly on SIG-Sauers and Berettas.

I couldn't stuff an assembled STG58 in my oven, so I did it like I do all the other firearms I've re-finished. Individual pieces. Inside and outside gets sprayed. The only problem child I had was a Para-Ordinance I recently re-finished. The gun was very tight to begin with and after the Teflon/Moly I couldn't hardly get the slide back on the frame. I sanded the rails a bit on the frame and the slide slots and it worked out OK.

It takes longer, but the job comes out better and you know all the parts are sprayed. I heat the degreased parts at 140F for 30 minutes to leach out remaining lube and then back into the lacquer thinner bath. After another scrub and drying, then back into the oven for another 30 minutes. After I'm satisfied that the oil has been removed, then it's time for spraying.

The Teflon/Moly Dark Parkerizing Gray looks very good and is hard to tell from actuall Parkerizing. It's the first time I've used this color and it won't be the last.
It even has that slight Parkerized sparkle up close that you see when Parkerizing is dry.

I would have much rather re-Parked it for real, but I'm not set up for that yet. Maybe this winter.

September 14, 2003, 01:42	#1
Speedfish Registered FALaholic #: 6547 Join Date: May 2002 Location: South Carolina Posts: 356	painting receiver? Hello, I am gathering info for my first build. When I paint the receiver, do I paint the inside as well as the outside or just the outside? Should I keep the threaded portions unpainted or paint them as well? The receiver is already parked. Should I clean the parked receiver with anything before painting? I am planning on using "Gun Kote 2401" any experience with this as to how well it will match British black paint? Thanks, Speedfish

September 14, 2003, 05:47	#2
ONG Registered FALaholic #: 5775 Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,334	Hey Speedfish, Only paint the outside of the receiver!! Do not paint the threads. Tape everything off & lightly screw a plug into the holes. I know, I have the T shirt. I used Duracoat and it worked great, my next paint job will be Gun Coat. I use acetone to clean all parts before painting. __________________ “I will keep my freedom my guns, my money. You can keep THE CHANGE.”

September 14, 2003, 07:50	#3
flyer05 Registered FALaholic #: 5812 Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Ypsilanti, MI Posts: 339	Build the rifle first, than paint the whole thing. Gun kote works great. __________________ It's all good

September 14, 2003, 08:54	#4
Kulaman308 Registered FALaholic #: 6870 Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: HIGH SPRINGS,FL. Posts: 110	Use an Airbrush,if possible.You get smooth ,even coating. I first Heat up the Barrel/Reciever to 300 deg for 40min,then Degrease.You may notice that you will have to degrease again,as the Heat brings out the oil and grease that was hiding.On my latest FAL,I had to do the step 2x's,I kept getting oil coming out by the Head Spacing hole.Use Gunkote,or k-kote,don't know if their the same,but once applied correctly,then baked on at 375deg for 1hour,you will have a coating that resists all oils,cleaners,etc.Plus even scratches,it has a moly in it that makes the surface slick to those unwanted scratches. good luck. __________________ Fal Freak

September 15, 2003, 09:39	#7
ONG Registered FALaholic #: 5775 Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,334	Guess you guys are not using your wifes oven to bake your rifles in? Assembled they won't fit in either of our ovens. __________________ “I will keep my freedom my guns, my money. You can keep THE CHANGE.”

September 14, 2003, 18:37	#5
thud Registered FALaholic #: 4725 Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 87	I've used GunKote on several firearms. It's great stuff. Just make sure that you get all the grease. Just like "measure twice, cut once", you need to "bake twice, GunKote once". The guys at GunKote recommend throughly heating the rife to drive all the oil and grease out of the parkerizing. Every weapon I"ve build, I've always sandblasted and parkized all the parts even though they may have been parkerized before. And, I do the inside, too. I then Gunkote all the parts and all the surfaces except those that specifically need to be kept clean ( the face of the locking shoulder, the face of the bolt, the breech, the gas piston, the sear, etc.). If the original part was chrome plated or polished, it was meant to stay that way. And, even if you do go over board on the GunKote, it will probalby have no effect on the rifle. Good luck and keep us posted on your results.

September 14, 2003, 21:40	#6
Court in Fl Curio & Relic FALaholic #: 5046 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: South Florida Posts: 3,150	Like flyer05 said, build it, fire it, make sure it works, than blast and paint. Court in Fl.

September 15, 2003, 10:14	#8
The Armour Registered FALaholic #: 10778 Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Lexington, KY. Posts: 460	When it comes to gunkote it is best to use something other than the wifes oven, this will keep serious problems from happening. I built an oven from a wood smoker BBQ from walmart ($80), some duckboard, and a 2000 watt heat gun(Indusrial type). Insulate the BBQ smoker with the duckboard, cut a hole at the bottom and in stall the heat gun fabricate a tube from 3" dryer hose that goes from the inlet on the heatgun to a hole at the top of the BBQ oven this helps circulate the air and promotes faster drying. I used a digital temp control unit but you can use a vent hole in the top and a candy thermometer to help regulate the temp. If you need help building one shoot me an email and I will help. The total cost is about $150-$200 if you buy things new but can be much less if you can locate some items at home or at work.Good Luck.

September 15, 2003, 17:26	#9
Herr Walther Registered FALaholic #: 11681 Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: A Place almost as bad as California Posts: 292	I have a lot of experience with using the Brownell's Teflon/Moly finishes. I've used the Gun-Kote they started selling on occasion, mostly on SIG-Sauers and Berettas. I couldn't stuff an assembled STG58 in my oven, so I did it like I do all the other firearms I've re-finished. Individual pieces. Inside and outside gets sprayed. The only problem child I had was a Para-Ordinance I recently re-finished. The gun was very tight to begin with and after the Teflon/Moly I couldn't hardly get the slide back on the frame. I sanded the rails a bit on the frame and the slide slots and it worked out OK. It takes longer, but the job comes out better and you know all the parts are sprayed. I heat the degreased parts at 140F for 30 minutes to leach out remaining lube and then back into the lacquer thinner bath. After another scrub and drying, then back into the oven for another 30 minutes. After I'm satisfied that the oil has been removed, then it's time for spraying. The Teflon/Moly Dark Parkerizing Gray looks very good and is hard to tell from actuall Parkerizing. It's the first time I've used this color and it won't be the last. It even has that slight Parkerized sparkle up close that you see when Parkerizing is dry. I would have much rather re-Parked it for real, but I'm not set up for that yet. Maybe this winter. __________________ Peace is our Profession, War is just a Hobby. SAC WILL BE BACK!

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