Brownell's Dicropan IM Bluing?

Regal Beagal · May 21, 2003, 14:59

Well, I decided to try and blue an old SXS for a friend of mine and didn't want to hassel with cooking up a whole tank of bluing salts. I followed the instructions to the "T" and the Dicropan didn't take. It turned out all splotchy. Has anyone else used this product with success? The instructions said that you could use tap water as long as it doesn't have a lot of minerals, so I used our city tap which I have used before without any problems. Second the instructions said to not polish past 400 grit buffing compound/rouge. I have a feeling that I may have buffed it a little to bright and that I should probably use distilled water instead of tap. I also dried the parts after extracting them from the 180 degree water and carded them with #1 degreased and dried steel wool, so I don't feel that my carding process had anything to do with it. Any opinions? Thanks RB

blackbird · May 21, 2003, 17:23

RB, IM has worked beautifully for me but I did use distilled/deionized water and left the finish at the 400 grit state of prep. I have done about a dozen rifles/shotguns.

However, I did not find the actual amount of effort ("hands on" time) to be significantly less than a Pilkington "slow rust" blue which is more forgiving, controllable, and, IMHO, more lustrous and durable (VERY IMPORTANT to use distilled/deionized water for the boil steps with it). The one drawback to the "slow rust" was total elapsed time where IM has a major advantage.

Since I am not doing it commercially, elapsed time is not a consideration so I haven't gone back to the IM since.

elbo · May 21, 2003, 19:06

Try polishing with blocked paper. The wheel may be burnishing the metal.

I have to agree with blackbird about the Pilkington, it's my finish of choice.(when I get off my dead ass)
As a bonus for me the Pilkington can be done after work. Boil, card, apply and wait till tomorrow.

May 21, 2003, 19:06	#3
elbo Registered FALaholic #: 8362 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: va Posts: 2,803	Try polishing with blocked paper. The wheel may be burnishing the metal. I have to agree with blackbird about the Pilkington, it's my finish of choice.(when I get off my dead ass) As a bonus for me the Pilkington can be done after work. Boil, card, apply and wait till tomorrow. __________________ Keep your trust in God; Your government has failed you miserably. The Lord Gives Me Grace and the Devil Gives Me Style

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May 21, 2003, 14:59	#1
Regal Beagal Registered FALaholic #: 91 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Carolina-the beach Posts: 1,008	Brownell's Dicropan IM Bluing? Well, I decided to try and blue an old SXS for a friend of mine and didn't want to hassel with cooking up a whole tank of bluing salts. I followed the instructions to the "T" and the Dicropan didn't take. It turned out all splotchy. Has anyone else used this product with success? The instructions said that you could use tap water as long as it doesn't have a lot of minerals, so I used our city tap which I have used before without any problems. Second the instructions said to not polish past 400 grit buffing compound/rouge. I have a feeling that I may have buffed it a little to bright and that I should probably use distilled water instead of tap. I also dried the parts after extracting them from the 180 degree water and carded them with #1 degreased and dried steel wool, so I don't feel that my carding process had anything to do with it. Any opinions? Thanks RB

May 21, 2003, 17:23	#2
blackbird Registered FALaholic #: 5487 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 867	RB, IM has worked beautifully for me but I did use distilled/deionized water and left the finish at the 400 grit state of prep. I have done about a dozen rifles/shotguns. However, I did not find the actual amount of effort ("hands on" time) to be significantly less than a Pilkington "slow rust" blue which is more forgiving, controllable, and, IMHO, more lustrous and durable (VERY IMPORTANT to use distilled/deionized water for the boil steps with it). The one drawback to the "slow rust" was total elapsed time where IM has a major advantage. Since I am not doing it commercially, elapsed time is not a consideration so I haven't gone back to the IM since.