Who puts their bbl in a vise?

2nd2none · November 30, 2002, 15:57

Just wondering how many people put their bbls, in a vise when building? And if you guys use inserts and what kind?
Thanks

**W.E.G.** · November 30, 2002, 16:10

I clamp the flats in the Wilton when I'm torquing the receiver with the breaker bar and receiver wrench. This pic from the Cruffler.com site.

omar · November 30, 2002, 16:53

I've done six builds, one unbarreling and used it countless occasions just to hold the rifle while I perform surgery on them while clamped firmly in my WECSOG vise.
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...highlight=vise
I used two highly non-expensive 1x4 pieces of oak liberated from a warehouse pallet. I clamped them together and drilled a hole through them. So far I've used the same two pieces for all builds, along with a pinch of rosin (available from any sporting goods store) to keep them from spinning. The grain should bisect the barrel, not parallel it. Otherwise they will crack under even light pressure.

Jim

Gaspipe · November 30, 2002, 17:00

I generally clamp the flats in the shop vise and torque the receiver to the barrel. I have built them the other way when on the traveling roadshow by clamping the receiver wrench into the vise and using a wrench to torque the barrel, but that isn't my preferred method.

For removing receiver stubs, I use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel to 'thin' the area in the charging handle slot, and then crack the receiver stub with a cold chisel.

Templator · November 30, 2002, 20:29

A dedicated barrel vise with inserts which match the contour of the barrel is the "no sweat" method of barreling a receiver. They cost a few bucks, but they make the chore very easy.

Upside Down @ 100 MPH · November 30, 2002, 20:38

What Templator said.

I like to get my barrels TIGHT. Tighter than I can get them using the barrel flats anyway.

Aren't the barrel flats there to locate the handguard ring?

L1-A1 · November 30, 2002, 21:14

I also like to use a dedicated barrel vice with tapered inserts with a little rosen. I have tried different methods but always go back to useing the barrel vice. This is also the method I use to barrel everything from FAL's to Remington 700's.
L1-A1

gunsmith_tony · November 30, 2002, 22:59

I believe it to be a matter of contact area vs necessary torque.
Using proper vise inserts allows for the utilization of a much greater contact area between the inserts and the outer diameter of the barrel. Applying vise pressure only to the barrel flats uses only a small contact area, and may disfigure the barrel if a large amount of torque is required. Therefore, I would not recomend doing it. Of course, that doesn't mean it hasn't been done successfully by others. Don't try it with a typical "Bench" vise. IF you have access to a good-size machine vise, and IF your barrel hand-times at say...11:15 to 11:30, you MAY be able to install your barrel without damaging the flats.

JoeLad · December 01, 2002, 09:51

I also use a dedicated barrel vise. I have had my problems tho...

Can I get inserts for the Casey barrel blocks? I had some barrel slippage in the blocks even using rosin. Not a big deal, but it is a little frustrating and also leaves smudges of aluminum on the barrel.

I have an L1A1 barreled right now, but not to TDC, because it keeps slipping in the blocks. Maybe I should try the barrel flats in the vise method.

FJ

TexMac · December 01, 2002, 10:56

I've done 5, now, and done it both ways -- never with the tools I really SHOULD have had. Using what was there at the time, I've had the best successes with the receiver in the vise, using copper jaw blocks with masking tape on the receiver sides, and the bolt carrier full-forward in the receiver. I've got an old flat-jawed adjustable wrench (looks like an old pipe wrench with no teeth in the jaws), and this has timed pre-11:00 barrels, twice. Just seems to bear down tighter as I put the pull to it, and it doesn't round out the flats. Zero receiver distortions and the tape minimizes the copper transfer to the receiver.

larphred · December 01, 2002, 11:35

I use a homemade barrel vise built on plans given to me by MSNYDER. Make 2 identical halves--iron channel welded to boiler plate. Pour molten lead into channels, then displace some of the molten lead with a piece of copper tubing smaller than the barrel diameter. Drill six holes for bolts, clamp the two halves together and voila, dandy vise. Getting a little loose after using it many times so last time I had to use rosin to make sure it helt tightly.

Don Williams · December 01, 2002, 15:59

actually I put the bolt carrier and bolt in the receiver, put the receiver in a set of AR15 barrel blocks and then use a crescent wrench to torque the barrel on. That's what Gun Plumber said to do years ago and it's worked multiple times with me.

BIG50 · December 01, 2002, 16:17

I just made one of the coolest barrel vises using a 12 ton bottle jack and some scrap steel remnants I have around $65.00 into it counting the jack. (not counting the Alumunum blocks)
I have destroyed 3 vises in the last 3 years and deceided to build one that would last forever and one that would not let the barrel slip or get marred from a vise.
I also made a flash hider/muzzel brake wrench removal and installation tool that is welded to the top of this press
I have already barreled 10 new receivers in the last week to test it out without one barrel slipping at all.
I am going to take pictures of it today.
I do not know how to post them here on the board so if one of you guys can do this I will email them to you.
BIG50

MY new email address is ( big50hk@netzero.com )

omar · December 01, 2002, 18:19

Damn.

My life must be over if all I want to see is what this vise looks like, as opposed to seeing a hot chick. Anyway, I look forward to the pics of the vise, since Rube Goldberg devices are more interesting. (sigh)

motosapien · February 27, 2003, 08:40

Just wanted to remove the reciever stub before I send it off to the smith. Is it a bad idea to clamp the barrel flats in the vice and use a pipe wrench on the receiver stub?

This is pretty heavy duty compared to an AR build which I've done a half dozen of, all great functioning.

Moto

medicmike · February 27, 2003, 11:27

I use a huge Columbian vice with a pair of blocks that I made from aluminum. You are going to have a heck of a time getting the reciever stub off that way. They way I always remove them is to use an abrasive cut off wheel (mine a large air powered on but a Dremel will work fine if a little slower). Cut into the receiver inside the cocking handle slot until you just see the threads. When you get a slot cut a couple whacks with a hammer to a cold chisel wedged in the cocking handle slot will split it right open to be unscrewed easily. If done correctly you won't have any marks on the barrel threads but even if you nick them a bit, it wont hurt a thing. I can pull a reciever stub off in this manner in a couple min's.

SpitNine · February 27, 2003, 12:24

I use the 8" Kurt milling vise, which is attached to a Bridgeport clone milling machine at work. Free of course.
Clamp the barrel flats in the vise as tight as you can and turn the receiver with a wrench. I have an AIG from DSA.
Works great. For removing stubs, it is not necessary to do any slotting. Just tighten everything up and pull hard. You don't even need to bleed.
Thanks.

**gw11** · February 27, 2003, 16:47

2nd2none
I clamp my barrels in vise using 2- 3/8" crs key stock shims. The key stock gets crushed, not the flats. And my receiver wrench looks to be the same as Gary's.
gw11

Eric Bryant · February 27, 2003, 16:59

When barreling a receiver, I simply clamp the flats into the vise on one of the Bridgeports at work. So far, so good - haven't had any problems so far.

If I had to use my bench vise at home, then I'd definitely be looking to build up a set of barrel vise blocks.

justashooter · February 27, 2003, 17:26

i clamp flats in a big honkin farm vise, and don't worry about marks, cause i'm gonna paint it black, anyway.

show it next to a 4" wilton for scale. got both for $7 each at a farm sale, and never bothered to bolt the damned wilton down.

LtRiker · February 27, 2003, 22:18

I made my own bbl vise out of some scrap metal and a 1" allen head bolt....the bolt clamps the bbl between two pieces of oak and I have NEVER had slippage.....done many FALs, Garands, and carbines, plus a few Rems...7, 700, 788...even a few old savage shotgun bbls that were threaded into the receiver like a rifle....
lever guns are tough due to odd shape of receiver, but I believe Garands are the worst to deal with....

did one a while back that had teeth marks from a pipe wrench...two tugs and it was out....guy gave me an extra $10 for "saving his life"...funny, he never came back to get a new bbl installed....

G1user · February 27, 2003, 22:55

I made the one as shown on the gunthings site.
Used 1/2 inch plate instead of 9/16ths inch tho--couldn't find any.
I went snooping at the local scrap heap, and in about 20 minutes located the prescribed stock in three foot sections, painted almost brand new even.
Guy who ownes the scrap heap gave it to me free.
Cut the stock to the dimensions with circular saw, and drilled holes.
New number 8 nuts and bolts, washers cost a few bucks from the hardware store.
Lead was free at the range; melted it in an old pot over the coleman; poured it all in the mold in one long pour.
Heavy, and it works great.

motosapien · February 28, 2003, 19:21

Quote:

Originally posted by medicmike
I use a huge Columbian vice with a pair of blocks that I made from aluminum. You are going to have a heck of a time getting the reciever stub off that way. They way I always remove them is to use an abrasive cut off wheel (mine a large air powered on but a Dremel will work fine if a little slower). Cut into the receiver inside the cocking handle slot until you just see the threads. When you get a slot cut a couple whacks with a hammer to a cold chisel wedged in the cocking handle slot will split it right open to be unscrewed easily. If done correctly you won't have any marks on the barrel threads but even if you nick them a bit, it wont hurt a thing. I can pull a reciever stub off in this manner in a couple min's.

I tried it and it worked. Buzzed one thread abit but not bad. I could'nt see them in the cut. THanks for the tip!

Moto

skfullgun · February 28, 2003, 21:53

Quote:

" i clamp flats in a big honkin farm vise, and don't worry about marks, cause i'm gonna paint it black, anyway."

I think that's the most awesome vise I've ever seen! Can you imagine the stories that vise could tell.

November 30, 2002, 15:57	#1
2nd2none Registered FALaholic #: 1870 Join Date: Dec 2000 Posts: 37	Who puts their bbl in a vise? Just wondering how many people put their bbls, in a vise when building? And if you guys use inserts and what kind? Thanks

November 30, 2002, 17:00	#4
Gaspipe Registered FALaholic #: 2131 Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: South of the Mason Dixon Line Posts: 610	I generally clamp the flats in the shop vise and torque the receiver to the barrel. I have built them the other way when on the traveling roadshow by clamping the receiver wrench into the vise and using a wrench to torque the barrel, but that isn't my preferred method. For removing receiver stubs, I use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel to 'thin' the area in the charging handle slot, and then crack the receiver stub with a cold chisel. __________________ gaspipe [the original]

November 30, 2002, 20:29	#5
Templator Registered FALaholic #: 4460 Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Lexington Posts: 1,760	A dedicated barrel vise with inserts which match the contour of the barrel is the "no sweat" method of barreling a receiver. They cost a few bucks, but they make the chore very easy. __________________ I look with commiseration upon the great body of my fellow Americans who, reading newspapers, live and die in the belief that they have known something of what has passed in the world around them. Harry Truman

November 30, 2002, 20:38	#6
Upside Down @ 100 MPH Unregistered FALaholic #: 2405 Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 659	What Templator said. I like to get my barrels TIGHT. Tighter than I can get them using the barrel flats anyway. Aren't the barrel flats there to locate the handguard ring? __________________ "It is not the facts that guide many through life but their beliefs about what the facts are that guide them. " -DABTL-

November 30, 2002, 21:14	#7
L1-A1 Registered FALaholic #: 5998 Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Sandusky, OH Posts: 23	I also like to use a dedicated barrel vice with tapered inserts with a little rosen. I have tried different methods but always go back to useing the barrel vice. This is also the method I use to barrel everything from FAL's to Remington 700's. L1-A1 __________________ The Gunworks Gunsmithing/Retail/FFL Transfers Sandusky,OH

November 30, 2002, 16:53	#3
omar Registered FALaholic #: 2752 Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: El Paso Posts: 459	I've done six builds, one unbarreling and used it countless occasions just to hold the rifle while I perform surgery on them while clamped firmly in my WECSOG vise. http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...highlight=vise I used two highly non-expensive 1x4 pieces of oak liberated from a warehouse pallet. I clamped them together and drilled a hole through them. So far I've used the same two pieces for all builds, along with a pinch of rosin (available from any sporting goods store) to keep them from spinning. The grain should bisect the barrel, not parallel it. Otherwise they will crack under even light pressure. Jim

November 30, 2002, 22:59	#8
gunsmith_tony Registered FALaholic #: 6564 Join Date: May 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 2,521	I believe it to be a matter of contact area vs necessary torque. Using proper vise inserts allows for the utilization of a much greater contact area between the inserts and the outer diameter of the barrel. Applying vise pressure only to the barrel flats uses only a small contact area, and may disfigure the barrel if a large amount of torque is required. Therefore, I would not recomend doing it. Of course, that doesn't mean it hasn't been done successfully by others. Don't try it with a typical "Bench" vise. IF you have access to a good-size machine vise, and IF your barrel hand-times at say...11:15 to 11:30, you MAY be able to install your barrel without damaging the flats.

December 01, 2002, 09:51	#9
JoeLad Registered FALaholic #: 3353 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: SE PA Posts: 3,243	I also use a dedicated barrel vise. I have had my problems tho... Can I get inserts for the Casey barrel blocks? I had some barrel slippage in the blocks even using rosin. Not a big deal, but it is a little frustrating and also leaves smudges of aluminum on the barrel. I have an L1A1 barreled right now, but not to TDC, because it keeps slipping in the blocks. Maybe I should try the barrel flats in the vise method. FJ

December 01, 2002, 10:56	#10
TexMac Registered FALaholic #: 7389 Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Georgetown, Texas Posts: 53	I've done 5, now, and done it both ways -- never with the tools I really SHOULD have had. Using what was there at the time, I've had the best successes with the receiver in the vise, using copper jaw blocks with masking tape on the receiver sides, and the bolt carrier full-forward in the receiver. I've got an old flat-jawed adjustable wrench (looks like an old pipe wrench with no teeth in the jaws), and this has timed pre-11:00 barrels, twice. Just seems to bear down tighter as I put the pull to it, and it doesn't round out the flats. Zero receiver distortions and the tape minimizes the copper transfer to the receiver.

December 01, 2002, 11:35	#11
larphred Registered FALaholic #: 1555 Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Sandy, Ut. Posts: 3,098	I use a homemade barrel vise built on plans given to me by MSNYDER. Make 2 identical halves--iron channel welded to boiler plate. Pour molten lead into channels, then displace some of the molten lead with a piece of copper tubing smaller than the barrel diameter. Drill six holes for bolts, clamp the two halves together and voila, dandy vise. Getting a little loose after using it many times so last time I had to use rosin to make sure it helt tightly. __________________ Michael O'Sullivan was my great friend. But I don't ever remember telling him that. The words that are spoken at a funeral are spoken too late for the man who is dead. What a wonderful thing it would be to visit your own funeral. To sit at the front and hear what was said, maybe say a few things yourself. Michael and I grew old together. But at times, when we laughed, we grew young. If he was here now, if he could hear what I say, I'd congratulate him on being a great man, and thank him for being a friend. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --the forty-four spoke and it sent lead and smoke, and seventeen inches of flame. ----Marty Robbins

December 01, 2002, 15:59	#12
Don Williams Registered FALaholic #: 2580 Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Green River Wy USA Posts: 351	I put the receiver in the vice actually I put the bolt carrier and bolt in the receiver, put the receiver in a set of AR15 barrel blocks and then use a crescent wrench to torque the barrel on. That's what Gun Plumber said to do years ago and it's worked multiple times with me. __________________ avoid the chinese curse and be careful what you wish for.

December 01, 2002, 16:17	#13
BIG50 Registered FALaholic #: 1441 Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: USA Posts: 634	Barreling a FAL I just made one of the coolest barrel vises using a 12 ton bottle jack and some scrap steel remnants I have around $65.00 into it counting the jack. (not counting the Alumunum blocks) I have destroyed 3 vises in the last 3 years and deceided to build one that would last forever and one that would not let the barrel slip or get marred from a vise. I also made a flash hider/muzzel brake wrench removal and installation tool that is welded to the top of this press I have already barreled 10 new receivers in the last week to test it out without one barrel slipping at all. I am going to take pictures of it today. I do not know how to post them here on the board so if one of you guys can do this I will email them to you. BIG50 MY new email address is ( big50hk@netzero.com ) Last edited by BIG50; December 01, 2002 at 16:22.

December 01, 2002, 18:19	#14
omar Registered FALaholic #: 2752 Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: El Paso Posts: 459	Damn. My life must be over if all I want to see is what this vise looks like, as opposed to seeing a hot chick. Anyway, I look forward to the pics of the vise, since Rube Goldberg devices are more interesting. (sigh)

February 27, 2003, 08:40	#15
motosapien Registered FALaholic #: 9349 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: MN Posts: 2,176	Flats in vice, receiver stub/pipe wrench? Just wanted to remove the reciever stub before I send it off to the smith. Is it a bad idea to clamp the barrel flats in the vice and use a pipe wrench on the receiver stub? This is pretty heavy duty compared to an AR build which I've done a half dozen of, all great functioning. Moto __________________ Outside there's a boxcar waiting.......

February 27, 2003, 11:27	#16
medicmike Registered FALaholic #: 3183 Join Date: May 2001 Location: Southern Oregon Posts: 2,270	I use a huge Columbian vice with a pair of blocks that I made from aluminum. You are going to have a heck of a time getting the reciever stub off that way. They way I always remove them is to use an abrasive cut off wheel (mine a large air powered on but a Dremel will work fine if a little slower). Cut into the receiver inside the cocking handle slot until you just see the threads. When you get a slot cut a couple whacks with a hammer to a cold chisel wedged in the cocking handle slot will split it right open to be unscrewed easily. If done correctly you won't have any marks on the barrel threads but even if you nick them a bit, it wont hurt a thing. I can pull a reciever stub off in this manner in a couple min's. __________________ "Stand your ground. Don't fire unless fired upon, but if they mean to have a war, let it begin here." Captain John Parker at Lexington Green

February 27, 2003, 12:24	#17
SpitNine Registered FALaholic #: 7263 Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NE PA Posts: 166	VISE I use the 8" Kurt milling vise, which is attached to a Bridgeport clone milling machine at work. Free of course. Clamp the barrel flats in the vise as tight as you can and turn the receiver with a wrench. I have an AIG from DSA. Works great. For removing stubs, it is not necessary to do any slotting. Just tighten everything up and pull hard. You don't even need to bleed. Thanks. __________________ Nobody Gets Out Alive.

February 27, 2003, 16:47	#18
gw11 Veteran Member Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 2731 Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: CT. USA Posts: 1,404	2nd2none I clamp my barrels in vise using 2- 3/8" crs key stock shims. The key stock gets crushed, not the flats. And my receiver wrench looks to be the same as Gary's. gw11

February 27, 2003, 16:59	#19
Eric Bryant Registered FALaholic #: 7670 Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West MI Posts: 2,189	When barreling a receiver, I simply clamp the flats into the vise on one of the Bridgeports at work. So far, so good - haven't had any problems so far. If I had to use my bench vise at home, then I'd definitely be looking to build up a set of barrel vise blocks.

February 27, 2003, 22:18	#21
LtRiker Registered FALaholic #: 8652 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Wichita Falls, TX Posts: 444	I made my own bbl vise out of some scrap metal and a 1" allen head bolt....the bolt clamps the bbl between two pieces of oak and I have NEVER had slippage.....done many FALs, Garands, and carbines, plus a few Rems...7, 700, 788...even a few old savage shotgun bbls that were threaded into the receiver like a rifle.... lever guns are tough due to odd shape of receiver, but I believe Garands are the worst to deal with.... did one a while back that had teeth marks from a pipe wrench...two tugs and it was out....guy gave me an extra $10 for "saving his life"...funny, he never came back to get a new bbl installed.... __________________ go shoot something

February 27, 2003, 22:55	#22
G1user Registered FALaholic #: 6546 Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 1,063	I made the one as shown on the gunthings site. Used 1/2 inch plate instead of 9/16ths inch tho--couldn't find any. I went snooping at the local scrap heap, and in about 20 minutes located the prescribed stock in three foot sections, painted almost brand new even. Guy who ownes the scrap heap gave it to me free. Cut the stock to the dimensions with circular saw, and drilled holes. New number 8 nuts and bolts, washers cost a few bucks from the hardware store. Lead was free at the range; melted it in an old pot over the coleman; poured it all in the mold in one long pour. Heavy, and it works great.

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