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Old November 13, 2002, 23:13   #1
W.E.G.
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WECSOG chamber polishing tool

Problem to be solved:
jbaterts DSA chamber "heavy" barrel is still too tight and/or too rough

Ingredients:
one spent shell casing
one bolt (size unknown)
two nuts (fit the bolt)
one shplop of JB bore paste

Method:
Dremel neck off of shell casing
Drill out primer pocket to accomodate bolt
Cinch-down the bolt with the nuts
Use shaft of bolt as spud to connect to Jacobs chuck on drill motor
Splup the shplop of JB paste on the shell casing
Insert casing into chamber
Give it a spin!
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Old November 13, 2002, 23:14   #2
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the ingredients
Attached Images
File Type: jpg reamer1.jpg (17.1 KB, 963 views)
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Old November 13, 2002, 23:16   #3
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the method
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File Type: jpg reamer2.jpg (16.2 KB, 864 views)
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Old November 14, 2002, 00:35   #4
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wow gary why the long way?
i punched out the primer, used a long deck screw (threaded into the hole of course) a little jb weld to secure it. cut off the head placed into flexible shaft of (the only all purpose tool in the world, bowing down to gary himself) the DREMEL , a little polishing compound and wala.....
of course even cheaper and less time consuming is a bore/chamber brush from a m-1a. clip off end insert into dremel and off you go.
i have also used the ar15 bruch in the ar's chamber to get the same results.

and nothing disrespectfull towards the master himself. just another option....
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Old November 14, 2002, 09:16   #5
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Gary, I can loan you my "Bisley" .308 reamer. Now that you have the barel off it would be a cinch. Just a few turns would open up the body diameter of the chamber so it will feed right.
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Old November 14, 2002, 09:22   #6
Jeffrey K Hampshire
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Ancient Chinese secret

This is the method I have used for about 20 years.

This works well for installed barrels as well as uninstalled barrels.

Get a USGI .30 cal. cleaning rod and patch tip. Drill primer pocket of case just large enough for threaded shaft of tip to go through. Insert into hole and thread rod on from other side, one section can be used coming out the back for uninstalled barrel and chuck in drill, for installed barrel screw rod in from mouth of case and install enough sections to extend out the muzzle enough to chuck in drill.

Coat case with fine valve grinding compound, JB paste, etc. and push from breech end or pull from muzzle end. Go slow and clean thoroughly (NOTE* set rotation of drill so that it does not unscrew the rod sections), this method works great for semi-autos that have rough chambers and extraction problems or rough chambers like the Century Mas 49/56 conversions.
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Old November 14, 2002, 09:24   #7
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I thought it was pretty cool.

Thanks again Gary.
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Old November 14, 2002, 11:23   #8
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Gary,
I love your show-n-tells. I've got a G1 barrel that has some light rust or some crap, I think from cutting the old receiver too close to the chamber. I've tried using a chamber brush to my drill coated with CLP. This helps, but the rough surfacre and/or rust still exists.

I'm gonna try this.

Thanks.
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Old November 14, 2002, 11:34   #9
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Gary,

I can't help but notice your hands look awful soft it the last few pics.... Ya been slackin’ lately?
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Old November 14, 2002, 15:09   #10
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Hey! That's my left hand.

Its the right one that has all the callouses!
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Old November 14, 2002, 18:28   #11
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Aw, dammit. I thought Gary's post title said "WESCOG Chamber FLUTING Tool".
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Old November 14, 2002, 20:14   #12
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"Shplop" is the Wecsog slang for Schmear.

Schmear is actually in the dictionary.

I looked up Gullible,.. but there is NO such word in the English language,..Check your Funk and Wagnalls..
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Old November 15, 2002, 11:19   #13
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VOID!
That's what your warranty is on that DSA.
You unscrewed that barrel, rubbed it raw with bore cheese, and now you're going to have to live with the consequences.
Might as well take the dremel and grind flat the DSA, and then electric pencil on there JBGJ, or maybe, GJJB, yeah, that's the ticket, sounds better, too.
There wasn't no way to pronounce DSA.
But, GJJB, that sounds like; Geejabuh.
What the hell izzat?
It's a Geejabuh Effayelle.
I dunno, do a focus group.
Let us know if it works, if not then I'll send you the diamond polishing paste that I found at an undisclosed location.
Very hush hush. I said hush.
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Old November 15, 2002, 12:20   #14
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If you think we "voided" the warranty on the barrel, you shoulda seen when JB (not the bore paste) showed up at WECSOG last year with this really cherry DSA factory rifle and this ponderously fat barrel he wanted me to use to "replace" the factory barrel.

Now, THERE is a man of my own heart. After disclosing my complete lack of any credentials (other than the fact that I own a vise and a receiver wrench), we commenced to unscrew the factory barrel. I about shit when that factory barrel came loose with the biggest, and most-sudden "POP!!!" you ever heard. OK, so the factory barrel came off OK.

We screwed that big ol' fat barrel onto the DSA receiver. Natcherly, the headspace was wrong. So we pounded the living hell out of the locking shoulder to try to remove it. Visualize this. I have a hunk of wood I found under the sink that I use as my "whuppin block." I laid JB's DSA congolmeration on the wood block on the floor of WECSOG. I'm trying to hold a brass punch in place over the locking shouder, and hold the congomeration in place, while whoopin' the bejeezus out of it with a big rusty claw hammer. That sucker wouldn't budge! Amazingly, I didn't mangle his receiver. We finally decided to use a 1/4" bolt as a driver while we smooshed the whole thing in the Wilton vise. The spirit of Chuck Jones must have been looking after us, 'cause we didn't smoosh the receiver out of spec (''least not near as I could tell).

IIRC, I fished one of my used locking shoulders out of the locking shoulder stash. I can't remember exactly. But, I think we hammered on it some more on the "whoopin' block" and might have used the vise to get the "new" locking shoulder installed.

Seemed to headspace OK!

Problem was, we discovered (after it was assembled) that the chamber was tight as the proverbial high school...well, you know. JB decided to try it anyway. He had malfunctions (failure to go into battery?). So he sent it back to DSA. I think they opened the chamber up some. JB said it was "better," but still not 100%. So, he put me up to WECSOG'n on it some more.

Yeah, the warranty is probably pretty void. Sure was fun though!

JB get that thing to the range!
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Old November 15, 2002, 12:49   #15
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Yeah, who gives a kak about a warranty.
WECSOG don't got no warranty.
WECSOG don't even allow no disclaimer, expressed or implied.
Obviously when one attempts to get satisfaction under warranty, all you get is work done under warranty. It don't never have to work. It just has to get worked on.
At least at WECSOG, it will work, or it will be destroyed.
Funny how compliant the parts get when faced with that.
So, an encouraging attaboys to both of you for doing what must be done, by any means neccessary, even if defies convention.
That's what WECSOG is all about.
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Old November 15, 2002, 13:51   #16
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Gary, I think that's a great idea! I may need to work on a couple myself. Brass being softer than chrome makes that the .308 fix!

Thanks.
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Old November 16, 2002, 01:25   #17
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Tomorrow Jeter...I'm headed to the NRA...wanna go?
Unless you have a better range in mind.

Oh about last year...You forgot to mention that we kept on bending your brass punches trying to get out the locking shoulder, and we also opened up the gas port as a fix before I sent it to DSA.
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Old November 16, 2002, 18:32   #18
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Range trip was pretty successful.

Chamber is definitely no longer a problem. But, the cartridges do seem to be dragging against the underside of the receiver rails (deep scratches). A few incidents of failure to go fully into battery. Probably could stand to dress the edges of the rails with some fine sandpaper. We also compared the gusto of my rifle's recoil spring to JB's. Mine seemed to have a little more oomph. JB could probably could stand to replace the large recoil spring too.

I'd replace the spring first. Then dress the rails with nothing coarser than 400-grit if the spring-repacement doesn't bring everythin up to 100% function.
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Old November 16, 2002, 19:42   #19
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Jeter, I know I don't have as much WESCOG'in 'sperience as you, but do yourself a favor and try a steel 1/4" punch on those locking shoulders instead of the brass. Brass ain't no good for that job, you just bend it all to shit. My last locking shoulder install involved a ball peen hammer, the steel punch, and a 45lb. dumbell as a anvil. That's the other thing--resting on a wood block is no good either because it absorbs all the force. Gotta have receiver on old towel, resting on hard surface so the force is directed right where it has to go.

Oh, and it helps to make sure your downstairs neighbors aren't home when you commence pounding. Funny how steel walloping steel really echoes through the walls and raises suspicions, especially in these "Motherland Security" Orwellian times.
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Old February 21, 2003, 23:42   #20
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I just made a chamber polishing contraption based on Jeffery K's description and Gary's brass casing pic. It took about 5 minutes. I'm off to Autozone for some valve grinding compound in the morning. Last week I reamed my DSA short barrel out to .118 and polished the chamber with a little scotchbrite. Still no-go with both .308 and 7.62x51. .308 mics a little smaller from the case shoulder through the base than 7.62x51. I'll try the chamber first and then open the gas to .120 if that doesn't help.


Jim

Last edited by omar; February 22, 2003 at 10:28.
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Old February 22, 2003, 11:54   #21
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Smile




Gary, your Mr. WECSOG around her ya know.

Keep up the great WECSOG tradition..
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