Muzzle Device - WTN How tight to Install?

shootist87122 · September 28, 2002, 13:36

The evil flash hider came off the Dan's Grade 2 without much fuss and no Dremil work!

(Actually it "finally" worked when I remembered it was left hand thread.

)

The new fake short muzzle device from Gunthings screws right on, but here's the question:

How tight should I tork it before making it permanent? Accuracy is my consideration, much more than getting it indexed just right.

It indexes just right at barley snug, BTW.

FWIW the method of removal: Barrel flats in vise and end of barrel supported on 2X6 across smaller vise. Heated evil part with Bernz-O-Matic torch and used A/R combo tool with half-inch ratchet for breaker bar. Guessing about 80-100 lbs to break loose. The old part also had various applications of Krol Penetrating Oil, Breakfree, and Rem-Oil over the prior week.

gunsmith_tony · September 28, 2002, 13:52

If you plan to silver solder it in place, it really doesn't matter how tight it's screwed on the barrel. If you do ot right...it'll never move.
Simply torqing it onto the barrel does not constitute a "permanant installation".
It must be either silver soldered (hi-temp), blind-pinned, or welded. Take your pick.

shootist87122 · September 28, 2002, 14:30

Thanks Tony. I was thinking of using Red Loctite, then getting it blind pinned before sending it in for a Park finish.

A question on parkerizing: Since this is an Imbel, it's got the black paint finish. Is it better to get it blasted and parked before the muzzle device is made permanent, or does it matter?

Joe

gunsmith_tony · September 28, 2002, 14:38

Well, for cosmetec reasons, it's generally best to complete all the work you plan to do, or have done before you send it off to the park tank.

**W.E.G.** · September 28, 2002, 17:03

Silver solder method is much better than blind pin.

Blind pin method ends up with a loose fit way too often.

gunsmith_tony · September 28, 2002, 17:29

You can use whatever compliant method you wish, but I agree with Gary. Hi-temp silver solder...the way to go.

shootist87122 · September 28, 2002, 21:27

OK - silver solder it is. Thanks for the advice.

gunsmith_tony · September 28, 2002, 22:17

Good man. I like it when you do it right.

September 28, 2002, 13:36	#1
shootist87122 Registered FALaholic #: 7202 Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NM Posts: 5,127	Muzzle Device - WTN How tight to Install? The evil flash hider came off the Dan's Grade 2 without much fuss and no Dremil work! (Actually it "finally" worked when I remembered it was left hand thread. ) The new fake short muzzle device from Gunthings screws right on, but here's the question: How tight should I tork it before making it permanent? Accuracy is my consideration, much more than getting it indexed just right. It indexes just right at barley snug, BTW. FWIW the method of removal: Barrel flats in vise and end of barrel supported on 2X6 across smaller vise. Heated evil part with Bernz-O-Matic torch and used A/R combo tool with half-inch ratchet for breaker bar. Guessing about 80-100 lbs to break loose. The old part also had various applications of Krol Penetrating Oil, Breakfree, and Rem-Oil over the prior week. __________________ "So in the Libyan Fable it is told, That once an eagle, stricken with a dart, said, when he saw the fashion of the shaft, it is by our own feathers, not others hands, are we now smitten." -Aeschylus

September 28, 2002, 17:03	#5
W.E.G. Administrator Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 1211 Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Virginia Posts: 31,109	Silver solder method is much better than blind pin. Blind pin method ends up with a loose fit way too often. __________________ . . . Ask me about the Mason-Dixon FAL Collectors Association.

September 28, 2002, 21:27	#7
shootist87122 Registered FALaholic #: 7202 Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NM Posts: 5,127	OK - silver solder it is. Thanks for the advice. __________________ "So in the Libyan Fable it is told, That once an eagle, stricken with a dart, said, when he saw the fashion of the shaft, it is by our own feathers, not others hands, are we now smitten." -Aeschylus

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September 28, 2002, 13:52	#2
gunsmith_tony Registered FALaholic #: 6564 Join Date: May 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 2,521	If you plan to silver solder it in place, it really doesn't matter how tight it's screwed on the barrel. If you do ot right...it'll never move. Simply torqing it onto the barrel does not constitute a "permanant installation". It must be either silver soldered (hi-temp), blind-pinned, or welded. Take your pick.

September 28, 2002, 14:30	#3
shootist87122 Registered FALaholic #: 7202 Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NM Posts: 5,127	Thanks Tony. I was thinking of using Red Loctite, then getting it blind pinned before sending it in for a Park finish. A question on parkerizing: Since this is an Imbel, it's got the black paint finish. Is it better to get it blasted and parked before the muzzle device is made permanent, or does it matter? Joe

September 28, 2002, 14:38	#4
gunsmith_tony Registered FALaholic #: 6564 Join Date: May 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 2,521	Well, for cosmetec reasons, it's generally best to complete all the work you plan to do, or have done before you send it off to the park tank.

September 28, 2002, 17:29	#6
gunsmith_tony Registered FALaholic #: 6564 Join Date: May 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 2,521	You can use whatever compliant method you wish, but I agree with Gary. Hi-temp silver solder...the way to go.

September 28, 2002, 22:17	#8
gunsmith_tony Registered FALaholic #: 6564 Join Date: May 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 2,521	Good man. I like it when you do it right.