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#1 |
Registered
FALaholic #: 79957 Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Interest in FALs especially FALO and L1A1 (this was the first rifle I ever slept with, and I shall always remember her, Clarissa, wherever the British government sold her...)
Posts: 9
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The opposite question?
Hi All
This is the opposite question, how to make a full auto non full auto? We have a rather beautiful ex Luxembourg FN FALO in all her working glory, problem is that shooting full auto here for the most part is somewhat frowned upon. I would like a way to make it so that this cannot happen by accident, but is easy to change back should the opportunity to let her really sing arise? The easiest solution that I can see would be to fit an L1A1 fire selector switch, does anyone know if this will fit a metric FAL? Does anyone have another solution equally easily implemented? Thanks in advance Bob Supporting a friend, please check this website out, run by a gentleman who knows L1A1's, Lee Enfields, Brownings, and Webleys inside out! Ships worlwide. https://www.ds-solutions.co.uk/ |
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#2 |
Registered
FALaholic #: 45299 Join Date: May 2009
Location: California
Posts: 1,461
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There's the semi-auto only selector with the beak that an be used (preventing it from being rotated into the auto position), and I believe also a semi-auto only trigger plunger which prevents the trigger from being pulled back enough to permit full auto fire even with the selector in the auto position. This, plus the removal of the safety sear and spring, were what was done initially to make FALs semi-auto, such as with the G Series imported to the U.S., although if the above two things are done I don't think that the safety sear needs to go (ideally, it should remain in the gun, as it serves a useful function even in semi-auto). With the above, nothing permanent is done. Parts are swapped, and that's it.
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#3 | |
Registered
FALaholic #: 79957 Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Interest in FALs especially FALO and L1A1 (this was the first rifle I ever slept with, and I shall always remember her, Clarissa, wherever the British government sold her...)
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Does anyone know where I might find one of these, preferably from someone who is willing to post to Switzerland? Thanks Bob |
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#4 |
Old Salt
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #: 18465 Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maine
Posts: 9,370
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DSA has them, part # USO76B according to my older catalog. I have used this Selector and had no problem with it, but I seem to remember Gunplumber saying he had to modify some to work properly.
I couldn't find any info about DSA's International shipping policy.
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Lord, keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth. |
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#5 |
Military Observer
Gold Contributor
FALaholic #: 31134 Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Army of Occupation of Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,919
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You can do this yourself with the existing selector.
The FAL Selector has 3 positions: 1) The so-called "safe" [S] position of the selector where the tail end of the trigger directly contacts the selector shaft. In this location of the shaft there is NO clearance notch, so the trigger cannot depress. 2) "Fire" or semiautomatic-fire [R] position is a medium-deep notch which allows the trigger to be depressed just enough to trip the sear off the hammer; however, the sear and trigger are still "close enough" for the rebounding hammer to catch the sear and "reset" in a cocked position again. 3) "Auto" [A] position is a full-depth notch which allows the trigger to depress so much that while it trips the sear off the hammer, it now moves "far enough away" to hold the sear clear of the hammer... now the rebounding hammer is free to slap forward after recoil. The safety sear or secondary sear would catch the hammer and release it as the bolt-carrier comes forward. You can modify the selector using JB Weld or LocTite Weld to make it semiautomatic-only in one of two ways (I recommend option 2): 1) You can fill the "auto" notch in the selector PARTIALLY with JB Weld or LocTite Weld to make it a second "fire" position. 2) You can fill the "auto" notch in the selector FULLY with JB Weld or LocTite Weld to make it a second "safe" position. How to do this: 1) Remove the lower receiver and move the selector to the A position and observe which notch on the selector engages the rear of the trigger. 2) Remove the selector and remove any oils on the shaft by using Acetone. 3) Put JB Weld or LocTite Weld in the Auto notch (the deeper of the two notches in case you forgot which one is Auto). 4) Allow the epoxy to set and then file to shape. You can also file the depth of the notch if you are trying to make it another Fire position. This is a semi-permanent fix, in that should you ever want to remove the epoxy you can just file it out.
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` ` The difference between the possible and the impossible is only in the degree of a man's will. Chinese Proverb “The worst thing about growing old is that other men stop seeing you as dangerous.” Act Of Valor "A wise man gets more use from his enemies than a fool from his friends." Socrates |
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#6 |
Registered
FALaholic #: 54639 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southwest Virginia---Abingdon, Virginia
Posts: 1,818
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What a wonderful problem to be dealing with. We can only dream of such for the most part.
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#7 |
Registered
FALaholic #: 77015 Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 139
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Some sort of humlebrag.
I can only flick mine over to FA and dream. |
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#8 |
Registered
Contributor
FALaholic #: 64403 Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,463
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Why not fill the gap in the grip so the lever cannot rotate to the fun position? Cheap cheap.
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All I'm really asking for here is a knife that will not jam and a unicorn that doesn't need sharpening. Will_Power It's been my experience that all you really need to harvest a deer is a car. They come right through the windshield just fine. 357ross That poop is priceless. MFC |
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#9 |
None
Platinum Contributor
FALaholic #: 73015 Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: No Where
Posts: 8,809
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weld a beak on your current selector
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#10 | |
Minister of Amusement
Gold Contributor
FALaholic #: 13629 Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Not far enough from Philly
Posts: 14,011
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Quote:
I personally would go with 4markks solution, - get a spare selector for the mod, then all that is necessary is to switch out the selectors when going for an FA funday. Easier than swapping PGs.
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"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools" Herbert Spenser “I respect the government only in the sense that I respect any other dangerous predator who views me as food.” “The consolidation of the states into one vast empire, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of ruin which has overwhelmed all that preceded it.” Robert E. Lee |
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#11 |
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
FALaholic #: 9580 Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 8,918
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DSA semi selector here:
https://www.dsarms.com/p-11582-dsa-f...or-switch.aspx $30. Only goes to semi, eliminates confusion for the uneducated. |
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#12 |
Curio & Relic
Silver Contributor
FALaholic #: 19226 Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: brabant/Belgium - collecting
Posts: 2,242
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#13 | |
Minister of Amusement
Gold Contributor
FALaholic #: 13629 Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Not far enough from Philly
Posts: 14,011
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Quote:
__________________
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools" Herbert Spenser “I respect the government only in the sense that I respect any other dangerous predator who views me as food.” “The consolidation of the states into one vast empire, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of ruin which has overwhelmed all that preceded it.” Robert E. Lee |
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#14 | |
Registered
FALaholic #: 79957 Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Interest in FALs especially FALO and L1A1 (this was the first rifle I ever slept with, and I shall always remember her, Clarissa, wherever the British government sold her...)
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Thank you all for your responses, you have confirmed my initial thought that I needed a new selector switch. @Paco, or any other european contributer, do you know of any european suppliers who hold these kinds of parts? Merry Xmas one and all! Bob |
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#15 | |
Curio & Relic
Silver Contributor
FALaholic #: 19226 Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: brabant/Belgium - collecting
Posts: 2,242
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Quote:
hmm, nope, sorry |
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#16 |
Curio & Relic
Silver Contributor
FALaholic #: 19226 Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: brabant/Belgium - collecting
Posts: 2,242
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Message from Bruce Malingue, the author of this book:https://www.unitheque.com/Livre/crep....1-110518.html
Semi-auto lever on Lux FAL is specific, the standard belgian semi lever doesn't fit because "A", "S" & "R" positions are differently located. Please find pics on attachment : - Lux semi-auto lever, which cannot rotate to the "A" position. The letter "A" is not marked on the knob - Israeli full-auto lever (this rifle is a demilitarized one, as full-auto weapons are forbidden here). Location of "A", "S" & "R" are ithe same ![]() ![]() Best regards. Bruce |
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#17 |
Old Salt
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #: 18465 Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maine
Posts: 9,370
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OP, my suggestion would be a spare Pistol Grip modified to block the Selector. A threaded screw with the head cut off after being located in the proper position should do it.
The original Pistol Grip could be installed for Show and Go.
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Lord, keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth. |
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#18 | |
Military Observer
Gold Contributor
FALaholic #: 31134 Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Army of Occupation of Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,919
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Quote:
Options are: 1) An Israeli Semi-Only Selector 2) A Semi-Only Trigger Plunger 3) My suggestion in Post #5 (going to be your fastest)
__________________
` ` The difference between the possible and the impossible is only in the degree of a man's will. Chinese Proverb “The worst thing about growing old is that other men stop seeing you as dangerous.” Act Of Valor "A wise man gets more use from his enemies than a fool from his friends." Socrates |
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#19 |
Curio & Relic
Silver Contributor
FALaholic #: 19226 Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: brabant/Belgium - collecting
Posts: 2,242
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Number3 is perhaps indeed the cheapest way. Add removable stuff in the selector till it can't fire FA
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#20 |
Registered
FALaholic #: 79957 Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Interest in FALs especially FALO and L1A1 (this was the first rifle I ever slept with, and I shall always remember her, Clarissa, wherever the British government sold her...)
Posts: 9
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Hi Paco
Thanks for posting on behalf of Bruce, and please thank Bruce for contributing. I am not sure I fully understand what is being said here, the Israeli FAL is the standard setup? So what I need ideally is a selector switch like the one pictured, is this not common? The positions also seem to be the same as the L1A1, would an L1A1 selector fit? Do you know of any European suppliers of these kinds of parts, my searches are not pulling back much useful? Some pictures of our FALO selector switch Thanks Bob Last edited by swiss_bob; January 01, 2018 at 08:58. |
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#21 |
Military Observer
Gold Contributor
FALaholic #: 31134 Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Army of Occupation of Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,919
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No, the early selector we refer to as the Izzy (or Israeli) selector is not the standard selector. Here is the Izzy:
You have to fill in the FA Cutout with LocTite Weld as indicated here: Or you can get a Semi-Only Izzy Selector: ![]() That one is for sale by a member here, Larry. You could email him through the auction and ask if he'd be willing to ship that part to Switzerland. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/734611108
__________________
` ` The difference between the possible and the impossible is only in the degree of a man's will. Chinese Proverb “The worst thing about growing old is that other men stop seeing you as dangerous.” Act Of Valor "A wise man gets more use from his enemies than a fool from his friends." Socrates |
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