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Old September 06, 2017, 15:02   #1
clodhopper
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Which direction on Generator?

Moved to a rural property this year. The power supply at my old place was very dependable, below ground system, only lost power 2 short times in 17 years. New place has wires on poles and neighbor has said power goes out at least once a winter for a few days.

Longer term plan is a pallet of solar panels and parts. But I will not have that for a year or three. Besides, I will want a backup to a solar system in case it is needed.

I maintain 2 fridges and 2 freezers. Heat, hot water and stove is all propane, but need elec for blower fan on heat. Well has a pump. I have an EU2000 which i have used for years for camping and whatnot but is not sized for the current task. Thinking something along the lines of 8 or 10 kW.

I only have a 500 gal propane tank right now, too small for gen and heat dependence. I am planning on adding another 1000 gal tank this fall to allow me to refuel when prices are low.

The question:

My current preference is a diesel gen set. Easier to store fuel, refuel, etc. Can be moved to neighbors property if need be. However, a standby would run on propane, which makes it more automated, and seem to be cheaper to purchase. If diesel, wait and watch gov auctions for a gamble on a genset or is there a better place to purchase? If a standby, is there a better brand?
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Old September 06, 2017, 16:05   #2
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Another thread as well on this. It all depends on your pocketbook. LPG just seems to be too expensive to run. Living in CO though probably don't need to keep it on all the time during the winter.

Diesel driven though is 2x the price but probably would last forever. Also, can't you buy off road diesel cheaper than the OTR? Once you get above about $10K it seems that you can get some serious KW cheap but, but you probably don't need.

A 10KW gas or propane is cheap and say around $2K. Diesel gen set price goes straight to about $5K. I would prefer diesel, and it's the adage of buy once cry once. Still though how would you rotate the fuel?

If I were you go dual fuel. You already use LPG.
It's a murky dilemma.
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Old September 06, 2017, 17:04   #3
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It's a murky dilemma.
Yep. That's why I am seeking advice. I keep twisting myself up in the analysis.


I already run diesel in pickup, jetta and backhoe. Have a refueling tank on the property. Can also store 55 gal drums in the barn. Fuel rotation is not an issue. Tractor is gas....well for now... that may change in future.

Yes, already using LPG, but that will limit the gen to being tied to the tanks. When you say dual fuel, you mean LPG and gasoline?
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Old September 06, 2017, 17:32   #4
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Yep. That's why I am seeking advice. I keep twisting myself up in the analysis.


I already run diesel in pickup, jetta and backhoe. Have a refueling tank on the property. Can also store 55 gal drums in the barn. Fuel rotation is not an issue. Tractor is gas....well for now... that may change in future.

Yes, already using LPG, but that will limit the gen to being tied to the tanks. When you say dual fuel, you mean LPG and gasoline?
Yes gas and LP. Then with what you have I would go diesel. SHTF you can use your stock to get the transportation running. I'd get red diesel with a 1000 gal tank and pump. I would calculate my max load and increase by 150% for electric motors starting, mount it on a little trailer you can pull behind the tractor and be done with it. Hell I have a wood stove here to keep me from freezing to death in San Antone.
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Last edited by meltblown; September 06, 2017 at 17:37.
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Old September 06, 2017, 17:42   #5
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quickly looking at dual fuel generators.... I don't recognize any of the brands. Champion? Duro-max? Sportsman?
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Old September 06, 2017, 17:47   #6
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Yes gas and LP. Then with what you have I would go diesel. SHTF you can use your stock to get the transportation running. I'd get red diesel with a 1000 gal tank and pump. I would calculate my max load and increase by 150% for electric motors starting, mount it on a little trailer you can pull behind the tractor and be done with it. Hell I have a wood stove here to keep me from freezing to death in San Antone.
OK. Diesel. I like it. I think my tank now is ~500gal, would have to check it. It is on the list of to-dos, upfit and put the tank in service. Yes, I planned on running red. If things get to where I need to fill the truck with red, no one will be checking fuel color anyway.

So, back to one of the first questions. Wait and watch for a .gov auction type used diesel (maybe already on a trailer, maybe on a skid), or is there a somewhat reasonable new purchase option out there?
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Old September 06, 2017, 17:55   #7
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Chinese. As far as not going new it all depends on your wizardry and access to the used market. An Aggreko is one thing. Buying a Kubota or commercial gen set is another
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Last edited by meltblown; September 06, 2017 at 18:03.
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Old September 06, 2017, 18:16   #8
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So, back to one of the first questions. Wait and watch for a .gov auction type used diesel (maybe already on a trailer, maybe on a skid), or is there a somewhat reasonable new purchase option out there?
I worked on a 30kw gen back when I was in the Marines. Seems all the smoke was let out of the wires and I was only one that knew anything about electricity.
Make sure you get a manual for them with a wiring diagram.
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Old September 07, 2017, 10:46   #9
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I have a whole house generator that runs on natural gas, propane or gasoline, just turn the know to fuel of choice. Run off natural gas long as grid is up but have tank of propane buying in event natural gas grid goes down. Have a bigger three phase diesel generat or that will carry three houses for post end of civilization as bodiesel is only fuel can make if can't find fuel. Have a tank of diesel stashed as well. If just want a good whole house generator buy an automatic Generac if have natural gas service but buy a propane kit just in case. If no natural gas pick your best gasoline beast and put a trifuel kit on it.
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Old September 07, 2017, 12:56   #10
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OK. Diesel. I like it. I think my tank now is ~500gal, would have to check it. It is on the list of to-dos, upfit and put the tank in service. Yes, I planned on running red. If things get to where I need to fill the truck with red, no one will be checking fuel color anyway.

So, back to one of the first questions. Wait and watch for a .gov auction type used diesel (maybe already on a trailer, maybe on a skid), or is there a somewhat reasonable new purchase option out there?

a few things to remember with large diesel tanks ........

add stabilizer to your fuel and keep other additives that you will need on hand

this is the brand that I use, http://www.fppf.com my buddy w/ the pig barn turned me on to them when I got my first diesel p/u, he worked for his cousin for many years running heavy equipment, said they only use the FPPF brand because it is what kept them running, also it is carried by my local injection specialist shop

I dump some FPPF SBG FUEL OIL SLUDGE REMOVER and some FPPF Super Fuel Stabilizer in my home heating oil tank every late summer/fall fill up to keep the furnace happy and it keeps my ass warm all season long

I run FPPF Total Power in both my diesel TDI Jettas, my generator and my '88 F250 7.3 IDI and I always have at least 2 quart bottles of Emergency Meltdown just in case I have fuel gelling

remember that diesel fuel/ home heating fuel is settled out not refined, so microbes can and will attack your fuel when left sitting for long periods of time, grow algae and create sludge, refined fuel like gasoline has its own problems too, many more than diesel

with amounts of diesel from 55 gallon drums and up .......

buy or build a fuel polisher, it is a serious investment in your fuel supply


here is a simple way these folks did it themselves

https://theboatgalley.com/diy-fuel-polishing/


if you want to make a good long lasting fuel polishing system get a 4' x 4' x 1/2' or 3/4' plywood, mount a good fuel pump and at least 2 filter housings


this pump is what is on many reefers, it will get fuel up 10 to 30 feet, a little expensive but it is worth the cost, it is not a super high volume pump but they are designed to run for long periods of time (sometimes reefers do not get shut off but once a week to check oil)

http://www.facet-purolator.com/dura-lift-pumps.php

^^^ that pump has a 80 micron built in cleanable filter screen

you want to connect a feed hose/siphon to the pump, then to the first filter housing, it will contain a removable filter cartridge rated to say 60 microns, that feeds into the second filter housing w/ a filter rated to 30 microns then back to dump into the tank

a big tank will need polished at least once every 6 months even w/ the proper additives in the fuel, that much fuel is a big investment and you want to protect it

if you do have a 500 gallon fuel tank (or larger) I would run the system that I described at least for 24 hours, like I said it is not a super high volume pump

below is one guys setup, he is thinking out of the box, if you go and watch the video on the youtube site many other videos like it are available to see


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Old September 07, 2017, 17:25   #11
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Air Force and Army Signal Corp generators usually dirt cheap at auction, perfect service records and low hours. Only replace because of age, not use. We bought a bunch of DC generators from Air Force auction once all with 390 Hemis. I have the trifuel (previous post from new phone dyslexic as small keyboard difficult, have to change to better version) gasoline/natural/propane and big diesel. 1,000 gallon tank of propane but want use for HVAC much as possible and 500 gallons of off-road diesel. While use on road diesel in my trucks never had anyone ever check it. Have 250 gallons of on-road at work. Hopefully if event extends and hive thrives will be able to get the wind generators out of storage building and solar cells for keeping radios and medical devices then only run big generators to top off battery stacks or if have short term high wattage need. Tri-fuel or diesel is a coin toss and why have each.

Also have pair of 2,000 watt generators can run parallel with pairing kit. Generac and Honda both sell pairing kits for their small generators. If on a budget buy one 2,000 watt inverter generator, save up for second then buy pairing kit. Can add trifuel kit and run off propane or gasoline. Lots of options. Anyone with stream on property and does not already have hydroelectric already is daft.
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Old September 07, 2017, 20:02   #12
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Air Force and Army Signal Corp generators
How do I identify the source of the gen sets up for auction? Just based on auction location?
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Old September 07, 2017, 21:08   #13
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http://www.facet-purolator.com/dura-lift-pumps.php

^^^ that pump has a 80 micron built in cleanable filter screen

you want to connect a feed hose/siphon to the pump, then to the first filter housing, it will contain a removable filter cartridge rated to say 60 microns, that feeds into the second filter housing w/ a filter rated to 30 microns then back to dump into the tank

a big tank will need polished at least once every 6 months even w/ the proper additives in the fuel, that much fuel is a big investment and you want to protect it

if you do have a 500 gallon fuel tank (or larger) I would run the system that I described at least for 24 hours, like I said it is not a super high volume pump

below is one guys setup, he is thinking out of the box, if you go and watch the video on the youtube site many other videos like it are available to see


We sell diesel reconditioning. 3 30um filters with no coalescer is BS. He says Racor but talks crap. Yep I work for the same companies shown. You have to remove free water. That's why I told the OP to rotate it in his other stuff instead of playing grab ass.
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Old September 07, 2017, 21:16   #14
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You can run a diesel on home heating oil - much cheaper than road diesel.

I went with a very low time milsurp MEP802. Rated at 5kw, it will happily pull 7.5kw all day long.
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Old September 08, 2017, 00:08   #15
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I would look for one of the used 2-71 Detroit Diesel gensets out there. They are available in 12 and 20 kw; same engine but different alternator. The 12 kw is 6 pole and runs 1200 rpm; pretty sure the 20 kw is 4 pole and runs 1800 rpm. You can pick them up fairly cheap. I got one for $800 several years ago.
One of those will last the rest of your life. Fuel efficient too, especially the 12 kw.
I've heard quite a few stories of 71 series Detroit gensets running continuously for decades, only being shut down once a month or so for maintenance. And unlike a 4 stroke diesel they don't have injection pumps: the primary weakness of most diesels.
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Old September 08, 2017, 11:05   #16
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I would look for one of the used 2-71 Detroit Diesel gensets out there. They are available in 12 and 20 kw; same engine but different alternator. The 12 kw is 6 pole and runs 1200 rpm; pretty sure the 20 kw is 4 pole and runs 1800 rpm. You can pick them up fairly cheap. I got one for $800 several years ago.
One of those will last the rest of your life. Fuel efficient too, especially the 12 kw.
I've heard quite a few stories of 71 series Detroit gensets running continuously for decades, only being shut down once a month or so for maintenance. And unlike a 4 stroke diesel they don't have injection pumps: the primary weakness of most diesels.
Apart from dumb luck, where do you find a 12.5 unit? These appear to be pretty common for nautical uses, so maybe more likely in port cities. Unfortunately, I am about as far from a port as can be. The very few I stumbled across in internet searching were all 20kW, the 12.5 would be better for my needs. I found references to a Tapia company in the Dominican Republic that is a specialty 2-71 supplier, but no website or anything. The Affordable Power website is offline, still in business? Normally I would steer away from something that is so hard to find, but I found reams of 2-71 part suppliers, so I am still open to the idea if one can be found.
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Old September 08, 2017, 11:30   #17
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Apart from dumb luck, where do you find a 12.5 unit? These appear to be pretty common for nautical uses, so maybe more likely in port cities. Unfortunately, I am about as far from a port as can be. The very few I stumbled across in internet searching were all 20kW, the 12.5 would be better for my needs. I found references to a Tapia company in the Dominican Republic that is a specialty 2-71 supplier, but no website or anything. The Affordable Power website is offline, still in business? Normally I would steer away from something that is so hard to find, but I found reams of 2-71 part suppliers, so I am still open to the idea if one can be found.
I agree, the 12.5 would be best for your needs. I would contact Emerson in Pocatello, ID. http://emerson2-71gm.com/index.html They supplied the gensets for the railroads, and when the RR phased them out in favor of 4 stroke units Emerson supplied the new gensets and got the 2-71 units back. I got mine from a smaller seller in Pocatello, who got them from Emerson.
As you can imagine, shipping is expensive. The seller gave me the name of a local shipping broker who found a slot on a truck coming my way, which saved probably half of the cost but I had to wait about 3 months for that slot. Since you are in CO, you might just want to pick it up in person. They weigh somewhere in the neighborhood of 2K lbs, so it doesn't take much of a trailer to haul one.
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Old September 08, 2017, 12:12   #18
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Thanks for the heads up Wecsogery. Those look like some serious machines.
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Old September 08, 2017, 16:16   #19
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We sell diesel reconditioning. 3 30um filters with no coalescer is BS. He says Racor but talks crap. Yep I work for the same companies shown. You have to remove free water. That's why I told the OP to rotate it in his other stuff instead of playing grab ass.
you're right, my bad ..... water separation must be first
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Old September 08, 2017, 19:06   #20
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How do I identify the source of the gen sets up for auction? Just based on auction location?
Show up for inspection period and read inspection log. It will say which service used it on cover. Also Army generators have a tracking code painted on back of trailer are green or beige and Air Force are usually grey. These are not fast and hard rules but avoid Navy due to likelyhood of salt water exposure. Often action will be on and AFB or Army Base. Our local Army Reserve unit has an auction about every decade and their stuff just sits under a shed except for a couple weeks of training on occasion and service work. My big diesel generator is from Army Signal Corps and given to me through MARS due to capability of my station. Came with two portable crank up towers and gang of antennas. MARS was good training and met a lot of serious hams.
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Old September 12, 2017, 16:27   #21
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What's Up With California

Spent all of last night and good portion of today on the 10,000 watt/12,500 watt surge Generac. Odd watching people paying $5 for two pound bags of ice and $12 for five pound bags at convienence stores when went today and topped off all trucks with fuel again. (Decided to buy a little more pump gas before start into the big tanks) Wife realizing it's fall and we can get hit with ice storms as early as Halloween but from Thanksgiving through March anything can hit us and for extended periods of time has given me the nod to drop the trigger on a bigger and newer generator. Been looking and specifications and models and keep seeing:

Quote:
Unit not for use or sale in California, CARB compliant units available
What is up with the land of fruits, nuts and neutered rifles and generators. Would think in the land of earthquakes, mud slides, brown outs, black outs, riots and general instability with Ma Nature plus entire cities losing their minds over an arrest of what looks like a criminal to me would want their people,to at least have access to decent generators. I looked it up and basically discovered California has a board that determines the amount of pollutants a small engine from weed eater to wood chipper can emit. I am sorry but I just don't see where my non CARB compliant generator is going to affect the world one bit. Same with most small engines, it's same con as ethanol fuel and hybrid cars. The equation is so complicated from poisonous batteries to less durable equipment needing replacement sooner am glad that Nobama didn't get CARB regulations passed nationwide before I make what may be my last generator purchase. I have eight generators and all are in good working order and don't see any black smoke billowing from my equipment or would be at the shop being serviced. I don't want to poison the planet but realize some regulations can have opposite effect of what were intended to do. I am going to be sure and buy a generator that is NOT CARB compliant so no issues with aftermarket upgrades and modifications become a problem. Could see whatever CARB compliance is causing issues with my tri-fuel kits and such. I am relatively sure when put my generators on natural gas or bottled propane they burn nice and clean. Can tell that just looking at oil from oil changes. This getting government in every aspect of everything is plain crazy. If Feds won't monkey it up leave it to California to force manufacturers to make a specific unit for their state and drive prices up so their residents have bigger burden to carry. This is plain loopy.
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Old September 12, 2017, 18:23   #22
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Huey, the left coast conned the EPA into keeping lots of good diesels from being imported and preventing manufacturing them here in the US, same for gasoline engines too

you can no longer buy a new Lister clone cold start diesel, there are original listers still running that went into service more than 70 years ago, many run every day and nothing but regular servicing is done to them

but you can purchase parts kits to assemble your own lister clone
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Old September 13, 2017, 15:18   #23
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A point I try to make to liberal relatives that think my truck is ruining the environment. My daily driver is a 1993 Dodge Dakota with over 300,000 miles and even being a 4x4 still gets 16 mpg. In same time frame one of our PhD cousins has gone through five hybrids. Asked her how much energy it took to mine the materials from iron ore for metal panels, lithium for batteries to final assembly and then disposal of the previous four. She says their all "recycled" at end of lifespan and has never heard of children in Africa dying looking for and mining lithium and other rare minerals for the batteries in her disposable cars. Guarantee when figure up total impact on the planet to make, service and drive one small pickup, service it well and drive it for 25 years next year is 10% of the mess made mining, refining, manufacturing and "recycling" five hybrids.

I have a 1/2 ton 4x4 with a 360 and towing package that drive once a month to keep it from freezing up from sitting then use days have job thats too big for my little truck. Our nice truck is a 2001 3/4 ton 4x4 with Cummins diesel that has a million mile service life and most people that ride in it think its new unless know the difference between year models and body styles of Dodge trucks. Wife used it for a grocery getter and I use for batteries on occasion. Thinking about painting the 1993 as paint is looking bad but otherwise all we do is service our trucks well, put tires and brakes on them and drive them forever. Bet our heir will still be driving the diesel when wife and I are both in our graves. That is conservation of resources.

I am looking first at durability of design as shopping another generator then price. The big diesel would do the job without buying another but it pukes black smoke (that means it is working properly), is loud and will run three or four houses. No sense in running it unless need to power up the neighbors or run a big welder. Going to add the appropriate size generator to do what we need and last past our lifespan with proper service. I don't live in a plastic and Styrofoam disposable world. Have several cousins and in-laws who will probably do more damage to planet with their daily disposable Starbucks cup than my trucks will do. On that note, been using the same stainless travel cup and Thermos for home brewed coffee in the same coffee pot for 20 years. Wonder how many people actually repair a $20 electric coffee maker when it breaks? We are still using the same microwave we had when moved to the "new" house 25 years ago. Have had to replace two limit switches in door in that time and both of those came out of microwave ovens others were throwing away and I scavenged all the Magnatron tubes, power supplies, limit switches and capacitors. Nine out of ten "broken" microwave ovens given to me need a $3 limit switch in door to get it working. Damn hippie peace freaks, can't fix anything. Throw it away, buy a new one, drive a hybrid and think they are saving the planet while sipping their Starbucks.
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Old October 10, 2017, 14:00   #24
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Do you have a tractor? A PTO driven generator could be an option. for occasional use, like 2-3 consecutive days per year, a gasoline powered generator will do fine. i stabilize the gas when i am done with it. and i keep a dedicated can of starter fluid with it, just in case. mine is 10 years old and starts on the 3rd pull. It's a big briggs&stratton. 8500 surge / 5500 continuous watts. this was enough to drive my well pump, run refrigerator, and power the boiler pump for the radiators.
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Old October 10, 2017, 18:55   #25
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Moved to a rural property this year. The power supply at my old place was very dependable, below ground system, only lost power 2 short times in 17 years. New place has wires on poles and neighbor has said power goes out at least once a winter for a few days.

Longer term plan is a pallet of solar panels and parts. But I will not have that for a year or three. Besides, I will want a backup to a solar system in case it is needed.

I maintain 2 fridges and 2 freezers. Heat, hot water and stove is all propane, but need elec for blower fan on heat. Well has a pump. I have an EU2000 which i have used for years for camping and whatnot but is not sized for the current task. Thinking something along the lines of 8 or 10 kW.

I only have a 500 gal propane tank right now, too small for gen and heat dependence. I am planning on adding another 1000 gal tank this fall to allow me to refuel when prices are low.

The question:

My current preference is a diesel gen set. Easier to store fuel, refuel, etc. Can be moved to neighbors property if need be. However, a standby would run on propane, which makes it more automated, and seem to be cheaper to purchase. If diesel, wait and watch gov auctions for a gamble on a genset or is there a better place to purchase? If a standby, is there a better brand?
I have a Kohler 45kw propane standby for my house.Avoid Generac .Read some generac forums and decide for yourself.Generac=Junk and if you decide on a standby unit DO NOT get an aircooled unit. Most if not all AC units run at 3600 rpm while liquid cooled run at 1800 rpm. last much longer.

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Old October 11, 2017, 10:17   #26
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I don't see a 45kW Kohler. There is a 38 and a 48. Looks like the smallest model that is water cooled is 20kW. That one uses 84 cuft/hr of LP at 50% load. The 12kW (yeah, air cooled) uses 60. At 84 cuft/hr, a 1000 gal propane tank will give you about 18 days of power (if I did my math correctly). Not bad for a backup system for a few days use. Not real good for long term power use when I can't transport the fuel myself.
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Old October 11, 2017, 11:35   #27
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I bought the Kohler 45kw back in 2001. They make a 48kw now
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Old October 11, 2017, 14:11   #28
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My dos centavos on generators is buy as little as you can get by with. I have been through a couple of hurricanes now with just the little Honda EU2000 and we did fine. Now heat was not an issue down here in FL in the late summer or early fall. I do have a 10KW, 220V capable generator, but have never needed/used it as a generator. It is a Lincoln welding machine that happens to have 10KW AC capability. In fact, I bought it as a lightly used return from Home Depot after a hurricane several years ago. Paid $1800 for it with 8 hours on it. It is my idea of a "backup" generator, something I can actually use besides if power goes out. That is one of the reasons I have the little Honda as we primarily use it for camping. Having it for storm use is a bonus! In something diesel I think there are some pretty sexy big Miller welders that would be mighty special to have around the homestead.
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Old October 11, 2017, 15:14   #29
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You can run a diesel on home heating oil - much cheaper than road diesel.

I went with a very low time milsurp MEP802. Rated at 5kw, it will happily pull 7.5kw all day long.
Does heating oil contain similar amounts of sulfur as diesel? My understanding is sulfur affords some lubricating properties to diesel engines,and the lack of it in kerosene is why its a no-no in diesel engines.
On road diesel supposedly has much less sulfur than off-road diesel.
Me,I run a Honda gasoline genny with a LP adapter,between the filter housing and carb. Works pretty good.
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Old October 12, 2017, 15:36   #30
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(Trimmed) I do have a 10KW, 220V capable generator, but have never needed/used it as a generator. It is a Lincoln welding machine that happens to have 10KW AC capability. In fact, I bought it as a lightly used return from Home Depot after a hurricane several years ago. It is my idea of a "backup" generator, something I can actually use besides if power goes out. That is one of the reasons I have the little Honda as we primarily use it for camping. Having it for storm use is a bonus! In something diesel I think there are some pretty sexy big Miller welders that would be mighty special to have around the homestead.
Have an 8,000 watt continuous, 11,000 watt peak Miller welder/generator on my service truck. I can use it as a generator but don't really count on it as part of my generator farm. Post SHTF lots of stuff is going to break and have to be fixed. Especially farming equipment. Not only is my Miller welder capable of AC/DC welding of up to 3/4" plate, in one of the tool boxes is a TIG controller that mates with it and just requires a few connections to be changed and the gas bottle hooked up then can weld aluminum, stainless and other TIG process metals plus can turn it down as low as 10 amps for thin aluminum sheets, etc. On my top two list of what to do if SHTF is get me and that 28,000 lb 6x6 service truck to the Ponderosa.
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Old October 12, 2017, 19:37   #31
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Does heating oil contain similar amounts of sulfur as diesel? My understanding is sulfur affords some lubricating properties to diesel engines,and the lack of it in kerosene is why its a no-no in diesel engines.
On road diesel supposedly has much less sulfur than off-road diesel.
Me,I run a Honda gasoline genny with a LP adapter,between the filter housing and carb. Works pretty good.
The off road Diesel we have now is also ultra low sulphur, merely dyed red to show road tax exempt status. There are plenty of newer off road diesels that require ULSD fuel and DEF now.
I'm not sure, but IIRC home heating fuel (stove oil) was actually number one diesel fuel, a bit heavier than kerosene, with better pump lubrication properties. I know it runs Pratt and Whitney turbines just fine, but that's another story...
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Old October 12, 2017, 19:56   #32
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Have an 8,000 watt continuous, 11,000 watt peak Miller welder/generator on my service truck. I can use it as a generator but don't really count on it as part of my generator farm. Post SHTF lots of stuff is going to break and have to be fixed. Especially farming equipment. Not only is my Miller welder capable of AC/DC welding of up to 3/4" plate, in one of the tool boxes is a TIG controller that mates with it and just requires a few connections to be changed and the gas bottle hooked up then can weld aluminum, stainless and other TIG process metals plus can turn it down as low as 10 amps for thin aluminum sheets, etc. On my top two list of what to do if SHTF is get me and that 28,000 lb 6x6 service truck to the Ponderosa.
Must be a Trailblazer 302? that's what I run on my trucks. Very versatile machines.
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Old October 15, 2017, 06:15   #33
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It's the older model that the Trailblazer replaced. Has electric start, gas bottle mounted and set up for stick welding with 50 foot and 100 foot leads. Has enough amperage to push through 100 feet and still fully bond 1/2" mild steel. TIG head is separate and mount as needed because it doesn't need to be in weather on back of truck and use seldom. Takes 20 minutes to swap it over to TIG but beats no TIG on sites with aluminum or other that needs stuck together. If SHTF can see it becoming big part of improving the hives infrastructure and keeping it all repaired. Have to go inside my machine to tap 240 as Miller was afraid if put a 240 outlet then some moron would try to tap it for 240 while welding. Has a two gang 120 volt outlet that will hold without sagging when strike an arc.
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Old October 23, 2017, 02:18   #34
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I never use solar generator before but my friend got one. She said it is very useful and convenient. But I got a diesel generator which also can supply enough electric for me.
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Old October 27, 2017, 19:22   #35
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Found a guy with a grid tie inverter for solar or alternate DC power input. Went to see it and is a pure sine wave 600 watt rated unit with 850 watt peak. Works on 20 to 56 volt DC input and outputs 80 to 140 volts AC at 45 or 65 Hz with 0.3% total harmonic distortion. Owner purchased to use in a camper to run AC items off batteries and didn't realize it was designeD for solar panels, wind generators or similar to input AC direct to electrical panel. $100 and it came home with me after a quick test using a DC electric motor tuned by a bicycle for my input current and small panel with metal halide bulb as AC output device. Had logging meters on each side with meter on output side a scope meter to watch AC sine wave and it runs perfectly.

Guy asked if had any need for a like new gasoline generator had purchased during power outage following recent storm. Generac 8000 watt continuous with 10,000 watt peak and 14 hours on hour meter. Price is stupid cheap compared to new but didn't have time yesterday to do get a LEO out to do a serial number check which he was not opposed to so we are meeting Monday to get a cop out to do a VIN Check before hand over cash as hate buying something without verifying it's clean. Apparently owner thought he could use it with camper after the power outage and twice took camping to get noise complaints so now getting rid of it to first person with cash. Didn't mention to him ice storm season is potentially just two months away.

Not as big as what have been looking for but 500 watts higher output and 20 years newer than what have. Can sit it in generator shack and use current generator as trade bait for bigger unit am looking for. It's not uncommon to find people, especially contractors or handyman that bought a 10,000 to 12,500 watt portable to discover takes three big men and two good dogs to move it and looking for easier to move machine. My 7,500 watt machine is right on edge of relatively easy for two men and hard but possible for one man to move. Either way can't help but feel the slightly higher rated and two decade newer Generac will get us through winter if the old 7,500 watt got us through last winter and the recent hurricane outage. Been considering putting the new apartment in basement on separate panel and could hook the 7,500 watt up to that space and rest of house on the "like new" 8,000. Could even set up entire basement on second panel and main floor on existing panel. Make it easy to separate basement and main floor and run each off separate generators or still do both with a single if wanted.
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Old October 28, 2017, 04:46   #36
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I know it runs Pratt and Whitney turbines just fine, but that's another story...
And Jet-A + some oil (collected from quarts and gallon bottles discarded after oil changes) run just find on old Mercedes and Volvo car engines.
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Old October 28, 2017, 11:38   #37
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The off road Diesel we have now is also ultra low sulphur, merely dyed red to show road tax exempt status. There are plenty of newer off road diesels that require ULSD fuel and DEF now.
I'm not sure, but IIRC home heating fuel (stove oil) was actually number one diesel fuel, a bit heavier than kerosene, with better pump lubrication properties. I know it runs Pratt and Whitney turbines just fine, but that's another story...
Have two diesels, one is a 2001 Cummins 5.9L HO Turbo at 505 ft/lbs of torque and other is a Caterpillar 3126 Turbo. The 5.9 Cummins is all stock and the 3126 have advanced the timing and increased the fuel pressure on the rail just enough to get about 325 horsepower as 3116's and 3126's have a tendency to grenade if turn above 350 to 370 horsepower. Since am one or two short service calls from rolling 300,000 miles on the Caterpillar am pretty sure have not hurt it. The Cummins is less than 100 miles from a quarter million and had it serviced this week. Our mechanic offered to buy the truck for at least the fifth time. It runs smooth as when new, interior is like new and paint is still good.

Most important key to both trucks is were designed for a specific amount of sulphur in fuel and actually need more than was allowed in fuel when new in '97 and '01. From day one our mechanic has had us put fuel additive in every time we pump fuel along with fuel for the diesel generator. When Nobama regulated us to Ultra Low Sulfur fuel we went from an off the shelf additive to a homebrew additive designed by our mechanic. Whenever mash in the throttle hard still get the appropriate small puff of black smoke roll out the tail pipe of both. Is it better for the ecology for us to use additives or replace entire truck twice as often. Our mechanic experimented for months with different additive blends and this is what we use, a 1/3 mixture of Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost (white bottle not grey), 1/3 Gunk M7112 Diesel Fuel Sulfur Substitute*and 1/3 Marvel Mystery Oil.

When adopeted son worked for Cummins he spent two years in light and medium truck engine fuel systems design trying to keep up with government changes in fuel and emissions stamdards. He mixed up some of our mechanics brew (mix one ounce per gallon when add fuel) and tested at Cummins facility with their state of art equipment. Said while they can't recommend it as emissions were out of government specs, he and all of the other guys in the light/medium truck plant that drove Dodge Cummins personally started using the brew as well rather than all other off shelf products had tested. Within 90 days of introduction of US fuel and before the brew we lost our first lift pump and 120 days later lost the other original equipment pump. By time swapped second lift pump with Cummins replacement our wrench had his brew perfected and have not lost a lift pump since.

Same arguement use with wife's liberal relatives that drive hybrids and electrics. Wife's truck has 250,000 miles, is like new (most who ride in it and don't know Dodge body style changes think its new) and has the highest torque engine of the second generation Rams plus the NV5600 transmission and ordered with Dana 80 axles. The B series (designed to run with sulphur, especially lift pumps) 24 valve engine gets 19 to 22 mpg on the interstate at 75 mpg and weighs 7,000 pounds. Since purchased the '01 diesel one relative is on fourth environmentally friendly car and asked her how much environmental issues her cars have caused from mining and disposing of lithium from batteries? How many kids in Africa have died to find and mine it? She refuses to believe her "green" vehicles can possibly be responsible for such atrocities as environmental car companies would not engage in doing business with non environmental friendly suppliers.

The brew goes in all our diesel engines and all seem totally happy with nothing more than normal service. Every friend that has tried it has been totally satisfied. Our wrench now leaves out the Gunk M7112 Diesel Fuel Sulfur Substitute*and uses a 50/50 mix oF the Power Service and Marvel Mystery Oil. We do the same when can't find the Gunk in large containers at reasonable price. Trucks seem to not know the difference between the two. Main thing is getting some lubricant in the fuel for all the moving parts in fuel system. Lubrication is all the sulphur really provided. Know some folks that swear buy two cycle oil mixed to diesel fuel. I am sticking with what know works.
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Old October 28, 2017, 13:23   #38
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Have two diesels, one is a 2001 Cummins 5.9L HO Turbo at 505 ft/lbs of torque and other is a Caterpillar 3126 Turbo. The 5.9 Cummins is all stock and the 3126 have advanced the timing and increased the fuel pressure on the rail just enough to get about 325 horsepower as 3116's and 3126's have a tendency to grenade if turn above 350 to 370 horsepower. Since am one or two short service calls from rolling 300,000 miles on the Caterpillar am pretty sure have not hurt it. The Cummins is less than 100 miles from a quarter million and had it serviced this week. Our mechanic offered to buy the truck for at least the fifth time. It runs smooth as when new, interior is like new and paint is still good.

Most important key to both trucks is were designed for a specific amount of sulphur in fuel and actually need more than was allowed in fuel when new in '97 and '01. From day one our mechanic has had us put fuel additive in every time we pump fuel along with fuel for the diesel generator. When Nobama regulated us to Ultra Low Sulfur fuel we went from an off the shelf additive to a homebrew additive designed by our mechanic. Whenever mash in the throttle hard still get the appropriate small puff of black smoke roll out the tail pipe of both. Is it better for the ecology for us to use additives or replace entire truck twice as often. Our mechanic experimented for months with different additive blends and this is what we use, a 1/3 mixture of Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost (white bottle not grey), 1/3 Gunk M7112 Diesel Fuel Sulfur Substitute*and 1/3 Marvel Mystery Oil.

When adopeted son worked for Cummins he spent two years in light and medium truck engine fuel systems design trying to keep up with government changes in fuel and emissions stamdards. He mixed up some of our mechanics brew (mix one ounce per gallon when add fuel) and tested at Cummins facility with their state of art equipment. Said while they can't recommend it as emissions were out of government specs, he and all of the other guys in the light/medium truck plant that drove Dodge Cummins personally started using the brew as well rather than all other off shelf products had tested. Within 90 days of introduction of US fuel and before the brew we lost our first lift pump and 120 days later lost the other original equipment pump. By time swapped second lift pump with Cummins replacement our wrench had his brew perfected and have not lost a lift pump since.

Same arguement use with wife's liberal relatives that drive hybrids and electrics. Wife's truck has 250,000 miles, is like new (most who ride in it and don't know Dodge body style changes think its new) and has the highest torque engine of the second generation Rams plus the NV5600 transmission and ordered with Dana 80 axles. The B series (designed to run with sulphur, especially lift pumps) 24 valve engine gets 19 to 22 mpg on the interstate at 75 mpg and weighs 7,000 pounds. Since purchased the '01 diesel one relative is on fourth environmentally friendly car and asked her how much environmental issues her cars have caused from mining and disposing of lithium from batteries? How many kids in Africa have died to find and mine it? She refuses to believe her "green" vehicles can possibly be responsible for such atrocities as environmental car companies would not engage in doing business with non environmental friendly suppliers.

The brew goes in all our diesel engines and all seem totally happy with nothing more than normal service. Every friend that has tried it has been totally satisfied. Our wrench now leaves out the Gunk M7112 Diesel Fuel Sulfur Substitute*and uses a 50/50 mix oF the Power Service and Marvel Mystery Oil. We do the same when can't find the Gunk in large containers at reasonable price. Trucks seem to not know the difference between the two. Main thing is getting some lubricant in the fuel for all the moving parts in fuel system. Lubrication is all the sulphur really provided. Know some folks that swear buy two cycle oil mixed to diesel fuel. I am sticking with what know works.
If you're trying to educate me about diesel engines, I have a little secret... I've been in the heavy truck and equipment business for 40+ years, literally grew up in the stuff. Worked on stuff from little 2 cylinder Detroits all the way up to 16 cylinder Cleveland Diesels on gensets with 601 cubic inches per hole. I currently manage a fleet with 36 diesel engines from 4BTA Cummins to 3412 Cat in a D-10 dozer. We don't use any additives in our fuel and I have yet to see any pump or injector issues. There is a small chance that ULSD may slightly shorten the normal wear life of certain types of fuel systems. I just finished a rebuild on a 500HP series 60 Detroit Diesel with 1.3 million original miles. Put 6 rebuilt injectors in it just for the hell of it. (they can't be tested well off the engine) We also have Cat and Cummins truck engines with 8-900,000 that have not had any fuel system issues other than normal wear items.
The lift pump issue you described is fairly common on B and C series Cummins engines in my experience. Die cast aluminum housing with a hardened steel plunger (What could go wrong there?) usually the check valves are the failure. Had a customer that insisted on running B-20 biodiesel for awhile, it swells up the rubber in the check valves and stops the fuel flow, I kept a bag of check valves in the service truck.
I have 3 diesels of my own currently A Dodge 1 ton with a 12V Cummins 230,000 miles, a 98 Chevy 1ton with a 6.5L diesel, and a Ford F-800 with 7.8L 6 cylinder. The only one I do use a fuel additive in is the Chevy, 210,000 miles and the Stanadyne performance product makes the tired old beast start easier and cleaner on cold mornings. And it's much quieter in cold mode.
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Old October 28, 2017, 22:15   #39
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If you're trying to educate me about diesel engines, I have a little secret... I've been in the heavy truck and equipment business for 40+ years, literally grew up in the stuff. Worked on stuff from little 2 cylinder Detroits all the way up to 16 cylinder Cleveland Diesels on gensets with 601 cubic inches per hole. I currently manage a fleet with 36 diesel engines from 4BTA Cummins to 3412 Cat in a D-10 dozer. We don't use any additives in our fuel and I have yet to see any pump or injector issues. There is a small chance that ULSD may slightly shorten the normal wear life of certain types of fuel systems. I just finished a rebuild on a 500HP series 60 Detroit Diesel with 1.3 million original miles. Put 6 rebuilt injectors in it just for the hell of it. (they can't be tested well off the engine) We also have Cat and Cummins truck engines with 8-900,000 that have not had any fuel system issues other than normal wear items.
The lift pump issue you described is fairly common on B and C series Cummins engines in my experience. Die cast aluminum housing with a hardened steel plunger (What could go wrong there?) usually the check valves are the failure. Had a customer that insisted on running B-20 biodiesel for awhile, it swells up the rubber in the check valves and stops the fuel flow, I kept a bag of check valves in the service truck.
I have 3 diesels of my own currently A Dodge 1 ton with a 12V Cummins 230,000 miles, a 98 Chevy 1ton with a 6.5L diesel, and a Ford F-800 with 7.8L 6 cylinder. The only one I do use a fuel additive in is the Chevy, 210,000 miles and the Stanadyne performance product makes the tired old beast start easier and cleaner on cold mornings. And it's much quieter in cold mode.
Ya know, I've got a friend that "really isn't a gun guy", I'm beginning to believe that you may not really be an equipment guy
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Old October 28, 2017, 22:58   #40
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Ya know, I've got a friend that "really isn't a gun guy", I'm beginning to believe that you may not really be an equipment guy
Friends don't let friends drive Freightliners.
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Old October 28, 2017, 23:02   #41
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Friends don't let friends drive Freightliners.
How about a falling star? Looks like I may be in a 4964F day cab when I get back from Germany. 525 N14, Eaton 18, 46k double locker rears, Hendrickson Chalmers suspension and a 260" wheelbase. Perfect highway truck right?
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Old October 28, 2017, 23:20   #42
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How about a falling star? Looks like I may be in a 4964F day cab when I get back from Germany. 525 N14, Eaton 18, 46k double locker rears, Hendrickson Chalmers suspension and a 260" wheelbase. Perfect highway truck right?
Yep... if you're pulling a 9 axle lowboy at 200k gross. Should do fine hauling steel plates though.
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Old October 28, 2017, 23:58   #43
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............. Perfect highway truck right?
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Old October 29, 2017, 00:07   #44
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Good lord that is an ugly truck,
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Old October 29, 2017, 09:02   #45
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Good lord that is an ugly truck,
You mean that isn't Moses Lake yard art?
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Old October 29, 2017, 09:41   #46
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If you're trying to educate me about diesel engines, I have a little secret... I've been in the heavy truck and equipment business for 40+ years, literally grew up in the stuff. Worked on stuff from little 2 cylinder Detroits all the way up to 16 cylinder Cleveland Diesels on gensets with 601 cubic inches per hole.
(Trim)
I have 3 diesels of my own currently A Dodge 1 ton with a 12V Cummins 230,000 miles, a 98 Chevy 1ton with a 6.5L diesel, and a Ford F-800 with 7.8L 6 cylinder. The only one I do use a fuel additive in is the Chevy, 210,000 miles and the Stanadyne performance product makes the tired old beast start easier and cleaner on cold mornings. And it's much quieter in cold mode.
Not trying to educate the experienced but amazes me how many diesel owners don't understand how to service and maintain their engines. Luckily best friend from high school grew up in service centers for Dodge, Ford and Ford Tractor dealerships. When dad passed the torch chose to let his brother buy out his interest in all the dealerships so could pursue his passion of twisting wrenches on diesel trucks and restoring antique tractors. He has a fleet of 12 valve all mechanical Cummins vehicles including a fork lift with a 5.9 that is a beast. The B series can run without any computers or electronics and can be turned up all a person wants and still be bullet proof. Our second generation 24V 2001 is the first of the reliable electronic and the 2002 are the last that are not total electronic nightmares. Some of the 1998 through 2000 had durability issues, especially with water jackets. We came close to buying a used 97 that was super clean but wife had never owned a new vehicle except motorcycles and the '01 had some nice creature comforts with the early 24V issues worked out. We turn down unsolicited offers to buy it almost monthly it's so clean and near perfect condition.

Another good friend is a full time heavy equipment mechanic specializing in logging equipment such as skidders, feller bunchers, knuckle boom loaders and bulldozers starting in the D7 and up size range. Watched and helped him tear a D9 high track down to undercarriage, strip rebuild and paint entire thing. I end up getting conned into reproducing every decal and label on everyone's restorations from antique tractors to airplanes. Did an entire instrument cluster for a WW2 torpedo bomber that had a big hole where it was supposed to be, no technical drawings but just two grainy 50 year old black and white photos of what the instrument panel looked like. Had to measure and recut templates a half dozen times then take a mix of modern and antique avionics gauges, remove bezels and reface gauges to look period appropriate. That was when I got my air traffic control systems, radar and aircraft radio endorsements was to be legal when restoring antique aircraft radios and gauges. Had a client that kept me busy for a decade till he died in me. Would like to find some more of those clients as pay whatever ask if can repop a guage face for an antique plane. Worst restoration ever involved in was a antique combine for harvesting corn.

I am a "hang around" not a professional but owning two diesel trucks currently, always around a diesel truck/heavy equipment shop plus adopted son working as a mechanical engineer for Cummins first in light/medium trucks, then moved to buses and fire truck sized vehicles and landed in Australia as their "in the field" tech rep on big mining equipment because is as much of a mechanic as a engineer have picked up a few things. Son now works on trains for one of Penske's heavy mover subsidiaries.

Till broke back and neck restored antique tractors and of my non steam engines my 1959 Allis Chalmers D17 was my antique tractor pulling beast. With proper injectors and injector pump work it would compete with the D19's if stacked enough weight and stripped down could compete in some lighter classes where nothing could out pull it. But a Saturday of moving 80 to 100 pound weights to change it for weight classes and the loading and unloading when got back to the barn was too much on me. I had to sell my steam engines first as just could not pull mantenance with a bad back, then diesel tractors followed by gas and tracks (had a 1949 John Deere M40 which was first tracked vehicle Deere ever made and mine was serial number 58) and miss my M40 more than all though current owner bought saying will sell back if ever want it. Can't remove the tracks and work on it and costs too much to pay for servicing a 60 plus year old first year model tracked machine though the little two cylinder gas engine was easy to work on.

So not a professional wrench but have done total restorations on steam engines, antique tractors and motorcycles, 60's and 70's vintage hotrods plus ground up motorcycle builds and 100% tractor tear downs and rebuilds. Spent a total of a month at schools learning and getting licensed to operate on boilers, steam governers, operate steam engines (many states it's illegal to operate a steam engine in public without a license) so have a clue for a layperson. Helped put a 5.9 Cummins in a Dodge Dakota 2WD which was used for 1/4 mile drags and really want to put a 4BT in a Dakota. Won't happen with the back as won't pay someone to do it as would cost a fortune. Need any big 2,000 ft/lb torque wrenches, spline drive impact wrenches or impact sockets in the 3" to 5" size? Just thinking of putting a big spline drive impact wrench on a 4.5" bolt makes my back hurt now....
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Old October 29, 2017, 18:32   #47
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You mean that isn't Moses Lake yard art?
No, that ugly beast is hiding out at the shop 'til I rip it's little Detroit Diesel heart out. It's currently quivering behind a grain bin where the rest of the world can't see it.
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Old October 29, 2017, 19:07   #48
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Need any big 2,000 ft/lb torque wrenches, spline drive impact wrenches or impact sockets in the 3" to 5" size? Just thinking of putting a big spline drive impact wrench on a 4.5" bolt makesmy back hurt now....
No. I'm trying to get rid of a bunch of that stuff myself. I have the Proto 2k torque wrench, and the big impact sockets. At my age I hate that stuff and would gladly give it to a younger guy that wants to beat himself up the way I did 30 years ago. Largest socket I have used in the last 2 years was 3" and that was enough for me, even with a good 1"impact wrench. Mine is a Bluepoint that has 3K ultimate torque and checking it with a good multiplier and torque wrench it will hit that value no problem. It really does a good job of getting old cutting edge bolts out of big dozers without torching nuts.
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Old October 30, 2017, 00:12   #49
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Haha, you said


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torching nuts.
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Old October 30, 2017, 14:03   #50
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1 to 100= 79% more lubricity.

That is 1 gallon of biodiesel to 100 gal of diesel fuel, works for me, Isuzu diesel in S10 has over 850,000 Miles on it now.
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