Yugo 48 stock refinish: what stain to use?

tulsamal · May 28, 2002, 00:03

I bought a Yugo 48 from Aim a couple months ago. I posted here that it had a sticky bolt (amongst other things). I've finally got the action 90% smoothed out but the stock still looked terrible. No real big dents or anything but the surface was all pebbly and rough with all the cosmoline that had soaked into it. I decided to just take the darn thing off and strip it. That stock has been through three treatments of Easy-Off oven cleaner and I think all the cosmo is finally gone. Now I'm just carefully trying to smooth everything out with some 220 grit sandpaper. I've got a nice "empty canvas" to work on now but I'm not sure exactly how to proceed from here.

What type/color of stain would be most appropriate to this model rifle? I don't want it to be shiny. I want it to be a good utilitarian finish for a gun that will be shot but I still want it to be around the right color for a Yugo.

Once I stain it, where should I go from there? I bought a can of Tung Oil but I'm open to other suggestions.

Once I get the stock done I'm going to have to work some more on the metal. I'm thinking about trying some of the Brownell's blueing for home use. I just want to wind up with a good, tough, service grade Mauser 98.

Thanks,

Gregg
Vinita, OK

Sumoj275 · May 28, 2002, 00:29

I like the Minwax Golden Oak stain because it is a nice honey color and it works great.

I use Gun Plumbers refinsh tecnique on his website. Works great. Then I apply Minwax floor wax and but it until I get a satin finish. Just my 2 cents on the refinish.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Sumoj275 · May 28, 2002, 00:30

Forgot to mention, the Japan Dryer will darken the finish upo if you use to muh. I generally skip that part on light colored wood, and it takes just a little longer to dry.

Brian in MN · May 28, 2002, 08:27

Think about using no stain. Look at some minty Yugo guns at shows. The furniture is very light.

tulsamal · May 28, 2002, 09:54

Brian,

Are you saying to just go straight to tung oil? The wood right now is a very light tan after all that oven cleaner. I'm not sure what it would look like if I just went straight to sealer.

Sumo,

I didn't know gunplumber had any info like that on his website. I'll have to go check it out. Would you say that Golden Oak would actually be close to the original color? The original as I received it actually seemed to have some red in it. Of course it was so oil soaked and cosmoline packed that judging the original color was just a guess.

Gregg

Sophicles · May 28, 2002, 17:57

I just went straight to the boiled linseed oil after I removed the cosmoline. It did seam a little strange to put oil right back on after I worked like crazy trying to get the grease out. However, it turned out to be one of the nicest looking Mausers I have seen.

tulsamal · May 28, 2002, 19:27

Hmmm, I do have a can of boiled linseed oil that I bought for some reason and then never used. I could try that. Is it one of those things that you put some on, let it dry, rub it down with 0000 steel wool, and then reapply?

I guess I can try a couple different things since I can always use the EZ-Off again if I don't like it!

I've just been waiting for the wood to feel totally dry before proceeding. The humidity it really high here in Oklahoma right now and the surface of the stock still doesn't feel like hard wood.

Gregg

Sophicles · May 28, 2002, 19:46

What I do is cut the BLO with mineral spirits 50/50 mix and rub it in (heat build up is good while rubbing it). The more coats you apply the darker it will get. I usually dont get past 3 or 4 coats. I think you will be pleased with it.

Sumoj275 · May 28, 2002, 21:57

I used the golden oak on an Izzy stock that was pretty light, not the pumpkin color, and it really high lighted the grain.

Guess you can try the BLO mix and if you don't like the results you can start over and try the golden oak.

You are right about the humidity. it has rained all day long in El Reno and OKC.

Good luck. Are you going up to the shoot?

Queenie · May 29, 2002, 00:02

Put some water on a small area of the stock. This approximates the color of an oil finish. I used BLO on a Mauser stock years ago and thought it darkened it too much. That was walnut so it might not be so bad on a lighter wood.

DuaneFrye · May 30, 2002, 11:45

I've had my best luck using Casey's Tru-Oil, without any stain. It darkens the wood (even beech) to a realy pretty medium brown color that doesn't hide the grain.
Normally, I prepare the stock, then spray the first couple of coats on, then the final coats are applied with the finger technique. 4-ought steel wool then for a nice egg shell sheen. It may not be "original", but it never fails to get compliments wherever it's seen.

hgjfkdls · June 15, 2002, 16:01

I used Golden Oak stain on my K-31 and thought it came out a little dark. Not really dark, and it looks pretty good, but a lot darker than I thought "golden" implied. It was more brown than gold and didn't really bring the grain out much (not that there was a lot to bring out). I have some other colors now (mahogany and natural) but haven't used them yet. If I were to redo the K-31 I would use the natural stain.

On all the guns I've refinised (except my M-48) I strip it down real good and then put 3-4 coats of one part BLO to two parts Mineral Spirits. I've been told that BLO penetrates better than Tung Oil. I just wipe it on with a brush in the morning and again that evening. I let it dry a day or so, then run one coat of Tung Oil on a day until I get the finish I want, using #0000 steel wool between coats. Some guns take 5-6 coats, some only a couple - it depends on the wood grain. The M-48 I just used BLO on straight and I'm not too happy with it. It's much darker than it was before I stripped it, so much so it looks dirty. I'm thinking of doing it again and this time I may put some stain on it (natural) and use thinned Tung Oil instead of BLO to keep it from getting dark. I didn't realize that BLO would do that until I read it here, but I guess if it penetrates the wood better it makes sense that it would effect the color more.

tulsamal: The wood will get a lot darker when you start putting oil on. Queenie is right - it will pretty much turn the same color as when it is wet.

m1shooter · June 16, 2002, 11:45

My gunsmith gave me 2 tables spoons of a powdered chemical that when mixed with water turns purple. brush it on and it goes on purple but turns a beautiful brown. Supposedly, this is what the original mausers were stained with. I just cant remember the name of the chemical. You can keep it forever, when the water evaporates you still have the chemical in the jar. just add more water. I used it on my Mauser, It is beautiful, and an original stain.2 tablespoons last forever. still have a jar of stain. and only used half. been here 2 yrs. cost $2.oo

Fray Bentos · June 16, 2002, 18:09

Any tips on how to get the forend cap to fit better?

To dissasemble the rifle I had to hit (not tap-HIT) the cap with a rubber mallett and a dowel, now I can't get it back together again!

I was going to sand the wood down a bit, but I don't want the forend to be a different colour to the rest of the stock- anyone have any insight on this?

May 28, 2002, 00:03	#1
tulsamal Registered FALaholic #: 1614 Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Vinita, OK Posts: 1,287	Yugo 48 stock refinish: what stain to use? I bought a Yugo 48 from Aim a couple months ago. I posted here that it had a sticky bolt (amongst other things). I've finally got the action 90% smoothed out but the stock still looked terrible. No real big dents or anything but the surface was all pebbly and rough with all the cosmoline that had soaked into it. I decided to just take the darn thing off and strip it. That stock has been through three treatments of Easy-Off oven cleaner and I think all the cosmo is finally gone. Now I'm just carefully trying to smooth everything out with some 220 grit sandpaper. I've got a nice "empty canvas" to work on now but I'm not sure exactly how to proceed from here. What type/color of stain would be most appropriate to this model rifle? I don't want it to be shiny. I want it to be a good utilitarian finish for a gun that will be shot but I still want it to be around the right color for a Yugo. Once I stain it, where should I go from there? I bought a can of Tung Oil but I'm open to other suggestions. Once I get the stock done I'm going to have to work some more on the metal. I'm thinking about trying some of the Brownell's blueing for home use. I just want to wind up with a good, tough, service grade Mauser 98. Thanks, Gregg Vinita, OK

May 30, 2002, 11:45	#11
DuaneFrye Registered FALaholic #: 3820 Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Painesville, Ohio Posts: 373	I've had my best luck using Casey's Tru-Oil, without any stain. It darkens the wood (even beech) to a realy pretty medium brown color that doesn't hide the grain. Normally, I prepare the stock, then spray the first couple of coats on, then the final coats are applied with the finger technique. 4-ought steel wool then for a nice egg shell sheen. It may not be "original", but it never fails to get compliments wherever it's seen. __________________ Duane Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for Your soul, the other for Your freedom.

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May 28, 2002, 00:29	#2
Sumoj275 Registered FALaholic #: 3417 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: OKLAHOMA Posts: 1,454	I like the Minwax Golden Oak stain because it is a nice honey color and it works great. I use Gun Plumbers refinsh tecnique on his website. Works great. Then I apply Minwax floor wax and but it until I get a satin finish. Just my 2 cents on the refinish. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

May 28, 2002, 00:30	#3
Sumoj275 Registered FALaholic #: 3417 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: OKLAHOMA Posts: 1,454	Forgot to mention, the Japan Dryer will darken the finish upo if you use to muh. I generally skip that part on light colored wood, and it takes just a little longer to dry.

May 28, 2002, 08:27	#4
Brian in MN Registered FALaholic #: 289 Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 4,927	Think about using no stain. Look at some minty Yugo guns at shows. The furniture is very light.

May 28, 2002, 09:54	#5
tulsamal Registered FALaholic #: 1614 Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Vinita, OK Posts: 1,287	Brian, Are you saying to just go straight to tung oil? The wood right now is a very light tan after all that oven cleaner. I'm not sure what it would look like if I just went straight to sealer. Sumo, I didn't know gunplumber had any info like that on his website. I'll have to go check it out. Would you say that Golden Oak would actually be close to the original color? The original as I received it actually seemed to have some red in it. Of course it was so oil soaked and cosmoline packed that judging the original color was just a guess. Gregg

May 28, 2002, 17:57	#6
Sophicles Registered FALaholic #: 976 Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: NC Posts: 1,503	I just went straight to the boiled linseed oil after I removed the cosmoline. It did seam a little strange to put oil right back on after I worked like crazy trying to get the grease out. However, it turned out to be one of the nicest looking Mausers I have seen.

May 28, 2002, 19:27	#7
tulsamal Registered FALaholic #: 1614 Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Vinita, OK Posts: 1,287	Hmmm, I do have a can of boiled linseed oil that I bought for some reason and then never used. I could try that. Is it one of those things that you put some on, let it dry, rub it down with 0000 steel wool, and then reapply? I guess I can try a couple different things since I can always use the EZ-Off again if I don't like it! I've just been waiting for the wood to feel totally dry before proceeding. The humidity it really high here in Oklahoma right now and the surface of the stock still doesn't feel like hard wood. Gregg

May 28, 2002, 19:46	#8
Sophicles Registered FALaholic #: 976 Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: NC Posts: 1,503	What I do is cut the BLO with mineral spirits 50/50 mix and rub it in (heat build up is good while rubbing it). The more coats you apply the darker it will get. I usually dont get past 3 or 4 coats. I think you will be pleased with it.

May 28, 2002, 21:57	#9
Sumoj275 Registered FALaholic #: 3417 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: OKLAHOMA Posts: 1,454	I used the golden oak on an Izzy stock that was pretty light, not the pumpkin color, and it really high lighted the grain. Guess you can try the BLO mix and if you don't like the results you can start over and try the golden oak. You are right about the humidity. it has rained all day long in El Reno and OKC. Good luck. Are you going up to the shoot?

May 29, 2002, 00:02	#10
Queenie Registered FALaholic #: 5544 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 1,025	Put some water on a small area of the stock. This approximates the color of an oil finish. I used BLO on a Mauser stock years ago and thought it darkened it too much. That was walnut so it might not be so bad on a lighter wood.

June 15, 2002, 16:01	#12
hgjfkdls Registered FALaholic #: 4033 Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 93	I used Golden Oak stain on my K-31 and thought it came out a little dark. Not really dark, and it looks pretty good, but a lot darker than I thought "golden" implied. It was more brown than gold and didn't really bring the grain out much (not that there was a lot to bring out). I have some other colors now (mahogany and natural) but haven't used them yet. If I were to redo the K-31 I would use the natural stain. On all the guns I've refinised (except my M-48) I strip it down real good and then put 3-4 coats of one part BLO to two parts Mineral Spirits. I've been told that BLO penetrates better than Tung Oil. I just wipe it on with a brush in the morning and again that evening. I let it dry a day or so, then run one coat of Tung Oil on a day until I get the finish I want, using #0000 steel wool between coats. Some guns take 5-6 coats, some only a couple - it depends on the wood grain. The M-48 I just used BLO on straight and I'm not too happy with it. It's much darker than it was before I stripped it, so much so it looks dirty. I'm thinking of doing it again and this time I may put some stain on it (natural) and use thinned Tung Oil instead of BLO to keep it from getting dark. I didn't realize that BLO would do that until I read it here, but I guess if it penetrates the wood better it makes sense that it would effect the color more. tulsamal: The wood will get a lot darker when you start putting oil on. Queenie is right - it will pretty much turn the same color as when it is wet.

June 16, 2002, 11:45	#13
m1shooter Registered FALaholic #: 3535 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Louisville Posts: 575	My gunsmith gave me 2 tables spoons of a powdered chemical that when mixed with water turns purple. brush it on and it goes on purple but turns a beautiful brown. Supposedly, this is what the original mausers were stained with. I just cant remember the name of the chemical. You can keep it forever, when the water evaporates you still have the chemical in the jar. just add more water. I used it on my Mauser, It is beautiful, and an original stain.2 tablespoons last forever. still have a jar of stain. and only used half. been here 2 yrs. cost $2.oo

June 16, 2002, 18:09	#14
Fray Bentos Registered FALaholic #: 827 Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 341	Any tips on how to get the forend cap to fit better? To dissasemble the rifle I had to hit (not tap-HIT) the cap with a rubber mallett and a dowel, now I can't get it back together again! I was going to sand the wood down a bit, but I don't want the forend to be a different colour to the rest of the stock- anyone have any insight on this?