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Old February 08, 2013, 17:57   #1
wertron
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L1A1 Magazine Refinishing

Hello there! I just bought these Old and Rusty L1A1 Magazines. I want to Refinish them. I was thinking of PB Blaster Rust remover and sandpaper (what number of sandpaper do you guys recommend?). The paint I think I'll use is Harris Rust Remover/protector Flat Black paint, or Krylon. Do I need to apply primer First?

I'll appreciate any advice From you guys

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Old February 08, 2013, 18:41   #2
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Have access to a sandblaster? I wire wheel?
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Old February 08, 2013, 18:45   #3
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Have access to a sandblaster? I wire wheel?
Maybe, I think I know someone that has one.
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Old February 08, 2013, 18:56   #4
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Oil the shat out of them for a day then steel wool them.
Best to parkerize them but if not available then ghetto coat them.
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Old February 08, 2013, 19:06   #5
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LOL Thanks for the advise. I'll use the Dremel w/steel wool and then ghetto coat just one of them to see how it looks. I'm still open to suggestions
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Old February 09, 2013, 07:50   #6
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I had the exact same issue with a bunch I bought. I used a finish sander for the majority of the rust/old paint and a sanding sponge for the tight spots.
It worked good but was EXTREMELY time consuming. I did this with two magazines and then decided on a different route. I sent the rest of them to a buddy of mine who has access to sand blasting equipment. He said he can get that old patina and rust off in a matter of minutes. We'll see how they turn out.
In the mean time, the other two that I sanded by hand are being refinished with Alumahyde. I have only had the chance to refinish one so far, and that in matte black. It's my first time working with Alumahyde but given my lack of experience with it I'm happy with how it turned out.
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Old February 09, 2013, 10:09   #7
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If you don't have access to a blasting setup, use electrolysis. It'll convert the rust back to iron without removing good metal from the magazine. What's left will be easily removed with a green 3M pad and you'll have a surface that's ready for recoating. You'll need a plastic bucket, washing soda, a battery charger, and a sacrificial anode. A Google search will give you the details.

It's applied high school chemistry, but it works like magic.
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Old February 09, 2013, 12:05   #8
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Electrolosis made easy. Don't use stainless steel for the electrode though, just use a piece of steel or, iron.

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Old February 09, 2013, 12:08   #9
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Redneck version.

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Old February 10, 2013, 01:19   #10
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Thanks for posting the videos. May have to try that on some parts. Would this be useful for removing heavy surface rust without disturbing the underlying finish?
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Old February 10, 2013, 08:53   #11
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blast, park, paint.

Really, at some point one has to stop trying to "work around" and just do it.
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Old February 10, 2013, 09:54   #12
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Quote:
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blast, park, paint.

Really, at some point one has to stop trying to "work around" and just do it.
No matter what we work on or want to accomplish , Marks answer , to me , is the way to go.
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Old February 10, 2013, 10:50   #13
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Wire wheel won't take that long or too much off if it's just surface rust. Hell just take a dry cloth to it first and wipe and tons of rust will come off. Then try some oil on it. Then see what you got. Green scratchy might work, or steel wool.

Allumahyde 2 worked good for me on some STG 58 Mags. Just bust the rust, degrease and turn the oven on 250 pop them in, take them out and paint. bake them if you want for a few minutes. Hang em a couple days then buff them with 0000 steel wool. Not as tough as parking, but it will keep them from rusting until you use them a bunch.
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Old February 10, 2013, 12:11   #14
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Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
blast, park, paint.

Really, at some point one has to stop trying to "work around" and just do it.
Don't take teh fun out of being difFuruUnt.

Don't got no blast cabinet.

Don't got no park set up.

Gots bucket.

Gots water.

Gots 1952 vintage Craftsman battery charger.

Gots sody stuff.

Gots time.

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Old February 13, 2013, 13:59   #15
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Cerakote.
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Old February 13, 2013, 16:36   #16
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blast, park, paint.

Really, at some point one has to stop trying to "work around" and just do it.
Without doubt, the best way to go. This replicates the original finish. I'd only add and highly recommend using Rustoleum self priming black paint in the rattle can, in flat or semi gloss.
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Old February 15, 2013, 12:54   #17
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I'll Update with Pics as soon as I can. I stripped the mags and soaked them in synthetic oil. Magazine Springs has light surface rust that will come off easy. When I first saw them I thought these mags were recovered from the Titanic...
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Old February 17, 2013, 17:18   #18
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FN FAL Magazine restoration

You could try a product call "Dry Film Lube". You can get it in a spray can.

The type I use is Sandstrom from:

SANDSTROM PRODUCTS COMPANY
Port Byron, IL 61275

WWW.SANDSTROMPRODUCTS.COM

The Military calls it: LUBRICANT, SOLID FILM
MIL-L-23398D
TYPE II
NSN: 9150-01-260-2534

But the Civilian version is:

Perma-Silk G Air Dry MoS2 (Molidisulfide) Solid Film Lubricant - 16 oz Aerosol Can - MIL-L-23398D

you can google this product......its about $17.71 a can. Heres the link....

http://www.skygeek.com/everlube-perm...FQ6FnQodgnkA6Q



To do this procedure all you need to do is take your mags apart.....clean the follower and spring while they are out.....take your floor plate and clean (if floor plate is scatched up just clean with Denatured alcohol and a scotchbrite pad and rinse with the alcohol and then paint with flat black, and set aside the follower, spring and floor plate.

The can instruction say to clean metal parts (your magazine body is your case) with as said in earlier post with wire wheel.... sand paper which is ever easier to get your hands on, I use about 180 grit sandpaper. Then use alcohol to rinse then wipe with clean cloth or rag...making sure you do not touch the metal.

Then you set them standing up and spray away.....about 2 to 3 coats will do it...once you are done with them let dry about 30 minutes to 1 hour before handling. Allow 6 hours fo complete cure. After about 30 minutes...you can put them on a old baking pan and bake for 10 minutes at 150 degrees in the oven and let flash out.....it will smell alittle but hey for a great cause. Then let cool......DONE...reassemble !!!

The dry film coating will give you a FLAT dark gray color. Once you use them alot and they get worn over time (but not worn through to the metal)....just do the process all over again. If you shoot alot.....one every 4 to 5 years....

Hope this helps...its the easy way....if it works on Main Rotor Blade Pins and other components on Blackhawks helicopters.....it works great on mags..
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Old February 18, 2013, 08:57   #19
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Take the mags apart.

1) Soak in Purple Power De-Ruster for 24 hours. Converts rust and removes the old paint. Just rinse with water and lightly scrub with a green pad to remove lose paint. This can get into the seams where blasting can't.
http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_de-ruster.html

2) Allow to thoroughly dry (set in the sun or use an old oven). Then prime with DUPLI-COLOR™ Engine Enamel with Ceramic™, Gray Primer (DE1612).

3) Apply at least 3 light coats of DUPLI-COLOR™ Engine Enamel with Ceramic™, Ford Semi-Gloss Black (DE1635).

4) Allow to air cure for 24 hours then bake in old oven/toaster oven at 325 degrees for 1 hour (make sure oven is outside or in WELL ventilated area). Remember paint will get a little soft, so remove immediately and hang to cool. Also if you cannot hang them in the oven place them on an old cookie sheet on their edge, do not place them on the wire rack directly or you will get the line in the finish. After cool, the finish will be rock hard.

Beside the pitting, they will look brand new and the DE1635 is almost an exact match to the Brit black paint.
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Last edited by 4markk; February 18, 2013 at 11:37.
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Old February 18, 2013, 09:04   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKIAVN1 View Post
You could try a product call "Dry Film Lube". You can get it in a spray can.

The type I use is Sandstrom from:

SANDSTROM PRODUCTS COMPANY
Port Byron, IL 61275

WWW.SANDSTROMPRODUCTS.COM

The Military calls it: LUBRICANT, SOLID FILM
MIL-L-23398D
TYPE II
NSN: 9150-01-260-2534

But the Civilian version is:

Perma-Silk G Air Dry MoS2 (Molidisulfide) Solid Film Lubricant - 16 oz Aerosol Can - MIL-L-23398D

you can google this product......its about $17.71 a can. Heres the link....

http://www.skygeek.com/everlube-perm...FQ6FnQodgnkA6Q
Interesting stuff, I wonder how that compares to GunKote. I may have to check the stuff out.
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The difference between the possible and the impossible is only in the degree of a man's will. Chinese Proverb

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Old February 18, 2013, 10:22   #21
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Originally Posted by 4markk View Post
Interesting stuff, I wonder how that compares to GunKote. I may have to check the stuff out.
Not that durable at all. You know all those brassy looking AR mags from the 80's floating around. That's the finish that was on them. All the USGI grey mags used to have that finish. It is not that durable.
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Old February 25, 2013, 14:55   #22
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UPDATE

Before





After





They look better now. I think I'm going to leave them like this for now, thanks for the advice Guys
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Old February 25, 2013, 15:17   #23
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what did you end up doing?
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Old February 25, 2013, 15:32   #24
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what did you end up doing?
I soaked the magazines in synthetic oil; let them rest for a few days. Used stainless steel scrubber, rust came out very easy. Magazine Followers now feels really smooth. I think they are now fully functional.
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Old February 25, 2013, 17:30   #25
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Most excellant!

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I just need a million bucks! Is that so hard to understand?

Were it not for ignorance, thus we would remain.

Never hate your enemy, it only clouds your judgment.
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Old February 27, 2013, 08:02   #26
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Nice, I've got to do something with my mags as well. Good option
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Old February 27, 2013, 12:33   #27
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Wertron your mags look great now!!

I ordered inch mags from Numrich a while back and need to clean the cosmoline off of them. Don't think there is any rust on them but won't know until they are cleaned up.

I have some free jet fuel I can use to soak them in. I think that should get the cosmoline off.

Anyone else use jet or deisel fuel to clean off cosmoline?
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Old February 27, 2013, 18:48   #28
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I used one of these on my half paint half rust mags. Did pretty nice.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_384554-98-90...t_avg_rating|1
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Old March 06, 2013, 19:14   #29
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Try using my wifes stove to cook gunparts and Id be alone with half my stuff -

Purple Power or Rust Aid, prime and paint - - I have used Rustoleum grill paint to good effect before now.

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