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Old November 23, 2012, 22:56   #1
FALRifle
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Gas Tube Nut removal

I have tried the wrench for it, designed my own pair of pliers for it, used a brass punch and mallet and I can't get the damn thing to budge. I feel like I am beating my rifle to death trying to remove this damn thing. I have used penetrating oil and nothing. Is there anyone in my area (Plano, IL) that may can help remove this thing? I want to mount my dsa extended scope mount to my rifle but I need to remove my carry handle. I bought a filler for it but can't get the gas tube nut out. Anybody close enough to help out sometime?
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Old November 23, 2012, 23:02   #2
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Aint tried the smoke wrench yet?
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Old November 23, 2012, 23:15   #3
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If it has been overly tightened, rusted in place, not cleaned enough and corrosion has set in or any combination of the three will most likely require the torch or welding some sort of "handle" to get a good purchase for the initial breaking loose of teh offending part. If you were closer, I would get that thang out!!


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Old November 23, 2012, 23:52   #4
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It is one of the last dsa stg58 builds done by dsa. So it shouldn;t be to corroded on I wouldn't think. But who knows. I don't have a torch of any sort to heat it up.
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Old November 24, 2012, 08:28   #5
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I have not found any in all my years that cannot be removed with these modified channel lock pliers.

http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.co....shtml#anchor7
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Old November 24, 2012, 10:52   #6
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When I put the breechplug back into an of my inline muzzleloaders,I always slather the threads with anti-seize. Can't see where doing on reassembly of a gas tube nut would be a bad idea.
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Old November 24, 2012, 11:15   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RG Coburn View Post
When I put the breechplug back into an of my inline muzzleloaders,I always slather the threads with anti-seize. Can't see where doing on reassembly of a gas tube nut would be a bad idea.
Well, the gas tube nut should never be more than finger tight in the first place. Anti-seize would work but I would use it very sparingly, too much and I could see it running out all over the receiver face and through the carry handle slot. You really shouldn't need it at all.
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Old November 24, 2012, 11:22   #8
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Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
I have not found any in all my years that cannot be removed with these modified channel lock pliers.

http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.co....shtml#anchor7
I will try making a pair of these this afternoon. Is there any trick to not scuffing the hell out of the gas tube nut? Would putting a piece of leather or something between the channel lock pliers and the nut help???
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Old November 24, 2012, 11:49   #9
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I don't think that you get it. The very front of both jaws of the pliers are ground to create a pawl or tooth profiled to fully engage the profile of the recess in the gas tube nut. The serrations have been ground off behind the pawl so as not to mar the gas tube nut. The pliers do not grip the nut so much as engage it.
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Old November 24, 2012, 11:58   #10
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Yeah, the gas tube nut should not be very tight, but enough that it will not unscrew under heavy use. GP is probably right with the pliers idea, but I have used a homemade wrench for about as long as anyone here and have never seen one withstand it's torque. It started out as an ordinary 13mm Volkswagen wrench with a small ground-to-fit metal tab. With either one of these tools (or both) added to your arsenal of FAL tools, you should be good to go. Here it is:






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Old November 24, 2012, 12:13   #11
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This worked for me!

Great advice!!!!! Thanks NZ L1A1 Collector! (his pic too)
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File Type: jpg Wrench (WENGER SAK).jpg (62.6 KB, 81 views)
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Old November 24, 2012, 12:31   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennaquhair View Post
I don't think that you get it. The very front of both jaws of the pliers are ground to create a pawl or tooth profiled to fully engage the profile of the recess in the gas tube nut. The serrations have been ground off behind the pawl so as not to mar the gas tube nut. The pliers do not grip the nut so much as engage it.
I got it. I just was concerned about if the nut is on stiff it may scuff up the slots on the nut considering the pliers are steel. I just don't want to bugger it up if I can help it.
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Old November 24, 2012, 15:14   #13
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Well I got the SOB off. Damn thing was really on there. I made a set like GP had pictured:


Thanks for all the advice fellas.

One last thing upon screwing it back in should I use any grease or anything or is it good to just screw back in?
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Old November 24, 2012, 20:03   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def90 View Post
Well, the gas tube nut should never be more than finger tight in the first place. Anti-seize would work but I would use it very sparingly, too much and I could see it running out all over the receiver face and through the carry handle slot. You really shouldn't need it at all.
Didn't see this. Disregard previous question. Thanks again guys for all the advice
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Old November 25, 2012, 10:24   #15
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I have a hd FN made gas tube wrench coming from GP I wanna change the carrying handle to fit my meathooks better
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