swede mauser bolt receiver problems

detroit360 · January 05, 2012, 06:12

heres the deal,I have a 1943 husky receiver and a bolt I bought some time ago new and unnumbered well the bolt does not want to go into the receiver , its like getting hung up on the trigger and that other piece that sticks up a little farther down the receiverany way I think they are jamming the bolt, do they need to be ground to fit or what?

**Texgunner** · January 05, 2012, 08:28

It sounds like the bolt might have become "uncocked". I know when that happens on a 98 Mauser, the bolt will NOT go back into the receiver; I'm not sure if the same applies to that model Mauser. Do a Goggle search for directions on re-cocking the bolt if that's the issue.
Gary

detroit360 · January 07, 2012, 09:42

NO its not that, my other swede bolt wont go in either,took out the trigger and and they both slide right in,on the trigger there are 2 parts that stick up in the reciever one is I guess is called a sear , the other farther in the receiver sticks up also, so I think that one whatever it does needs to have a bit ground off of it, what do you think?

Peconga · January 08, 2012, 15:48

Swedish Mauser parts were all very precisely made and from my experience should have a high degree of interchangeability. This includes all variations (M1894 Carbine, M1896 Rifle, and M1941 Short Rifle) and all makers (Mauser Oberndorf, Carl Gustafs, and Husqvarna). Little if any hand-fitting should be required for replacement parts, assuming they are original manufacture and not from another model (Argentine M1891, Spanish M1895, etc). Before you start grinding on anything, I would suggest tracking down another intact Swedish rifle (local collector, gunshow, friendly gunshop, etc) and do some close comparisons and trial fitting (mix-and-match) to make darn sure what I'm doing. Removing metal is easy; putting it back is not.

On your own rifle, I'd first remove the ejector box assembly (bolt stop) and trigger to get them out of the way, and then start trial fitting your parts with a completely disassembled bolt (remove the extractor and all internals i.e. firing pin, cocking piece, etc) to check smooth function. At the same time, I would also check headspace using proper headspace gauges. I would then re-install the extractor and repeat to make it is not hanging up on the inside of the receiver (sometimes they get bowed outward and drag). Only then would I install the bolt internals and trigger to check fit and function. Remember that the Swedish Mauser is a "cock-on-closing" design, not a "cock-on-opening" like a Mauser 98 and most modern sporting rifles. Last I would re-install the ejector box assembly to make sure the ejector itself is not dragging on the bolt, which can happen sometimes if it is an incorrect replacement or has gotten bent due to mishandling.

Best of luck!

detroit360 · January 09, 2012, 19:02

Well I got every thing working, that piece on the trigger whatever its calledjust took a little taken off it, evidently the husky receiver is maybe just a touch different by thousands of a inch

January 05, 2012, 06:12	#1
detroit360 Registered FALaholic #: 7685 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 1,111	swede mauser bolt receiver problems heres the deal,I have a 1943 husky receiver and a bolt I bought some time ago new and unnumbered well the bolt does not want to go into the receiver , its like getting hung up on the trigger and that other piece that sticks up a little farther down the receiverany way I think they are jamming the bolt, do they need to be ground to fit or what?

January 05, 2012, 08:28	#2
Texgunner long-time Texas taxpayer Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 4653 Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: central Texas-Milam county Posts: 2,509	It sounds like the bolt might have become "uncocked". I know when that happens on a 98 Mauser, the bolt will NOT go back into the receiver; I'm not sure if the same applies to that model Mauser. Do a Goggle search for directions on re-cocking the bolt if that's the issue. Gary __________________ "I'm Snake River Rufus Crile, a long way from home. I'm blood kin to a Gila monster, can drink my weight in wolf poison. Massacre, bloodshed, famine and drought all put meat on my bones. Hardship and slaughter, my daily bread. I can whip a full grown longhorn cow with my hands tied, make violent love to mountain lions. My trigger fingers are itchy; I'm set to go, red hot" from "The Life and Times of Judge Roy Bean"

January 08, 2012, 15:48	#4
Peconga Registered FALaholic #: 1881 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Idaho USA Posts: 795	Swedish Mauser parts were all very precisely made and from my experience should have a high degree of interchangeability. This includes all variations (M1894 Carbine, M1896 Rifle, and M1941 Short Rifle) and all makers (Mauser Oberndorf, Carl Gustafs, and Husqvarna). Little if any hand-fitting should be required for replacement parts, assuming they are original manufacture and not from another model (Argentine M1891, Spanish M1895, etc). Before you start grinding on anything, I would suggest tracking down another intact Swedish rifle (local collector, gunshow, friendly gunshop, etc) and do some close comparisons and trial fitting (mix-and-match) to make darn sure what I'm doing. Removing metal is easy; putting it back is not. On your own rifle, I'd first remove the ejector box assembly (bolt stop) and trigger to get them out of the way, and then start trial fitting your parts with a completely disassembled bolt (remove the extractor and all internals i.e. firing pin, cocking piece, etc) to check smooth function. At the same time, I would also check headspace using proper headspace gauges. I would then re-install the extractor and repeat to make it is not hanging up on the inside of the receiver (sometimes they get bowed outward and drag). Only then would I install the bolt internals and trigger to check fit and function. Remember that the Swedish Mauser is a "cock-on-closing" design, not a "cock-on-opening" like a Mauser 98 and most modern sporting rifles. Last I would re-install the ejector box assembly to make sure the ejector itself is not dragging on the bolt, which can happen sometimes if it is an incorrect replacement or has gotten bent due to mishandling. Best of luck! __________________ Yr hmbl srvnt, Peconga "Do the best you can, with what you have, where you are." Teddy Roosevelt Last edited by Peconga; January 08, 2012 at 16:09.

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January 07, 2012, 09:42	#3
detroit360 Registered FALaholic #: 7685 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 1,111	NO its not that, my other swede bolt wont go in either,took out the trigger and and they both slide right in,on the trigger there are 2 parts that stick up in the reciever one is I guess is called a sear , the other farther in the receiver sticks up also, so I think that one whatever it does needs to have a bit ground off of it, what do you think?

January 09, 2012, 19:02	#5
detroit360 Registered FALaholic #: 7685 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 1,111	Well I got every thing working, that piece on the trigger whatever its calledjust took a little taken off it, evidently the husky receiver is maybe just a touch different by thousands of a inch