Some L1A1 questions...

[TriggerHappyAndy]

Hi!

I just ordered an L1A1 and have a few questions:


1. What modifications can I do to get the maximum precision out of it?

2. I want a 9mm conversion for it, but I don't want to spend hours to change it. Is there any quick-change conversion avaliable?

3. I am using it for competition in IPSC rifle, are there any good belt mag holders avaliable?

Cheers from Sweden!

/Andy

[SteelonSteel]

1. all you really can do is add a top cover that takes a scope. That will help you aim better but there isn't much to change a basic FAL's accuracy. You can spend a lot of money on parts and grips, stocks, and free float tubes but you may still be a 2"-4" inch per 100 meter rifle. Some individual rifles are better and some are worse but most will just be "combat" accuracte.

2. 9mm conversion? I never heard of such a beast for a FAL, would be a tight fit with the .30 cal bore. Now a .22 conversion is doable and there was a group buy in the market place awhile ago. There are also some surplus .22 trainer kits for the FAL out there. Over here the top receiver is the "firearm" and not really conducive to conversions with a larger bore.

3. I'll let someone else comment on IPSC paraphenalia.

Cheers!

[TriggerHappyAndy]

Thank you for the information Steelonsteel!
Well, I guess a .22 conversion will have to do then.
And perhaps I can get better accuracy by trying diffrent hand loads...
The free floating handguards sounds interesting though... has anyone tried them?

[Andy the Aussie]

Depending on if you are using irons or optics but you should tighten the sight body on the base, tighten the upper to lower fit and make sure there is NO play in the flash supressor. Those were the main things we did to rifles for competition use out here.

Andy

[enbloc8]

How would you recommend doing all three, assuming iron sights? I've heard of using a lock washer in the receiver hinge pin but that's about it.

[TriggerHappyAndy]

Thank's Andy!

Do you have any info about the performance before and after you did those things?

[msnyder]

Take it out and shoot it and then report back with your results. You may have a real nice shooter from the start or you may need to clean your barrel, crown your barrel, replace your barrel, change ammunition or tighten something up. From an early Brit barrel with good surplus ammo I would expect anywhere from 2-6 moa 5 shot groups, late Brit barrel I expect 1.5-3 moa, Aussie 2-4 moa. I've also heard that replacing the flash suppressor with the Canadian type improves accuracy due to larger ID.

[TriggerHappyAndy]

thanks, I'll write a range report when I get it.

[gunplumber]

It really is as easy as Andy described.

Squeeze the rear sight in a vise until it is a tight fit on the base but still can slide. Use a good spring for the bearing.

There is a mechanism for flaring the lower receiver to make a tighter lateral fit to the upper. If there is vertical play, it is probably too much to weld up and resurface the locking lug, but you can weld or use an OS-1 or OS-2 receiver locking catch.

on the flash hider, it is a careful balance. The flash hider should hand tighten to 15-30 degrees short of bottom dead center. A canadian flash hider has been overbored for "enhanced accuracy?

If you crunch the flash hider on too hard you can compress the muzzle. After install, a .297 plug should pass. Ok to have some resistance at muzzle as long as plug gauge clears.

[def90]

The question is how accurate do you expect it to get? The FAL/L1A1 was designed as a Battle Rifle. It is not a DMR and never will be. 2-3 MOA groups are the usual, some have been able to get to 1.5 or so but I think they are the exception and somehow the stars have aligned for them.

Skennerton states in the Aussie L1A1 book that the US imported Poyer L1A1A rifles produced better accuracy results as more attention was paid to hand selecting the parts that were used in those rifles. He says these rifles were able to achieve 10 shot 1.5 inch groups at 100 yds vs 2.5 inch groups for standard production rifles.

Your best bet for an accurate FAL is likely upper to lower lock up, tight sight base and the luck of the draw on the barrel. Spending money on free floating barrels and so on is likely a waste of money unless you have a bottomless pocketbook. Many people here have tried it, some have succeeded some not, others have succeeded with stock rifles which leads me to believe that the barrel is the single most important piece of the puzzle.

[msnyder]

Originally posted by gunplumber
A canadian flash hider has been overbored for "enhanced accuracy?

Saw this on one of Pat's marketplace ads when he was selling the Canadian hider. I picked up a couple to try them out but haven't done anything with them yet.

[gunplumber]

Not convinced it makes any difference. The bullet either clears, or it doesn't. I suspect that the claim is spin. The real reason is so damage to the flash hider is less likely to cause bullet strike.

[gunplumber]

Originally posted by def90
Skennerton states in the Aussie L1A1 book that the US imported Poyer L1A1A rifles produced better accuracy results as more attention was paid to hand selecting the parts that were used in those rifles. He says these rifles were able to achieve 10 shot 1.5 inch groups at 100 yds vs 2.5 inch groups for standard production rifles.

I'll believe it when there is actual data to support his claim.

[larrymo]

I don't know the rules in your class of shooting. But if your allowed to load your own ammo, that can be the biggest improvment in accuracy. Find what the gun likes to shoot best. I'VE taken rifles from a 2 in. group to a .750 in. group@100 yds. just by loading my own ammo and finding what the liked to shoot best.

[TriggerHappyAndy]

Thank's again for the help everyone!
I have used the rifle a lot the past couple of weeks and it shoots about two MOA with german 7.62 surplus ammo / original iron sights. But probably a bit better with a scope. Here is a picture of the rifle:

[TriggerHappyAndy]

Also, what can you guys tell me about these markings in the barrel and gas cylinder?







Cheers!

[msnyder]

Originally Posted by TriggerHappyAndy

Also, what can you guys tell me about these markings in the barrel and gas cylinder?

It's an '83 Enfield hammer forged barrel. I believe VHC is hammer forged barrel and chamber. '82 Enfield gas tube. FB607 is Firth Brown Steel batch #.

[enbloc8]

Nice rifle!

Next question...what maker and year?

[BC]

When I saw Sweden I knew it's gonna be something original, Inch or Metric, even both.

[TriggerHappyAndy]

The maker is Enfield, I dont know what year. how can you tell what year its made?

[NEWFNL1A1]

Originally Posted by TriggerHappyAndy

The maker is Enfield, I dont know what year. how can you tell what year its made?

Right next to the big UE on the lower receiver, there should be a big 2 digit number....that's the year it was made.

[enbloc8]

Originally Posted by NEWFNL1A1

Right next to the big UE on the lower receiver, there should be a big 2 digit number....that's the year it was made.

If it's an original-receiver rifle, the info will be on the left side of the upper receiver as well. It will read (for example) "UE 61 A12345", meaning in this case Enfield, 1961 manufacture, serial number A12345.

[TriggerHappyAndy]

It says 60 on all reciever parts, so I guess it's from 1960

[tobinb]

Originally Posted by gunplumber

It really is as easy as Andy described.

There is a mechanism for flaring the lower receiver to make a tighter lateral fit to the upper.

Mark,

Are you in a position to describe this in a little bit more detail, please? I'm the other side of the Pacific and it would be impractical to send you the rifle for the work.