APEX G 1 kit.

BrooklynBeer · February 11, 2011, 21:48

OK, this is my first FAL, not my first build. I have a book on the way but until then I have a question. How does one go about removing the butt plate ? I started loosing the screw in back and after 3/8 an ich it just spins. Won't back out any further. Before I go shooting a spring across the room someone please tell me what step I am missing here.?

**msnyder** · February 11, 2011, 22:02

The screw in the middle of the metal buttplate screws into the recoil tube nut.
The recoil tube nut fastens the buttstock onto the lower by screwing into the recoil tube. The recoil tube is screwed into the lower. There is a schematic on
DSA's website if that helps.

Try gently prying the bolt the rest of the way out. May have some rust. The recoil spring won't come flying out unless you unscrew the recoil tube nut that the buttplate screw is threaded into.

BrooklynBeer · February 11, 2011, 22:05

Thank you! So I guess if I go to unscrewing the nut under the plate I will have a can of slinkys coming out ? I want to get started on the wood and cleaning

**kev** · February 11, 2011, 22:17

Yeah, they'll emerge with gusto. Run a cleaning rod into the hole before cutting them loose so you have some control. Luring them back into their nest is the tricky part.

DJ60 · February 11, 2011, 22:19

BB, any problems with the kit? I got one from them and got 2 of the same bipod leg. Other than that it was good. Bummer is that I have to replace a lot of good parts thanks to the ATF.

BrooklynBeer · February 11, 2011, 22:21

Evidently the nut that held the recoil in place was either turning while I worked out the plate screw or it was never screwed in all the way from another time because after 1/2 turn it decided to leave the butt at a high rate of speed and end up in the kitchen. Where the nut went went is anyones guess !

Now I feel better because sooner or later something like this has to happen when screwing around with a weapon I basically am a cherry with. Now to get the stock off.

Anyone got a spare recoil tube nut?

BrooklynBeer · February 11, 2011, 22:26

I am still going over parts because I have never seen a FAL apart before. Grew bored with AK's and my RPD stuff won't be ready for a month + so I figured what the hey. I am already hooked by the feel of it. Everything looks used is all. Nothing I am not used too. I did also get one of the STG barrels and that will be going back. I'll be damned if I can see more then a hint of rifling left in it. They have the 60 dollar barrels but after seeing this one I don't know. What would be a good change out for the G1 needing a bi-pod cut?

FUUN063 · February 11, 2011, 23:14

Hey, Gary we need the pic of spring face boy!

Leland

**msnyder** · February 12, 2011, 00:19

Quote:

What would be a good change out for the G1 needing a bi-pod cut?

Get a bipod cut Argentine barrel from Sarco. They also show up in the marketplace from time to time. You can then use it with a combo device or a muzzle brake or if you want it to look like a G1 and take a G1 hider then give Adam762 a call.

DJ60 · February 12, 2011, 08:50

I have a new Argie barrel on order from Sarco--$189.95 and 2-3 weeks lead time. Threaded muzzle is different from G1 but apparently correctable. For mine I'm going to screw on a Zero Climb muzzle brake anyway.

BrooklynBeer · February 12, 2011, 09:00

Yes i was over there looking at them myself. I am about as Cherry to an FAL build as one can be. I do like the look of the G1 brake but it doesn't have to be. I just want my first build to be entirely reliable and fully fuctional. This STG barrel from APEX is not going to cut the baloney. I still need a shout out on where this hidden screw is too revmove the stock. Is it under the mag latch, inside lower?

**LaConservationist** · February 12, 2011, 09:24

Quote:

Originally posted by BrooklynBeer
I still need a shout out on where this hidden screw is too revmove the stock. Is it under the mag latch, inside lower?

BnB, Maybe this will help ya out....

**msnyder** · February 12, 2011, 09:31

Quote:

Yes i was over there looking at them myself. I am about as Cherry to an FAL build as one can be. I do like the look of the G1 brake but it doesn't have to be. I just want my first build to be entirely reliable and fully fuctional. This STG barrel from APEX is not going to cut the baloney. I still need a shout out on where this hidden screw is too revmove the stock. Is it under the mag latch, inside lower?

The G1 flash hider seems a novel idea at first but it tends to loosen up with use and causes accuracy problems. The screw on hiders don't have this problem. You can use any hider or muzzle brake (except the long Stoll) that is threaded 9/16 X 24 LH. The OD of the barrel is too thick for a long Stoll to slide onto. It can be turned down by a smith if that is the look you want. The Argy barrels are new old stock (NOS) and are very accurate. I have shot groups at just under 2" at 100 yds with them. The only barrel that I would prefer over an Argy, for accuracy, is the STG-58 which are getting harder and harder to find.

There is no hidden screw on your stock. Once you have launched the recoil spring across the room the only thing holding that stock on is a tang screw
one the bottom front. Once the tang screw is out it may still take quite a bit of effort to get the stock off the recoil tube but it will come off eventually. Sometimes I can just pull real hard, sometimes I get it started by very gently prying between the receiver and the stock or tapping the front of the receiver with a hammer and large punch being careful not to mar the stock or the receiver in the process.

BrooklynBeer · February 12, 2011, 09:32

Thank you. This explains alot. I have been told that in order too access the last stock screw I need the special tool or a very long screwdriver. The screwdriver I have. But I can't seem to find it going in thru the rear of the stock. Just which hole is it in?

I have the gas system pieced right but is that set screw in the plug supposed to be removed in order to put in the plug?

one hand clapping · February 12, 2011, 11:18

Plugas in gas plug? you don't have to mess with that. If you are instead refering to the screw that hold the but stock ,no the tube nut goes on by itself first.
The "tang screw " you need to remove is on the bottom of the stock behind the trigger guard. nothing else holding it if the springs are out [and somebody didn't secretly wecsog it]

Good luck and welcome

One hand clapping

DJ60 · February 12, 2011, 12:09

Even with all screws removed it was really tough to remove the stock. A lot of lube and a little gentle coaxing and it finally worked free. Seems like maybe the wood swelled against the spring tube and it was really on there tight.

BrooklynBeer · February 12, 2011, 12:34

Being I had never removed one before I wasn't 100% sure. So I took a rubber mallet and starting whacking on the lower side to side. As soon as it started to move a nice little chip decided to flake off at the trip ring, lower corner, I doubt this stock had ever been off judging by it. The amount of rags crammed in the rear tube took a good hour to get out too. So now I have an almost bare lower. Is there were that special take down tool comes into effect in order to break down the latch assembly? Hopefully my books get here today. I ordered the GunPlumber book from GunThings and a standard manual.. Now was the G1 blued or painted? Most spots on this lower look to be blued.

**Buddymack** · February 12, 2011, 19:58

When I remove a stubborn stock I turn the butt slightly back and forth whilst pulling the stock and it gradually comes off.

February 11, 2011, 21:48	#1
BrooklynBeer Registered FALaholic #: 34929 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 78	APEX G 1 kit. OK, this is my first FAL, not my first build. I have a book on the way but until then I have a question. How does one go about removing the butt plate ? I started loosing the screw in back and after 3/8 an ich it just spins. Won't back out any further. Before I go shooting a spring across the room someone please tell me what step I am missing here.?

February 11, 2011, 22:17	#4
kev Curio & Relic Contributor FALaholic #: 71 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Indiana and various others Posts: 3,777	Yeah, they'll emerge with gusto. Run a cleaning rod into the hole before cutting them loose so you have some control. Luring them back into their nest is the tricky part. __________________ Gun control is not about guns; it's about control. RUE?

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February 11, 2011, 22:02	#2
msnyder Curio & Relic Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 1085 Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Mexico Posts: 2,814	The screw in the middle of the metal buttplate screws into the recoil tube nut. The recoil tube nut fastens the buttstock onto the lower by screwing into the recoil tube. The recoil tube is screwed into the lower. There is a schematic on DSA's website if that helps. Try gently prying the bolt the rest of the way out. May have some rust. The recoil spring won't come flying out unless you unscrew the recoil tube nut that the buttplate screw is threaded into.

February 11, 2011, 22:05	#3
BrooklynBeer Registered FALaholic #: 34929 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 78	Thank you! So I guess if I go to unscrewing the nut under the plate I will have a can of slinkys coming out ? I want to get started on the wood and cleaning

February 11, 2011, 22:19	#5
DJ60 Registered FALaholic #: 62742 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 71	BB, any problems with the kit? I got one from them and got 2 of the same bipod leg. Other than that it was good. Bummer is that I have to replace a lot of good parts thanks to the ATF.

February 11, 2011, 22:21	#6
BrooklynBeer Registered FALaholic #: 34929 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 78	Evidently the nut that held the recoil in place was either turning while I worked out the plate screw or it was never screwed in all the way from another time because after 1/2 turn it decided to leave the butt at a high rate of speed and end up in the kitchen. Where the nut went went is anyones guess ! Now I feel better because sooner or later something like this has to happen when screwing around with a weapon I basically am a cherry with. Now to get the stock off. Anyone got a spare recoil tube nut?

February 11, 2011, 22:26	#7
BrooklynBeer Registered FALaholic #: 34929 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 78	I am still going over parts because I have never seen a FAL apart before. Grew bored with AK's and my RPD stuff won't be ready for a month + so I figured what the hey. I am already hooked by the feel of it. Everything looks used is all. Nothing I am not used too. I did also get one of the STG barrels and that will be going back. I'll be damned if I can see more then a hint of rifling left in it. They have the 60 dollar barrels but after seeing this one I don't know. What would be a good change out for the G1 needing a bi-pod cut?

February 11, 2011, 23:14	#8
FUUN063 Computer Illiterate Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 35576 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Converse, Indiana Posts: 4,581	Hey, Gary we need the pic of spring face boy! Leland

February 12, 2011, 08:50	#10
DJ60 Registered FALaholic #: 62742 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 71	I have a new Argie barrel on order from Sarco--$189.95 and 2-3 weeks lead time. Threaded muzzle is different from G1 but apparently correctable. For mine I'm going to screw on a Zero Climb muzzle brake anyway.

February 12, 2011, 09:00	#11
BrooklynBeer Registered FALaholic #: 34929 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 78	Yes i was over there looking at them myself. I am about as Cherry to an FAL build as one can be. I do like the look of the G1 brake but it doesn't have to be. I just want my first build to be entirely reliable and fully fuctional. This STG barrel from APEX is not going to cut the baloney. I still need a shout out on where this hidden screw is too revmove the stock. Is it under the mag latch, inside lower?

February 12, 2011, 09:32	#14
BrooklynBeer Registered FALaholic #: 34929 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 78	Thank you. This explains alot. I have been told that in order too access the last stock screw I need the special tool or a very long screwdriver. The screwdriver I have. But I can't seem to find it going in thru the rear of the stock. Just which hole is it in? I have the gas system pieced right but is that set screw in the plug supposed to be removed in order to put in the plug?

February 12, 2011, 11:18	#15
one hand clapping Registered FALaholic #: 35299 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: WV mountains Posts: 3,967	Plugas in gas plug? you don't have to mess with that. If you are instead refering to the screw that hold the but stock ,no the tube nut goes on by itself first. The "tang screw " you need to remove is on the bottom of the stock behind the trigger guard. nothing else holding it if the springs are out [and somebody didn't secretly wecsog it] Good luck and welcome One hand clapping

February 12, 2011, 12:09	#16
DJ60 Registered FALaholic #: 62742 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 71	Even with all screws removed it was really tough to remove the stock. A lot of lube and a little gentle coaxing and it finally worked free. Seems like maybe the wood swelled against the spring tube and it was really on there tight.

February 12, 2011, 12:34	#17
BrooklynBeer Registered FALaholic #: 34929 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 78	Being I had never removed one before I wasn't 100% sure. So I took a rubber mallet and starting whacking on the lower side to side. As soon as it started to move a nice little chip decided to flake off at the trip ring, lower corner, I doubt this stock had ever been off judging by it. The amount of rags crammed in the rear tube took a good hour to get out too. So now I have an almost bare lower. Is there were that special take down tool comes into effect in order to break down the latch assembly? Hopefully my books get here today. I ordered the GunPlumber book from GunThings and a standard manual.. Now was the G1 blued or painted? Most spots on this lower look to be blued.

February 12, 2011, 19:58	#18
Buddymack Member Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 62154 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Ariel WA Posts: 313	When I remove a stubborn stock I turn the butt slightly back and forth whilst pulling the stock and it gradually comes off.