time my flash hider to my argy

tuncas · October 28, 2010, 13:34

I got a DSA Belgian flash hider and am ready to install on my argy barrel. Question is how do I time it? I assume the notch goes at the 6 O clock position, but when fully screwed on it ends up around 11:30. Am I supposed to use some kind of indexing washer? I was gonna just lock-tite it short of fully screwed on at the 6 o clock position, but the thread fit is a bit sloppy and I am afraid I will not get it perfectly concentric and maybe affect accuracy?

What should I do?

tuncas · October 28, 2010, 13:37

Forgot to mention that I found a tip on the internet to wrap a paperclip around a spent casing and form my own washer. I tried this and it sucked. I do not recomend it. Not only did it still leave my FH clocked wrong, when I tried to take it off to remove the paperclip piece, it grabbed int the threads and was a nightmare to remove. I thought I was destroying my barrel threads but luckily it came out alright.

MO-FAL · October 28, 2010, 13:52

As far as the paper clip is concerned, a paper clip is a very soft metal like material, barrel steel is a bit tougher.

**J. Armstrong** · October 28, 2010, 14:20

The paper clip trick has worked very well for me, but you must make the "washer" large enough to be a press fit into the FH - this prevents it from fouling the barrel threads. Also, the ends should not overlap.

You want to pick a size ( wire diameter ) clip that just snugs up a bit before 6 oclock. You ain't gonna get 180+ degrees of "squish"

Loctite is, IMHO, a bad idea. Depending on the type, it will either loosen with barrel heat or not come off at all. Loctite is a handy tool, but improperly used it is the mark of a duffer. Again, JMHO

**DakTo** · October 28, 2010, 14:49

Let's see, facing the front of the barrel and the flash hider is left hand thread and the current tightened postion is 11:30 and so you will need to advance left to 6:00? Is that correct?

tuncas · October 28, 2010, 15:14

That is correct. I did the paperclip method just as you described. And as far as lock tite goes, I was gonna use red and I have no plans of removing it later.

**J. Armstrong** · October 28, 2010, 17:20

Quote:

Originally posted by tuncas
I have no plans of removing it later.

Ah, but the best laid plans...............

BTW, soft copper wire works well, too.

Tat2 · October 28, 2010, 21:01

Do they make a FAL peel washer? Sorry just an AR guy answer....

T

tuncas · October 29, 2010, 09:44

thats what I was hoping to hear. a peel washer would be good

brownknees · October 29, 2010, 11:53

We made washers for this from a piece trimmed off of a Coleman stove's windshield (sheet aluminum)at the Gunner Pool camp out last year. It's so soft you can do the whole thing with a Leatherman tool! You can use as many layers as you need (within reason) to re-time the threads.

You trim the outside diameter to just fit into the rear recess of the F/H & bore the center (or most of it) out with knife tips/screwdriver blades til it is as flush as possible to the ID of the bore.

Then you fire one round through it to finish the process & make a lock tab on the alloy.

Ask One Hand Clapping how well hers is holding up a year down the road.

**DakTo** · October 29, 2010, 12:22

What I have done since it was a left hand counter-clockwise thread, is to go the shorter distance between 11:30 and 6:00 by removing a little of the barrel muzzle in front of the threads versus going clockwise and using a washer. I like to get as much of the barrel thread under the flash hider as possible.
This type of application is good when you only have a quarter turn or so to properly align the flash hider.

Indexing washers are not normally used on metric FALs and usually the flash hider can be torque the last quarter turn.

October 28, 2010, 13:34	#1
tuncas Registered FALaholic #: 56454 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Escondido, CA Posts: 14	time my flash hider to my argy I got a DSA Belgian flash hider and am ready to install on my argy barrel. Question is how do I time it? I assume the notch goes at the 6 O clock position, but when fully screwed on it ends up around 11:30. Am I supposed to use some kind of indexing washer? I was gonna just lock-tite it short of fully screwed on at the 6 o clock position, but the thread fit is a bit sloppy and I am afraid I will not get it perfectly concentric and maybe affect accuracy? What should I do?

October 28, 2010, 14:20	#4
J. Armstrong Minister of Amusement Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 13629 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: SE Pa Posts: 8,491	The paper clip trick has worked very well for me, but you must make the "washer" large enough to be a press fit into the FH - this prevents it from fouling the barrel threads. Also, the ends should not overlap. You want to pick a size ( wire diameter ) clip that just snugs up a bit before 6 oclock. You ain't gonna get 180+ degrees of "squish" Loctite is, IMHO, a bad idea. Depending on the type, it will either loosen with barrel heat or not come off at all. Loctite is a handy tool, but improperly used it is the mark of a duffer. Again, JMHO __________________ "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools" Herbert Spenser "A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." Sigmund Freud Last edited by J. Armstrong; October 28, 2010 at 14:28.

October 28, 2010, 14:49	#5
DakTo MadMinuteDude Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 9689 Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: The Constitution State Posts: 5,424	Let's see, facing the front of the barrel and the flash hider is left hand thread and the current tightened postion is 11:30 and so you will need to advance left to 6:00? Is that correct? __________________ Never Take A Pistol To A Gun Fight!

October 29, 2010, 12:22	#11
DakTo MadMinuteDude Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 9689 Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: The Constitution State Posts: 5,424	What I have done since it was a left hand counter-clockwise thread, is to go the shorter distance between 11:30 and 6:00 by removing a little of the barrel muzzle in front of the threads versus going clockwise and using a washer. I like to get as much of the barrel thread under the flash hider as possible. This type of application is good when you only have a quarter turn or so to properly align the flash hider. Indexing washers are not normally used on metric FALs and usually the flash hider can be torque the last quarter turn. __________________ Never Take A Pistol To A Gun Fight! Last edited by DakTo; October 29, 2010 at 12:30.

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October 28, 2010, 13:37	#2
tuncas Registered FALaholic #: 56454 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Escondido, CA Posts: 14	Forgot to mention that I found a tip on the internet to wrap a paperclip around a spent casing and form my own washer. I tried this and it sucked. I do not recomend it. Not only did it still leave my FH clocked wrong, when I tried to take it off to remove the paperclip piece, it grabbed int the threads and was a nightmare to remove. I thought I was destroying my barrel threads but luckily it came out alright.

October 28, 2010, 13:52	#3
MO-FAL Registered FALaholic #: 54754 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cuba, MO Posts: 121	As far as the paper clip is concerned, a paper clip is a very soft metal like material, barrel steel is a bit tougher.

October 28, 2010, 15:14	#6
tuncas Registered FALaholic #: 56454 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Escondido, CA Posts: 14	That is correct. I did the paperclip method just as you described. And as far as lock tite goes, I was gonna use red and I have no plans of removing it later.

October 28, 2010, 21:01	#8
Tat2 Registered FALaholic #: 52329 Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 908	Do they make a FAL peel washer? Sorry just an AR guy answer.... T

October 29, 2010, 09:44	#9
tuncas Registered FALaholic #: 56454 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Escondido, CA Posts: 14	thats what I was hoping to hear. a peel washer would be good

October 29, 2010, 11:53	#10
brownknees Registered FALaholic #: 14917 Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: mid atlantic Posts: 12,015	We made washers for this from a piece trimmed off of a Coleman stove's windshield (sheet aluminum)at the Gunner Pool camp out last year. It's so soft you can do the whole thing with a Leatherman tool! You can use as many layers as you need (within reason) to re-time the threads. You trim the outside diameter to just fit into the rear recess of the F/H & bore the center (or most of it) out with knife tips/screwdriver blades til it is as flush as possible to the ID of the bore. Then you fire one round through it to finish the process & make a lock tab on the alloy. Ask One Hand Clapping how well hers is holding up a year down the road.