refinishing a plastic stock

swiftone · October 21, 2010, 16:27

What is the best way to remove scratches and refinish a plastic stock? I have a SA long butt stock with no paint that I would like to restore but keep looking original.

rpk74dr · October 21, 2010, 17:32

various grit wet/dry sand paper and soapy water.sand in the same manner as you would a car.work your way up to the finest grit until scratches are removed.you will end up with a matte finish but if you want to give it some sheen plastic polish from the auto store and a buffing wheel.

nwobhm · October 21, 2010, 18:09

Krylon Fusion is an amazing product. Sand, clean, spray, the more coats the better it looks. I have done 10ish coats and then allow for 7 days curing time. Looks new. Use steel wool in between coats. It's a long drawn out process.

jeffrey · October 21, 2010, 20:09

I like the matte look, so I have been sand blasting them. You can soak them with Armour All to darken them up.

Besides the gloss finish on a lot of them - especially Imbels, I hate the mold seams. I like to scrape them smooth and then work them over with sand paper then the sand blaster. Most US made furniture are really bad for mold seams.

swiftone · October 21, 2010, 21:46

Thanks all - sounds like a labor of love (like all things FN related) I'll get to work.

powermad · October 23, 2010, 03:53

Redoing plastic stocks is pretty easy.
I start with a red scotchbrite pad and scuff it down with soapy water.
When it's dry the high spots will stand out like a sore dick and I knock them down with some 240.
Once it's all smoothed out with the 240 I follow up with 320.
Then stick it in the blast cabinet and let er rip.
Don't get to close and keep the gun moving to get a good finish.

When done like that you will have to treat it or it starts to look like crap pretty fast.

I just use CLP spray on a rag when I am wiping down the gun and call it good.

I did get a plastic polishing kit from the Cornwell guy for $30 a few months ago that I still haven't gotten around to doing much with other than buffing out one headlight.
Maybe I'll do that after I get done with the SA para lower that I have been rubbing on forever.
I'm almost ready for 320 with that.

For plastic, work up to 2000 and hit it with compound and a slow wheel.

**Hebrew Battle Rifle** · October 24, 2010, 11:31

Quote:

Originally posted by nwobhm
Krylon Fusion is an amazing product. Sand, clean, spray, the more coats the better it looks. I have done 10ish coats and then allow for 7 days curing time. Looks new. Use steel wool in between coats. It's a long drawn out process.

Ditto

muttman · October 24, 2010, 12:20

Quote:

Originally posted by nwobhm
Krylon Fusion is an amazing product. Sand, clean, spray, the more coats the better it looks. I have done 10ish coats and then allow for 7 days curing time. Looks new. Use steel wool in between coats. It's a long drawn out process.

1+ muttman

**Tankdriver** · October 24, 2010, 13:40

This is what I use. I found it when I rode a motorcycle all the time. I used it on the windshield of my Vetter fairing. Also works great on headlights.

http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-P.../dp/B0000WUC7E

October 21, 2010, 16:27	#1
swiftone Registered FALaholic #: 53774 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: California Posts: 165	refinishing a plastic stock What is the best way to remove scratches and refinish a plastic stock? I have a SA long butt stock with no paint that I would like to restore but keep looking original.

October 24, 2010, 13:40	#9
Tankdriver Senior Member Contributor FALaholic #: 13912 Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 896	This is what I use. I found it when I rode a motorcycle all the time. I used it on the windshield of my Vetter fairing. Also works great on headlights. http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-P.../dp/B0000WUC7E __________________ NRA Endowment Member......President West TN Military Vehicle Collectors......MVPA Member

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October 21, 2010, 17:32	#2
rpk74dr Registered FALaholic #: 7901 Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Central Florida Posts: 890	various grit wet/dry sand paper and soapy water.sand in the same manner as you would a car.work your way up to the finest grit until scratches are removed.you will end up with a matte finish but if you want to give it some sheen plastic polish from the auto store and a buffing wheel.

October 21, 2010, 18:09	#3
nwobhm ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ FALaholic #: 9580 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 5,907	Krylon Fusion is an amazing product. Sand, clean, spray, the more coats the better it looks. I have done 10ish coats and then allow for 7 days curing time. Looks new. Use steel wool in between coats. It's a long drawn out process.

October 21, 2010, 20:09	#4
jeffrey Registered FALaholic #: 2073 Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Illinois Posts: 1,642	I like the matte look, so I have been sand blasting them. You can soak them with Armour All to darken them up. Besides the gloss finish on a lot of them - especially Imbels, I hate the mold seams. I like to scrape them smooth and then work them over with sand paper then the sand blaster. Most US made furniture are really bad for mold seams.

October 21, 2010, 21:46	#5
swiftone Registered FALaholic #: 53774 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: California Posts: 165	Thanks all - sounds like a labor of love (like all things FN related) I'll get to work.

October 23, 2010, 03:53	#6
powermad Registered FALaholic #: 21150 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,216	Redoing plastic stocks is pretty easy. I start with a red scotchbrite pad and scuff it down with soapy water. When it's dry the high spots will stand out like a sore dick and I knock them down with some 240. Once it's all smoothed out with the 240 I follow up with 320. Then stick it in the blast cabinet and let er rip. Don't get to close and keep the gun moving to get a good finish. When done like that you will have to treat it or it starts to look like crap pretty fast. I just use CLP spray on a rag when I am wiping down the gun and call it good. I did get a plastic polishing kit from the Cornwell guy for $30 a few months ago that I still haven't gotten around to doing much with other than buffing out one headlight. Maybe I'll do that after I get done with the SA para lower that I have been rubbing on forever. I'm almost ready for 320 with that. For plastic, work up to 2000 and hit it with compound and a slow wheel.