ideas for degreasing oil soaked stock?

[NC Rifleman]

I've got a Beech L1A1 stock that I'd really wanted to salvage. When I got it it looked like it had been stored at the bottom of a drum of motor oil. I used up most of a quart of acetone wiping it down over a week or so. The next morning it would be wet all over with oil again. Moved on to giving it baths of "purple stuff" degreaser and rinsing in hot water over several days until the wood started getting cracks in it. Helped some but still had streaks of oil oozing back out. I recently soaked it for 5 days in an ammo can filled with mineral spirits and then 5 days soaking in laquer thinner. I pulled it out to dry today and now it still has big streaks and spots of oil coming back out. Anyone have any other suggestions to try before I stick it in the wood stove? Thanks

[ActionYobbo]

stick it in the dishwasher

[W.E.G.]

+1 Dishwasher

remove before drying cycle

[NC Rifleman]

Yeah I thought about the dishwasher deal, read that while searching old posts. I just thought if this thing is still so oil soaked it wouldn't do much but I may have to try it.

[easttex]

Originally posted by W.E.G.
+1 Dishwasher

remove before drying cycle

I've always used dish soap and hot water to degrease milsurp stocks.

Whatever you do, just understand that you'll probably never get all the grease out of the wood. After you've washed it, apply a few coats of polymerized tung oil or Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil for a good durable finish that'll seal everything else in.

[torquemada055]

I always used E Z Off oven cleaner and let it hang out side overnight, a couple of times of that and then washed it in hot soapy water and let hang out overnight to dry.
Then a light sanding to clean up the rough spots and a good sealant coat of whatever strikes your fancy.
Mine was normally tung oil as I like a duller finish and no shine.

[Douglas S Graham]

Boil in hot water. Repeat as necessary.

[onebigelf]

It took time to soak the oil in, it'll take time to get it out. It will come out though, there isn't an endless supply in there. I have used Easy-Off followed by repeated Hot Water and DAWN dish soap baths with good results. Patience is a virtue.

John

[Survey Punk]

Poultice of denatured alcohol and calcium carbonate (chalk). Slather on thick and set it in the sun on some newspaper. I've used the dash of my truck for more heat.
Wash off the goop with hot water and a soft brush that accumulates on the surface. Repeat as necessary.

JB

[Rotor]

Yep you gotta sweat it out. The paste mentioned above will work if you keep at it. You may want to use the the paste in a 100 degree oven to see if that speeds it up. ( don't put it in until the alcohol has evaporated). This will still take time.

At a certain point you you can punt and use a "spit coat" of shellac to seal the pores.

Once you are sick of trying to remove every drop of oil, get the surface as clean and dry as you can. Shoot the stock with shellac. Let it dry completely. The pores and wood surface will now be sealed with shellac. The next day lightly sand with 120 or higher grit to take the shellac off the surface while still leaving the pores plugged. This stops the oil's ability to migrate out of the stock. It also gives you some surface area to apply a more appropriate wood finish, be it Tung or BLO. You will have the oil trapped and the surface looking nice.

JR

[scattergun]

Get one of those aluminum turkey cooking pans and a gallon of Acetone from the hardware store paint department. Put the buttstock in the pan and pour enough acetone to just cover it. Cover the whole thing with aluminum foil to slow the acetone from evaporating. Turn it over or slosh it around every couple of hours. DO THIS OUTSIDE. About a day later the acetone will be the color of dark beer, and the stock will be de-oiled.

[Douglas S Graham]

Lewis,
I disagree. The boiling water trick is ok if you don't let it sit in there forever. I boil them for about 15 minutes max, let 'em cool down. Repeat the next day. I have done quite a few like this, and with great results. Also raises the grain for easier removal of dents , etc. To each his own. And yes, I DO know about wood and the consequences of water on it. Best regards. DSG

[akajun]

Low heat, and many days of it. You can put it in the oven at 150 to 200 on some aluminum foil, wipe every hour, however it will take days to get it all out. You can also make a cosmo oven( you can also use it to bake duracoat) out of two metal trash cans and a lightbulb.

Like this,
http://surplusrifleforum.com/viewtop...=27160&start=0

The moderator of that forum, candyman, is a master, and personal friend of mine. He only uses low heat to remove oil and cosmo. No oven cleaner, whiting, chemicals, dishwasher, etc.

[skeeterbay]

I use oven cleaner on the bad ones. That includes the Mauser laminate stocks. I only leave it on about 15 minutes or so. Then rinse and wipe dry as much as possible. Then I allow it to dry at room temp for several days.


Skeeter!

[L1A1rocker]

Originally posted by Douglas S Graham
Boil in hot water. Repeat as necessary.

+1. I've done this with lots of success.

[Led]

I use the oven method with no chemicals. The old electric range in my shop works great. Remember it's just like BBQ, low and slow.

Later,
Stephen

[2barearms]

Anyone ever use Simple Green on a stock, it works for lots of other
stuff like caked and dried Cosmoline.

[idsubgun]

Go down to post #11 to read how I soaked the oil out of an old Turkish Mauser stock.

Link to thread about Turk Mauser

[fal fiend]

Dawn soap & hot water, also works on bowling balls.