Me FAL has a epoxied Break on it

Don7699 · February 23, 2009, 18:16

Right.. Well here goes then.

Me rifle Sarah has a bugger on her barrel from the previous owner. She is all L1A1 on an inch cut IMBEL Receiver put together by the Century folks. Thank goodness by the good lads of Canada.

Takes Metric Mags.

By bugger, I dont mean booger; the bugger is one of those after market muzzle breaks with 4 point allen head screws. I got the allen head screws out, OK yet the Muzzle Break is epoxied on with something looks like JB Weld.

Only thing I know to do is cut off the end of the barrel, Sarah will still have a good 20 inch barrel left on her.

JB Weld is strong stuff but I dont think I want it as a mainstay holding on a muzzle break with 4 allen screws.

Since my Sarah is an inch FAL through and through including the front and rear sights and trigger group; I thought I would write about her here and invite comment.

Get this lads... she has a wood grip, long wood handles and a sleek wood shoulder too.

Don

**L1A1Johnno** · February 23, 2009, 18:25

If you want her to expose her muzzle heat up the desired area and break the bond
Dont want to comment any further as it could become derogitory to Sarah

Translation: epoxy 2 pack glues will not hold up under heat. If you dont care about the flash hider heat up the hider and let the heat run into the barrel 500 to 600 degrees F should cause that crap to disentergrate and not harm her leg-- I mean barrel

Hope this helps

Johnno

Don7699 · February 23, 2009, 18:57

Thanks Johnno

I will give the heat a try.

Never thought of it. I know it is not silver solder because I can just see the epoxy below the lip of the break and I was able to stick it with a sharp instrument.

Knowing I could not use heat because it was not solder........ I guess brought me to overlook the fact I might be able to just soften the epoxy.

I appreciate it. I am a disabled vet and I need help sometimes to think things through, I survived gangrene that went sepsis into my bloodstream.. I do OK I just need a kick sometimes to think things through. Appreciate it.

Don

**L1A1Johnno** · February 23, 2009, 21:51

Just keep the heat on the old bugger and keep trying to twist the bugger off while heating it up. Should be "no problem mate"

Happy debuggering

Regards

Johnno

one hand clapping · February 24, 2009, 09:47

I have a century inch on hesse and aquired a aussie flash hider to put on. I see no pins / sodder etc. Please let us know your progress and what you find under there. It will sure help me be brave and do like wise.
One Hand Clapping

**xtremerange** · February 24, 2009, 11:03

Use Murphy's law - put a 100 rounds downrange in about 5 minutes. The muzzle brake will come flying off.

Of course then Murphy's law may impact Murphy's law and the muzzle brake would never come off no matter how much abuse is put to it.

ggiilliiee · February 24, 2009, 11:11

if ya dont want to heat it ...maybe try some refill butane ...freeze it JB will probably shatter under a turning load ....shattered ....couldnt give it away on 7th avenue ...tattered ....hehe

**MAINER** · February 24, 2009, 16:15

Quote:

Originally posted by one hand clapping
I have a century inch on hesse and aquired a aussie flash hider to put on. I see no pins / sodder etc. Please let us know your progress and what you find under there. It will sure help me be brave and do like wise.
One Hand Clapping

I'm sure Century used various methods of attaching breaks, but with Inch barrels they usually put a spot of weld on the underside at the rear of the break. About 3/4" forward of this they drilled and installed a pin into the barrel slot. You can detect the pin by polishing or removing the finish of the break in that area.
That's the method they used to mulitilate mine, yours may be different. Worth a look.

gunnut1 · February 24, 2009, 17:17

Any Century L1A1 barrel I have ever seen has had the threads cut off and nothing attached. Is there a short slot under the muzzle?

If the barrel doesn't have an attached muzzle thingy then it will
have to be re-threaded.

kmurphy · February 24, 2009, 21:58

Quote:

Originally posted by xtremerange
Use Murphy's law - put a 100 rounds downrange in about 5 minutes. The muzzle brake will come flying off.

Of course then Murphy's law may impact Murphy's law and the muzzle brake would never come off no matter how much abuse is put to it.

I live Muphy's law...literally

Rusty O'Toole · February 25, 2009, 13:18

All of these replies are reasonable except the part about sending rounds down range.
Do the simple things, first. If a little heat works, that's great. After you get the muzzle devise off, you will have threads with JB on them or no threads at all. If the threads are still there, clean the rest of the stuff off with a wire brush and paint thinner. If the threads are gone, then other things need to be done.

I bought a Century Arms Sporter FAL a couple of months ago. Its mostly Brit stuff on top, Aussie stuff on bottom, with an Imbel receiver in the middle.
The threads were cut off the barrel with a sawsall or equivalent equipment.
It certainly left a ugly muzzle.
Did Century do this and why??
In all other respects, the rifle is well made with what appears to be a new barrel.

HawaiiFALer · February 28, 2009, 02:34

Quote:

Originally posted by Don7699
... By bugger, I dont mean booger; the bugger is one of those after market muzzle breaks with 4 point allen head screws. I got the allen head screws out, OK yet the Muzzle Break is epoxied on with something looks like JB Weld. ...
Don

Have someone help you by applying a little pressure on the muzzle brake with a wrench or screwdriver thru the brake holes. Then apply heat from a propane torch. It will turn as soon as the epoxy begins to melt, which is not much heat. Metal will not heat to red. Epoxy will clean up with acetone.

Don7699 · February 28, 2009, 12:12

Got the bugger off then..

Had to use a propane torch..... I knew it was workin when the epoxy was poppin and I smelled the epoxy

Skewered the muzzle break with a trusty Craftsman screwdriver through the holes as suggested and twisted and pulled and yanked.

The bugger broke loose.. yet it was battle on as I had to thrust with more fire and skewer the gnarly beast to break it completely free from the barrel of me trusty FAL.

Finally... there she lay her barrel all naked now free from the gnarly glued on muzzle break placed upon her by some hack before.

The barrel end has been crowned, imagine that..

The muzzle has no threads... however there is a small key way machined at the 6:00 position of the muzzle.??

I can see where it looks like there have been several probable silver solder spots before.

I can clean this up, use acetone. See how it shoots .

Glad I got that Coffe Can off the barrel.

Don

gunnut1 · February 28, 2009, 13:26

Quote:

The muzzle has no threads... however there is a small key way machined at the 6:00 position of the muzzle.??

This is typical of the way Century sent them out of the door. The threads have been cut off and the slot you see is the remnant of the "keeper/locator" washer slot for the Brit L1A1 flash hider. In order to restore it to all of it's natural beauty, you will need to re-slot the barrel and re-thread it. Re-thread first, slot after you have the Brit muzzle thingy in hand.

Good luck!

Ron Walker · February 28, 2009, 14:08

yet it was battle on as I had to thrust with more fire and skewer the gnarly beast to break it completely free from the barrel of me trusty FAL. Finally... there she lay her barrel all naked now free from the gnarly glued on muzzle break placed upon her by some hack before

Ah, a tale and a quest worthy of Beowulf or Sir Galahad!! I admire your prose and congatulate you on your victory. Now the real work begins. I wish you good luck and Godspeed! (This is the Commonwealth page, is it not?) Ron

tfillen · February 28, 2009, 14:28

Gunnut 1 is right. The slot is part of the original L1A1 configuration. My Century FAL was the same way.
After squaring the muzzle as best I could with a file, I used a 90 degree crowing tool to get things just right. I got one of the altered L1A1 muzzle devices from e-gunparts, the one with a set screw through the bayonet lug.
After machining the insides a little deeper, it fit snuggly on my unthreaded barrel and the set screw was not at the very end of the barrel.
With a sharp knife, I marked the opening of the keeper device. I took the muzzle device off of the barrel and cut a new slot were I had marked it.
With the muzzle device installed, the set screw tight, and a keeper and pin installed, it is as tight as a tick. I just didn't want to rethread the muzzle.
This may be an option for you in order to get a muzzle device installed without threads or JB Weld.

Don7699 · February 28, 2009, 14:58

Quote:

Originally posted by Ron Walker

Ah, a tale and a quest worthy of Beowulf or Sir Galahad!! I admire your prose and congatulate you on your victory. Now the real work begins. I wish you good luck and Godspeed! (This is the Commonwealth page, is it not?) Ron

Thank You Sir Ron, I believe you are right indeed.. this is the Commonwealth page... no harm for a bit of prose to spark entertain.

Godspeed to You and God Save the Queen

Don

1stSgt USAF ret

Don7699 · February 28, 2009, 15:06

Quote:

Originally posted by tfillen
Gunnut 1 is right. The slot is part of the original L1A1 configuration. My Century FAL was the same way.
After squaring the muzzle as best I could with a file, I used a 90 degree crowing tool to get things just right. I got one of the altered L1A1 muzzle devices from e-gunparts, the one with a set screw through the bayonet lug.
After machining the insides a little deeper, it fit snuggly on my unthreaded barrel and the set screw was not at the very end of the barrel.
With a sharp knife, I marked the opening of the keeper device. I took the muzzle device off of the barrel and cut a new slot were I had marked it.
With the muzzle device installed, the set screw tight, and a keeper and pin installed, it is as tight as a tick. I just didn't want to rethread the muzzle.
This may be an option for you in order to get a muzzle device installed without threads or JB Weld.

Many thanks to the both of you for the info.
After I clean her up and see how she shoots I may do a target crown on the muzzle.

On my way to e-gunparts now to see what they have.

Don

February 23, 2009, 18:16	#1
Don7699 Registered FALaholic #: 41675 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GEORGIA Posts: 23	Me FAL has a epoxied Break on it Right.. Well here goes then. Me rifle Sarah has a bugger on her barrel from the previous owner. She is all L1A1 on an inch cut IMBEL Receiver put together by the Century folks. Thank goodness by the good lads of Canada. Takes Metric Mags. By bugger, I dont mean booger; the bugger is one of those after market muzzle breaks with 4 point allen head screws. I got the allen head screws out, OK yet the Muzzle Break is epoxied on with something looks like JB Weld. Only thing I know to do is cut off the end of the barrel, Sarah will still have a good 20 inch barrel left on her. JB Weld is strong stuff but I dont think I want it as a mainstay holding on a muzzle break with 4 allen screws. Since my Sarah is an inch FAL through and through including the front and rear sights and trigger group; I thought I would write about her here and invite comment. Get this lads... she has a wood grip, long wood handles and a sleek wood shoulder too. Don Last edited by Don7699; February 23, 2009 at 18:59.

February 23, 2009, 18:25	#2
L1A1Johnno Member Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 15133 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Gun Friendly Nevada Posts: 327	Turn the heat up on Sarah If you want her to expose her muzzle heat up the desired area and break the bond Dont want to comment any further as it could become derogitory to Sarah Translation: epoxy 2 pack glues will not hold up under heat. If you dont care about the flash hider heat up the hider and let the heat run into the barrel 500 to 600 degrees F should cause that crap to disentergrate and not harm her leg-- I mean barrel Hope this helps Johnno

February 23, 2009, 21:51	#4
L1A1Johnno Member Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 15133 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Gun Friendly Nevada Posts: 327	My pleasure to assist Just keep the heat on the old bugger and keep trying to twist the bugger off while heating it up. Should be "no problem mate" Happy debuggering Regards Johnno

February 24, 2009, 09:47	#5
one hand clapping Registered Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 35299 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: WV mountains Posts: 4,120	me too ? I have a century inch on hesse and aquired a aussie flash hider to put on. I see no pins / sodder etc. Please let us know your progress and what you find under there. It will sure help me be brave and do like wise. One Hand Clapping

February 24, 2009, 11:03	#6
xtremerange Curio & Relic Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 4305 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,366	Use Murphy's law - put a 100 rounds downrange in about 5 minutes. The muzzle brake will come flying off. Of course then Murphy's law may impact Murphy's law and the muzzle brake would never come off no matter how much abuse is put to it. __________________ --David Attorney General Holder, if any of the above post is unclear or you have a desire to discuss, please call or text me. I know you have my number.

February 23, 2009, 18:57	#3
Don7699 Registered FALaholic #: 41675 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GEORGIA Posts: 23	Thanks Johnno I will give the heat a try. Never thought of it. I know it is not silver solder because I can just see the epoxy below the lip of the break and I was able to stick it with a sharp instrument. Knowing I could not use heat because it was not solder........ I guess brought me to overlook the fact I might be able to just soften the epoxy. I appreciate it. I am a disabled vet and I need help sometimes to think things through, I survived gangrene that went sepsis into my bloodstream.. I do OK I just need a kick sometimes to think things through. Appreciate it. Don

February 24, 2009, 11:11	#7
ggiilliiee banned again FALaholic #: 17179 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: orygun Posts: 4,838	if ya dont want to heat it ...maybe try some refill butane ...freeze it JB will probably shatter under a turning load ....shattered ....couldnt give it away on 7th avenue ...tattered ....hehe

February 24, 2009, 17:17	#9
gunnut1 Moderator Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 1877 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: The great Republic of Texas USA!!!!! Posts: 10,449	Any Century L1A1 barrel I have ever seen has had the threads cut off and nothing attached. Is there a short slot under the muzzle? If the barrel doesn't have an attached muzzle thingy then it will have to be re-threaded. __________________ Texas, it's a state of mind!!!! The human race is not the pinnacle of evolution. We are but one evolutionary out come.

February 25, 2009, 13:18	#11
Rusty O'Toole Registered FALaholic #: 42540 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 11	All of these replies are reasonable except the part about sending rounds down range. Do the simple things, first. If a little heat works, that's great. After you get the muzzle devise off, you will have threads with JB on them or no threads at all. If the threads are still there, clean the rest of the stuff off with a wire brush and paint thinner. If the threads are gone, then other things need to be done. I bought a Century Arms Sporter FAL a couple of months ago. Its mostly Brit stuff on top, Aussie stuff on bottom, with an Imbel receiver in the middle. The threads were cut off the barrel with a sawsall or equivalent equipment. It certainly left a ugly muzzle. Did Century do this and why?? In all other respects, the rifle is well made with what appears to be a new barrel.

February 28, 2009, 12:12	#13
Don7699 Registered FALaholic #: 41675 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GEORGIA Posts: 23	Got the bugger off then.. Had to use a propane torch..... I knew it was workin when the epoxy was poppin and I smelled the epoxy Skewered the muzzle break with a trusty Craftsman screwdriver through the holes as suggested and twisted and pulled and yanked. The bugger broke loose.. yet it was battle on as I had to thrust with more fire and skewer the gnarly beast to break it completely free from the barrel of me trusty FAL. Finally... there she lay her barrel all naked now free from the gnarly glued on muzzle break placed upon her by some hack before. The barrel end has been crowned, imagine that.. The muzzle has no threads... however there is a small key way machined at the 6:00 position of the muzzle.?? I can see where it looks like there have been several probable silver solder spots before. I can clean this up, use acetone. See how it shoots . Glad I got that Coffe Can off the barrel. Don

February 28, 2009, 14:08	#15
Ron Walker Registered FALaholic #: 35607 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Mathis, Texas Posts: 1,338	yet it was battle on as I had to thrust with more fire and skewer the gnarly beast to break it completely free from the barrel of me trusty FAL. Finally... there she lay her barrel all naked now free from the gnarly glued on muzzle break placed upon her by some hack before Ah, a tale and a quest worthy of Beowulf or Sir Galahad!! I admire your prose and congatulate you on your victory. Now the real work begins. I wish you good luck and Godspeed! (This is the Commonwealth page, is it not?) Ron __________________ Skypilot Liber aut Mort!! "He's the man we've been taught to hate. He's the solitary American gun nut" Stephen Hunter - Point of Impact

February 28, 2009, 14:28	#16
tfillen Registered Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 41499 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Huntsville, Alabama Posts: 55	Gunnut 1 is right. The slot is part of the original L1A1 configuration. My Century FAL was the same way. After squaring the muzzle as best I could with a file, I used a 90 degree crowing tool to get things just right. I got one of the altered L1A1 muzzle devices from e-gunparts, the one with a set screw through the bayonet lug. After machining the insides a little deeper, it fit snuggly on my unthreaded barrel and the set screw was not at the very end of the barrel. With a sharp knife, I marked the opening of the keeper device. I took the muzzle device off of the barrel and cut a new slot were I had marked it. With the muzzle device installed, the set screw tight, and a keeper and pin installed, it is as tight as a tick. I just didn't want to rethread the muzzle. This may be an option for you in order to get a muzzle device installed without threads or JB Weld. __________________ "Among other evils which being unarmed brings you, it causes you to be despised." - Machiavelli

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