preferred stub removal, cut or just heave?

seez52 · August 02, 2008, 20:19

I've got a need receiver wrench, should I just bolt it up and turn it off? I was reading a web site that recommended cutting through most of the old stub at the charging handle location before trying to remove it.

I'm guess it's pretty stuck, I have not been able to budge the flash hider yet.

English Mike · August 02, 2008, 20:28

Cutting through the receiver stub can make its removal easier BUT you need to go careful.

The idea is to cut along from the charging handle slot using a Dremel or similar tool without buggering the barrel.
Cut slowly & stop the moment you see the slightest evidence of threads in the bottom of the cut, or even before.
Stick a chisel in the CH slot & whack it with a hammer - should open up the cut & free the barrel threads from the stub's death grip.

Repeat as necessary.

**W.E.G.** · August 02, 2008, 20:49

Cutting is a more reliable method for folks who are not set up to put some mondo-squeeze on the barrel.

I tried to turn one off, and rounded the barrel flats but good.
Never again.

Bust out the dremel, and take it slow and easy.

Cut it on both sides, but pop it on the charging handle side.
The cut on the opposite side will allow the stub to flex so it will open up
easier on the charging handle side.

seez52 · August 02, 2008, 22:51

Sounds like a plan, I may try it out tomorrow., Thanks

FALs&45s · August 03, 2008, 09:27

never did the opposite-side cut as recommended above but would've had i heard that before. still was no problem. i now have the proper clamping devices so it's a moot point for me.
here's a pic.

AndyC · August 03, 2008, 12:17

What the Dremel-cut looks like before splitting - you can just faintly see the barrel-threads inside the cut (dark vertical stripes):

**W.E.G.** · August 03, 2008, 14:06

That's an excellent pre-split pic!

Ron Walker · August 03, 2008, 14:19

"I have not been able to budge the flash hider yet"

If your kit is metric, remember it is a left hand thread which means it turns in the opposite direction the bbl screws in. Inch Pattern is RH thread for the FH.
Good Luck,
Ron

English Mike · August 03, 2008, 17:52

Attached for posterity

seez52 · August 03, 2008, 20:44

correct on the FH being LH. I've been afraid to put too much pressure. The wrench flats are too narrow for most of my wrenches. The only one I've got that fits close is a 3/4", and it's a bit sloppy. I really hate to get on it with a pipe wrench.

I may try some heat next.

Ron Walker · August 03, 2008, 20:58

I found a wrench that matched it's interior dimensions and ground the ears to fit inside the groove. I don't remember it's size(it's out in my shop) but it works well, and the longer the wrench handle the better. No job for a stubbie! You might try using a little heat to break it loose or soak a few hours with Liquid Wrench. Ron

**thedrickel** · August 03, 2008, 21:08

On the FH - heat, some penetrating oil, and a wrench that is ground down to fit the flats or a ratchet in the end of the hider will get it off.

**W.E.G.** · August 03, 2008, 22:27

Quote:

Originally posted by seez52
[BI'm guess it's pretty stuck, I have not been able to budge the flash hider yet. [/B]

Sumthin' gonna give.

11/16" wrench hammered onto the flats

Cheater-pipe over a breaker-bar

seez52 · August 03, 2008, 23:14

SUCCESS!!

I decided before trying to grind a groove, and since I did buy a bbl. vise from Rats I'd give it a try. On the first one the vise slipped just a bit so I cranked the vise bolts down a little more. It came on out of there.

I actually did both my kits, one was a little easier. I screwed the stub back on one of them to see where it hand tightens and it's not as much as everyone here recommends.

I also have been soaking the FH in penetrating oil. With a bit of a cheater bar both of them came off too--- woo whooo!

another question, on Century receivers is it usually the bbl. threads than need to be chased or the threads in the receiver? I thought maybe the finish on the receiver might be what's making it tight.

ratas calientes · August 03, 2008, 23:45

Quote:

Originally posted by seez52
SUCCESS!!

I decided before trying to grind a groove, and since I did buy a bbl. vise from Rats I'd give it a try. On the first one the vise slipped just a bit so I cranked the vise bolts down a little more. It came on out of there.
. . .

You da man!

How well did the new wrench design fit?

seez52 · August 04, 2008, 00:01

seemed to fit perfectly. I didn't notice any slip marks on the stub. I bolted it directly on, didn't use any tape.

Wasn't really sure how tight I should make it. Any thoughts on that? I probably turned it up fairly tight. Certainly past snug.

ce · August 04, 2008, 12:03

Load up the barrel threads with polishing compound and screw it back and forth into the receiver until it goes all the way.

I used diamond paste.

Diamond paste, always a girl's best friend when you want to go all the way.

seez52 · August 04, 2008, 12:21

I was thinking about that. It probably only goes in one turn or less.

I've got a whole set of clover compound of different grits.

I also thought about using my blast cabinet and some 80 grit alum oxide and shoot the receiver threads a little. What do you think about that?

ratas calientes · August 04, 2008, 13:03

Quote:

Originally posted by seez52
seemed to fit perfectly. I didn't notice any slip marks on the stub. I bolted it directly on, didn't use any tape.

Wasn't really sure how tight I should make it. Any thoughts on that? I probably turned it up fairly tight. Certainly past snug.

Firm as you can with a typical Allen wrench. They are 5/16 bolts, you won't break them.

seez52 · August 04, 2008, 13:20

I was using an allen wrench that's mounted on a socket, so I had a ratchet on it. I guess I was afraid I might have clamped the receiver too tightly.

AndyC · August 04, 2008, 13:37

Quote:

Originally posted by W.E.G.
That's an excellent pre-split pic!

Wow, praise from the master - thank you

ratas calientes · August 04, 2008, 20:47

Quote:

Originally posted by seez52
I was using an allen wrench that's mounted on a socket, so I had a ratchet on it. . . .

Most folks only have the little right-angle Allen wrenches, so they are fine. With your tools, you could go too tight. I don't have a spec, just tight enough so stuff doesn't slip around.

ThunderGod · August 04, 2008, 22:48

Andy was a stub-dremelin', "smooth operator", that day.

Demil'd a couple kits, built a few rifles....

Adding to the addiction, one time at a time.

August 02, 2008, 20:19	#1
seez52 Registered FALaholic #: 22661 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 99	preferred stub removal, cut or just heave? I've got a need receiver wrench, should I just bolt it up and turn it off? I was reading a web site that recommended cutting through most of the old stub at the charging handle location before trying to remove it. I'm guess it's pretty stuck, I have not been able to budge the flash hider yet.

August 02, 2008, 20:49	#3
W.E.G. Administrator Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 1211 Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Virginia Posts: 31,052	Cutting is a more reliable method for folks who are not set up to put some mondo-squeeze on the barrel. I tried to turn one off, and rounded the barrel flats but good. Never again. Bust out the dremel, and take it slow and easy. Cut it on both sides, but pop it on the charging handle side. The cut on the opposite side will allow the stub to flex so it will open up easier on the charging handle side. __________________ . . . Ask me about the Mason-Dixon FAL Collectors Association.

August 03, 2008, 12:17	#6
AndyC Porridge Wog Contributor FALaholic #: 19755 Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Euless, TX Posts: 11,061	What the Dremel-cut looks like before splitting - you can just faintly see the barrel-threads inside the cut (dark vertical stripes): __________________ My Iraq Pics Preferred Travel Agent - 72 Virgins Dating Club

August 03, 2008, 14:06	#7
W.E.G. Administrator Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 1211 Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Virginia Posts: 31,052	That's an excellent pre-split pic! __________________ . . . Ask me about the Mason-Dixon FAL Collectors Association.

August 03, 2008, 14:19	#8
Ron Walker Registered FALaholic #: 35607 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Mathis, Texas Posts: 1,338	"I have not been able to budge the flash hider yet" If your kit is metric, remember it is a left hand thread which means it turns in the opposite direction the bbl screws in. Inch Pattern is RH thread for the FH. Good Luck, Ron __________________ Skypilot Liber aut Mort!! "He's the man we've been taught to hate. He's the solitary American gun nut" Stephen Hunter - Point of Impact

August 02, 2008, 20:28	#2
English Mike Banned TROLL FALaholic #: 11339 Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Whitehaven, England Posts: 13,425	Cutting through the receiver stub can make its removal easier BUT you need to go careful. The idea is to cut along from the charging handle slot using a Dremel or similar tool without buggering the barrel. Cut slowly & stop the moment you see the slightest evidence of threads in the bottom of the cut, or even before. Stick a chisel in the CH slot & whack it with a hammer - should open up the cut & free the barrel threads from the stub's death grip. Repeat as necessary.

August 02, 2008, 22:51	#4
seez52 Registered FALaholic #: 22661 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 99	Sounds like a plan, I may try it out tomorrow., Thanks

August 03, 2008, 09:27	#5
FALs&45s Registered FALaholic #: 18607 Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: ...where the slum's got sooo much soul Posts: 451	never did the opposite-side cut as recommended above but would've had i heard that before. still was no problem. i now have the proper clamping devices so it's a moot point for me. here's a pic.

August 03, 2008, 20:44	#10
seez52 Registered FALaholic #: 22661 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 99	correct on the FH being LH. I've been afraid to put too much pressure. The wrench flats are too narrow for most of my wrenches. The only one I've got that fits close is a 3/4", and it's a bit sloppy. I really hate to get on it with a pipe wrench. I may try some heat next.

August 03, 2008, 20:58	#11
Ron Walker Registered FALaholic #: 35607 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Mathis, Texas Posts: 1,338	I found a wrench that matched it's interior dimensions and ground the ears to fit inside the groove. I don't remember it's size(it's out in my shop) but it works well, and the longer the wrench handle the better. No job for a stubbie! You might try using a little heat to break it loose or soak a few hours with Liquid Wrench. Ron __________________ Skypilot Liber aut Mort!! "He's the man we've been taught to hate. He's the solitary American gun nut" Stephen Hunter - Point of Impact

August 03, 2008, 21:08	#12
thedrickel don't tax me, bro Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 19388 Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bay Area Posts: 1,191	On the FH - heat, some penetrating oil, and a wrench that is ground down to fit the flats or a ratchet in the end of the hider will get it off. __________________ "During my 18 years I came to bat almost 10,000 times. I struck out about 1,700 times and walked maybe 1,800 times. You figure a ball player will average about 500 AB's a year. That means I played seven years in the major leagues without even hitting the ball." Mickey Mantle

August 03, 2008, 23:14	#14
seez52 Registered FALaholic #: 22661 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 99	SUCCESS!! I decided before trying to grind a groove, and since I did buy a bbl. vise from Rats I'd give it a try. On the first one the vise slipped just a bit so I cranked the vise bolts down a little more. It came on out of there. I actually did both my kits, one was a little easier. I screwed the stub back on one of them to see where it hand tightens and it's not as much as everyone here recommends. I also have been soaking the FH in penetrating oil. With a bit of a cheater bar both of them came off too--- woo whooo! another question, on Century receivers is it usually the bbl. threads than need to be chased or the threads in the receiver? I thought maybe the finish on the receiver might be what's making it tight.

August 04, 2008, 00:01	#16
seez52 Registered FALaholic #: 22661 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 99	seemed to fit perfectly. I didn't notice any slip marks on the stub. I bolted it directly on, didn't use any tape. Wasn't really sure how tight I should make it. Any thoughts on that? I probably turned it up fairly tight. Certainly past snug.

August 04, 2008, 12:03	#17
ce Registered FALaholic #: 373 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: New Mexico Posts: 5,903	Load up the barrel threads with polishing compound and screw it back and forth into the receiver until it goes all the way. I used diamond paste. Diamond paste, always a girl's best friend when you want to go all the way.

August 04, 2008, 12:21	#18
seez52 Registered FALaholic #: 22661 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 99	I was thinking about that. It probably only goes in one turn or less. I've got a whole set of clover compound of different grits. I also thought about using my blast cabinet and some 80 grit alum oxide and shoot the receiver threads a little. What do you think about that?

August 04, 2008, 13:20	#20
seez52 Registered FALaholic #: 22661 Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 99	I was using an allen wrench that's mounted on a socket, so I had a ratchet on it. I guess I was afraid I might have clamped the receiver too tightly.

August 04, 2008, 22:48	#23
ThunderGod Banned TROLL FALaholic #: 7196 Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: North Texas Posts: 4,819	Andy was a stub-dremelin', "smooth operator", that day. Demil'd a couple kits, built a few rifles.... Adding to the addiction, one time at a time.

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