Chrome Plate FAL?

**W.E.G.** · January 27, 2001, 16:48

Has anybody ever chrome-plated a FAL?

I know there are dark colored "chrome" finishes. But, I'm talking about mirror silver chrome like on the bumper of a '57 Chevy.

Considering the rough texture of many FAL receivers and barrels, would the finish be come out shiny like a mirror, or would it end up dull-colored like the bore on a SAR1? Does the metal require special pre-application polishing to get the mirror finish?

How much would it cost to do all the visible FAL parts in chrome?

How about a dark chrome finish on some of the smaller parts for contrast?

What about longevity of the finish? Would the chrome on a barrel turn funny colors after two or three rapid fire magazines? What about peeling?

[ July 22, 2001: Message edited by: gary.jeter ]

R4 fan · January 27, 2001, 17:02

You could also get the rifle done in Robar's NP3 (nickel/teflon?). Not the same as chrome, but probably the same affect as a brushed chrome.

paintballmagnet · January 27, 2001, 17:17

Gary, With chrome plating, every nick and dent will show through the plating. You'd have to do a lot of metal work to prevent this. You could bead blast your parts before chroming, this would give you a duller look. There are problems with chroming concerning hydrogen embrittlement. This can cause metal to become less able to absorb impact without cracking. I'd only use a well known gun refinisher to attempt this! Also, the chrome on a bumper is not the industrial hard chrome that a firearm must be done in.

Dean P · January 28, 2001, 08:00

The rifle may not have any value to anyone with a chrome finnish.I see mod 1917s,1903s with chrome finnish that were used for parades & honor guard, sell for pennies on the dollar.The chrome has a flaking problem.

Deltaten · January 28, 2001, 10:38

Hell!, Just gold plate the SOB.

(ed note) : pre-emptively removed comments about parking downtown w/gun in window rack. insert own mental picture here. seee D/B for original response

Really, hard chrome is great. Wear is about nil, and lubricity(?) is tremendous. It would probably cost an arm, leg, and ****., tho. Had my comp .45/9mm done 10 years or so ago. Two slides, frame and some small parts were about $100, IIRC. I've been shopping prices to get my Colt 10mm done. WOW! Mebbe I'll just park it next time I set up the tanks.

Black matte hardchrome would be the cat's nuts though. Some outfits were doing TiN, in colors, no less!, about 8 yr ago. Haven't seen any lately. Color was cool, but all kinda "pastel". Great if you were doing a gun for a little girl, although the grey and "silver" were ok.

For the shiny finish, mebbe nickel is the way to go. Surface accretion w/a couple of coats of copper under the nickel would hide all the machine marks and dings, and tighten up the moving parts

That glare would at least destroy the "opposing party's" sight picture

Best,
Paul

------------------
They call us the"Right", don't they?

[This message has been edited by Deltaten (edited January 28, 2001).]

Gaspipe · January 28, 2001, 12:53

Chrome needs to be triple plated to adhere well to steel. As I recall, they use nickel (?), copper, then chromium.

Maybe just leave it rough beadblast texture and nickel plate it. That leaves a slighty yellowy in the shine. Some bore solvents attack the nickel, so if you go that way, be careful.

The teflon coatings may look good to get that cool, shoot me first look

Still trying to figger out why my M444 hates some ammo......

------------------
Gaspipe.....
User of an auto-loading, gas operated battle rifle.

derek huffman, azexarms · January 28, 2001, 15:35

the problem with "bicycle" chrome as I refer to it is the thickness. It is a decorative thing and quite thick a plating to adhere and wear well.

Hard chrome, on the other hand can be done in a "flash" process and is super-hard, super durable, but not as shiny as you want, you'd have to polish extensively with a huge felt wheel and a lot of super-ninja auto show type chrome polish to obtain what you desire.

Note: DO NOT chrome the extractor or extractor plunger, the rifle for some odd reason will not work if you do, I tried this in one of my post-samples, in which I had chromed, in addition to the hammer, trigger, sear, the safety sear, Bolt, BC, firing pin, extractor.

Until I changed the extractor, It would only fire twice and then jam. Swapped out the extractor with a new one and it ran like a sewing machine. D.

January 27, 2001, 16:48	#1
W.E.G. Administrator Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 1211 Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Virginia Posts: 31,052	Chrome Plate FAL? Has anybody ever chrome-plated a FAL? I know there are dark colored "chrome" finishes. But, I'm talking about mirror silver chrome like on the bumper of a '57 Chevy. Considering the rough texture of many FAL receivers and barrels, would the finish be come out shiny like a mirror, or would it end up dull-colored like the bore on a SAR1? Does the metal require special pre-application polishing to get the mirror finish? How much would it cost to do all the visible FAL parts in chrome? How about a dark chrome finish on some of the smaller parts for contrast? What about longevity of the finish? Would the chrome on a barrel turn funny colors after two or three rapid fire magazines? What about peeling? [ July 22, 2001: Message edited by: gary.jeter ] __________________ . . . Ask me about the Mason-Dixon FAL Collectors Association.

January 27, 2001, 17:02	#2
R4 fan Registered FALaholic #: 1442 Join Date: Oct 2000 Posts: 1,581	You could also get the rifle done in Robar's NP3 (nickel/teflon?). Not the same as chrome, but probably the same affect as a brushed chrome. __________________ Are you a good person? http://www.whatstandard.com http://www.goodpersontest.com

January 28, 2001, 10:38	#5
Deltaten Registered FALaholic #: 124 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Lancaster, PA USA Posts: 8,498	Hell!, Just gold plate the SOB. (ed note) : pre-emptively removed comments about parking downtown w/gun in window rack. insert own mental picture here. seee D/B for original response Really, hard chrome is great. Wear is about nil, and lubricity(?) is tremendous. It would probably cost an arm, leg, and ****., tho. Had my comp .45/9mm done 10 years or so ago. Two slides, frame and some small parts were about $100, IIRC. I've been shopping prices to get my Colt 10mm done. WOW! Mebbe I'll just park it next time I set up the tanks. Black matte hardchrome would be the cat's nuts though. Some outfits were doing TiN, in colors, no less!, about 8 yr ago. Haven't seen any lately. Color was cool, but all kinda "pastel". Great if you were doing a gun for a little girl, although the grey and "silver" were ok. For the shiny finish, mebbe nickel is the way to go. Surface accretion w/a couple of coats of copper under the nickel would hide all the machine marks and dings, and tighten up the moving parts That glare would at least destroy the "opposing party's" sight picture Best, Paul ------------------ They call us the"Right", don't they? [This message has been edited by Deltaten (edited January 28, 2001).] __________________ All or Nothing! Senator McCarthy was right! and as always......FYB!

January 28, 2001, 12:53	#6
Gaspipe Registered FALaholic #: 2131 Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: South of the Mason Dixon Line Posts: 610	Chrome needs to be triple plated to adhere well to steel. As I recall, they use nickel (?), copper, then chromium. Maybe just leave it rough beadblast texture and nickel plate it. That leaves a slighty yellowy in the shine. Some bore solvents attack the nickel, so if you go that way, be careful. The teflon coatings may look good to get that cool, shoot me first look Still trying to figger out why my M444 hates some ammo...... ------------------ Gaspipe..... User of an auto-loading, gas operated battle rifle. __________________ gaspipe [the original]

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January 27, 2001, 17:17	#3
paintballmagnet Registered FALaholic #: 1186 Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: AR U.S.A. Posts: 374	Gary, With chrome plating, every nick and dent will show through the plating. You'd have to do a lot of metal work to prevent this. You could bead blast your parts before chroming, this would give you a duller look. There are problems with chroming concerning hydrogen embrittlement. This can cause metal to become less able to absorb impact without cracking. I'd only use a well known gun refinisher to attempt this! Also, the chrome on a bumper is not the industrial hard chrome that a firearm must be done in.

January 28, 2001, 08:00	#4
Dean P banned FALaholic #: 494 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Texas Posts: 7,101	The rifle may not have any value to anyone with a chrome finnish.I see mod 1917s,1903s with chrome finnish that were used for parades & honor guard, sell for pennies on the dollar.The chrome has a flaking problem.

January 28, 2001, 15:35	#7
derek huffman, azexarms Perm Banned FALaholic #: 206 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Mesa, AZ USA Posts: 1,392	the problem with "bicycle" chrome as I refer to it is the thickness. It is a decorative thing and quite thick a plating to adhere and wear well. Hard chrome, on the other hand can be done in a "flash" process and is super-hard, super durable, but not as shiny as you want, you'd have to polish extensively with a huge felt wheel and a lot of super-ninja auto show type chrome polish to obtain what you desire. Note: DO NOT chrome the extractor or extractor plunger, the rifle for some odd reason will not work if you do, I tried this in one of my post-samples, in which I had chromed, in addition to the hammer, trigger, sear, the safety sear, Bolt, BC, firing pin, extractor. Until I changed the extractor, It would only fire twice and then jam. Swapped out the extractor with a new one and it ran like a sewing machine. D.