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Old June 13, 2007, 23:47   #1
dana1
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L1A1 Grip Stud Solution?

I have an L1A1 lower that has been Century'ed, having the pistol grip mounting stud cut off. I know with the vast knowledge available here someone will have a good idea to remedy this situation. Whatever I do, I want it to be a solid fix since the trigger return spring is housed in the pistol grip, and it can play hell with your trigger pull if not done correctly. Your advise is greatly appreciated.
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Old June 14, 2007, 01:08   #2
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GPG and Gunthings both carry them.
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Old June 14, 2007, 11:41   #3
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Lowes has a brass flange bushing at their hardware department in the small part drawers fit perfectly and works great. I have it on 2 CAI thumbhole stock conversions, no problem at all. I can post the part # and may be a picture if you need.
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Old June 14, 2007, 15:08   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by HankC
Lowes has a brass flange bushing at their hardware department in the small part drawers fit perfectly and works great. I have it on 2 CAI thumbhole stock conversions, no problem at all. I can post the part # and may be a picture if you need.
Ace hardware has the part too, for less than Lowe's. 1/4 x 3/8 x 15/32 bronze flange bushing. Smaller than the machined stud replacements, but appear to work.
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Old June 14, 2007, 19:13   #5
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So, with brass or bronze, do you soldier them on the lower?
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Old June 14, 2007, 19:34   #6
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fix

Most of the time the trigger return pin plate has been ground off and the small tab that goes into the slot in the bottom of the reciever is missing. Replace this plate if so and make sure its in the slot and that will maintain your trigger possition. The bushing if it fits snug does not need to be welded or brazzed as the plate will line everything up.
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Old April 01, 2008, 18:43   #7
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This bushing, should it be shoved into the hole in the lower?
I might have to ream the hole slightly for this to work.

Does anyone have a link to where the machined parts are sold?
thanks
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Old April 02, 2008, 20:53   #8
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Did I hear anyone asking about machined parts? I had made a nut for ScottV2 once for a similiar purpose. It might do the trick for you. Contact him and discuss the situation, it might do the trick.
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Old April 04, 2008, 10:57   #9
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I went the HD way , Brass. Pressed a dift Punch in it to hold in place.
Worked out pertty well. After the paint job, you have to look real hard to see a difference.
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Old April 04, 2008, 11:31   #10
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I' ve been turning them out of cut-off barrel sections, but the flat for the trigger stip leaves the wall thinner than the original. but I prefer the steel because i can braze and parkerize it. If the flange came in steel . .. . ?
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Old April 24, 2008, 08:24   #11
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What's the part actuall called at GPG or Gunthings. If I got the Lowe's route, what kind of screw will I need coming up from the bottom of the L1A1 grip? THANKS
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Old April 24, 2008, 10:13   #12
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he'll know what you mean.

there is a complete screw and pitch chart in the ref section. There are several screws (bolts actually) that are acceptable - either slotted dome head or socket head.
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Old April 24, 2008, 16:08   #13
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I don't know if all of them are this way or not...
But the one i just converted i needed a longer screw for the pistol grip than
what came with the thumbhole stock.
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Old April 25, 2008, 08:06   #14
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About halfway down on the L1A1 page.

http://www.gunthings.com/
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Old April 28, 2008, 22:15   #15
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Thanks again. Should the trigger plunger be able to be compressed slightly once the plate is secured to the grip? The trigger plunger serves to reset the trigger correct? I need to plunger to compress a bit so as to get the trigger plate slot to fit into the lower. But the plunger is rock solid and I get no compression/movement. Have I got something wrong here? Thanks!!
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