How to get the goop off reloads?

[Beepy]

A while ago I had the opportunity to pick up some reloads of 7.62x51 from a trusted source for practically nothing. It was reloaded a few years ago and had a butt load of thick-like case lube. Now I wiped it down with a rag soaked in wd-40 taking care to stay away from the primers. Well I took this stuff out and about every 2-3rd round doesn't close all the way. I know this stuff is in spec as I have measured them myself. It seems I just can't get all the goop off and it won't let it chamber.

soooo

Whats the best way to get this crap off without killing the primers? Remember I have about 1,000 rounds of this to anyway to do it on the high volume side of things would be much appreciated!

[mhg]

is it water based?

Matt

[Beepy]

Thats another problem, I have no clue. It was reloaded by my bosses brother (who was a huge military arms collector) but my boss wanted to unload it after he passed away. I am not sure that he even knows.

[mhg]

Well see if a warm wet rag will remove the lube any easier then the WD

Many case lubes are water based.

Matt

[Hebrew Battle Rifle]

Tumbler. corn cob media. cap full of Brasso. two hours. next batch. repeat. done deal.

[Qbdss]

Have to be careful about putting loaded ammo in a case cleaner as the tumbling/vibration will cause the powder granules to breakdown and turn to literally powder which changes the burn characteristics resulting in explosions rather than a controlled burn.

[Clyde the Pointer]

Originally posted by Qbdss
Have to be careful about putting loaded ammo in a case cleaner as the tumbling/vibration will cause the powder granules to breakdown and turn to literally powder which changes the burn characteristics resulting in explosions rather than a controlled burn.

And what evidence do you have to support this theory?

[Mouse]

Originally posted by Qbdss
Have to be careful about putting loaded ammo in a case cleaner as the tumbling/vibration will cause the powder granules to breakdown and turn to literally powder which changes the burn characteristics resulting in explosions rather than a controlled burn.

Stop this shit right now!

Why don't you do a search in the ammunition forum for tumbling ammo and see what you find. This has been beaten to death and it seems like every couple of months somebody brings it up again.. Your statement is untrue and you will not be able to produce ANY evidence to substantiate your claim of explosions.

Ammunition manufacturers tumble loaded ammo everyday prior to it being boxed and shipped.

Here we go again.....

[arashi]

I tumble all of the reloaded rifle rounds to remove the lube.

[Muggzy]

Beepy is sound as though the shoulder of the re-sized cases are not set back enough....I find it hard to believe the case lube is stopping them from chambering......but I don't know it all, anymore.


edited: Tumble the rounds in a case cleaner will get he goop off. Urban legend about tumbling live ammo and and ruining the powder. I Wish they would quit posting that stuff.

[dwarmbrodt]

Could this be a problem caused by the cases being neck sized only? Just a thought.....

[Muggzy]

Originally posted by dwarmbrodt
Could this be a problem caused by the cases being neck sized only? Just a thought.....

sure could

[TaylorWSO]

Are they FL sized or neck sized only? I would check with the reloader before I shot anymore.

Be careful with reloads- IME they have destroyed more guns than factory ammo.. YMMV

[DrDuc]

Check a few cases with a case headspace gauge. If they go in the gauge they should go in the chamber. I think the gauges are about $8 from Midway- at least the last ones I bought were.

[stimpsonjcat]

I test every round I load in a chamber gauge. Any pistol loads that 'barely' make it go in the practice bags, any rifle rounds that are the least bit finicky get pitched.

I am amazed at some of the stuff the chamber gauges bring to my attention.

[owlcreekok]

If ya can't hear me too well, it ain't you, I am talking real low and humble like.....

The man said they were measuring in spec. I reckon I gonna go on that anyhow. I got a bottle of the case lube that Lyman sells. Hard goop to get rid of. So, I keep it tossed over to the side and use the RCBS stuff. It cleans up easy. I am not going to tumble any loaded ammo. I don't know if it will be okay or not. Don't care. Ain't a gonna do it.

Now me, this old bird would take a rag and some acetone (outside, hopfully where there's a little breeze) and I would put some acetone onna rag and wipe that shit off. But then, that is just me. I KNOW that acetone will get rid of it, cuz that is how I got the last batch of that sorry Lyman shit off my cases.

Now, I never had no goop to gob up a ca'tridge so bad it wouldn't chamber. Or is it 'gob to goop up' ?

Mr. Stimp' sez a mouthful. Them there case gages is handy li'l deals.

Neck sized cases sounds ta me like a suspicion, if the gobbin goop ends up gettin' gone and the gun won't make the g'lena go in.

Now, what was I doin' ?

Oh yeah, makin' good 12 ga shells outta empty ones. See y'all after while.

[kerplode]

Originally posted by stimpsonjcat
I test every round I load in a chamber gauge.

+1

IMHO, a cartridge headspace gauge is a required tool when handloading for a semiauto.

Try tumbling a batch for a few hours...That should remove any lube residue. I'd skip the Brasso, though. IIRC, it contains ammonia, which has the potential to weaken the brass. There are polishes made specifically for tumbling cartridge brass that do an acceptable job and won't harm the metal.

If the cleaned cases still don't chamber, then they were probably resized incorrectly.

[USSR]

Definately don't use Brasso.

Don

[TerryN]

+1 on the Brasso. Brasso contains ammonia, which EATS brass!

I'd take a small sample of the ammo outside, and lay it on a rag/old t-shirt, and hose it with brake cleaner. If that works to remove the lube, I'd do it to all of it.

I am with those who have difficulty believeing that case lube is keeping the bolt from closing on this ammo, though. Sounds fishy to me. It seems more likely that A) the cases are not adequately sized for your rifle, B) the bullets are seated out too far, or C) something else is wrong.

A case gauge is an inexpensive and simple way to determine if the brass is inadequately sized. After DECADES of loading .308 without one, I recently bought one - shoulda done it long, long ago. I'm currently in the brass prep stage of loading 1,000 rounds of 'set aside' ammo, and thanks to the gauge, I found that several pieces of machine gun-fired brass didn't size down to spec when run through the FL sizing die. I wouldn't have known that without the gauge, and would have loaded that brass for my contingency ammo. Now it's in the scrap brass bucket.

YMMV, but that's MHO.

[Beepy]

I used my dial calibers to check the reloads versus my South African that runs flawlessly. Case diameter, neck diameter, each neck angle is identical, the only diffrence is the reload's cases are 0.003 inches longer. Both are crimped at the cannuler-cannular-canuslallgja;jga whatever.... anyways they are the same OAL.

I am not going to get to the break cleaner for a couple of days....

[ftierson]

I never shoot anyone else's reloads, so this is a no-brainer for me...

I'd just pull the ammo down and reload it myself...

Forrest

[Hebrew Battle Rifle]

You folks with your silliness about Brasso are just as bad as those folks with the "tumbling loaded ammo will make it blow up" nonsense.

I guess that all of the thousands of rounds of ammo that I have loaded and tumbled with brasso that have NOT blown up or otherwise failed were just pure freaks of nature. I must be the single luckiest reloader on this whole planet.

[owlcreekok]

You and me, HBR. But WTF, right ? My mileage may vary.

I got a message from a valued friend that makes me add this to my previous.

Use CAUTION when working with any kind of chemical. Acetone is NOT safe to breathe or have in prolonged contact with the skin. Use good chem gloves and good ventilation. When I have sized a batch of cases, I put 50 or 75 in a plastic coffee can and fill it halfway with acetone. I slosh it around real good, then pour it off through a strainer. I save the acetone in the closed can for the next batch. I let the cases air dry and go ahead with the loading process.

Thanks to W.E.G. for the tip on using acetone. Prior to that I used hot soapy water and hot water rinse. Then I waited a long time for the cases to dry.

[Big Johnson]

You are supposed to clean the lube off the cases BEFORE you load them. I use either walnut media or corn cob media in a tumbler to do that using an ounce or two of MINERAL SPIRITS mixed into the media. I don't use the walnut with de-primed brass, it tends to get stuck in the primer hole, but it cleans faster. I never tumble loaded brass tho, and wouldn't suggest it since its so contraversial. I would suspect that the rounds were neck sized to cause that type of problem. Most will work, but some won't. Get a gauge for the brass and test them, that should eliminate the jamming rounds.

[idsubgun]

Originally posted by ftierson
I never shoot anyone else's reloads, so this is a no-brainer for me...

I'd just pull the ammo down and reload it myself...

Forrest

Exactly!!!!!!!!!

[Court in Fl]

The best way I have found to get sizing lube off ammo is to lay the ammo on a folded paper towel and apply a little lighter fluid on them and then roll them back and forth in the towel.

The fluid evaporates very fast and I have never had a problem with it hurting the primers.
I have used this process for years.

Useing rubber gloves is probably a good idea.

I think lighter fluid is called naphtha if you buy it at the paint store.

Good luck, Court in FL.

[whirlibird]

There are several trains of thought going on here.

One says use an ammonia based chemical to remove a lubricant.
Another says that this contributes to brass weakness (proven fact, see old Rifleman magazines). The commercial brass cleaners are ammonia free and this should be a hint in the right direction.
Another says it's okay to tumble loaded ammo.
Another says don't tumble for fear of detonation/burn rate problems (proven with shotgun ammunition).

I can only report on what I do and have done while recreationally and professionally reloading.

While at the shop we tumbled loaded ammo to remove the lubricant, Hornady spray lube which does not effect the primer or powder (used in moderation) and the loaded ammo was tumbled for a maximum of 15 minutes. The loaded ammo could and would see more vibration than that on the way home from the shop so that wasn't a worry. We lubed everything from pistol to rifle cases to conserve the dies, even the carbide ones.
We never got a misfired round back in the years I was there that could not be attributed to a problematic firearm.

Other forms of lubrication such as the Lyman spray as well as the RCBS pump style and the older Redding pad or tong type luber's are/were removed by tumbling before trimming/priming as they are more insidious/sticky and are more likely to cause a problem either with ignition or chamber adhesion problems.

Personally I have never liked tumbling loaded ammo, I'm a conservative type by nature when talking about explosives and it just makes me nervous.

I lube and size my brass and tumble it clean. Then I trim and tumble it again. Then it's set aside in a sealed container until I run it through the Dillon press to prime, powder and seat/crimp the bullets.

In this case I'd have to agree with ftierson and pull the bullets, chuck the powder into the lawn (good fertilizer) and re-cap the hulls before starting over. There's too many variables in other peoples ammunition to risk your weapon, life or someone elses just to save a buck.

I've had and seen problems with other commercially re-loaded ammo as well as having some of the most accurate ammo I've ever fired come from a commercial reloader and it's just a crap-shoot everytime.

When I was at the shop, I wouldn't shoot the boss's reloads, not because I didn't trust his loading skills but because I just don't shoot other's reloads and have made a point of that for the past 15 years.

So take what's said here for what it's worth, you may get away with Brasso'ing your brass. There's no way I'd do it ever. But if you want to go ahead.
Go ahead and tumble your loaded rounds. I wouldn't anymore but have in the past for limited times.
As to acetone, brake cleaner and naptha, if you're gonna use them, get plenty of ventilation and use gloves.
Remember also that they will break down primer/bullet sealants so use sparingly around factory/surplus ammo.

Remember it's your butt everytime you pull the trigger and for myself I want the highest quality and least potential for problems so I plan and act accordingly.

Remember also that just because someone else does it, doesn't make it a good idea or safe. Consult a loading manual and make sure.

[Cuda]

You've got to be kidding right?

Brasso contains ammonia and will weaken brass, it may not show up immediately but it will happen!

Tumbling of loaded ammo is a definite NO-NO! Smokeless powder has a coating on it to help control the rate of burn, knock or rub it off and you can cause a serious accident. I've been reloading since the early 70's. Don't believe me? E-mail any powder manufacturer and see what you get for an answer. Tumble before loading!

Seems to me that some of you have been extremely lucky!

I suggest that you take a look at pages 124 and 125 of Sierra's reloading manual. It just might save you or some one else from injury.

[Qbdss]

Regarding tumbling loaded cases…..references and personal correspondence……

1.
Is tumbling loaded ammunition dangerous?
A. Short term tumbling will have no real affect on loaded ammunition, but extensive tumbling can cause the breakdown of the powder grains. This would have two major effects. First, smaller grains will ignite more quickly than larger grains, and second the deterrent coating on the outside of the grains may be rubbed off and will be absent from any fractured edges which will cause the powder to burn more quickly raising pressures.
Tests run some years ago by a commercial entity did indicate that potentially dangerous changes in powder charge burning characteristics do take place after PROLONGED periods in either a vibratory or a tumbling cleaner.
The key word here is prolonged. Many manufacturers of ammunition do a final cleaning of their product either by tumbling or a vibratory process before boxing it for shipment. In no case is this allowed to exceed more than just a couple of minutes. The intent is not so much to "polish" but to remove any traces of contaminants which might in time leave marks on the finished product. There seems to be a consensus among the ammunition manufacturing engineers that a minute or two of vibratory cleaning has no discernable effect on burning rates, especially for loads that are compressed, or nearly so. However, all have emphasized the need for EXTREME CAUTION not to overdo the process.
They also pointed out that there is a considerable difference in effect on the powder charge depending on whether the process is by "tumbling" or "vibrating." It would appear that tumbling has less effect on the powder than vibrating, though this is mostly a matter of degree. The admonition to use EXTREME CAUTION to insure that the process never exceeds a couple of minutes applies equally to either process.
Ideally you should do your reloading after an extensive cleaning of the empty brass so any cleaning after loading is merely to remove traces of lube or to keep fingerprints from staining after a couple of months storage. A two stage process is recommended. One minute or so in a fairly abrasive cleaner with a tiny bit of solvent added to it to remove any traces of lube left on the brass, followed by one minute or so in clean corncob media to remove any traces of abrasive. Religiously follow several basic rules: use only a small amount of solvent and do the cleaning in a well ventilated area; change your media frequently, never letting it "load-up" with lube; and never "let it run while you do something else" and run the risk
of letting it run too long and altering the burning rate of the powder.

Courtesy http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscellc.htm



2.
Regardless of the method used, handloaders should never tumble loaded ammunition. Doing so may cause a deterioration of the powder’s deterrent coating, or, in extreme cases, may damage the powder itself. Either situation would alter the burning rate, possibly raising pressures to dangerous levels.

Courtesy http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...s/trimmers.cfm


3.
If you decide to use a tumbler, a word of caution is also in order here. While tumblers and polishers are great for restoring the beauty to brass, they should never be used to clean loaded ammunition. The tumbling process can result in breaking down the physical properties of the powder, thereby affecting the burning rate. This cannot only affect the accuracy of the cartridges, it can in some instances drive chamber pressures to excessive levels. The same result can occur when cartridges have been allowed to roll around for long periods of time inside a vehicle or anywhere else where a lot of movement is experienced. Thus, be very careful where you store your extra cartridges - and again, don’t attempt to tumble loaded ammo.

Courtesy http://www.ssaa.org.au/May%202002/Ti...20reloader.htm


4.
Personal communications

Hodgen / IMR / Winchester
Spoke with Chris Hodgen- tumbling can result in buildup of static electricity, heat caused by friction during the tumbling process can degrade the powder and primer, bottom line not recommended.

SAAMI
Spoke with Ken, did not have any hard data, but recommended it not be done.

Accurate Powder
Spoke with Bob do not recommend it be done.

Alliant Powder
Not recommended. Person I spoke with is not aware of any incidents but does not recommend tumbling loaded ammunition.

Sierra Bullets
Spoke with Rich, there are several reasons for not doing this….…..very long spitzer type bullets can result in changing the bullet shape resulting loss of accuracy. Also with hollow points, the media can plug the hole resulting in erratic expansion. With the tumbling type case cleaners, there is an extremely remote possibility of a discharge. There is even less of a chance with the vibrating style of case cleaner. However, with the vibrating type cleaners, (even with the tumbling), the coating of the powder can be degraded if the cases are cleaned very long which will change burning rate of the powder. Referencing the American Rifleman editorial staff, over the years unexplained problems (terminal for firearm) may be due to ammunition that had been rolling around on the truck dash or glovebox for long periods of time, with the constant vibration changes shape of the retardant covering the powder causing changes burn rate over long period of time. Probably 5-10min of cleaning is OK to remove the lube.


Dillon Precision
Spoke with John, ammunition companies do this all the time but do not clean for more than 10min as the structure of the powder can be changed.

Midway USA
Consensus of the people at Midway would recommend not doing this…..”vibration and heat buildup from tumbling/vibrating does not do powder any good”. Midway does not have an official stance, but no one there would recommend tumbling/vibration cleaning of loaded ammunition?


Remington Ammunition
Does not have a comment….deal with new ammunition, components are cleaned and tumbled prior to assembly. When asked if tumbling could cause breakdown of the powder said it could happen but Remington has not investigated this.

I have a few other people/companies I am still working on, if anyone is interested.

Regarding my original comment, I have been reloading for ~21yrs, and when I first begun, I read everything possible. Over the years I ran across the article that said not to tumble loaded cases, so I made a note to self not to tumble loaded cases. Had I known there would be such angst regarding this matter, I would have kept the reference and framed the thing. As others have said, you want to take a chance that controlled explosion (normal cartridge going off) might not be controlled inches from your face, then by all means, go ahead, but I for one am not interested in losing an important part of my body, except during WECSOGin of course.

[kec0723]

Originally posted by Beepy
A while ago I had the opportunity to pick up some reloads of 7.62x51 from a trusted source for practically nothing. It was reloaded a few years ago and had a butt load of thick-like case lube. Now I wiped it down with a rag soaked in wd-40 taking care to stay away from the primers. Well I took this stuff out and about every 2-3rd round doesn't close all the way. I know this stuff is in spec as I have measured them myself. It seems I just can't get all the goop off and it won't let it chamber.

soooo

Whats the best way to get this crap off without killing the primers? Remember I have about 1,000 rounds of this to anyway to do it on the high volume side of things would be much appreciated!

I tumble all my reloaded, lubed up ammo in a corn-cob media with a few table spoons of mineral spirits for as long as it takes to run the ammo through about two or three spins (about less then a minute in most cases).........works like a charm, and there's no harm to the powder or primer....how do you think the "big boys" do it..........but along the same lines as has already been spoken of....a case gauge is a must, and I won't be surprised that the ammo is reloaded from mil-surp cases, as the re-loader was a mil type guy....in which case you almost always need to run the brass through a small base re-sizing die to bring it back into spec................my .02

[kec0723]

Originally posted by Big Johnson
You are supposed to clean the lube off the cases BEFORE you load them.

you must spend a lot of time using a stuck case remover.......

[ftierson]

Originally posted by kec0723
you must spend a lot of time using a stuck case remover.......

Not before you size them, but before you load them...



Forrest

[BUFF]

I don't shoot other people's reloads in my guns, either. I am of the "pull it down and reload it" school of thought here.

As to why it won't chamber... Has the lube collected gunk, dust and the like?

I would try to clean a few cases by hand with denatured (rubbing) alcohol and an old towel. The alcohol is pretty harmless if not ingested. Kitchen gloves would be plenty enough to protect your skin. That's how I clean handloaded cartridges that are processed without carbide dies and were lubed first.

I remove the case lube from empty, sized brass with corn cob and alcohol in a tumbler case cleaner.

I have tumbled plenty of loaded catridges in the corn cob and alcohol media for 15 minutes. Never seen any harm done. They always shot and chronographed the same as the hand-cleaned ones.

My advice is worth what it cost you.

[Beepy]

So if I do pull all this down and reload it, whats the best way to go about doing 1,000 rounds without taking several years....

[steveo539]

An overzealous crimp can cause the case to bulge out just below the shoulder. Check that if you haven't already. I think you could clean the gunk off with a rag sparingly soaked with some type of solvent (alcohol, acetone, naptha, etc). Insert normal warning "Wear gloves, plenty of ventilation, etc". I'm afraid of shooting other peoples reloads myself. It's pretty hard to double load a rifle case though. Your call though. Just pulled some down last week. A collet puller in a single stage press works pretty fast. I think I'd reuse the primers.
Steve

[Hebrew Battle Rifle]

Originally posted by Beepy
So if I do pull all this down and reload it, whats the best way to go about doing 1,000 rounds without taking several years....

Go here .

Get one. You will be a very happy reloader. It makes disassmebly so easy that you will sort of wish that you had more ammo to pull down.

[Mouse]

While you guys have been doing your best to beat this dead horse into submission I went to the top of the page and used the search function to pull up some of the other threads concerning this topic.
None of you guys can offer any PROOF that tumbling loaded ammo has ever caused any problems.

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...hreadid=179654

Please continue beating, I think the horse might have a breath or two left in him...

[Cuda]

I think that when powder manufacturers and reloading equipment manufacturers all say, "Don't do it!", then that should be plenty of proof for any thinking person. Read your f'ing reloading manual, all the proof you or anyone else should need is in there! There has to be some good reason for their concern or they wouldn't waste time and money to put it in print. Why on earth you would even take the risk is beyond me. Tumble before you load and then wipe with a rag dampened with water or denatured alcohol after you load and you're done. Takes my daughter about 5 minutes to do 100rds. Loaded ammo doesn't have to be bright and shiney, just clean. Been reloading for 35 years and I don't/won't tumble loaded brass, it just isn't necessary. Just because you've been lucky doesn't mean it can't happen. The person that gets hurt might not be you, it could be someone standing nearby. Is the risk of someone getting seriously injured worth having nice, shiney ammo? Not to me! Good luck and be safe!

[Hebrew Battle Rifle]

Originally posted by Cuda
I think that when powder manufacturers and reloading equipment manufacturers all say, "Don't do it!", then that should be plenty of proof for any thinking person.

I sure hope that you never serve on a jury.

If the police and prosecutor say you did it, that should be plenty of proof for a thinking person.

Yes sir. Plenty of proof.

[Cuda]

I sure hope that you never serve on a jury.

If the police and prosecutor say you did it, that should be plenty of proof for a thinking person.

Yes sir. Plenty of proof.



I guess you don't understand the term "Preponderance of evidence" as applied to civil trials or what constitutes evidence in criminal trials. This is not however either one. It seems to me that the only empirical proof that you would understand is if a weapon gets wrecked or someone gets injured. I'll bet thats when you'd go "OH SHIT! maybe those powder manufacturers or reloading companies new what they were talking about!" The real problem here is that someone dared to say that what you were espousing is incorrect and you got your feeliings hurt.

Nuff said, I'm done! Be safe and stay healthy.

[mhg]

More than one manufacturer tumbles loaded ammo


Matt

[owlcreekok]

Originally posted by Hebrew Battle Rifle



Go here .

Get one. You will be a very happy reloader. It makes disassmebly so easy that you will sort of wish that you had more ammo to pull down.

You got one of those, I assume.

How is it holding up ?

Years ago I had the RCBS collet puller. Real POS that one.

[Hebrew Battle Rifle]

Originally posted by owlcreekok


You got one of those, I assume.

How is it holding up ?

Years ago I had the RCBS collet puller. Real POS that one.

I am most pleased with the simplicity, construction , and performance of this device. I cannot imagine, even with daily use, of ever wearing it out.

[Carphunter]

Beepy, not stepping into the case treatment war....but reading your post on measuring your cartridges, I've got a guess what your problem may be.

Different bullets have different lengths to the point in their ogive where it reaches chamber diameter.

While your reloads may look identical...it's pretty tough to eyeball the ogive.

So, while two cartridges may have identical OAL, the measurement to the ogive may be very different.

If your reloaded stuff is too long to ogive, it will give you chambering problems.

If you need a way to measure, check out Sinclair's bullet comparator. It's a cheap little tool you can use with your calipers to get the ogive measurement you need. You may then be able to compare different shells to see if the ones that don't chamber are longer than the rest.

Another way to do a quickie check is to black the bullet on one that won't go into battery with a sharpie marker. carefully (and following all common sense rules of firearms handling), chamber the round (or attempt to), and then eject it. Look at the bullet and see if you can see marks from the rifling of the barrel. This would also tell you the bullets are long.

Originally posted by Beepy
I used my dial calibers to check the reloads versus my South African that runs flawlessly. Case diameter, neck diameter, each neck angle is identical, the only diffrence is the reload's cases are 0.003 inches longer. Both are crimped at the cannuler-cannular-canuslallgja;jga whatever.... anyways they are the same OAL.

I am not going to get to the break cleaner for a couple of days....

[Mouse]

Originally posted by Cuda
I guess you don't understand the term "Preponderance of evidence" as applied to civil trials or what constitutes evidence in criminal trials. This is not however either one. It seems to me that the only empirical proof that you would understand is if a weapon gets wrecked or someone gets injured. I'll bet thats when you'd go "OH SHIT! maybe those powder manufacturers or reloading companies new what they were talking about!" The real problem here is that someone dared to say that what you were espousing is incorrect and you got your feeliings hurt.

Nuff said, I'm done! Be safe and stay healthy.

Please post your "Preponderance of Evidence" here for all of us to see so that we to will have the benefit of your information.

I hearby state that "The Moon is made of Green Cheese and it was constructed by Little Green Men"
There you go, it's in print so it must be true!

[M38]

What's the big deal? After I lube & resize the cases I just wipe them off with paper towels.

[Hebrew Battle Rifle]

Originally posted by M38
What's the big deal? After I lube & resize the cases I just wipe them off with paper towels.

For folks like me that loads hundreds of rounds at a time, using paper towels would be a tedious and unpleasant process. Putting them in a tumbler with a cap full of brasso gets the cases clean while I continue to crank out ammo.

[owlcreekok]

While we are hijacking, HBR, I see Graf's listing some kind of "adapter" with that deal. (the puller thingy) WTF is that ? You got any clue ?

Y'all get over it. (the hijack) This is gonna turn into another pissing contest over tumbling brass and drinking Brasso any damn how.

[Mouse]

Originally posted by owlcreekok

Y'all get over it. (the hijack) This is gonna turn into another pissing contest over tumbling brass and drinking Brasso any damn how.

You make a pretty good point my fine feathered friend, now shuturass!

[owlcreekok]

You keep misusing Hugh's favorite term and spelling it wrong, that fat git is gonna come upstairs and whip yer butt.