Vent Rib ?

Regal Beagal · January 09, 2007, 22:00

Hey Folks!
Picked up a S&W 3000 3" mag. 12 ga. pump shotgun with a 30" ventilated ribbed barrel a few weeks back, mainly to deer hunt with. It's one of the deluxe models with the gloss finished stock and polished blued metal finish, a pretty shotgun but a little to shiney for me. I've already dulled the finish down on the stock and forearm and was planning on either parkerizing or spraying K-Gunkote's matte dark grey finish. The only problem I see is that with the Gunkote you have to cure your parts for an hour in an oven at a temp over 300 degrees. I know that with side x side shotguns you can't hot blue them because the high temps will soften the solder. I'm wondering if the same would be true for the vent ribs on modern shotguns?

shootist87122 · January 09, 2007, 22:24

Gun Kote needs to be applied over fresh park for best results so you might want to re-think. Sorry, I don't know what temp would be safe for the vent rib.

akajun · January 09, 2007, 22:28

Better make sure the rib is not plastic or aluminum before you blast and park it.

I dont know how to tell what temp the solder will melt at but from what I understand the hot caustic bluing that damages soft solders on old doubles actually atacks the solder, not the heat. I dont think parking gets that hot, around 180 to 190 deg.

shootist87122 · January 09, 2007, 22:40

Get some removable camo tape and tape it up. No need to muck up a nice firearm.

Regal Beagal · January 10, 2007, 19:35

Akajun- you're right it isn't the heat that softens the solder it's the caustic bluing that atttacks the solder. As far as parkerizing before spraying on the K-Gunkote - it can be done either way. I've done it both ways and in both situations it was just as durable but I'm sure that with the parkerization it adds a little more protection. Anyway, my main concern is the heat softening the solder. I'll put in a call to one of my local gunsmiths to see if they would know. Thanks Folks for your replies. RB

rpk74dr · January 11, 2007, 17:13

How about curing at a lower temp but for a longer duration of time?

January 09, 2007, 22:00	#1
Regal Beagal Registered FALaholic #: 91 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Carolina-the beach Posts: 1,008	Vent Rib ? Hey Folks! Picked up a S&W 3000 3" mag. 12 ga. pump shotgun with a 30" ventilated ribbed barrel a few weeks back, mainly to deer hunt with. It's one of the deluxe models with the gloss finished stock and polished blued metal finish, a pretty shotgun but a little to shiney for me. I've already dulled the finish down on the stock and forearm and was planning on either parkerizing or spraying K-Gunkote's matte dark grey finish. The only problem I see is that with the Gunkote you have to cure your parts for an hour in an oven at a temp over 300 degrees. I know that with side x side shotguns you can't hot blue them because the high temps will soften the solder. I'm wondering if the same would be true for the vent ribs on modern shotguns? __________________ When the government fears the people there is Liberty. When the people fear the government there is Tyranny- Thomas Jefferson

January 09, 2007, 22:24	#2
shootist87122 Registered FALaholic #: 7202 Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NM Posts: 5,127	Gun Kote needs to be applied over fresh park for best results so you might want to re-think. Sorry, I don't know what temp would be safe for the vent rib. __________________ "So in the Libyan Fable it is told, That once an eagle, stricken with a dart, said, when he saw the fashion of the shaft, it is by our own feathers, not others hands, are we now smitten." -Aeschylus

January 09, 2007, 22:40	#4
shootist87122 Registered FALaholic #: 7202 Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NM Posts: 5,127	Get some removable camo tape and tape it up. No need to muck up a nice firearm. __________________ "So in the Libyan Fable it is told, That once an eagle, stricken with a dart, said, when he saw the fashion of the shaft, it is by our own feathers, not others hands, are we now smitten." -Aeschylus

January 10, 2007, 19:35	#5
Regal Beagal Registered FALaholic #: 91 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Carolina-the beach Posts: 1,008	Akajun- you're right it isn't the heat that softens the solder it's the caustic bluing that atttacks the solder. As far as parkerizing before spraying on the K-Gunkote - it can be done either way. I've done it both ways and in both situations it was just as durable but I'm sure that with the parkerization it adds a little more protection. Anyway, my main concern is the heat softening the solder. I'll put in a call to one of my local gunsmiths to see if they would know. Thanks Folks for your replies. RB __________________ When the government fears the people there is Liberty. When the people fear the government there is Tyranny- Thomas Jefferson

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January 09, 2007, 22:28	#3
akajun Registered FALaholic #: 22516 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: louisiana Posts: 1,230	Better make sure the rib is not plastic or aluminum before you blast and park it. I dont know how to tell what temp the solder will melt at but from what I understand the hot caustic bluing that damages soft solders on old doubles actually atacks the solder, not the heat. I dont think parking gets that hot, around 180 to 190 deg.

January 11, 2007, 17:13	#6
rpk74dr Registered FALaholic #: 7901 Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Central Florida Posts: 893	How about curing at a lower temp but for a longer duration of time?