Great "military look" walnut stock finishing tip......

FWRA · February 23, 2002, 18:40

I've had great results with Ballistol hand rubbed on my walnut gun stocks. Here is a photo of my latest project, an Ironwood walnut buttstock with one hand rubbed coat of Ballistol. I left the shoulder area natural to show you how well this works.

The technique requires rubbing the wood hard with the palm of your hand until it gets hot from friction. I then let it soak in overnight and apply the second coat the same way the next day. After about 8-10 hand rubs, the FAL furniture takes on a nice dark military look without that "glossy" look.

This trick taught me by an old guy at a gunshow. Try it.....it works!

First coat:

Closer:

I'll put up a photo of the finished project!

Ballistol......
Not just for lubrication.

FWRA

Enquiring Minds · February 23, 2002, 20:05

Yep, that's the no-nonsense no-gloss "it's not a Weatherby" mil-issue look I'm after...

Any idea how good the moisture/environmental protection is vs. ye olde tung or linseed oils???

FWRA · February 23, 2002, 21:03

EM,
Repels water like "raindrops off a ducks back" after about 10 coats. On the Ironwood walnut handguards I also drench the inside with Ballistol and let it sit for 10-15min then wipe of the excess with a Ballistol soaked rag. (Use the liquid Ballistol, not the aerosol which is too diluted by the carrier to be effective)

It's really an excellent and weatherproof finish in the end. The trick is to add a coat every 24 hours rubbing it in as described for each application.

I'm no fan of glossy wood either, satin or otherwise on a gun. This soft walnut finish is perfect for me.

FWRA

Richard Bird · February 23, 2002, 23:11

Is Ballistol flammable? Good for hardwood floors?

recce · February 24, 2002, 00:07

I use the same hand rub process with my Enfields and F.N's using boiled linseed and finish it off with the old timer favourite of 1/3 turp, 1/3 B.L.O. and 1/3 bee's wax. Very nice old time finish and very weather proof. Best of all, it you do get a scuff or two the wax mix takes care of it pretty damn good.
(spelling, yet again)

[ February 24, 2002: Message edited by: recce ]

FWRA · February 24, 2002, 00:25

Quote:

Originally posted by Richard Bird:
Is Ballistol flammable? Good for hardwood floors?

I've never finished hardwood floors with Ballistol Richard. I'm not sure just how it would hold up to heavy scuffing and traffic.

Yes Ballistol is flammable but so is motor oil. I can spray liquid Ballistol on a match and it puts the flame out. I've also tried to ignite the liquid poured in a pie plate and failed to do that as well.(never tried the aerosol however, but the alcohol carrier might ignite if sprayed on a match)

The flash point of this "flammable" liquid is very high based on my tests. A blow torch ignite it? Maybe, but I never tried that test.

Nice to hear from you again Richard! The wood floor finish might be a good test but it would sure be expensive to do a floor. Two 16oz liquid cans are $25. It's also available in gallons and 55 gal drums but it would be like "liquid gold" in those sizes.

Probably much better products for wood floors. One 16oz liquid can will finish a whole bunch of stocks though.

FWRA

[ February 24, 2002: Message edited by: FWRA ]

Bullet · February 24, 2002, 01:29

What is Ballistol? An oil? Can it be purchased in stores? I just put a walnut stock set from IW on Bulgarian AK and would like that look you obtained.

FWRA · February 24, 2002, 02:21

Quote:

Originally posted by Bullet:
What is Ballistol? An oil? Can it be purchased in stores? I just put a walnut stock set from IW on Bulgarian AK and would like that look you obtained.

Two cans of 16oz liquid w/sprayers $25 shipped to your door.

M/O's only please.

E-mail:
mpowell5@neo.rr.com Include name and address
and "2 cans Ballistol for $25" in the subject area. I'll then e-mail confirmation and give payment instructions.

Go here for more info: http://ballistol.com/product_uses_wood.html

Thanks!

FWRA

[ February 24, 2002: Message edited by: FWRA ]

gunnut1 · February 24, 2002, 07:12

Hey Mark,
Ballistol vs. linseed oil. I am a big fan of Ballistol and of linseed oil. Linseed oil dries and Ballistol doesn't. Don't you get that oily, slick feeling using Ballistol? Linseed oil dies and give the wood a nice texture that is a pleasure to feel. I just don't see that happening with Ballistol as it never dries. You know I love Ballistol and I have started using it over everything else. I just don't know about using it to refinish wood.

Not a slam here! Just curious!

Thanks Mark!

FWRA · February 24, 2002, 11:07

Quote:

Originally posted by gunnut1:
Hey Mark,
Ballistol vs. linseed oil. I am a big fan of Ballistol and of linseed oil. Linseed oil dries and Ballistol doesn't. Don't you get that oily, slick feeling using Ballistol? Linseed oil dies and give the wood a nice texture that is a pleasure to feel. I just don't see that happening with Ballistol as it never dries. You know I love Ballistol and I have started using it over everything else. I just don't know about using it to refinish wood.

Not a slam here! Just curious!

Thanks Mark!

Sure does dry and isn't tacky in the least.
Linseed oil works great and a bunch of other products do too.

Just trying to let you guys know that instead of buying 26 different products to do 26 different things, Ballistol can help you save money by doin' a whole bunch too.

FWRA

[ February 24, 2002: Message edited by: FWRA ]

goose · February 24, 2002, 11:16

Nice look on the stock Mark. You certainly don't waste any time. Is that a flatter finish than the G1

marvl · February 24, 2002, 12:40

OK, how about a photo of your hands after you rub the wood hard enough to get them hot.

FWRA · February 24, 2002, 12:48

Quote:

Originally posted by marvl:
OK, how about a photo of your hands after you rub the wood hard enough to get them hot.

Wood?

Oh...that! Ballistol is a clear liquid so it doesn't stain if that's what you mean. It actually improves the skin on your hands and helps my WECSOG cuts to heal faster. (NOT a drug though! ;-)

FWRA

FWRA · February 24, 2002, 12:51

Quote:

Originally posted by goose:
Nice look on the stock Mark. You certainly don't waste any time. Is that a flatter finish than the G1

Yep, flatter than the G1 you did which is beautiful by the way.

How did you re-finish that one Goose? I've got a mint set of G1 wood handguards on the way and would like to refinish to match yours.

Mark

goose · February 24, 2002, 15:56

Mark sent you a email on my process It gets a little involved. I'll agree with reece the 1/3 combination is a fantastic way to go with every rubbing the wood just gets richer.

[ February 24, 2002: Message edited by: goose ]

FWRA · February 24, 2002, 19:36

Quote:

Originally posted by goose:
Mark sent you a email on my process It gets a little involved. I'll agree with reece the 1/3 combination is a fantastic way to go with every rubbing the wood just gets richer.

[ February 24, 2002: Message edited by: goose ]

Thanks Goose. I printed it out and will try it on the G1 handguards.

FWRA

**big dee** · February 24, 2002, 19:57

But aren't G1 handguards metal?

FWRA · February 24, 2002, 22:51

Quote:

Originally posted by big dee:
But aren't G1 handguards metal?

Yep and the don't take a Ballistol soak well either.

The ones on the way are probably Belgium wood handguards but will be installed on G1 kit. They will be "G1 walnut handguards" in the end.

FWRA

February 23, 2002, 18:40	#1
FWRA Registered FALaholic #: 24 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio Posts: 4,527	Great "military look" walnut stock finishing tip...... I've had great results with Ballistol hand rubbed on my walnut gun stocks. Here is a photo of my latest project, an Ironwood walnut buttstock with one hand rubbed coat of Ballistol. I left the shoulder area natural to show you how well this works. The technique requires rubbing the wood hard with the palm of your hand until it gets hot from friction. I then let it soak in overnight and apply the second coat the same way the next day. After about 8-10 hand rubs, the FAL furniture takes on a nice dark military look without that "glossy" look. This trick taught me by an old guy at a gunshow. Try it.....it works! First coat: Closer: I'll put up a photo of the finished project! Ballistol...... Not just for lubrication. FWRA __________________ FWRA I'm very pleased with each advancing year. It stems back to when I was forty. I was a bit upset about reaching that milestone, but an older friend consoled me. 'Don't complain about growing old - many, many people do not have that privilege.' Earl Warren (1891 - 1974), Chief Justice

February 23, 2002, 20:05	#2
Enquiring Minds Registered FALaholic #: 209 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: "The Venice of America"... FLL... Posts: 4,150	Yep, that's the no-nonsense no-gloss "it's not a Weatherby" mil-issue look I'm after... Any idea how good the moisture/environmental protection is vs. ye olde tung or linseed oils??? __________________ "We live in a gangster state, and our days of laughing at other countries are over." --Matt Taibbi, Rolling Stone

February 23, 2002, 21:03	#3
FWRA Registered FALaholic #: 24 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio Posts: 4,527	EM, Repels water like "raindrops off a ducks back" after about 10 coats. On the Ironwood walnut handguards I also drench the inside with Ballistol and let it sit for 10-15min then wipe of the excess with a Ballistol soaked rag. (Use the liquid Ballistol, not the aerosol which is too diluted by the carrier to be effective) It's really an excellent and weatherproof finish in the end. The trick is to add a coat every 24 hours rubbing it in as described for each application. I'm no fan of glossy wood either, satin or otherwise on a gun. This soft walnut finish is perfect for me. FWRA __________________ FWRA I'm very pleased with each advancing year. It stems back to when I was forty. I was a bit upset about reaching that milestone, but an older friend consoled me. 'Don't complain about growing old - many, many people do not have that privilege.' Earl Warren (1891 - 1974), Chief Justice

February 24, 2002, 07:12	#9
gunnut1 Moderator Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 1877 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: The great Republic of Texas USA!!!!! Posts: 10,422	Hey Mark, Ballistol vs. linseed oil. I am a big fan of Ballistol and of linseed oil. Linseed oil dries and Ballistol doesn't. Don't you get that oily, slick feeling using Ballistol? Linseed oil dies and give the wood a nice texture that is a pleasure to feel. I just don't see that happening with Ballistol as it never dries. You know I love Ballistol and I have started using it over everything else. I just don't know about using it to refinish wood. Not a slam here! Just curious! Thanks Mark! __________________ Texas, it's a state of mind!!!! The human race is not the pinnacle of evolution. We are but one evolutionary out come.

February 24, 2002, 12:40	#12
marvl Registered FALaholic #: 4486 Join Date: Oct 2001 Posts: 319	OK, how about a photo of your hands after you rub the wood hard enough to get them hot. __________________ "Life is uncertain, eat the desserts first!"

February 23, 2002, 23:11	#4
Richard Bird Registered FALaholic #: 189 Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 276	Is Ballistol flammable? Good for hardwood floors?

February 24, 2002, 00:07	#5
recce Registered FALaholic #: 153 Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 865	I use the same hand rub process with my Enfields and F.N's using boiled linseed and finish it off with the old timer favourite of 1/3 turp, 1/3 B.L.O. and 1/3 bee's wax. Very nice old time finish and very weather proof. Best of all, it you do get a scuff or two the wax mix takes care of it pretty damn good. (spelling, yet again) [ February 24, 2002: Message edited by: recce ]

February 24, 2002, 01:29	#7
Bullet Registered FALaholic #: 1795 Join Date: Dec 2000 Posts: 619	What is Ballistol? An oil? Can it be purchased in stores? I just put a walnut stock set from IW on Bulgarian AK and would like that look you obtained.

February 24, 2002, 11:16	#11
goose Registered Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 2267 Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Southern CA Posts: 550	Nice look on the stock Mark. You certainly don't waste any time. Is that a flatter finish than the G1

February 24, 2002, 15:56	#15
goose Registered Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 2267 Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Southern CA Posts: 550	Mark sent you a email on my process It gets a little involved. I'll agree with reece the 1/3 combination is a fantastic way to go with every rubbing the wood just gets richer. [ February 24, 2002: Message edited by: goose ]

February 24, 2002, 19:57	#17
big dee Member Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 2995 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: NJ Posts: 203	But aren't G1 handguards metal?

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