Cracked stocks....

Queenie · March 18, 2002, 23:53

Is there any good way to repair a cracked stock and grip. I stripped my Tapco G1 wood today and found some cracks that had been filled that were hidden under the grime. Is there any kind of glue or filler that will...
1. stop the crack and... 2. Not look like s**t when the finish is applied?
I don't mind too much if it doesn't look perfect. I just want to try and salvage the wood. This kit building is starting to get to be a MONEY HOLE!!

Derby FALs · March 19, 2002, 01:28

Epoxy with dye. Soak the wood in lacquer thinner for a week.

**idsubgun** · March 19, 2002, 07:47

The main thing is to get as much of the oil out of the wood as possible.
I use Brownell's Acra-Glass with dyes to match wood color.
If the crack is at a stress point, such as the ones I've seen on metric pistol grips, you can add brass pins. These look like thin brass screws. You Acra-Glass the wood together and clamp it. Then you drill a hole through crack and chuck pin up in drill and slowly screw it into the hole in the wood.
Brownell's has these also.

Queenie · March 19, 2002, 12:16

Thanks guys. I have already boiled the wood...I think maybe this is what cracked the grip as there was no sign of a crack before. The stock cracks have been filled with something so they were definately there before. I'll need the repair pins and everything. I may put this project on hold for a while. It might be less expensive to just by another set of wood...think I'll "test" the market.

I have a replacement plastic set on the way for another rifle that I can use in the meantime.

ByronF · March 19, 2002, 12:45

I've seen some very nice arsenal repairs on some Garand stocks. They appear to have been somehow glued (probably epoxy), then reenforced with brass screws. Drill holes, then run some long brass screws transverse to the crack line. The screws must have threads the whole length of the shank for max holding power. I'd probably also wipe a light smear of wood glue on the screw. Don't drive the screw in up to the head. Leave some shank exposed so you can cut it off and file it flush with the surface.

To really make it an invisible repair use some glued nails instead so you can seat it below flush with a finishing nail set. Then top off the hole with some wood filler or a roundish splinter of walnut. Maybe a wooden Q-tip stick would work if stained. Nail wouldn't be as strong as a screw but it'd be invisible. You cant seat a screw below flush for obvious reasons.

Byron

Queenie · March 19, 2002, 12:56

I just looked up everything at Brownell's...looks like $40.00 + worth of stuff. Might just have to WECSOG this one.

**okiefarmer** · March 19, 2002, 13:41

Hey guys, speaking of boiling stocks. I did a couple the other day. Have seen the reference to boiling here in past. It did a great job, took out all the nicks and cuts, but,now the stock won't fit. NOT EVEN CLOSE. Pushed up on the rod, the rear tang hits the wood where it should go into the recess. Square shouldered area on front of butt stock is way oversize. Will take a boat load of sanding and sawing to get back to fit. Have I in any way weakened wood by boiling. Even butt plate won't fit.
Okie

Queenie · March 19, 2002, 13:50

okiefarmer...Boiling definately swells the wood. Great for taking out dents but does result in a somewhat "oversized" piece of wood. Personally I like the results. It gives you the opportunity to "handfit" the stock to the lower and buttplate again.

19kilo · March 20, 2002, 09:55

After boiling let it air dry about 5 days in a cool/warm dry environment. Do not set it on your kitchen table in the bright sun next to the heat register. This can and does encourage cracking. Also about the only thing to do if it does swell and you cant get the recoil tube to seat in the BS (ask me how I know) take a cleaning rod with sand paper wrapped around it and start swabbing back and forth.
Tim

March 18, 2002, 23:53	#1
Queenie Registered FALaholic #: 5544 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 1,025	Cracked stocks.... Is there any good way to repair a cracked stock and grip. I stripped my Tapco G1 wood today and found some cracks that had been filled that were hidden under the grime. Is there any kind of glue or filler that will... 1. stop the crack and... 2. Not look like s**t when the finish is applied? I don't mind too much if it doesn't look perfect. I just want to try and salvage the wood. This kit building is starting to get to be a MONEY HOLE!!

March 19, 2002, 01:28	#2
Derby FALs Supreme Leader FALaholic #: 2361 Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Louisville, Kentucky Posts: 2,610	Epoxy with dye. Soak the wood in lacquer thinner for a week. __________________ “Rightful liberty is unobstructed action according to our will within limits drawn around us by the equal rights of others. I do not add "within the limits of the law" because law is often but the tyrant's will, and always so when it violates the rights of the individual.” - Thomas Jefferson Salami, salami, baloney... :bow: http://www.derbyfals.com/home.htm

March 19, 2002, 07:47	#3
idsubgun "Comfortably Numb" Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 3100 Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Idaho Posts: 9,185	The main thing is to get as much of the oil out of the wood as possible. I use Brownell's Acra-Glass with dyes to match wood color. If the crack is at a stress point, such as the ones I've seen on metric pistol grips, you can add brass pins. These look like thin brass screws. You Acra-Glass the wood together and clamp it. Then you drill a hole through crack and chuck pin up in drill and slowly screw it into the hole in the wood. Brownell's has these also. __________________ Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you wish for peace, prepare for war"

March 19, 2002, 13:41	#7
okiefarmer Veteran Member Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 3248 Join Date: May 2001 Location: northern Oklahoma/green country Posts: 1,312	Hey guys, speaking of boiling stocks. I did a couple the other day. Have seen the reference to boiling here in past. It did a great job, took out all the nicks and cuts, but,now the stock won't fit. NOT EVEN CLOSE. Pushed up on the rod, the rear tang hits the wood where it should go into the recess. Square shouldered area on front of butt stock is way oversize. Will take a boat load of sanding and sawing to get back to fit. Have I in any way weakened wood by boiling. Even butt plate won't fit. Okie __________________ "We are told not to judge Muslims based on the actions of a few. I suggest we give millions of responsible American gun owners that same courtesy."

March 20, 2002, 09:55	#9
19kilo Registered FALaholic #: 4778 Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: some socialist subzero hell Posts: 1,191	After boiling let it air dry about 5 days in a cool/warm dry environment. Do not set it on your kitchen table in the bright sun next to the heat register. This can and does encourage cracking. Also about the only thing to do if it does swell and you cant get the recoil tube to seat in the BS (ask me how I know) take a cleaning rod with sand paper wrapped around it and start swabbing back and forth. Tim __________________ "Saddle Up...Tonight We Ride!"

March 19, 2002, 12:16	#4
Queenie Registered FALaholic #: 5544 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 1,025	Thanks guys. I have already boiled the wood...I think maybe this is what cracked the grip as there was no sign of a crack before. The stock cracks have been filled with something so they were definately there before. I'll need the repair pins and everything. I may put this project on hold for a while. It might be less expensive to just by another set of wood...think I'll "test" the market. I have a replacement plastic set on the way for another rifle that I can use in the meantime.

March 19, 2002, 12:45	#5
ByronF Registered FALaholic #: 630 Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: PA Posts: 3,174	I've seen some very nice arsenal repairs on some Garand stocks. They appear to have been somehow glued (probably epoxy), then reenforced with brass screws. Drill holes, then run some long brass screws transverse to the crack line. The screws must have threads the whole length of the shank for max holding power. I'd probably also wipe a light smear of wood glue on the screw. Don't drive the screw in up to the head. Leave some shank exposed so you can cut it off and file it flush with the surface. To really make it an invisible repair use some glued nails instead so you can seat it below flush with a finishing nail set. Then top off the hole with some wood filler or a roundish splinter of walnut. Maybe a wooden Q-tip stick would work if stained. Nail wouldn't be as strong as a screw but it'd be invisible. You cant seat a screw below flush for obvious reasons. Byron

March 19, 2002, 12:56	#6
Queenie Registered FALaholic #: 5544 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 1,025	I just looked up everything at Brownell's...looks like $40.00 + worth of stuff. Might just have to WECSOG this one.

March 19, 2002, 13:50	#8
Queenie Registered FALaholic #: 5544 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 1,025	okiefarmer...Boiling definately swells the wood. Great for taking out dents but does result in a somewhat "oversized" piece of wood. Personally I like the results. It gives you the opportunity to "handfit" the stock to the lower and buttplate again.

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