What is anti seize? re: re-barrelling receivers.

[farranger]

What is anti-seize that they are talking about in a previous post regarding re-barrelling receivers. thanks

[Offctr]

It is a "molybendiumdisulfide" grease usually found at autoparts stores as "Anti-seize" in small cap brush bottles sometimes it has a copper additive but it is usually white for the most part Just ask for anti seize they'll point it right out. about 2.99

[av8tor]

usually a soft paste made with copper or sometimes lead, its applied to the threads or sometimes on a shaft to prevent the parts from seizing up.

Av

[Andy the Aussie]

Or it is a medication that some of us take to stop us curling up into a little ball on the floor...pisssing our pants and chewing our tounges off...

Ok...everyone but me is right..

Andy

[av8tor]

LOL @ andy
Av

[W.E.G.]

Brownells stock number 100-000-280
$4.95

ULTRA LUBE ANTI SEIZE - High temperature formula in a non-messy, easy-to-use stick. For use anytime threads have a tendency to stick or gall. Ideal for use on choke tubes, muzzle brakes, barrels, auto pistol slides and automatic weapon mechanisms.
SPECS: 0.15 oz. (4.25 g) stick.

[RufusG]

The stuff we called antiseize in the boat business was Permatex #33 (available in different size packages at any auto parts store). It's a silver paste that would pretty much prevent any threaded connections from seizing, even if they lived in saltwater. If this is equivalent, it should be cheaper than ordering from Brownell's.

[Offctr]

Yeah thats the same as the stuff that the auto parts places sell the High temp blend has a copper tint wihthe regular having a white or silvery tint to it. I cant believe brownells is selling it in .15 oz size probably 5.99 + shipping.
use it sparingly it has a tendency to get everywhere if applied too libreally one of the good things about it is it makes barrels easy (well easier ) to get off of the reciever later on if you need to disassemble or change something and if you are just an enth shy of timing it will probably make a diffrence. Used it for many many things working on cars for years --great stuff!

[Radio]

"Anti-seize" is a special stuff I spray all over my guns so the JBT's won't be able to take them away.

I'd only buy the Brownell's stuff if I were rich. Much cheaper to go into your local NAPA store and pick up some good old Permatex anti-seize. Probably half the price and maybe even a bigger tube.

--Radio

[eodinert]

I've noticed some builders use loctite, while some builders (Or, manufacturers, I should say) use Anti-seize. These two items seem to perform nearly opposite functions. What gives?

Doug

[Radio]

I can tell you exactly why I use anti-seize exclusively, and take a stab at why others go in the other direction with Locktite.

I decided to get into this (FALs) for the long haul (which is not an unintentional pun on my current occupation). I plan to shoot out the barrels of my rifles, then replace the old barrels with new ones. "LONG haul," my friend. By that time years may have passed, years that the barrel has been sneakily gluing its way into the receiver through stress, heat and operating residue. While a rebarrelling 15 years from now may not be a snap, it will certainly be easier having used the anti-seize than if I had installed the original barrel dry or secured it with Locktite.

Gunplumber has told us the reason why he uses Locktite: as a proof-of-tampering security measure against customers unscrewing a barrel from a kit he's assembled, fiddling with the rifle, then later claiming "problems" with Mark's work. As for others who use Locktite, my guess is they are more concerned with insuring their barrels are SECURELY mated to their receivers, than worrying about removing those barrels later.

And... perhaps those who install them dry are attempting to strike a balance between the above examples by counting on good old-fashioned mechanical interference to assemble their rifles.

The issue you ultimately determine is most important to you, will influence how you decide to barrel your receivers-- with anti-seize, dry or Locktite.

--Radio

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"Can not say. Saying, I would know. Do not know, so can not say." --Zathras

[ August 27, 2001: Message edited by: Radio ]

[zoom]

Years ago, I worked in a textile mill. We put bolts on looms using both anti-seize and red loctite. The op manual for the looms said to use anti-seize to keep the bolts from fusing (yes, that's the word it used) to the nuts and to use loctite to keep the bolts in place. In other words, anti-seize kept the iron atoms in each part from banging into each other and sharing electrons (a cold-weld). Also, it protected the metal against rust. Looms are some of the most violently operating machines in existence, and the bolts stayed tight and they weren't overly hard to remove when needed. It worked for us.

Two more points of data, on large trucks you always put anti-seize on lugnuts. You don't see many wheels falling off of trucks so anti-seize apparently doesn't cause it to loosen. Also, most bolts used to mount mufflers have anti-seize applied to them.

One thing to remember when using anti-seize is that you don't need to use as much torque. We used a chart to tell us how much to derate the torque for each size bolt and threading when using anti-seize. The anti-seize makes it very easy to over torque the screw and strip the threads and/or break the bolt. In other words, if we were supposed to apply 100 ft/lbs of torque on a bolt, we actually would only apply about (to pick a number out of the air) 70 ft/lbs if we used anti-seize compound.

With all of that said, I'm going to only use loctite on my G1. The metal in my receiver and barrel are not stainless, so anti-seize isn't needed that badly. The loctite should make the threads air tight enough.

On a related topic, we used brake cleaner then starting fluid (ether) to remove the old anti-seize compound and loctite. It seemed to work well.

If anyone knows more about this, then feel free to correct me. I'm speaking from experience rather than from real knowledge.