FSE folding Charing handle - no go?

Rivaltm · August 13, 2006, 01:55

Just received an FSE Folding charging handle (metric version), which doesn't seem to fit my Imbel receiver...

It utterly refuses to slide in more than 1/2" or so - and its not that it's too "Tall"

Is this an issue worth sending it back for, or should i just get at it with a file ?

Also seem to have a gas regulator ring that's too small in diameter to fit the gas block? It's scraping Gunkote off when I get it screwed into the block as soon as the front edge of the ring meets the block... this was a noticeably hard part to remove before the refinish - is it possible that it's out of spec somehow? Is this another file worthy item?

Finally, in the fray I misplaced my gas tube pin. Someone mentioned a piece of coat hanger working? If that fails, where can I get a pin (that won't cost $8 hopefully). Also, what's the procedure for the long tube installation - screw it all the way in and then back it out until the pin fits through the missing threads? (my other FAL has the short soldered tube)

I don't know if any of you guys remember the big Imbel receiver distaster I posted about 4 or so months back, but that rifle is FINALLY Getting completed. with the exception of the handguard ring, everything's gunkoted, all the US parts are in it - Just need to measure HS and get a locking shoulder for the beast and I'll be ready for a test fire...

anybody willing to lend out a set of pin gauges?

Lots of questions, but they should be simple enough for you guys

**mhobtr** · August 13, 2006, 06:28

I have installed both Tapco and FSE cocking handles which had to be filed to get a proper fit. I also had an Imbel receiver which had a slight bow in the upper rail which had to be filed.

I have one gas nut which is really tight and difficult to turn even with a wrench. Three others I have turn easily. I checked the pin and it is not causing the interference. I am going to try one of the other nuts on this rifle to determine if it is the nut or the gas block then I will use emery cloth.

The base of a broken drill bit will make a good replacement pin.

**mhobtr** · August 13, 2006, 06:33

I forgot to add this. You can use drill bits if you can't find a pin guage set. Harbor Freight sells some sets which are a lot cheaper than a guage set so if you are not going to build a lot of rifles, you might consider that.

**mhobtr** · August 13, 2006, 13:41

I solved my gas nut problem. It appears that someone used a punch which was too large to drive the pin resulting in a bulge in the metal. A few strokes with a file and the nut works fine.

thinice · August 13, 2006, 16:52

I had the same issue with a FSE metric folding handle on a DSA receiver. I had to sand down the length of the charging handle where if sits flat against the receiver. Belt sander held in a vice with fine grit paper, just a little bit at a time.

**W.E.G.** · August 13, 2006, 19:20

Quote:

Originally posted by Rivaltm
Also seem to have a gas regulator ring that's too small in diameter to fit the gas block? It's scraping Gunkote off when I get it screwed into the block as soon as the front edge of the ring meets the block... this was a noticeably hard part to remove before the refinish - is it possible that it's out of spec somehow? Is this another file worthy item?

Gas knobs can be tight. If it has to scrape off the gunkote, then so be it. If it is still tight, lap in place with some JB Bore Paste until it turns without difficulty.

Quote:

Originally posted by Rivaltm
Finally, in the fray I misplaced my gas tube pin. Someone mentioned a piece of coat hanger working? If that fails, where can I get a pin (that won't cost $8 hopefully). Also, what's the procedure for the long tube installation - screw it all the way in and then back it out until the pin fits through the missing threads? (my other FAL has the short soldered tube)

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...hreadid=128881
and
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...threadid=88444

Rivaltm · August 13, 2006, 22:02

alright good to know i can save a few $$ by using coat hanger

the gas nut is hopelessly tight - i'd need a gas nut wrench to get it on all the way, and even then the out look isn't great. I've got another one coming, so maybe that'll do it. The one i have on hand didn't have numbers on it anyway

I'll hang on to it as a spare

The charging handle is giving me fits. I've sanded the living daylights out of both sides of the center and it still hangs up about 3/4 of the way in. For a $55 item, this much fitting shouldn't be required. I considered sending it back but now that i've sanded, it's mine for good.

gunnut1 · August 14, 2006, 07:35

Take some 400 grit sand paper and polish the boss that the gas regulator sits on and the inside of the gas regultor also. It will take a little time but this will work. You might still have bulge in the pin hole also.

Or you can use Gary's method.

**mhobtr** · August 14, 2006, 09:21

If you have a bulge at the pin hole like I did, you must use a file or sand paper on a hard flat block to cut down the high spot.

Mine was so tight a spanner wrench would not turn it. I had to use channel lock pliers so it got pretty buggered up and ended up in the parts box as a backup.

The new one was tight also but after I filed the bulge, it turns easily, just like my others.

steveo539 · August 14, 2006, 14:01

I just received two more Imbel parts kits and spent an evening cleaning the cosmolene off so I could see just what I had. I felt like a proud momma dog cleaning up her new pups (insert bitch jokes here). Both kits had extremly tight gas regulators. Had to cover with a rag and remove with pliers (Yes, I took off the spring). Upon inspection I could see where the interferance was. The gas setting numbers stamped into the nut had created high spots in the internal thread of the nut. wondered about chasing the threads with a tap but I couldn't find the thread pitch on the list. This may be what you're up against too. Anyone know the thread pitch and where to get a tap? Maybe new regulators would be more economical.

Steve

Rivaltm · August 14, 2006, 19:19

this one isn't even stamped with numbers

But I'm gonna get a set of files (can't find my small set right now...) and finish that CH (got a long ways with 220 grit paper). Gas ring on the way will be tested, and if I still have a problem, I suppose it'll be time to break out the sandpaper again

evan price · August 15, 2006, 22:48

I've got a Century built rifle, I can turn the gas knob with my thumb as easy as changing focus on binoculars. Took handguards off and the spring was there & everything looked fine, it still clicks when you turn it. Whereas the Imbel kits I've got you need a gas nut tool or screwdriver to spin them.

gunnut1 · August 16, 2006, 00:45

Quote:

this one isn't even stamped with numbers

The numbers on the gas regulator mean nothing. They are merely a reference point so you can return to the same setting. I very seldom glance at them. I set the gas regulator and forget it.

**gunplumber** · August 16, 2006, 10:14

Quote:

Originally posted by gunnut1

The numbers on the gas regulator mean nothing. They are merely a reference point so you can return to the same setting. I very seldom glance at them. I set the gas regulator and forget it.

Belgium regulators don't have numbers - just a 3-pointed star at the 1 position.

Rivaltm · August 16, 2006, 18:56

i don't use the numbers much either, but someone mentioned the stamped numbers had interfered with the threads

weren't the earlier belgian rings numbered? i have an FN StG kit that IIRC does have numbers.

**gunplumber** · August 16, 2006, 19:34

Quote:

Originally posted by Rivaltm
i don't use the numbers much either, but someone mentioned the stamped numbers had interfered with the threads

weren't the earlier belgian rings numbered? i have an FN StG kit that IIRC does have numbers.

perhaps it was an austrian contract request for numbers. I believe all the austrians are numbered, but I have seen many (all?) the belgium that were not.

I've seen izzy both ways

Rivaltm · August 17, 2006, 06:45

good to know - i'll have to try to remember that

I'll have to check my G1 ring and compare it to the FN StG I have - there's still a chance that the regulator ring on that kit was a replacement from Steyr

Rivaltm · August 23, 2006, 18:58

So i just got my new ring in the mail, It's either FN or Steyr numbered version - and it actually fits and screws onto the block. It's tighter than my StG and i'll need the wrench I ordered to get it much past "3", but at least it fits up.

I used the hanger trick for a gas tube pin, and as of now, my gas system is complete.

The Charging handle has gotten alot better after a lot of filing, but its still a bit tight - just have to gather the patience to finish filing it down, and then blast/refinish it. Unless I'm forgetting something, that SHOULD be everything other than the locking shoulder. I have a set of pin gages on my way for that, as well.

all in all, I think I have another two weeks before this thing should be finished - I'l have about $800 in an Imbel/ Imbel rifle - maybe a bit much, but I also didn't use cheap parts

Not sure if this one will stay with me or not - wonder what i could get out of it..

August 13, 2006, 01:55	#1
Rivaltm Registered FALaholic #: 10402 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 1,420	FSE folding Charing handle - no go? Just received an FSE Folding charging handle (metric version), which doesn't seem to fit my Imbel receiver... It utterly refuses to slide in more than 1/2" or so - and its not that it's too "Tall" Is this an issue worth sending it back for, or should i just get at it with a file ? Also seem to have a gas regulator ring that's too small in diameter to fit the gas block? It's scraping Gunkote off when I get it screwed into the block as soon as the front edge of the ring meets the block... this was a noticeably hard part to remove before the refinish - is it possible that it's out of spec somehow? Is this another file worthy item? Finally, in the fray I misplaced my gas tube pin. Someone mentioned a piece of coat hanger working? If that fails, where can I get a pin (that won't cost $8 hopefully). Also, what's the procedure for the long tube installation - screw it all the way in and then back it out until the pin fits through the missing threads? (my other FAL has the short soldered tube) I don't know if any of you guys remember the big Imbel receiver distaster I posted about 4 or so months back, but that rifle is FINALLY Getting completed. with the exception of the handguard ring, everything's gunkoted, all the US parts are in it - Just need to measure HS and get a locking shoulder for the beast and I'll be ready for a test fire... anybody willing to lend out a set of pin gauges? Lots of questions, but they should be simple enough for you guys __________________ US Constitution Copyright 1790 ALL rights reserved!

August 13, 2006, 22:02	#7
Rivaltm Registered FALaholic #: 10402 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 1,420	alright good to know i can save a few $$ by using coat hanger the gas nut is hopelessly tight - i'd need a gas nut wrench to get it on all the way, and even then the out look isn't great. I've got another one coming, so maybe that'll do it. The one i have on hand didn't have numbers on it anyway I'll hang on to it as a spare The charging handle is giving me fits. I've sanded the living daylights out of both sides of the center and it still hangs up about 3/4 of the way in. For a $55 item, this much fitting shouldn't be required. I considered sending it back but now that i've sanded, it's mine for good. __________________ US Constitution Copyright 1790 ALL rights reserved!

August 14, 2006, 07:35	#8
gunnut1 Moderator Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 1877 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: The great Republic of Texas USA!!!!! Posts: 10,429	Take some 400 grit sand paper and polish the boss that the gas regulator sits on and the inside of the gas regultor also. It will take a little time but this will work. You might still have bulge in the pin hole also. Or you can use Gary's method. __________________ Texas, it's a state of mind!!!! The human race is not the pinnacle of evolution. We are but one evolutionary out come.

August 14, 2006, 19:19	#11
Rivaltm Registered FALaholic #: 10402 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 1,420	this one isn't even stamped with numbers But I'm gonna get a set of files (can't find my small set right now...) and finish that CH (got a long ways with 220 grit paper). Gas ring on the way will be tested, and if I still have a problem, I suppose it'll be time to break out the sandpaper again __________________ US Constitution Copyright 1790 ALL rights reserved!

August 15, 2006, 22:48	#12
evan price Registered FALaholic #: 20480 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: THE source for Ohio CCW => http://ohioccwforums.org/ Posts: 2,122	I've got a Century built rifle, I can turn the gas knob with my thumb as easy as changing focus on binoculars. Took handguards off and the spring was there & everything looked fine, it still clicks when you turn it. Whereas the Imbel kits I've got you need a gas nut tool or screwdriver to spin them. __________________ http://www.ohioccwforums.org/ Ohio's best CCW resource!

August 13, 2006, 06:28	#2
mhobtr Member Contributor Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 20291 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 337	I have installed both Tapco and FSE cocking handles which had to be filed to get a proper fit. I also had an Imbel receiver which had a slight bow in the upper rail which had to be filed. I have one gas nut which is really tight and difficult to turn even with a wrench. Three others I have turn easily. I checked the pin and it is not causing the interference. I am going to try one of the other nuts on this rifle to determine if it is the nut or the gas block then I will use emery cloth. The base of a broken drill bit will make a good replacement pin.

August 13, 2006, 06:33	#3
mhobtr Member Contributor Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 20291 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 337	I forgot to add this. You can use drill bits if you can't find a pin guage set. Harbor Freight sells some sets which are a lot cheaper than a guage set so if you are not going to build a lot of rifles, you might consider that.

August 13, 2006, 13:41	#4
mhobtr Member Contributor Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 20291 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 337	I solved my gas nut problem. It appears that someone used a punch which was too large to drive the pin resulting in a bulge in the metal. A few strokes with a file and the nut works fine.

August 13, 2006, 16:52	#5
thinice Registered FALaholic #: 15102 Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 14	I had the same issue with a FSE metric folding handle on a DSA receiver. I had to sand down the length of the charging handle where if sits flat against the receiver. Belt sander held in a vice with fine grit paper, just a little bit at a time.

August 14, 2006, 09:21	#9
mhobtr Member Contributor Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 20291 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 337	If you have a bulge at the pin hole like I did, you must use a file or sand paper on a hard flat block to cut down the high spot. Mine was so tight a spanner wrench would not turn it. I had to use channel lock pliers so it got pretty buggered up and ended up in the parts box as a backup. The new one was tight also but after I filed the bulge, it turns easily, just like my others.

August 14, 2006, 14:01	#10
steveo539 Registered FALaholic #: 18190 Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 394	I just received two more Imbel parts kits and spent an evening cleaning the cosmolene off so I could see just what I had. I felt like a proud momma dog cleaning up her new pups (insert bitch jokes here). Both kits had extremly tight gas regulators. Had to cover with a rag and remove with pliers (Yes, I took off the spring). Upon inspection I could see where the interferance was. The gas setting numbers stamped into the nut had created high spots in the internal thread of the nut. wondered about chasing the threads with a tap but I couldn't find the thread pitch on the list. This may be what you're up against too. Anyone know the thread pitch and where to get a tap? Maybe new regulators would be more economical. Steve

August 16, 2006, 18:56	#15
Rivaltm Registered FALaholic #: 10402 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 1,420	i don't use the numbers much either, but someone mentioned the stamped numbers had interfered with the threads weren't the earlier belgian rings numbered? i have an FN StG kit that IIRC does have numbers. __________________ US Constitution Copyright 1790 ALL rights reserved!

August 17, 2006, 06:45	#17
Rivaltm Registered FALaholic #: 10402 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 1,420	good to know - i'll have to try to remember that I'll have to check my G1 ring and compare it to the FN StG I have - there's still a chance that the regulator ring on that kit was a replacement from Steyr __________________ US Constitution Copyright 1790 ALL rights reserved!

August 23, 2006, 18:58	#18
Rivaltm Registered FALaholic #: 10402 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 1,420	So i just got my new ring in the mail, It's either FN or Steyr numbered version - and it actually fits and screws onto the block. It's tighter than my StG and i'll need the wrench I ordered to get it much past "3", but at least it fits up. I used the hanger trick for a gas tube pin, and as of now, my gas system is complete. The Charging handle has gotten alot better after a lot of filing, but its still a bit tight - just have to gather the patience to finish filing it down, and then blast/refinish it. Unless I'm forgetting something, that SHOULD be everything other than the locking shoulder. I have a set of pin gages on my way for that, as well. all in all, I think I have another two weeks before this thing should be finished - I'l have about $800 in an Imbel/ Imbel rifle - maybe a bit much, but I also didn't use cheap parts Not sure if this one will stay with me or not - wonder what i could get out of it.. __________________ US Constitution Copyright 1790 ALL rights reserved!

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