Silver Solder Recommendation

daimok · February 22, 2001, 21:12

I am about to try to silver solder for the first time, any hints or tricks ? is the heat needed going to be so high as to fry the surrounding parkerizing ? do i need a special mix to keep the batf happy ? Do i heat , solder the threads and then screw the brake on real fast ?
tia
daimok

[ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: gary.jeter ]

55bird · February 22, 2001, 22:54

Yes I've been curious of that.I am told the A/C type (15%silver) is excellent.Do you allow the barrel to cool naturally or quench it?What if any finish will it take or is it necessary.Prep work? Treatment prior to or after heating?

Nwfal · February 22, 2001, 23:04

Get the paste from brownells. I think you must have a certain melting point to be legal.Regular silver solder will not do. I done 3 and all you do is heat the brake till its a little red all around and let it cool.

Mike A · February 23, 2001, 03:47

1,100 degrees minimum melting point by BATFags ruling. Fusion paste solder from Brownell's meets and exceeds that standard.

Cheers,
Mike

------------------

“Molon Labe"
["Come and get them"]
- Leonidas to Xerxes at the Battle of Thermopylae when
told to lay down their arms and they would be spared.

moamike@ix.netcom.com

sixplusone · February 23, 2001, 11:22

[ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: sixplusone ]

Big Johnson · February 23, 2001, 12:10

I bought a canister of Brownell's Silver Fusion Paste. Worked well. The instructions I got off this board said the canister was good for 10 uses and was messy. Well I suppose if you divided the canister up into 10 equal portions and used that amount on your rifle, you have a mess too. I just put a little on a screwdriver blade and mushed it onto the barrel threads evenly, removed the excess, screwed on the muzzle brake, hung it from the garage door opener with a coat hanger with the muzzle down and torched the thread area with a can of MAPP gas. I got a lot of paste left, eMail me if you want to make a deal...

------------------
OK Sarge, I volunteer to throw the demolition pack on the back of that tank, you run out front and get it's attention...

Big Johnson · February 23, 2001, 14:50

As an added note: The two brakes I put on had different finishes, the first had a lite blueing and was noticably discolored afterward (no quenching, might do bad things to the barrel) the second was new park and had no visual change after it cooled. I suppose if you torched it with the brake up, the solder would run down the barrel, but with the brake down it gets trapped in the brake.

**MK ULTRA** · February 23, 2001, 21:02

1: Clean all surfaces of parkerising. Surfaces must be metal to metal and clean and dry.

2: You must use MAPP Gass and get barrel to where it just starts to get red. The flux will get dry then get fluid and clear. When the flux gets clear and fluid thats when the temp is correct.

3: Let barrel cool naturally. Rince all parts off with water and dry in a 200 degree oven.

4: Good luck......I have silver soldered many times at work and it is not easy. It gets the barrel too hot. I would get it spot welded on the bottom.

------------------
Improvise, Adapt, Overcome.....
My Opinion.......MK ULTRA......OUT

Rule .308 · February 24, 2001, 09:04

The Brownells' fusion paste works very well. I simply wire wheeled the finish off the barrel and out of the brake so it was bare metal,coated the barrel threads with enough paste to cover the threads but not so much as to make a mess, indexed my brake, positioned my barrel so it angled down, heated with mapp gas until it glowed a dull red, let cool, and it was a done deal. I used some of their heat control paste and it worked nicely but was probably over kill. I bead blasted it back to the barrel band and reparked the end of it and it was better than new.

Rule .308

sixplusone · February 24, 2001, 18:02

Rule .308 I like the Heat dam idea. I've silver soldered a ton of saw blades 3/4 " ..
Clean of all oil. Heat with torch in a circular path a'round the Bbl. heat evenly and especially very slowly; you want 1100 deg. all around not 1300 on one side. I was using 85% or something. Watch the flux clears , then almost glows... try two mild steel tests first, pry apart when done; (with test). G Luck

winder · February 25, 2001, 04:37

Does the silver solder get liquid enough as to run all over, or does it contain itself? How can you remove excess that may endup elsewhere?

**W.E.G.** · September 10, 2001, 20:37

moved to FAQ

February 22, 2001, 21:12	#1
daimok Registered FALaholic #: 175 Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 337	Silver Solder Recommendation I am about to try to silver solder for the first time, any hints or tricks ? is the heat needed going to be so high as to fry the surrounding parkerizing ? do i need a special mix to keep the batf happy ? Do i heat , solder the threads and then screw the brake on real fast ? tia daimok [ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: gary.jeter ]

February 22, 2001, 22:54	#2
55bird Registered FALaholic #: 799 Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Tampa,Fl,U.S.A. Posts: 1,041	Yes I've been curious of that.I am told the A/C type (15%silver) is excellent.Do you allow the barrel to cool naturally or quench it?What if any finish will it take or is it necessary.Prep work? Treatment prior to or after heating? __________________ The very things my grade school teachers of the 1960's warned me about communism,my government is today:skull:

February 23, 2001, 03:47	#4
Mike A Registered FALaholic #: 79 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: WA State Posts: 25	1,100 degrees minimum melting point by BATFags ruling. Fusion paste solder from Brownell's meets and exceeds that standard. Cheers, Mike ------------------ “Molon Labe" ["Come and get them"] - Leonidas to Xerxes at the Battle of Thermopylae when told to lay down their arms and they would be spared. moamike@ix.netcom.com __________________ “Molon Labe" ["Come and get them"] - Leonidas to Xerxes at the Battle of Thermopylae when told to lay down their arms and they would be spared. moamike@comcast.net

February 23, 2001, 12:10	#6
Big Johnson Registered FALaholic #: 1715 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Indianapolis, IN USA Posts: 191	I bought a canister of Brownell's Silver Fusion Paste. Worked well. The instructions I got off this board said the canister was good for 10 uses and was messy. Well I suppose if you divided the canister up into 10 equal portions and used that amount on your rifle, you have a mess too. I just put a little on a screwdriver blade and mushed it onto the barrel threads evenly, removed the excess, screwed on the muzzle brake, hung it from the garage door opener with a coat hanger with the muzzle down and torched the thread area with a can of MAPP gas. I got a lot of paste left, eMail me if you want to make a deal... ------------------ OK Sarge, I volunteer to throw the demolition pack on the back of that tank, you run out front and get it's attention... __________________ OK Sarge, I volunteer to throw the demolition pack on the back of that tank, you run out front and get it's attention...

February 23, 2001, 14:50	#7
Big Johnson Registered FALaholic #: 1715 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Indianapolis, IN USA Posts: 191	As an added note: The two brakes I put on had different finishes, the first had a lite blueing and was noticably discolored afterward (no quenching, might do bad things to the barrel) the second was new park and had no visual change after it cooled. I suppose if you torched it with the brake up, the solder would run down the barrel, but with the brake down it gets trapped in the brake. __________________ OK Sarge, I volunteer to throw the demolition pack on the back of that tank, you run out front and get it's attention...

February 22, 2001, 23:04	#3
Nwfal Registered FALaholic #: 1837 Join Date: Dec 2000 Posts: 28	Get the paste from brownells. I think you must have a certain melting point to be legal.Regular silver solder will not do. I done 3 and all you do is heat the brake till its a little red all around and let it cool.

February 23, 2001, 11:22	#5
sixplusone Registered FALaholic #: 2667 Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: NE Oregon Posts: 489	[ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: sixplusone ]

February 23, 2001, 21:02	#8
MK ULTRA Curio & Relic Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 2382 Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 3,315	1: Clean all surfaces of parkerising. Surfaces must be metal to metal and clean and dry. 2: You must use MAPP Gass and get barrel to where it just starts to get red. The flux will get dry then get fluid and clear. When the flux gets clear and fluid thats when the temp is correct. 3: Let barrel cool naturally. Rince all parts off with water and dry in a 200 degree oven. 4: Good luck......I have silver soldered many times at work and it is not easy. It gets the barrel too hot. I would get it spot welded on the bottom. ------------------ Improvise, Adapt, Overcome..... My Opinion.......MK ULTRA......OUT __________________ O $HIT MK ULTRA.....OUT..... They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin, Statesman and Inventor: 1759 Improvise, Adapt, Overcome.....

February 24, 2001, 09:04	#9
Rule .308 Registered FALaholic #: 51 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: fountain valley, ca Posts: 450	The Brownells' fusion paste works very well. I simply wire wheeled the finish off the barrel and out of the brake so it was bare metal,coated the barrel threads with enough paste to cover the threads but not so much as to make a mess, indexed my brake, positioned my barrel so it angled down, heated with mapp gas until it glowed a dull red, let cool, and it was a done deal. I used some of their heat control paste and it worked nicely but was probably over kill. I bead blasted it back to the barrel band and reparked the end of it and it was better than new. Rule .308 __________________ Rule .308

February 24, 2001, 18:02	#10
sixplusone Registered FALaholic #: 2667 Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: NE Oregon Posts: 489	Rule .308 I like the Heat dam idea. I've silver soldered a ton of saw blades 3/4 " .. Clean of all oil. Heat with torch in a circular path a'round the Bbl. heat evenly and especially very slowly; you want 1100 deg. all around not 1300 on one side. I was using 85% or something. Watch the flux clears , then almost glows... try two mild steel tests first, pry apart when done; (with test). G Luck

February 25, 2001, 04:37	#11
winder Registered FALaholic #: 845 Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 70	Does the silver solder get liquid enough as to run all over, or does it contain itself? How can you remove excess that may endup elsewhere?

September 10, 2001, 20:37	#12
W.E.G. Administrator Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 1211 Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Virginia Posts: 31,109	moved to FAQ __________________ . . . Ask me about the Mason-Dixon FAL Collectors Association.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode