Italian Garand Stock

Steelcore_7.62 · January 24, 2006, 17:47

I have an unissued Italian Garand stock set. It appears to have the same dimensions and inletting that my SA stock has when I compare them side by side. When I try to use this stock on my SA M-1 and put the trigger group in, it will not lock into place. Since there is a possibility that this is a .308 stock, how can I tell if this stock is for the Italian .308 Garand?

I'm not real anxious to go cutting this stock to fit even if it is for the standard M-1. But if I did want to add some inletting to get it to work, what area would be most likely to prevent the trigger group from locking in? Is this a job for the pro's.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Darrell

mj2evans · January 25, 2006, 16:50

Will the trigger group slide in without the recevier in place? I am trying to identify if its trigger area inletting issue or receiver issue. You have the hammer cocked and on safe?

Steelcore_7.62 · January 25, 2006, 21:47

Thanks for the response. The trigger group goes in fine with or without the receiver in the stock. The trigger guard closes until the very tip is even with the trigger and then it stops solidly.

I just compared how far the receiver legs stick out of the bottom of the stock and on my SA stock they stick out about 1/16" farther than on the Italian stock. The receiver legs sit flush with the bottom of the stock on the Italian. I guess the next question is: Which surface would one want to mill? Top (receiver contact area) or bottom (trigger group contact area)?

Thanks,
Darrell

Da Nerd · January 25, 2006, 21:51

I would remove from the trigger group area on the bottom.
It takes VERY LITTLE to make it fit.
Of course you should have some resistance in closing the trigger guard.
At least removing it from that area would be easier to replace if we are talking the two same places.

Steelcore_7.62 · January 26, 2006, 21:10

I removed just enough wood that the trigger guard now closes with some effort. It went from no way at all to nice tight closing quite quickly. I used a cross-cut file to slowly bring the sides down and maintained the original angles. Now I just need to get out the linseed oil and get the exposed bare wood to match the rest. Thanks again for the very helpful advice.

Cheers,
Darrell

January 24, 2006, 17:47	#1
Steelcore_7.62 Registered FALaholic #: 6617 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Redneck Riviera, Florida Posts: 337	Italian Garand Stock I have an unissued Italian Garand stock set. It appears to have the same dimensions and inletting that my SA stock has when I compare them side by side. When I try to use this stock on my SA M-1 and put the trigger group in, it will not lock into place. Since there is a possibility that this is a .308 stock, how can I tell if this stock is for the Italian .308 Garand? I'm not real anxious to go cutting this stock to fit even if it is for the standard M-1. But if I did want to add some inletting to get it to work, what area would be most likely to prevent the trigger group from locking in? Is this a job for the pro's. Any assistance would be appreciated. Cheers, Darrell __________________ "I've got 'em right where I want 'em--surrounded from the inside."-SFC Jerry "Mad Dog" Shriver, MACV-SOG (MIA)

January 25, 2006, 21:47	#3
Steelcore_7.62 Registered FALaholic #: 6617 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Redneck Riviera, Florida Posts: 337	Thanks for the response. The trigger group goes in fine with or without the receiver in the stock. The trigger guard closes until the very tip is even with the trigger and then it stops solidly. I just compared how far the receiver legs stick out of the bottom of the stock and on my SA stock they stick out about 1/16" farther than on the Italian stock. The receiver legs sit flush with the bottom of the stock on the Italian. I guess the next question is: Which surface would one want to mill? Top (receiver contact area) or bottom (trigger group contact area)? Thanks, Darrell __________________ "I've got 'em right where I want 'em--surrounded from the inside."-SFC Jerry "Mad Dog" Shriver, MACV-SOG (MIA)

January 25, 2006, 21:51	#4
Da Nerd Registered FALaholic #: 10960 Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 3,022	I would remove from the trigger group area on the bottom. It takes VERY LITTLE to make it fit. Of course you should have some resistance in closing the trigger guard. At least removing it from that area would be easier to replace if we are talking the two same places. __________________ BigBob :fal: "April 10th 2006 will go down in history as the day the USA gave up with out a fight."

January 26, 2006, 21:10	#5
Steelcore_7.62 Registered FALaholic #: 6617 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Redneck Riviera, Florida Posts: 337	I removed just enough wood that the trigger guard now closes with some effort. It went from no way at all to nice tight closing quite quickly. I used a cross-cut file to slowly bring the sides down and maintained the original angles. Now I just need to get out the linseed oil and get the exposed bare wood to match the rest. Thanks again for the very helpful advice. Cheers, Darrell __________________ "I've got 'em right where I want 'em--surrounded from the inside."-SFC Jerry "Mad Dog" Shriver, MACV-SOG (MIA)

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January 25, 2006, 16:50	#2
mj2evans Registered FALaholic #: 11922 Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 1,084	Will the trigger group slide in without the recevier in place? I am trying to identify if its trigger area inletting issue or receiver issue. You have the hammer cocked and on safe?