BEST COLD BLUE AVAILABLE????

FC-BEAVERS · January 22, 2006, 15:31

Ok im tired of trying the BirchwoodCasey Cold blue because in my opinion IT DOES NOT WORK. I have followed their instructions exactly and it turns out like crap. At first i thought it was me but then a buddy of mine tired the same thing and had the same outcome. What type of cold blue do yall recomend. Or what is the best one.

ftierson · January 22, 2006, 15:52

Birchwood Casey makes a lot of great products. Their Synthetic Gun Oil and Sheath immediately come to mind, and I use both of them a lot.

As you state, their Gun Blue has to be the worst crap ever invented for blueing. My experience with it mirrors yours. Essentially, it never works...

The best cold blueing products include the following three, all available from Brownells:

Dicropan T
Oxpho-Blue
Formula 44/40

Get any of these and you should be pretty happy with the results...

Keep in mind that all cold blues are essentially designed for touch-up use, and not for the blueing of entire firearms.

Forrest

gunnut1 · January 22, 2006, 16:19

Brownell's OXYPHO Blue is great stuff. I will work over light rust but it works the best if the metal is bare. And it is tough.

CZ-75a · January 22, 2006, 17:11

Buy the Oxpho paste for touch-up and the liquid to soak small parts in.

Lon Moer · January 22, 2006, 17:37

Brownell's Oxpho Blue paste

Valkyrie0002 · January 22, 2006, 19:10

I have had great results with Oxpho-blu on many rifles. I use it on my G1s and Milsurps. Only had a couple spots where it would not blue well. Have heard it helps to heat the metal a little. After applying, rub with steel wool, reapply and rub some more.

Regal Beagal · January 22, 2006, 19:10

Once Again... Brownell's Oxpho Blue.

ThePreacher · January 22, 2006, 22:48

another plug for oxpho blue here. I have tried several types of cold blue and have found none of them to be what I would call really great but oxpho is pretty good for touch up and small parts. I have heard some good things about "blue wonder" anybody here tried that?

Sgt Rock · January 26, 2006, 22:02

When I use Oxpho Blue I don't just wipe it on and wait. I keep applying it , rubbing back and forth for about 10 minutes or until I get the desired results. HTH.

Don Williams · January 27, 2006, 00:24

Oxpho Blue works. Follow the instructions. Be sure to put the amount you.re gonna use in a seperate container son you don't contaminate the main bottle.

wandering_ronin · January 27, 2006, 08:25

Another vote for the Oxpho Blue. I, too, tried the Birchwood Casey stuff...once. I won't waste my time again with it.

**idsubgun** · January 27, 2006, 12:20

ahem......Oxpho-Blue

BRM308 · January 27, 2006, 12:38

Oxpho-Blue as well. As somebody else said, it helps to heat the parts first then aply, then rub with fine steel wool.
If you need a lot of solution then buy "Precision" brand black oxide solution. It is the same stuff only more of it more concentrated and more expensive.

**Mebsuta** · February 12, 2006, 16:39

You can get the BC Perma Blue to work, but you have to be meticulous about surface preparation in a way you do not with the Oxpho Blue. Use heat and card the hell out of it as suggested by BRM308. Here is a gas tube nut in the white. I shoeshined it down with descending grits of sandpaper to remove the gouges on it.

Here it is after cold blue with BC Perma Blue. Agree that Oxpho Blue is the best, but I ran out and Perma Blue is there at Walmart. I might try the more concentrated Super Blue some time. If you use Dicropan T-4 and really work at it, you can almost get it to look like hot water rust blue.

Temp · February 12, 2006, 16:45

I've been working with cold blue and have gotten some very good results by placing the part under cold running water after the blue was applied, then after drying, gently buffing it with a piece of 0000 steel wool soaked in light oil. (that 3 in 1 stuff)

**Mebsuta** · March 12, 2006, 14:07

Just tried some 44/40 on a Mauser barrel. It's OK. It was streaky until I used the Temp method and carded with oil and steel wool. I goes on actually kind of blue at first, but after you card you get grey, which is fine. I now think oxpho blue is about the only one worth messing with. Guess I will just have to haul off and order some.

ftierson · March 12, 2006, 14:25

Mebsuta,

I use both Oxpho-Blue and Dicropan T and like both very much.

At the shop, we mostly use the Brownell's Dicropan T, which works extremely well. The Dicropan is available as a liquid and as a cream. Both work well.

The Dicropan requires that the part-to-be-blued is degreased well before being blued. The Oxpho-Blue can be used even when the part is still somewhat oily...

If a larger area is being cold-blued with either Dicropan-T or Oxpho-Blue, I usually use a couple of different applications, lightly using some 0000 steel wool...

My experience is that the 44/40 (now produced and sold for/by Brownell's, too) works pretty well for very small spots (much better than the BC stuff), but not as good as either of the other Brownell's products. I could have been a little clearer about that in my original post. Sorry...

Forrest

**Mebsuta** · March 12, 2006, 14:50

No worries Forrest, I like to try everything. There was one last bottle at neighborhood place, so I thought I would try it before ordering up more Oxpho. The BC can go on real nice but fades and not to durable.

shootist87122 · March 12, 2006, 15:30

I've never used cold blue except as a touch up and the Oxpho Blue worked "OK" for that. However, it failed to darken a front sight satisfactorily on a 1911 that I had to file. It also wore off easily.

When I ran out of the Oxpho recently I bought the Brownells 44/40 and used it on that same front sight and it turned it jet black with one application. I've not had occasion to use it on anything else.

ftierson · March 12, 2006, 15:51

I guess that the real moral of the story is to have a couple of the better cold blues available to try, and that the determination of which works better on a specific part may vary with the part...

Right now, I have all three (Dicropan, Oxpho-Blue and 44/40) close at hand...

I should be able to find one that will work well for whatever I'm trying to blue...

So far, that's been the case...

The first one that I try, however, is the Dicropan... Usually, I have to look no farther...

Forrest

**Mebsuta** · March 12, 2006, 20:43

Couple of observations after using 44/40 to blue a barrel:

1. When you wipe it off after initial application, a lot is going to come off. That's OK. There will still be acceptable color after this.

2. I think this is one of those cold blues you need to neutralize. Came home to find a little after-rust on it, even after carding with oil yesterday. Did not have any baking soda around the house, so I hit it with Simple Green, which is alkaline.

I think it just takes a different technique than some of the others. You get spoiled by Oxpho because it is easy to use.

paul f · March 13, 2006, 20:44

While I'm not a big fan of perma blue liquid, I,ve been using Birchwood Casey perma blue paste with really nice results on my latest build. I just did a lower and all pins and levers. The lower turned out a nice dense matte black. I am really pleased with this product. Follow instructions and as has already been mentioned surface prep and cleanliness are key to ANY finishing job. I applied the paste five times with cleaning and 0000 steel wool between applications. Parts like the receiver cover that were turning out a bit shiny got a light sanding with 320 grit sandpaper to tone it down. I build longrifles as well and while I'm not an expert have some experience with metal prep and finishing. There are some good products out there for home use, some are better than others but none of them work better than the person using them.

Paul F

gunnut1 · March 13, 2006, 20:50

The one thing I have noticed about Oxpho blue is this, if the part is lightly rusted or has a patina on it, the bluing takes longer to work. If the part is bare metal it will take right away. I guess this should not come a a surprise to me but it does. AND if the metal is hard it will not work as well.

**idsubgun** · March 13, 2006, 21:15

If it's just a part, not the receiver/barrel/etc., I've found that if you submerse the part in Oxpho-Blue for 5-15 minutes, it usually blues up nicely. Depending on size of part, hardness of the part or actual compound of steel, not all parts blue at the same rate. Submerse the part and watch it. Pull it out every minute or two, and check the darkness.

Then rinse and use light oil/0000 steel wool like Temp says.

Use the light oil and 0000 steel on sone of those surplus pistols that have been coming over here. Such as the Makoravs. It'll shine that matte blue up nicely!

January 22, 2006, 15:31	#1
FC-BEAVERS Registered FALaholic #: 16801 Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: TEXAS, USA Posts: 250	BEST COLD BLUE AVAILABLE???? Ok im tired of trying the BirchwoodCasey Cold blue because in my opinion IT DOES NOT WORK. I have followed their instructions exactly and it turns out like crap. At first i thought it was me but then a buddy of mine tired the same thing and had the same outcome. What type of cold blue do yall recomend. Or what is the best one. __________________ All laws which are repugnant to the Constitution are null and void. — Marbury v. Madison, 5 U.S. (2 Cranch) 137 (1803)

January 22, 2006, 16:19	#3
gunnut1 Moderator Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 1877 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: The great Republic of Texas USA!!!!! Posts: 10,429	Brownell's OXYPHO Blue is great stuff. I will work over light rust but it works the best if the metal is bare. And it is tough. __________________ Texas, it's a state of mind!!!! The human race is not the pinnacle of evolution. We are but one evolutionary out come.

January 22, 2006, 17:37	#5
Lon Moer Registered FALaholic #: 12098 Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: CA Posts: 3,521	Brownell's Oxpho Blue paste __________________ I've known daredevils and I ain't got nothing against them.....its just they're all dead.

January 22, 2006, 19:10	#7
Regal Beagal Registered FALaholic #: 91 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Carolina-the beach Posts: 1,008	Once Again... Brownell's Oxpho Blue. __________________ When the government fears the people there is Liberty. When the people fear the government there is Tyranny- Thomas Jefferson

January 27, 2006, 00:24	#10
Don Williams Registered FALaholic #: 2580 Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Green River Wy USA Posts: 351	Oxpho Blue works. Follow the instructions. Be sure to put the amount you.re gonna use in a seperate container son you don't contaminate the main bottle. __________________ avoid the chinese curse and be careful what you wish for.

January 22, 2006, 15:52	#2
ftierson Registered FALaholic #: 13827 Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 11,046	Birchwood Casey makes a lot of great products. Their Synthetic Gun Oil and Sheath immediately come to mind, and I use both of them a lot. As you state, their Gun Blue has to be the worst crap ever invented for blueing. My experience with it mirrors yours. Essentially, it never works... The best cold blueing products include the following three, all available from Brownells: Dicropan T Oxpho-Blue Formula 44/40 Get any of these and you should be pretty happy with the results... Keep in mind that all cold blues are essentially designed for touch-up use, and not for the blueing of entire firearms. Forrest

January 22, 2006, 17:11	#4
CZ-75a Registered FALaholic #: 15838 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Soon to be negro-free Posts: 1,952	Buy the Oxpho paste for touch-up and the liquid to soak small parts in.

January 22, 2006, 19:10	#6
Valkyrie0002 Registered FALaholic #: 11159 Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Fredericksburg, Va Posts: 586	I have had great results with Oxpho-blu on many rifles. I use it on my G1s and Milsurps. Only had a couple spots where it would not blue well. Have heard it helps to heat the metal a little. After applying, rub with steel wool, reapply and rub some more.

January 22, 2006, 22:48	#8
ThePreacher Registered Contributor FALaholic #: 9311 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 359	another plug for oxpho blue here. I have tried several types of cold blue and have found none of them to be what I would call really great but oxpho is pretty good for touch up and small parts. I have heard some good things about "blue wonder" anybody here tried that?

January 26, 2006, 22:02	#9
Sgt Rock Registered FALaholic #: 564 Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 965	When I use Oxpho Blue I don't just wipe it on and wait. I keep applying it , rubbing back and forth for about 10 minutes or until I get the desired results. HTH.

January 27, 2006, 08:25	#11
wandering_ronin Registered FALaholic #: 10438 Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 267	Another vote for the Oxpho Blue. I, too, tried the Birchwood Casey stuff...once. I won't waste my time again with it.

January 27, 2006, 12:20	#12
idsubgun "Comfortably Numb" Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 3100 Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Idaho Posts: 9,191	ahem......Oxpho-Blue

January 27, 2006, 12:38	#13
BRM308 Registered FALaholic #: 32 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Batavia,IL. USA Posts: 786	Oxpho-Blue as well. As somebody else said, it helps to heat the parts first then aply, then rub with fine steel wool. If you need a lot of solution then buy "Precision" brand black oxide solution. It is the same stuff only more of it more concentrated and more expensive. __________________ The Leftist impulse at its heart is the longing to be rid of the burden of freedom. “Don’t Shoot!” he whimpered. “I’m Che! I’m worth more to you alive than dead!”

February 12, 2006, 16:39	#14
Mebsuta Khemi, Stygia Contributor FALaholic #: 4143 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Khemi, Stygia Posts: 6,298	You can get the BC Perma Blue to work, but you have to be meticulous about surface preparation in a way you do not with the Oxpho Blue. Use heat and card the hell out of it as suggested by BRM308. Here is a gas tube nut in the white. I shoeshined it down with descending grits of sandpaper to remove the gouges on it. Here it is after cold blue with BC Perma Blue. Agree that Oxpho Blue is the best, but I ran out and Perma Blue is there at Walmart. I might try the more concentrated Super Blue some time. If you use Dicropan T-4 and really work at it, you can almost get it to look like hot water rust blue. Last edited by Mebsuta; February 12, 2006 at 17:07.

February 12, 2006, 16:45	#15
Temp Registered FALaholic #: 10384 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: right of center Posts: 4,212	I've been working with cold blue and have gotten some very good results by placing the part under cold running water after the blue was applied, then after drying, gently buffing it with a piece of 0000 steel wool soaked in light oil. (that 3 in 1 stuff) __________________ Among the worst aspects of the collapse of traditional conservatism is that my children will grow up in a world in which vulgar and belligerent nationalism will be presented to them as the alternative to leftism.

March 12, 2006, 14:07	#16
Mebsuta Khemi, Stygia Contributor FALaholic #: 4143 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Khemi, Stygia Posts: 6,298	Just tried some 44/40 on a Mauser barrel. It's OK. It was streaky until I used the Temp method and carded with oil and steel wool. I goes on actually kind of blue at first, but after you card you get grey, which is fine. I now think oxpho blue is about the only one worth messing with. Guess I will just have to haul off and order some.

March 12, 2006, 14:25	#17
ftierson Registered FALaholic #: 13827 Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 11,046	Mebsuta, I use both Oxpho-Blue and Dicropan T and like both very much. At the shop, we mostly use the Brownell's Dicropan T, which works extremely well. The Dicropan is available as a liquid and as a cream. Both work well. The Dicropan requires that the part-to-be-blued is degreased well before being blued. The Oxpho-Blue can be used even when the part is still somewhat oily... If a larger area is being cold-blued with either Dicropan-T or Oxpho-Blue, I usually use a couple of different applications, lightly using some 0000 steel wool... My experience is that the 44/40 (now produced and sold for/by Brownell's, too) works pretty well for very small spots (much better than the BC stuff), but not as good as either of the other Brownell's products. I could have been a little clearer about that in my original post. Sorry... Forrest

March 12, 2006, 14:50	#18
Mebsuta Khemi, Stygia Contributor FALaholic #: 4143 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Khemi, Stygia Posts: 6,298	No worries Forrest, I like to try everything. There was one last bottle at neighborhood place, so I thought I would try it before ordering up more Oxpho. The BC can go on real nice but fades and not to durable.

March 12, 2006, 15:30	#19
shootist87122 Registered FALaholic #: 7202 Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NM Posts: 5,126	I've never used cold blue except as a touch up and the Oxpho Blue worked "OK" for that. However, it failed to darken a front sight satisfactorily on a 1911 that I had to file. It also wore off easily. When I ran out of the Oxpho recently I bought the Brownells 44/40 and used it on that same front sight and it turned it jet black with one application. I've not had occasion to use it on anything else. __________________ "So in the Libyan Fable it is told, That once an eagle, stricken with a dart, said, when he saw the fashion of the shaft, it is by our own feathers, not others hands, are we now smitten." -Aeschylus

March 12, 2006, 15:51	#20
ftierson Registered FALaholic #: 13827 Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 11,046	I guess that the real moral of the story is to have a couple of the better cold blues available to try, and that the determination of which works better on a specific part may vary with the part... Right now, I have all three (Dicropan, Oxpho-Blue and 44/40) close at hand... I should be able to find one that will work well for whatever I'm trying to blue... So far, that's been the case... The first one that I try, however, is the Dicropan... Usually, I have to look no farther... Forrest

March 12, 2006, 20:43	#21
Mebsuta Khemi, Stygia Contributor FALaholic #: 4143 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Khemi, Stygia Posts: 6,298	Couple of observations after using 44/40 to blue a barrel: 1. When you wipe it off after initial application, a lot is going to come off. That's OK. There will still be acceptable color after this. 2. I think this is one of those cold blues you need to neutralize. Came home to find a little after-rust on it, even after carding with oil yesterday. Did not have any baking soda around the house, so I hit it with Simple Green, which is alkaline. I think it just takes a different technique than some of the others. You get spoiled by Oxpho because it is easy to use.

March 13, 2006, 20:44	#22
paul f Registered FALaholic #: 2797 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: The other side of the middle of nowhere, West Virginia Posts: 53	While I'm not a big fan of perma blue liquid, I,ve been using Birchwood Casey perma blue paste with really nice results on my latest build. I just did a lower and all pins and levers. The lower turned out a nice dense matte black. I am really pleased with this product. Follow instructions and as has already been mentioned surface prep and cleanliness are key to ANY finishing job. I applied the paste five times with cleaning and 0000 steel wool between applications. Parts like the receiver cover that were turning out a bit shiny got a light sanding with 320 grit sandpaper to tone it down. I build longrifles as well and while I'm not an expert have some experience with metal prep and finishing. There are some good products out there for home use, some are better than others but none of them work better than the person using them. Paul F

March 13, 2006, 20:50	#23
gunnut1 Moderator Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 1877 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: The great Republic of Texas USA!!!!! Posts: 10,429	The one thing I have noticed about Oxpho blue is this, if the part is lightly rusted or has a patina on it, the bluing takes longer to work. If the part is bare metal it will take right away. I guess this should not come a a surprise to me but it does. AND if the metal is hard it will not work as well. __________________ Texas, it's a state of mind!!!! The human race is not the pinnacle of evolution. We are but one evolutionary out come.

March 13, 2006, 21:15	#24
idsubgun "Comfortably Numb" Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 3100 Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Idaho Posts: 9,191	If it's just a part, not the receiver/barrel/etc., I've found that if you submerse the part in Oxpho-Blue for 5-15 minutes, it usually blues up nicely. Depending on size of part, hardness of the part or actual compound of steel, not all parts blue at the same rate. Submerse the part and watch it. Pull it out every minute or two, and check the darkness. Then rinse and use light oil/0000 steel wool like Temp says. Use the light oil and 0000 steel on sone of those surplus pistols that have been coming over here. Such as the Makoravs. It'll shine that matte blue up nicely! __________________ Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you wish for peace, prepare for war"

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode